Day 21 Started a defoliation process, will continue through this week, have noticed the pH drops fast with defoliation. New reservoir; 100 litres RO 40.8 grams Calcium Nitrate 33 grams Jack’s 41.2 grams magnesium sulphate 4 grams trace elements 4 grams potassium nitrate 100mL headmaster 50mL mighty flower enhancer 300mL H202 100mL Fulvic 50mL Humic 100mL Purpinator 100mL Sweet Citrus Day 22 Added 18 litres of RO Added 20 grams of potassium nitrate Day 24 Added 40 litres of RO pH 6.3 1250 ppm Day 25 Added 18 grams of Calcium Nitrate Last couple days the leaves have really started to show signs of my typical calcium & magnesium deficiency. ...I’m having feelings of wanting to drain and flush. 1300 PPM. pH 6.2 ...couldn’t help myself, drained Rez, filled with RO. Added 125mL FloraKleen. Calibrated pH probe. Adjusted pH to 6.0 Running at 400 PPM. ...ran 2 hours, drained, filled 100L RO 30 grams Calcium Nitrate 20 grams Jacks 20 grams Magnesium Sulphate 300mL H2O2 50 mL Headmasta 50 fulvic 10 humic PPM 640 pH 6.0 Day 26 Added 10 litres RO 10 grams of calcium nitrate 6 grams of jacks 4.5 grams magnesium sulphate Adjusted pH to 6.0 PPM 720 Day 27 Added 20 litres of RO 6.1 grams of Calcium Nitrate 4.0 grams Jacks Hydro 2.1 grams of Magnesium Sulphate 50 mL Sweet Citrus 50 mL Regen-a-root 10mL flower enhancer pH 6.2 PPM 680

COMMENTED BY TrueNorth TrueNorth 4 days ago -Strain: Orange Sherbet 🍊 - Fast Buds -Tent: 5x5 Gorilla Grow Tent -Lights: Budget LED Grow Lights 2 x 250 Watt LED Full Spec/Red Spec mixed boards -Light Cycle: 18/6 -Soil: Fox Farm -Air Circulation: AC Infinity Cloudline T6 Inline Duct Fan March 31, 2020 - Here we are growmies! Week 3 already, this morning (9am) i put her into this 5G grow bag, here she will flourish to be the beast i am hoping the PURPLE LEMONADE was in the same bag!!! Started feeding today nice and light! Love you guys!

SUMMARY: - I killed my first to tap-root seeds, I waited for them to grow "by the book" 0.5cm and I should have just planted, I saw them get worse and said "I must of messed up with something, lets wait another night until they bounce back" and instead they died. The next germination was super easy but my lights were too high, and the humidity was too low. All the fixes were done for the next weeks. Nov. 3 21:30 - dropped seeds into water 14:30 - get seeds into paper towel nov. 4 1:00 - seeds moved to damp paper towel nov. 5 18:00 - both seeds crack tap root emerging nov. 6 7:45 - both seeds tap root growing very long and thin, - third seed still not cracked 8:30 - both seeds placed into soil and watered lightly - placed into grow tent and LEDs turned on - 24H for the first day - 18/6 for the rest nov. 8 6:45 - first seedling spouted cotyledons leaves 13:00 - seedling (cotyledons leaves) looks droopy 19:00 - light moved down to 30” 23:00 - second seedling has reach the surface and started to sprout cotyledons - first seedling still getting taller - third seed still not cracked nov. 9 15:00 - both seedlings given 50ml of water - watered around the outside of pot - pH of water = 7.81 - pH of runoff = 6.31 nov. 10 - second seedling has created serrated second set of leaves and stretched up to same height, but much smaller than first seedling. Specifications:😎 Seeds: - 2x White Widow feminized seeds from Crop King Seed Tent: - 4x4x6 Mammoth Grow tent LED: - 2x Spider Farmer SF1000 LED (default 100 watt draw for seedling but will be bumped up to 125 Watt for flowering if not sooner) Pots: - 2x 0.5 L starter pots - 2x 5 gal smart pots after transplant Soil: - Pro-mix containing mycorrhizae and perlite, used for starter pots and mixed at roughly 1:3 ratio with Ocean Forest - Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil, used in the 5 gallon pots and mixed with roughly 3:1 ratio with pro-mix - note: pro mix was mixed thoroughly with ocean forest in the 5 gal pot, then pro-mix was used on the top layer, in and around where the transplant will be to help the early veg stage avoid getting too "hot" via nutrients. Nutrients: - Fox Farm Big Bloom - Fox Farm Big Grow - Fox Farm Tiger Bloom Inline Fans: - AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6 6" (exhaust) - AC infinity CLOUDLINE S6 6" (active intake) - AC infinity 6" ducting Oscillating fans: - 2x Wind Devil 6" fans Carbon Filter: - 2x iPower Carbon Filter on both inline fans - note: carbon filter on intake fan as basement had mold issues in furnace room far removed but same floor, some mold issue in other room, cat litter in basement, thus, avoiding all risks and sleeping sound at night :) all mold was killed, scrubbed, cleaned, sprayed, painted, and sprayed again before setting up. Humidifier: - TaoTronics Cool Mist Humidifier Timers: - 2x Kuman 15A/1800W 24-Hour Digital Timer Overall: Good start to the grow, germinated 2/3 seeds, both growing and healthy. Both seedlings have developed their cotyledons and although they initially were quite droopy, they often bounce back to a decent upright/natural position. Third seed is undergoing "emergency germination" for the next 2 days as it experienced identical conditions to the other healthy seeds yet failed to germinate, likely due to its unviable nature. Waiting for extension cords to lower the lights further and a humidifier to hold rH steady in the next day or so. The seedlings appear to be reaching up for the light, stretching, but it appears to be within the acceptable range as they are upright and sturdy. The seedlings often get a little droopy, it is likely that this and even the stretching can be blamed on low humidity, temperature swings between low 60's up to 81 F. Nov. 2 - I killed 2 germinated seeds by waiting for tap root to grow to 0.5cm. - note: tap root looked great but was quite short so I waited another day for it to grow as instructed, the next day it looked like it had suffered, I assumed it was something I did like too damp, or too dry, but it really just needed to be planted before tap root grew to 0.5cm. So i waited another day to see the bounce back this time carefully ensuring right amount of dampness but when i looked it was clearly dead. RIP 😭 Nov. 3 21:30 - dropped seeds into water 14:30 - get seeds into paper towel nov. 4 1:00 - seeds moved to damp paper towel nov. 5 18:00 - both seeds crack tap root emerging nov. 6 7:45 - both seeds tap root growing very long and thin, - third seed still not cracked 8:30 - both seeds placed into soil and watered lightly - placed into grow tent and LEDs turned on - 24H for the first day - 18/6 for the rest nov. 8 6:45 - first seedling spouted cotyledons leaves 13:00 - seedling (cotyledons leaves) looks droopy 19:00 - light moved down to 30” 23:00 - second seedling has reach the surface and started to sprout cotyledons - first seedling still getting taller - third seed still not cracked nov. 9 15:00 - both seedlings given 50ml of water - watered around the outside of pot - pH of water = 7.81 - pH of runoff = 6.31 nov. 10 - second seedling has created serrated second set of leaves and stretched up to same height, but much smaller than first seedling. Summary of week: - A rocky but good start has resulted in 2 healthy seedlings with a decent set of serrated leaves. - MY growing pains and on the fly adjusting of grow tent climate likely resulted in a little bit of a tough week for the seedlings. LED hanging too high likely off the start (started at 60" and got as low as 30"), low rH (going down to as low as 40% and never really getting <60%), and poor temperature fluctuations (going as low as 61F early in the morning when the lights go off for 8H and as high as 81F when the lights are on for some time). - Luckily these factors did not do much damage but in all likelihood just resulted in a slower growth rate. - After initially planted into damp soil, I only watered once, with only 50ml for each plant and mostly watered around the edges of the pot.

Thursday 4/7/19 - day 8 of flower Sigh , it’s deleted my nutrient list Saturday 6/7/19 - changed solution Tuesday- added more pics Weds - removed more shit from the bottom and middle @ added a video i Check ph and EC daily and top up as necessary :)

Dec 28 - Both plants are close to harvest. Had 5.5. hours of darkness after 24 hr period to prevent budrot developing. Also moved plants inside tent moreso, and closer to fans. Dec 28 - Watered healthy plant today at 2PM - I'll chop unhealthy plant tomorrow, so didn't water, instead inspected trichomes. Dec 28 - Unhealthy Plant is showing amber trichomes, but also clear - Unsure if I should chop tomorrow or not. Dec 29 - DAY 73 - CHOPPED - Trimmed larger fan leaves (accidentally trimmed a sugar leaf or two) and harvested to dry whole, upside down. I'm hoping for a half ounce per plant. Dec 19 - 11.50PM Trichome Calyx' were observed, there are new calyx' appearing. Calyx' are swelling. Dec 30 - Plant developing more senescence and calyx are swelling. Dec 30 - Trichomes are still clear, but I'm seeing some PM develop so I think I'll chop tomorrow morning. Dec 31 - Nice Senescence occurring, Happy to have left it this last day. Accidentally left temps up to 78F for a half hour. Dec 31 - Decided to push another week as per feedback from GD member. When watering I noticed she was perky after 3 days w. no water. Interesting and likely the frequency I'll continue watering at. Dec 31 - Watered at 9PM. Jan 1 - Removed small fan leaf with signs of PM at the base. This defoliation should help with airflow. Checked newly formed calyx' and they're clear enough not to document. Jan 2 - Buds are developing nicely, calyxes are noticably swelling nicely too. I see some green pistils appearing in the lowest buds. Clear Trichomes. Jan 3 - Watered at 8AM. Woke up to 90F temp. Unfortunately they'd been cooking for about an hour. Jan 3 - DRYING UPDATE - I'm seeing fluctuations in the drying room between RH 49% and 70%. As of 3.10PM @ 61RH after adding jars of water. I want to maintain this RH. Jan 3 - Senesence looking good, calyx' are continuing to swell. Will inspect trichomes tomorrow at latest.

F29, se comenzó con el riego de engorde, con una EC 2.6~2.8 y pH 6.4, se han quitado un par de hojas bloqueando sitios de cogollos, los cogollos están muy resinosos, súper frosty, el olor está súper fuerte también.

35 dias de actividad en el indoor, foto periodo de 20 horas de luz y 4 de oscuridad

Same plant but one I LST the other just let grow , small and fat one almost finish while the other got at least 2 more months same age plant but I think my lst made the short one into flower early because not only I Lst but in veg a branch broke but stayed alive and grew , fat ass nugs one more week for the short guy grape cookies auto

We’re in the seventh week of flowering, and the plant is looking absolutely stunning! It’s starting to show beautiful purple colors in many places, all the way through the buds. The colors are really popping, and it’s giving the plant such a unique look. On top of that, it’s smelling incredibly sweet—strong and fragrant every time I open the tent! 🍬🌿 Most of the trichomes are now a milky white, which is exactly where I hoped they’d be at this point. I’m sticking to the BioBizz week 7 bloom schedule, knowing it’s almost time for the flush. 🌱💧 Everything is going so well, and I’m beyond excited to see how it turns out in the final stages. Just one more week before the flush, and then we’re almost there! 😁✨

Oct 17: close to ready but we’re running out of nice weather in two days. It’s been an absolutely great run of cannabis weather since July but first snow is forecast for 7 days from now, and then it’s below zero all day and there’s no hope at that point. Oct 23: weather has still been good enough to keep going but I’ll take her down tomorrow. She’s the last plant in the grow area and potentially the biggest overall but I don’t think she’ll win that contest. Oct 24: took it all 2,800 g wet. In keeping with Canadian outdoor tradition, there was a bit of snow falling as the plant was being chopped. She would have better buds with stronger sunlight but it’s all for hash and I’m happy with the total weight (of course).

These ladies continue to develop very nicely and lucky stopped stretching pretty much in the beginning of this week and the buds are forming super nicely. Since I also don’t observe a stretch in flower anymore, I decided to feed pk13/14 for the next week. It continues to surprise me how hungry these autos are, much hungrier than my glookies fro example. Unfortunately I realized that the plant on the very right of the box produces much smaller buds than the other two. I am pinning that on the fan right above her, so have pointed it slightly higher, but I guess the damage is done:(.

Flush time for divine storm and mandarin dreams. These ladies are frosty and sticky AF! Just insane how sticky they are and the frost is like light snow, my camera just doesn't do it justice. The Mars-Hydro TSW2000 has blown me away over the course of this grow. It's definitely a high quality light and has delivered impressive results so far. Thanks for stopping by growfessors! 👽🌳💚

Hi, I started my first cultivation with this fabulous Gorilla Glue Auto variety. I transplanted the sprout in subtrate I prepared by using it: 70% BioBizz Light mix 20% earthworm humus 5% coconut fiber 5% perlite 30g Nutrihemp 125g Gurumix At the time of transplanting I then added 1g of Mycor mix to the bottom of the hole. Now the seedling has 7 days of life I hope it can grow healthy and strong and give us an excellent harvest 😉

May 16th - Day 86 - All good here, as you can see the babies are prospering. I'm quite confused tho when looking to other diaries and seeing that I'm like three or four weeks behind.. Might be because of my irrigation system but still doing good.

Increíble resultado con esta genética de Anesia Seeds. La combinación del FC6500 de Mars Hydro con los nutrientes XpertNutrients ha dado un resultado impresionante. El aroma es una mezcla dulce y afrutada con notas terrosas, y los cogollos están bien compactos. En cuanto al efecto, es potente y relajante, ideal para las noches

Day 47 - I topped, defoliated and flushed with plain ph’d water 10 days before switch to 12/12 These led lights keep the plants really short with a lot of middle bushy growth have already taken 2 bags full of leaves and all look healthy still🤞👍 Day 48 - Looking good day after topping and defoliation :) good sign will update end of week 8 flip to 12/12

Beautiful purple buds there are only 2 out of 5 phenos of bslck cherry punch 🍒 👊 that have purple flowers. The aroma just like her sisters is ver very sweet for real. Very nice fruity sroma, it gives you very good vibes man. I'm in love with this strain, basically because the 5 bslck cherry punch have the exact same aroma, and that's awesome because obviously these are not clones as you can see,all of them started from seed, and I think I've found a very good híbrid to my favorite list. She's been grown 100% organically without any sinthetic nutrients, no bottle nutrients. Just 100% organic living soil with very rich in beneficial bacteria and fungus thanks to the use of Florganics FLO, Silicium flash by biotabs that contains bug shit very rich in life. And also bat guano and seaweed powder by guanokalong. Peace everybody! 💚✌️❤️👨‍🌾

This 5 plants are absolutely gorgeous, they're supper similar to each to each other beautiful leafs and structure, looks like this lady is gonna provide us with beautiful citrussy buds!! Stay tuned everybody! Great autoflowering strain by SPLIFF SEEDS!

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.