Week 3 and a repot is done and now in day 3. Finally it’s settling down after the repot, which was not pretty at all😂 Hope to get some massive plants this run 🌱 ________________________________________________________________________________________ Light from @MedicGrowLED 😎 NEO 780 LED🔥 780 Watt⚡️💥 PPF of 2184 μmol/s & 2.8 μmol/J🔥 Full Spectrum V1/F1 🌈 WiFi smart connection & Smart Aura Control 😱

Day 14-21 (May 14th - May 21st) (Day 14) Transplant went well. I’ll wait a few days for recovery then start to harden them off. They’ve been acclimated to the sun pretty well so far from the window but the cold night temps will be stressful. (Day 16) It’s going to be nice out tonight so I’m going to leave the girls outside. (Day 19) I’ve been leaving the plants out all day for the last 3 days and they’re looking great. Better than my tomatoes anyway. Stems look like they’re thickening up too. I’m going to start the autoflowers for this season. I’m soaking them in shot glasses this time. I’m sick of direct sowing and losing plants. I find the soak + paper towel method is by far the most efficient and quick too. I don’t think I’ve ever had a seed not germinate using that method. Direct sowing seems to kill about 1 in 8 of my seedlings. So I’m going to wait until the tap root is about an inch long and will bury them flat, a half inch deep directly into my raised beds/containers. I will keep them moist by hand once or twice a day until they’re looking established. (Day 20) Just had a big rain storm and I let them take it on the chin until it got worse. All seem fine and better for it. (Day 21) All auto flower seeds are just barely poking out. Tomorrow or the next day I’m going to sow all of the grapefruits and g33’s directly into the raised bed. I’m worried that the soil mix in the beds is too strong for such a young plant and I don’t want to risk killing all of them at once. Even promix alone can be hot for seedlings. Pests and cold weather are another two things to worry about outside too. The beds were amended with quarter strength feedings of 4-4-4 Gaia Green all purpose, 3-2-4 insect frass, 1-0-3 kelp meal, 3-0-3 alfalfa meal, glacial rock dust, rock dust blend and oyster shell flour. I mix the amendments into the compost and then mix the compost with the promix directly in the raised bed by hand. I’m just going to dig out a hole in the bed and fill it with pure promix so it doesn’t get any early nute burn. The dr seedsman and exodus cheese are being directly sowed into 3 gallon fabric pots with a pure promix divot in the middle. A friend of mine just gifted me some Thugpug genetics ‘Meatbreath’ bagseed from an amazing cut. This is definitely worth growing this summer so I’m gonna pop them and get them into solo cups ASAP.

Remember that, however you are played, or by whom, your soul is in your keeping alone. Even though those who presume to play you be kings or men of power, when you stand before God, you cannot say, 'But I was told by others to do thus,' or that virtue was not convenient at the time. This will not suffice. Remember that. Day:18 84°F and 65% RH (VPD) for the vegetative stage. Approximately 1.15kPa(assuming leaf temperature is about 2°F cooler than the air), which falls right into the ideal vegetative sweet spot (0.8kPa to 1.2kPa). At 1.15kPa, plants can draw water and nutrients efficiently without risking stress or wilting. It keeps the leaf pores (stomata) open, allowing for ideal carbon dioxide intake and maximizing vegetative growth. VPD is determined by the leaf's temperature, not just the ambient air. Because leaves usually run 1° to 3°F cooler than room air under bright grow lights, my actual VPD will be slightly lower, closer to the 1.0kPa mark. As she transitions from vegetative growth to flowering, one can gradually lower the humidity (to around 45–60%) and drop temperatures slightly to prevent disease from settling inside dense buds when they appear. Night:6 At 70°F and 60% relative humidity, Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) is 0.86 kPa. This is right on the cusp of whats optimal for the vegetative stage. During the nighttime, plants generally close their stomata and undergo cellular respiration rather than photosynthesis. Transpiration slows to a near stop, making VPD less critical at night than during the day. However, maintaining a nighttime VPD between 0.8 and 1.0 kPa is highly beneficial in that it ensures the air is dry enough to prevent powdery mildew or bud rot, but moist enough to keep the plant from undergoing unnecessary stress. This range keeps the environment comfortable for cellular processes and prevents large atmospheric swings. Keeping it all flowing. (Not pushing them yet, these are photoperiods) The optimal soil (root zone) temperature for cellular root respiration and nutrient uptake in cannabis is between 68F & 72F This narrow range balances biological energy production (cellular respiration) with the dissolved oxygen levels in the soil, maximizing plant growth and health. Warmer soils hold significantly less dissolved oxygen. When soil temperature exceeds 74F oxygen depletion occurs, inhibiting cellular respiration almost entirely, At 68-72F root cells generate optimal adenosine triphosphate (ATP) via respiration to power root-tip elongation and the active transport of water and nutrients. Too Hot (Above 78F) Root respiration increases, demanding more oxygen, while the water's oxygen-carrying capacity drops. This creates a prime environment for anaerobic pathogens and Pythium (root rot). Too Cold (Below 60F) Root metabolism and cellular respiration slow to a crawl. This severely impairs nutrient and water absorption, leading to yellowing, wilting, and phosphorus deficiencies. A lot depends on whether it's automatic or photoperiod; with photoperiod, there is not as much of a need to push "hard" as the real countdown only begins once the flower is initiated. Automatics, on the other hand, the chronological "clock" begins ticking the moment the seed germinates. It is of critical importance that the seedling growth gets off to the races, understanding that early growth is like compound interest, which will pay off come harvest. This reality is why getting autoflowers "off to the races" early on yields such exponential benefits. The "compound interest" is directly related to the surface area of the leaves. Larger, faster-growing seedlings process more light and build bigger root networks early on, which translates into an explosion of vertical and lateral growth during their short vegetative window. The margins for error are so thin with autoflowers; this early-stage momentum depends on several critical practices. Seedlings exposed to increased atmospheric CO2 levels early in life will develop at an increased rate. To effectively "extend" or optimize the capacity of Photosystem II (PSII) for increased photosynthetic efficiency. In standard oxygenic photosynthesis, Photosystem II (PSII) is naturally limited to the red-light spectrum, peaking at 680nm. Extending its light-harvesting capacity past 700nm into the far-red region requires bypassing the natural limits of standard chlorophyll a. Adding 730 nm (far-red) LEDs alongside standard red/blue lights has been shown to increase canopy photosynthesis by 20–30% in several crops by acting synergistically with shorter wavelengths. However, the limitation is that excessive, pure IR/Far-red light (without accompanying red light) can trigger the "shade avoidance response," causing plants to grow tall, weak, and spindly rather than robust. Utilizing infrared light (specifically the 700-750 nm far-red range) is a viable method to boost photosynthetic efficiency. It acts as a bridge to allow PSII to utilize a broader spectrum of light, breaking the traditional 700 nm barrier. UVR8-mediated signaling (often in conjunction with CRY proteins) triggers protective mechanisms that maintain the stability of the photosynthetic apparatus (including LHCII and reaction center proteins), thus ensuring that the efficiency of Photosystem II remains higher in UV-B-exposed plants compared to plants lacking this receptor. ΦPSII indictates the rate of electron transfer from water to plastoquinone, which drives the production of ATP and NADPH. There is a close link between ΦPSII and the true rate of CO2 fixation (Φ*co2). ETR stands for Electron Transport Rate. It measures the speed at which electrons are moved through the thylakoid membranes in a plant's chloroplasts during the light-dependent reactions of photosynthesis. Infrared light (particularly Near-Infrared or NIR) improves cellular energy by interacting directly with the electron transport chain (ETC) in mitochondria. This process boosts adenosine triphosphate production, which acts as a metabolic coefficient multiplier by accelerating enzyme activity dramatically. Extend then multiply. Far-Red photons interact with plant photoreceptors to accelerate the plant’s biological "clock" or trigger a shade-avoidance response. Autoflowers don't use the plant's biological clock, although the IR will initiate a shade avoidance and make them stretchy. You can just add equal measures of 660nm-680nm to negate the shade avoidance effect. Replacing nights' "darkness" with a combination of IR+ and 660nm. Because autoflowers don't require a dark period to flower, many growers just blast them with light. 18/6 24/0. However, this ignores the plant's metabolic rhythms, where daytime photosynthesis (light reactions) must be perfectly balanced with nighttime carbon fixation and assimilation (Calvin cycle) to avoid bottlenecking plant development. Cellular respiration is a 24/7 process, but it can only function while the plant has the free oxidative capacity to do so. A 100% photosynthetically active leaf cannot perform cellular respiration. The viral trend of defoliation of every leaf that isn't "getting enough light" is of great detriment overall, putting 100% of the cellular respiratory "workload" and responsibility on the 0/4/6 hours of darkness in sub-optimal conditions for enzymatic activity. Photosynthesis captures nearly 100% of the initial energy as carbon, while cellular respiration is the process that unlocks 90% of that captured energy into usable ATP so the plant can use it. Respiration is considered only roughly 30% to 40% efficient. It captures enough of the potential energy in glucose to synthesize around 30 to 38 ATP molecules per glucose molecule. The remaining 60% to 70% of the energy in the sugar is not captured in ATP; instead, it naturally escapes into the environment as heat, which helps regulate plant temperature. In plants, the primary enzymes of the Electron Transport Chain (ETC) and the ATP synthase complexes are typically adapted to function optimally in warmer temperatures (roughly 77°F to 95°F, depending on the specific plant strain). As temperatures rise within this physiological range, molecular collisions increase, speeding up respiration and ATP production. The cannabis plant has a branched respiratory pathway. During heat or cold stress, plants activate Alternative Oxidase (AOX). AOX burns sugars to dissipate energy as heat rather than coupling it to ATP production. This pathway actually functions optimally at elevated temperatures to help protect the cell from the damaging build-up of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) during heat stress. Enzyme activity generally scales with heat; there is a strict biological limit. If canopy temperatures in a grow room exceed 104°F, the enzymes and their supporting lipid membranes lose stability. Not saying you need to go crazy, just optimize nights the same as we optimize days. Phosphorus is the driving force behind early seedling development. It acts as the "energy hub" of the plant, directly driving cell division, robust root growth, and the creation of DNA. Without an adequate, easily accessible supply early on, the plant's overall growth potential and final yield can suffer permanently.

***Sponsored Grow*** = Medic || https://medicgrow.com || Grow = ***Sponsored Grow*** Ok, so first week of introducing the trip tonic line of feed into the medium and getting rid of the lotus crap, all of the newer growth is looking much better and some of the older growth is greening up but I don't expect a full fix for that. Gave some extra grow B in this week as it is higher in P and K and will act as a small PK boost for the stretch that is to come. Flipped my plants to flower as well so they are now on a 12/12 setting. Been using the medic grows mini sun 2's internal timer in the lights and they appear to be working just fine. They have pre-programmed setting of 12/16/18/20/22 "on" cycles, I thought it might have been hold the dial till the number you want came up but its not that fancy. As of now my photoperiod is from 1:30pm-1:30am but I might move this up to 12pm-12am so when I need to look at my plants I'm not waiting till the afternoon. Its really only an issue on the days I'm working. over all happy with the progress, Plants are drinking lots so I'm happy with that. Lights still running at 80% with V1 spectrum, will increase to 100% after stretch, don't need to growing into them and burning up. Till next week. ***Sponsored Grow*** Official Website: https://medicgrow.com/ + https://seedstockers.com/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/medicgrowled + https://www.facebook.com/SeedstockersBarcelona/ Twitter: https://twitter.com/medicgrow + https://twitter.com/seedstockersb Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/medicgrow420/ + https://www.instagram.com/seedstockers_seeds YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNmiY4F9z94u-8eGj7R1CSQ + https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4GiFYrIWeNtwtXjcivCmfw Growdiaries: https://growdiaries.com/grower/medicgrowled https://growdiaries.com/grow-lights/medic-grow + https://growdiaries.com/grower/seedstockersofficial https://growdiaries.com/seedbank/seedstockers

18 plants, 5 strains. Each plant has 3 main buds. By means of LST I tried to make them all the same height. Because the plants have now stopped growing, leading is no longer necessary. The plants are still attached to the plant sticks with tie strips to support the buds when they get heavy later on. Lots and large leaves, and therefore a weekly large defoliation every week. The trichomes begin to appear. . The Garlic Mist plants are not that beautiful and do not have a nice flower formation. Plenty of leaves; so a lot of defoliation work. GM # 1 - 92cm - lots of leaves, Even after defoliation, the buds are actually hidden behind the leaves. GM # 6 - 76cm - better leaf / bud ratio than # 1, but the buds don't get that fat either GM # 7 - 79cm - can be compared to # 6 but buds are better developed.

Will definitely update this as I finish trimming and curing!

Back to lst, my homemade scrog wasn’t too good so I decided to order a professional one for the next grow in the meanwhile I tide them back doing lst Also now they are really growing bigger and bigger Again not sure if I’m doing a good job only time will speak Got a microscope posted a pic and video of how my watermelon is doing with its flowers, the northern light is still not in full flower but its switching

Finally harvest week has arrived. The trichomes are mostly cloudy, There is even an amber one here and there, on some good old sugar leaves.

05/01/2025 Starting to stretch and put on buds. Looking health nothing else to do but let it grow

Last week of flower. Flushing plants this week with 150 to 200ml water ph 7.0 to 8.0each day Day 76 plants are pretty much ready for harvest. Buds have fattened up a abit. Day 77. Alot more orange hairs. Buds fattening up still by a little. Plenty of milky trichomes. Harder to spot orange trichomes but can see them.

14.12. F43 General Overview • Flower Day 43, deep into Week 6 of bloom. • Overall performance remains very strong — nutrition, structure, bud development, and system stability are all on point. • Despite ongoing airflow challenges, the grow will be taken all the way to harvest. ⸻ Airflow & Mildew Situation • A second fan positioned low in the tent was added to push air upward through the canopy. • While this improves circulation, it is still not enough to fully eliminate powdery mildew under these dense conditions. • At this stage, the situation is accepted as damage control rather than prevention. • Long-term, the lesson is clear: future runs will require even more internal circulation with multiple clip fans to constantly disrupt stagnant air pockets. • For now, infected leaves continue to be removed manually to keep the buds as clean as possible. ⸻ Plant & Bud Development • Buds are developing beautifully — dense, well-formed, and stacking nicely across all main colas. • Resin production is increasing, and the plants remain visually healthy despite the mildew pressure. • The canopy structure is strong and uniform, and the stretch has fully settled. ⸻ Feeding & System Performance • Feeding is now aligned with Week 6 of the BioTabs flowering schedule, followed exactly as recommended. • Nutrient uptake is flawless — no deficiencies, no excess, no imbalance. • BioTabs continues to impress with its consistency and simplicity, especially when paired with the AutoPot automatic irrigation system. • This combination has proven to be extremely reliable: steady moisture, steady nutrition, minimal intervention, maximum plant performance. But now i need a dehumidification device?! ⸻ Looking Ahead • The plan is to finish the run cleanly, maintain airflow as best as possible, and continue selective leaf removal. • Harvest decisions will depend on how the mildew situation develops in the coming weeks. • A full post-harvest deep clean is already planned to ensure the next cycle starts in a completely sterile environment. ⸻ 🌸 Flower Day 43 Summary: Week 6 of flower is running perfectly from a nutritional and system perspective. Buds look excellent, BioTabs + AutoPot perform flawlessly, and plant health remains strong. Powdery mildew is still present due to airflow limitations, but the grow will be carried through to harvest with careful management and aggressive sanitation afterward

Soon flipping to flower. Everything Is fine. As Always in living soil 🤠😎

Is drying atm 4 days now and is doing well Temp is higher than I'd like at 22c and too low at night 19 but it's still fairly wet. No bush whack smell. Nor do I think I'll get It RH needs to be lowered every 12 hrs or so for 30m She's hang drying behind my 100cm2 tent the grow room is blocked from sun light as best as I can. Cut nutrients the last 4 days and heavy water feeds with some enzymes and it riped up super nice. Got even more purple.

8/4 Already 4 days passed since the beginning of the week and the Runtz grow so much, she's becoming really tall as you can see, the top bud it's increasing yield and growing new pistils every day, the lower branches looks a bit late flowering, from this week I'm gonna add also extra 200w led and some extra nut

~~~~04.20.23~~~~ Day 51 - Above Ground - Target 65 Days 📝Saturday 06.10.23 - As this week comes to an end, I am seeing signs that the plants need a bit of calcium, so today was a topdressing day with a 70/30 blend of Bloom to Grow, watered in with H20 PG to 6.2 with CalMag at 5ML per Gallon of H20. Look at those Frosty Buds! 📝Thursday 06.08.23 - Watering with H20 PH @ 5.8/6.5 the buds on these girls are just getting crazy fat!, the new light setting is doing very well, and the plants are praying hard, and the Medic Grow Smart 8 Flowering Setting 1. ~~~~~~~~~~~ 📝@fastbuds_official 📝Soil - ProMix HP 📝Medic Grow Smart 8 LED / Light Settings: 40% - V1 📝@medicgrow420 📝@gaiagreenorganics ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 📝Cinderella Auto - grows dark-green thick buds with elongated large-sized calyxes and lots and lots of long amber hairs all over them.

Starting week 5 now. Still just watering with rain water. Girls still doing exceptionally well. Still no deficiencies and 2 of outer plants now trying to out grow center plant. Trichromes starting to form. Good leaf colors and room really starting to fill up with bud sites.

13/05 Ca devient serré la dedans. 😅 14/05 Une bête de rêve.😍 je n'ose pas coupé trop de petites branches. c'est que j'aimerais battre mon record de 118g, avec cette même variété d'ailleurs. 😀 Mais aussi je voudrais de grosses tètes, donc Le beurre, l'argent du beurre et le.. tout quoi!😁 18/05 Une bonne grosse défoliation. Je suis pas sur de mon affaire, mais je tente le coup.

2 weeks more to change cycle. Lower canopies should grow more in those weeks. Thats why i am doing lst 23.09.2022 gave them only water with 6,3 PH. and had %10 runoff from each other. 23.09.2022 I added an other 100w samsung lm281b+ quantum board with 660nm red. Will add 240w quantum board after flowering time. 23.09.2022 Had a very light defolation. Took 2 leaves from top which shade buds. She seem happy. 24.09.2022 she seem okay, growing. 25.09.2022 transplanted her into final pot 25lt. 40% soil 40% coco %20 perlite. Watered her with half those 1.5lt/5ml grow A-B. Her leaves looking down. Think it happened cuz of transplanting and stressted a bit. Also took 6 M-L size leaves which making shade on buds. 26.09.2022 She is out of transplant stress and seem fine! I think she will be in bloom in 10 days..

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