No problems this week. I only switched the places in the Tend because one of my purple chems became a little bit too big.

More leaf picking just sprayed for mildew and bugs.About 7 more weeks to go here on this one

F1 for this mad dog, will turn to flowering in a couple of days. This plant is growing super strong and fast, biggest of the bunch, I'm trying to keep her from stretching, want to flowr them short and bushy. Hopefully they go through flowering just fine.

Vraiment fast ! Les fleurs apparaissent très vite ! 😍

harvest, flower length 64 days, total growth time 88 days. Now wait for it to dry.

So all the plants are topped twice now and have all took well , my next step will be lowering my scrog net into position and also attach some gutter for collecting my runoff

Days 35-42 (Day 36) Some minor problems starting to arise here. A few times this week it got up to 90+ degrees which I think may have caused a bit of heat stress in some of the plants. I’m seeing a bit of cupping/crinkles on some of the fan leaves and some of the new growth is looking pretty gnarled and twisted. I hear windburn can cause this too so I’m turning my fans down to low speed. This could also be a problem with humidity so I’m going to turn off my humidifier, dim the lights and raise them. During my last feeding I mulched in some worm castings but it seems like they’re keeping the soil/coco from drying out. Pots are still decently heavy and even the surface is still quite moist but they aren’t showing any major signs of overwatering. I figure it will only be a few weeks before the castings break down so I will just leave it. A few of the plants are starting to show yellowing leaf tips which is probably some kind of micro nutrient lockout from my PH being slightly too high. It could also be from nute burn so I will water in 6.0 until I see some runoff. Although the most likely culprit is potassium excess. I’ve been feeding potassium almost as much as nitrogen so far. I know that can cause the yellowing of leaf tips by locking out trace minerals. It can also cause leaf problems like crinkling. Excess K can even cause water retention! Will water at 6.0 until run off next watering. The lst is coming along nicely. It was a good idea to remove the first two sets of branches (not leaves). Now I have 4-6 perfectly even stems coming from each plant that I plan to top one more time each. (Day 37) Today I’m going to vacuum, clean, wipe down and spray all my equipment in the tent. I’ve been letting the floor get quite dirty and I haven’t had the chance for a thorough clean since last round. I’m kind of surprised I haven’t seen any powdery mildew yet. I guess the prevention spray is working because the room has to be infected from my last crop. (Day 40) I was reading that you can foliar spray whatever you are deficient in for an immediate uptake. I‘m going to try that with my current potassium excess since it locks out trace minerals. I’m going to foliar feed a bit of phytoplankton at 15ml/L and some MagnifiCal + VeloKelp from Remo nutrients both at 5ml/L. The cal mag is not organic but as long as it’s not going into the soil and doesn’t contain chlorine I’m fine with it. I’m also going to be changing the light cycle to 18/6 for the remainder of veg. This will be their first dark cycle so they can properly foliar feed. Edit: humidity shot up to 85% a few hours after foliar spray. I went to top dress everything today and I mixed up the plants while doing so! So the ones I was unsure about I gave 1 extra tablespoon. I won’t top dress again for at least 10 days. Might give a light tea sometime next week. I also tilled the shit out of the top of each pot. It had a hard crusty layer on top that was keeping the medium from drying out properly. I’m not going to water again until everything is bone dry. Then I will water until slight runoff at 6.0 ph with some Dr. Marijane bacteria/root probiotic. I’m starting too see a lot more of these abrasions on some of the bigger fan leaves. It almost looks like thrip damage but I’m 100% sure it’s not a pest above ground. It could be bulb mites, which I found in my worm castings but I can’t check until the roots are more established in their pots. The leaves themselves are cold and feel damp to the touch. I haven’t even seen a fungus gnat since I last fed. I’m hoping it’s related to the K excess and clears up with the troubleshooting. (Day 41) Just ordered a wire cube rack to prop my plants up with and help evaporation/root warmth. Each cube is 11.8”x11.8”x11.8” and it comes with 16 cubes. So it will fit just perfectly in my 4x4. Depending on the size, I might order another one for the flower room where I would need 25 cubes.

Veg Week 4. Excellent week. 6th node appears. Looked at the leaves, and my guess, we are good to top. Topped plant on the 16th. As of 5 days later, the plant appears to have recovered and has started growing nicely again. We should be completing the 2nd topping within 10 days at most if I am correct.

Day 29 an her topping went well .. she been a slow grow but that had been on purpose... I just simply have no room for her at the moment so I just started giving her food like 2 days ago.. I topped her the other day and that's the first of many ... this is gonna be a plant I veg for a while.. I have the time and I want to get 4 or 5 sets of toppings in .. this is my first photoperiod indoors ( grew one once outside) so I wanna play with this .. I'd like to get atleast a half pound of this Jamaican landrace ! Happy growing everyone and thanks for stopping by! All likes and comments are appreciated! ✌️

At about mid-week the canopy was becoming very full so I defoliated to let light hit all of the bud sites. I found an article that mentioned "Schwazzing" and it seems close to how the approach this grow has gone. They got heavy defoliation just before flower and then also a few weeks in. The broken stem has healed dramatically even though I didn't reconnect it but let it stay split. I put rooting gel in the wound and then duck taped it. Now it looks like its going to seal itself back up within a few more weeks. The light is intense, 70-75K LUX on the top of the canopy. I have a little room left to raise the top light before I have to start dimming it. Hopefully I can manage to keep them at max 75K LUX without dimming, or may try supercropping depending on how the stretching goes. This week all the side lights are on along with the main light. They all seem to be loving the light and the heat has been manageable. They are drinking about a half gallon of water a day and TDS started at 1100 and ended at 800 by the end of the week. * Pineapple Express 1 is the furthest along and I can already tell the smell is going to be amazing, very fruity. * Pineapple Express 2 is very lush but flowering a notch slower. * Pineapple Skunk has a concentrated number of buds sites compared to the others, I'm very excited for this one. Day Temp: 75 degrees F Night Temp: 65 degrees F

Oct.29 - We transplanted the girls into soil since they are moving into vegetation phase Nov.4 - Watered each plant 250mL, 0.25mL of each nutrient for each girl

So week 15 and she’s been chopped she’s is massive and she smells great the colour oof her is mesmerising I can’t wait to smoke her 🔥🔥🔥💨💨let these hang for 5 days then started removing buds from stalk and gave her a little trim I’ll leave her on nets for a few more days before putting her in jars it’s taken hours to get through these two plants some parts Easyer to trim than others buts it worth the hard work in the end the colours are amazing and the smell is ridiculous so sweet leaves my mouth watering the buds are very dense aswell very happy with her 🍒🍒🔥🔥🔥💨💨💨💨🍒🍇🍇

Welcome to week 7! Almost time to flower and things are looking good. Since last week I did some light defoliation and cleaning up of the bottoms over a few days. I also lightly tied some of the branches out to allow a bit more light penetration but also to spread the canopy. This week (at the end of the week) the plants got one water containing a 2tsp of kelp, and 2 tsp of freeze dried coconut. The ladies also got one foliar spray with Mountain Organics sprouts, citrus and Rita oil combined with a small amount of Method 1pps (see picture in week 6). Temperature and humidity has really been steady thanks to the help of my Grow Ratio ESU and fans. Hoping I can keep this rate of growth into flower.  Strain: Moon Boots bred by Archive Seed Bank Tent: 2" X 4" @highdrogro Light: Scyence Dragon S Turbo 450 Watt LED Light Cycle: 18/6 Soil: Black Swallow Living Soil, KIS organic mix Air Circulation: AC Infinity Cloudline T6 Inline Duct Fan 7 Gallon Living Soil Bags: Grass Roots Fabric Pots

It has been another amazing week of the plants growing. I have been watching as the Fruity Freak leaves become progressively more fern-like, and ornamental as a result! Based on my Banizzle grows, I knew I needed to understand plant nutrients in a more meaningful way if I wanted these plants to thrive. So, I decided to get a soil test (see Ref. 1 below on how to perform a test) to understand what nutrients my plants needed. The report I received advised that I needed to add 200 lbs/acre of nitrogen, 150 lbs/acre of phosphorus, and 190 lbs/acre of potassium (see picture labeled Pic.1 (FYI you can't see these images unless you login to growdiaries)). I then researched what to do with my results (Ref. 2 helped), and I figured out that my nutrient needs of 200-150-190 fall close to a 2-1-2 ratio. I then looked at different types of organic fertilizers (see Ref. 3 and Ref. 4) and considered that I already had a 3-10-5 fertilizer (Vermibloom) on hand. I discovered Dr Earth’s Alfalfa Meal is 2-1-2 and includes beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae (to promote healthy plant growth and disease resistance). However, I knew I would be low on nitrogen if I only used those two fertilizers. Therefore, I decided to buy some blood meal (12-0-0). I also liked that blood meal is more fast acting while the other two are more moderate. I hunted around for a solid fertilizer calculator and found an amazing tool from the University of Georgia Extension (Ref. 5). I entered all three fertilizers into the calculator, and it kicked out the exact amount of each fertilizer I needed to apply to 1 square foot (see Pic. 2). As I am using 10-gallon fabric pots (that can hold 1.5 cubic feet, but I put stone on the bottom and there’s space left at the top) I decided to use the one square foot application rate as I can always add more later, but I can’t take it away. Not only did I want to understand the nutrients I needed, but I also wanted to understand the structure of the soil (as it was not included in my test results). North Dakota State University has a nice page that discusses this (Ref. 6), and I performed a soil ribbon test (see Video 1) based on this information. I determined my soil to be medium textured (which is great), but I have seen occasional water pooling on the surface, suggesting that it may be more of a medium-fine. This means adding peat moss, coco coir, or other amendments might improve drainage (and plant hydration) and allow for roots to grow more easily. In the long run, I plan to use compost to enhance the soil structure and nutrients. I filled the bottom of my 10-gallon fabric pots with a ½” of pea stone to allow for drainage (Pic. 3). I then partially filled two 5-gallon buckets with topsoil from near where I will plant (but not in an area the roots will reach). I used a digital scale to measure the amount of fertilizers recommended by the calculator (Pic. 4, 5, and 6) and added it to one of the 5-gallon buckets (see Pic. 7). I mixed the fertilizers into the soil as evenly as possible (Pic. 8 and 9). I then poured a two-inch layer of non-fertilized soil, then peat moss, and then fertilized soil (in a roughly 2:1:1 ratio) and blended them together. I repeated this until the pot was full (getting additional soil as needed), and then I repeated the process for the other three pots. I set the filled fabric pots in my garage (Pic. 10) for two days to allow any upset bugs to flee into my garage instead of my house. I then moved the pots (wrapping them in a contractor garbage bag to prevent making a mess) into the room with the grow light. I placed a board on top of the fabric pots to insulate the plants (in their smaller pots) from the cold soil (Pic. 11). Once the soil in the fabric pots reaches room temperature, I will transplant. (Ref. 1) This video shows the method I used to take a soil sample. I didn’t have a field to test, so I took four samples from the area where I will eventually plant outdoors and blended them together. I then mailed my soil sample off to the lab, and about a week later, I received an email with a PDF of my results (included with my pictures this week). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9AwxmFxBwg&t=8s (Ref. 2) This video from the University of Minnesota Extension (many universities have agriculture extensions that can assist you with soil testing and growing information for your area) discusses what to do with your soil testing results: https://youtu.be/HYrkcfE62Pg (Ref. 3) This is a nice article that discusses organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.grow-it-organically.com/npk-fertilizer.html (Ref. 4) This article lists the NPK values of many organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.epicgardening.com/organic-fertilizers/ (Ref. 5) Many websites tout a fertilizer calculator…but this one is hands down the best I have found. If you scroll down to the bottom, you can enter any fertilizer type you want (and the cost, if you want). It will give you the exact blend of multiple fertilizers to solve your nutrient deficiencies (I included a snapshot of the solution I used in my pictures). https://aesl.ces.uga.edu/soil/fertcalc/ (Ref. 6) This is an excellent article that discusses how to evaluate your soil: https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/publications/evaluating-preparing-and-amending-lawn-and-garden-soil

New light caused massive growth! Definitely stronger and cheaper than the last light

I will run Top Booster for 1 week then switch to Top Shooter for the remainder of flower. I wasn't expecting the extra 10" this past week. The only thing that is keeping up with Acid Dough (out of 4 other varieties in the scrog) is the pure sativa I put in the back corner! Acid Dough is a monster, even though the other 4 varieties were started 3.5w before the Acid Doughs they cover 6.5 sqft of the 16 sqft of the scrog. Oh btw the acid dough are 3/10 plants in the Scrog. 8/16 added a second trellis for support. And some more Acid Dough bud shots. 8/18 💥 the Acid Dough's directly under the light are sprouting Trichs (small yet). They are up to drinking about 4gal a day water and eating nutes even faster.

found some male sacks , gonna give her a chance since is not the first time it happens with frenchy, last crop i found just two and i thought it was bc of stress since i they were located in the lower sites. but this time i found sacks inside some buds, not the top ones tho. if they keep growing i will have to shop her but since she is one of the frostiest of the tent im going to give her a chance