End for this SLH ! Dutch classic I must ran ! Never forget the first time I smoke it in Amsterdam XXX !

Day 1 of Veg!: Both plants have shed their seeds and are turning towards the light. I was a little concerned with how they looked at first, very white, but I didn’t notice they broke ground for about 24hrs and the lights were off. They’ve got lots of color now! Day 3:These 2 are coming along awesome! Almost have the blumat system perfectly, soil is staying perfectly moist and the girls are loving it. Added a air stone to the reservoir of the Blumat System to ad oxygen and move the water around. Day 5: Plants are doing great. Steady growth right now. Still adjusting the blumat watering system to get it just right, but I’m almost there! It’s getting a little hotter during the day. In the high 70’s, but I’m okay with that for now. Lights are now at 75% Day 7: So my other seed never germinated. Put a new one in paper towel to see if it will go. Only problem is it will be 2 weeks behind by the time it comes up. I was really hoping to get a flat canopy all the way across the room, but who knows, may still be possible! Plants are loving the Gaia Green Living Soil mix, and today I just moved the blumat sensors to get a bit closer to the rootball.

Had stuff to deal with IRL this week. Only timelapse available.

Hi Growmies, Luckily she has made full recovery, in the tank below and up top :). OST of the root growth I. Observing, I would attribute to the combination of orca, rhizotonic and cannazym. Mainly the orca though ;). I will minimum give her 1–2 more weeks max until I flip her, as it feels like she should have a fairly short flowering phase. Overall she is looking very lush and healthy again, but still has some catching up to do. Here is the code that’ll give you 20% in Zamnesia‘s online store, just input ZAMMIGD2023 at checkout. Thanks for stepping by and until next week!

So i lost the tallest plant from animal snapping the stem, so its just this plant now Its still cold (around 15-17celcius) So its normal the plant is slowed down its ok as soon it gets warmer she will be flowering

Been looking forward to sharing this week. I made some changes to the grow room to make it a little more easy to work in, added some new things to make it fun, as well as mounted fans for a new airflow pattern. We’re in flower this week and this girls been unbelievable to train. It’s one of the most resilient autos I’ve ever grown. Autos can be a gamble sometimes. I’ve lollipopped it, LSTed it, and supercropped it, heavily defoliated, it has always been leaves back up within a few hours, and the minty green color of these leaves is beautiful. It is my only time growing fastbuds lemon pie, but if someone is looking for one to train heavy I already feel confident recommending this one. Of course always listen to your plant. The addition of the crates helped me widen the usual tie down coverage I am limited to beyond the pots. I will never not use these crates in a future grow when training. The plant will breathe a lot better all the way through to flower. I have 4 corner air flow and a top fan I recently set up to work much more efficiently as a soft constant breeze mixed with a heavier oscillating gust to mimic the outdoors. The crates sit on a 12” wide 4 wheel dolly and spin within the new 14”x14” plant saucers. I just use a shop vac connected to a 7 gal bucket to remove the runoff. It’s been really fun sharing my grows and I can tell already it’s making me a better grower. I’ve got a cannon rebel now so I can take better quality pics and I usually post a lot of them and they are in order throughout the week. Part of growing is finding cheaper or smarter ways of doing things. If anyone has any tips they use or dollar store finds I’d love if you’d share in the comments. I never expected a $6 crate could change how my plants grow so much. I am not going to on this grow but it would be easy to zip tie 4 bamboo or pvc stakes in each corner and make an even wider raised single plant trellis system above the crates for a much cheaper price than buying one. I have considered doing 3 plant grows of the same strain on here and mainlining one, LSTing one, and letting one grow naturally to see what I get the best yields strain to strain with. I would be doing this within the fastbuds genetic lineup. If that’s something that sounds good to you I’d appreciate any feedback either way. Hope you enjoy… Happy growing!

Leistung der HPS Lampe von 400 Watt Blühtewoche 1 auf 450 Watt Blühtewoche 2 erhöht. Stärke der Umluft etwas erhöht. Bei allen 4 Ladies an Tag 11 nach Einleiten der Blüte Superscropping und entlaubt im unteren Drittel der Pflanzen. Schwankung im PH Wert zwischen 5,7 und 5,9. Schwankungen im EC Wert zwischen 0,7 und 1,0. Temperaturunterschied Tag zu Nacht ca. 4-5 Grad Celsius. Luftfeuchtigkeit Max in dieser Woche bei 60 % , dieser wird jetzt gesenkt. Keine Mangelerscheinungen, Wachstum gut. 3 von 4 Pflanzen wachsen gleichmäßig, 1 Stk ca. 10 cm kleiner. In Woche 3 wird der Spreader nun auf weit gestellt und die Leistung auf 500 Watt erhöht. In Woche 2 wurde der Befeuchter aus dem Zelt raus genommen und durch einen Entfeuchter für die Nachtphasen ersetzt. Angabe CO2 mit Mittelwert aus Frischluft , da in der Tagphase (Nachts) eine dauerhafte Versorgung mit aktiver Zuluft erfolgt um co2 zuzuführen und den Raum zu kühlen

Mar 24: Watering till runoff now... runoff ppm was 2500+... Will be using very mild nutes to flush over 1 - 3 feeds... or until I am near my input. Mar 26: Continuing to use 650ppm feed with bloom focus, 2L per plant gives 15% runoff... Runoff ppm is still very high... I wanted to check pH of runoff but the color is so vibrant i cant use the pH drops to view color, need to get a pH probe. Plants are thriving, no issues at all. the extra fan fixed the post-water droop. One plant is bushy and has the most bud sites, One is the smallest but has the most uniform structure, this one has the biggest buds and thickest stalk, One is about in the middle of the 2. Mar 29: one of these girls gets droopy early when its time for water, thought the canopy was too high so i tied down some more, no cigar... gonna try increasing calmag, if that doesent work im going to reposition in the grow box to a side instead of middle, may not need the upper end ppfd...

Hehehe che dire! Pe so che le.foto.si commenti o da sole! L'odore di vaniglia e qualcosa di allucinante! Dopo 14 giorni di lavaggio (10 con flawess finish e 4 solo acqua a 200ppm) ha preso un colore autunnale stupendo! Tra tutte sicuramente salta molto all'occhio....gli ultimi due giorni l'ho lasciata denutrita in modo che capisse che stesse arrivando la sua fine ed oggi ha ricevuto il suo colpo di grazia 😔..... Pulita completamente da ogni tipo di foglia di zucchero il peso complessivo (senza rami e rametti) sono di 334g...molto molto soddisfatto del risultato e del prodotto finale! Pe. Sto che da me adesso fa caldo e non riesco a fare scendere la temperatura di più la sera per darli un colore un po' più violaceo...ma forse era un fenotipo proprio così, ma non mi interessa il colore onesto, l'importante e il risultato finale e sono veramente molto contento! Grazie infinite a fast Buds per l'opportunità che mi dà ogni giorno facendomi coltivare le loro genetiche e spero che questo diario possa essere di aiuto a qualcuno...un altro ringraziamento va sicuramente alla parte più importante del progetto, il pubblico! Tutti voi in parte avete contribuito a ciò motivandomi con i vostri commenti e like! Ringrazio infinitamente tutti quanti di cuore! Ciao a tutti al prossimo progetto! ( A breve💪🏼) 🌱🍄🌈

***DIVINE SEEDS ***** *****OPIUM***** Week 22 For my outside ladies, Opium, Fractal, and Lemon Cake These gals are weathered. Opium is taller than I can see (over 6.5 feet) but from my dining room window, I see the top 3 inches of her main cola is dead. Many dead leaves packed in the buds. Her colas on all stems are massive, sticky and resinous. My plan was to wash and make bubble hash from her. Temperatures should be dropping into the 70 with nights in the 60’s but have returned to the upper 80-90 with high humidity. This week rain is expected every day following another hurricane. That was the determining factor to chop all outside girls down. All the plants were chopped on Sept 12. Opium hung in the dark for 2 days and when Hubby started trimming up Opium he found dark areas deep in the buds and much of the bud mass just fell off. So both Lemon Cake and Opium have been tossed into the trash. I don’t even want to compost the plants in the event spores over winter. I hate losing any plant after I spent so much time growing them out but I won’t risk health over questionable harvests. I did an initial spot check on Fractal and she looked clean, but is being trimmed for a thorough inspection for any disease. These ladies had a long vegetative phase. Probably too long since I started them in April so they would be hardened off before I went on vacay in May. Three months of veg caused massive vegetative growth, especially on Opium deep in the buds.. The various breeder notes on photos indicate late September or October harvest. So that was in the back of my mind during this grow. All of them were in flower by early July. Light hours were over 14.5 and won’t be at 12/12 until September 26 (2 more weeks). I’m sure the plants were confused by the long veg and just said "Hell, I'm going for it" and started early flowering. I grew them too long waiting for the trichomes to develop. 👉Note for next year start seeds later in spring. 👉Plan start date based on counting back from the vernal equinox. 👉Based on such a long growing season, Autos may be preferable to finish quickly and not have extended vegetation phase before flower. Thank you @DivineSeeds for the opportunity to grow your exotic strains. I wish I could have completed the grow with a smoke report. I was looking forward to being daydreamy psychedelically stoned, not to mention killing my chronic pain and insomnia. I do have more seeds and will try again in a controlled environment and trying topping or mainlining to keep her shorter and more manageable. Thank you friends for the visits, likes and comments, I appreciate all of you💚. Sending love, light, and healing 💫 💫Natrona 💫

5/25: It rained again today for most of the day, but I managed to get back out there and take some photos after it let up. I also shot a short video early in the a.m while it was sprinkling and the lights were on... I heard that this strain flowers really fast, but I really don't think she can finish before June 21 (the summer solstice). The other two seedlings (FFT#5 and FFT#6) are in the same boat. The 5 clones outdoors might be able to finish before they get the signal to reveg. I may end up bringing as many of them as I can fit into my closet to finish and starting another batch of beans to grow outdoors this summer... 5/26 - 5/31: I did some training on her early in the week between rain showers, and foliar fed with Microlife maximum bloom formula. She was looking a little N deficient, so I assume the dry amendments have petered out. I top-fed her with another couple tablespoons of cavern culture and on the 31st, they were dry enough to feed them. I gave them big bloom, tiger bloom, grow big, beastie bloomz, silica, endoboost, signal, humic acid, liquid kelp/fish emulsion, and liquid molasses. It just feels so strange that I'll be harvesting outdoor photos in June!?! That's it for week 8-

Rain for a whole week. Been pishhh

Sweet Bourbon Kush auto is doing great. She had a big growth spurt this last week. She is starting to develop her colas, and start stacking. I did lollipop her some and defoliated some of the bushier parts of the canopy. She is ready for another week of growing. Thank you Super Sativa Seed Club. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Semana con nutriente de floración al 100% y potenciadores. Se cambió de lámpara por otra del doble de potencia 2000W. BESTVA Apareció una de las plantas con manchas en las hojas y no sé que es aún. No es ninguna plaga. - Luz: Bestva Pro 2000W / 18 h/d -FloraNova Bloom G.Hydroponics: 0.7ml/l - Bio Bud G. Hydroponics 2.5ml/l - Armour SI G. Hydroponics 0.4ml/l - C4 Mills 1ml/l - Everest: 0.5 ml/l Control biológico: -Solution (bioinsecticida generalista: Beauveria, Metarhizium, Lecanicillium y Cladosporium + esencia de ajo y chile). -Acaridox (bioacaricida: Metarhizium e Hirsutella + esencia de canela) - Scamin (control escama y cochinilla) Cladosporium Herbarum -Bioprotection BD Plus (microorganismos bioestimulantes y bioprotectores: Trichoderma + actinomicetos + Lactobacillus) - Bioprotection TR + BSLIN (biofungicida generalista: Bacillus subtilis + Trichoderma y metabolitos).

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

I'm flushing it since 1 week , HERE WE ARE ENDLY 💚 !!!!! the 3 latest day i increase the water that I'm giving to it and the latest day I'm flushing with terra aquatica flush (3ml/l) I'm so impressed by this queen 👑 , so heavy , so powerful !!! From the beginning to the end this is a phenomenal strain , total love !

Looking quite nice on this one ✌️

💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Code Name FBT2311 Well growmies we are at 14 days in and everything is going great 👌 👉 Started to do some low stress training👈 We all ready got , some Pre-flower showing already 👌 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

💚 ORION F1 ORGANIC DRY AMENDMENTS 💚 The plant has well exceeded my 💚 ORION F1 LIQUID NUTRIENTS 💜 So far really happy, has taken very well to the topping. She has shown good growth which I'm very pleased to see. This is what I watered this week: 18.6.25: I watered with 1.2L of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.1 and containing the following nutrients per 2 litres; ♡ 0.5 ml Ecothrive Trace ♡ 1/4 Tsp Ecothrive Biosys PH: 6.1 PPM: 373 23.6.25 I gave 3 ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3 with no nutrients. PPM: 307 PH: 6.3 28.6.25: I watered with 2ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.5 and containing the following nutrients per 2 litres; ♡ 1/4 Tsp Ecothrive Biosys ♡ 2ml Ecothrive Trace PH: 6.5 PPM: 418 Thanks for stopping in this week 💚😊🍃✌️🌱