Girls are developing well, i have a minor issue but is making me uncomfortable, a bug for the third time something that by research seams to be a lace bug, basically is like little drops of black oil in the leafs this develops in to a little static larvae then it becomes black, is tiny. And apparently does nothing on the surface to the plant, but man this bastards are imortal, I’m in the point of dropping a nuke or using a flame tower in the grow room. I’m deep in to flower... Besides that fir the third time, all good...

Flower day 31 - Having a little trouble with the temperature getting higher than I would like because my dehumidifier puts off some heat while it’s running so it’s been a constant struggle to keep the environment in this tent stable! Definitely will not have so many plants next run lol, but all in all the ladies are growing great & I can’t wait to see how they turn out! Thanks for following friends & happy growing!✌️🏼🌱 Flower day 33 - Fed half the plants today with PH at 6.4 to try and keep the humidity down some I’ll water the other half tomorrow!

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Amazing, she totally resined until her big leaves were covered with ice, something beautiful her scent of vanilla something fruity with sweet indicates that her care was well associated with her so, the most of this girl we can hope for.

Day 56 Happy 8 weeks, Fiona! Still the easy going plant everyone wishes for :) I am pretty sure I can see first signs of flower. So one week after switching to 12-12, we are in (very) early flowering. Day 58 Well, I am running out of space 😅 My Scrog-Screen is bursting and I am really happy I have been using it because this Green Princess Fiona is BIG in every aspect (I guess this is what a long veg does with them 😍). From now on, I‘ll only use LST to adjust height differences but no more Scrogging. I‘ll defoliate her soon (probably towards the end of the week). Day 61 Decided to make perfect use of home office and defoliated Fiona. Also fed her 2.5l with half the recommended dose of nutes. Day 62 She looks happy! Doesn‘t seem to care about the leaves she lost yesterday. I‘ll give her another day rest before one final round of LST tomorrow 👑

Home stretch, Lamby is seducing my sense of smell, I am going to harvest on week 26, going to pump nutrients in her her for 5 weeks straight, then the remaining 5! Will be rain water, flush everything that will cause a harsh smoke… plus a month of curing in a jar in darkness. Right now now I want her to bulk up.

Has been very dry, some cold nights this week and high humidity which is a recipe for PM. I found a few on old fan leafs had a few small spots starting so I remove them. My bubble gum plant seems to be hit the hardest which its still not too bad yet but I think it's having a hard time because I got hit by that tree branch. So in a preventative effort I got a UVC light, and I made up baking soda and peroxide solution and sprayed the plants down. I kind of got aggressive with it because I really don't wanna lose these plants. I hit them with the UVC light once then the next morning it was rainy and stuff so I said fuck it they're wet anyway I might as well spray them so I made a baking soda and peroxide solution and then the next morning it was still rainy and I put a little more baking soda than I thought I did. So I made one more peroxide solution to rinse it off. Then I hit the plant with one more UV treatment. Three days later I don't see any pm back, but I do see some damage to the leaves from my treatment so it was a little powerful and some of the hairs turn orange from the lake but I'm not worried about that. It's looking like this is gonna be early harvest, and after my work clothes with my indoor stuff, I'm thinking most of this is going to be pressed into rosin if i make there. Buds are developing nice and look really good. They are super frosty and hoping it's helping protect it. I don't see any signs of bud rot yet.

Water week8/1

Okay no more messing around I’ve upped the watering to around 4.5 gal per eight half plants - Was gone last three days Cali weather good now and in 90’s! Plants have had little water///stressing healthy genetics here - 707 heavy water holding soil had held up thankfully - - low stress bending methods still at work. Super slow pouring on watering feeds especially now when top soil seems a bit flatter and dryer. These panda film pots SUCK, very good water hold as little drainage and tough for even water and no spillage sometimes - maybe this is why people invest in a gallon per minute reverse osmosis pump water gun Stronger smells now of that goodness

2000 ml alle 2 Tage PH-Wert: 6,2 EC-Wert: 2.1 Temperatur: 22ºC Luftfeuchtigkeit 62% Schädlingsbekämpfung: Nematoden PPFD: 510 µmol/m²/s DLI: 33 Düngemittel: Mineralischer Dünger 3,5-6-6 Besonderheiten: Wurden direkt in die erde gepflanzt in einer Kokos-Quelltabletten. -Tag 65 Heute haben wir sie mit 2000 ml Wasser gegossen, versetzt mit 1,5 ml Calmag, 5 ml Canna PK 13/14, 1 ml Plagron Green Sensation und 1 ml Plagron Power Buds. Der EC-Wert lag bei 1.460 mS/cm und der pH-Wert bei 6,2 -Tag 67 Heute haben wir sie mit 2000 ml Wasser gegossen, angereichert mit 1,5 ml Calmag, 6,5 ml Canna PK 13/14, 1 ml HY-PRO Epic Blast sowie 0,32 ml HY-PRO Generator. Der EC-Wert betrug 1.510 mS/cm und der pH-Wert lag bei 6,2 😍 -Tag 69 Heute haben wir den PH wert des Runoff Kontrolliert und er ist leicht zu hoch mit 6,6. Der EC-Wert lag bei 230. Wir haben ihr angepasstes Wasser mit Mikroorganismen gegeben.

Se aplicó defoliación para que los brotes que no se ven bien comiencen a salir a la luz. Al otro día reaccionaron muy bien a la defoliación (para poder hacerla se sacó la malla y se volvió a poner). Todo bien, todo como se espera. Seguimos 👽 ....

estas pequeñas sorprendieron con la prdoduccion de resina que dieron 22 gramos aprox y 19 cada planta

Coming close to the end now folks they were checked on 62 days old with microscope and a good few trichomes still looking very clear so will give them a few more days and check again and most importantly I will keep yea's all updated happy growing folks 😁

Bloom 17

Day 14. Weather is finally warm enough to put them out completely. Was kind of concerned with even getting them to this point. I started them fairly early. Day 15. May 9th, 2024 They lasted all night outside finally and will stay. I did add some worm casting on top of the soil. I plan to add some veg nutes soon. Will be using roots organics terp tea line. May 11th #3 is 3.5 inches #2 2.25 inch #1 2 inch

Der Haupttrieb wurde am 16.3. geerntet den Rest der Pflanze am 18.3.💛

Cut the net down now as all stems hardened in place. Had a reshuffle and as the Dos Si Dos much taller i have moved lights to top and propped my other 3 up on boxes to level the height more. Really pleased with this plant so nice and short but spread with lots of tops, smells really nice cant wait to see how this fattens up. Had to do a little late trimming to open up bottom just removing little bits and leaves well under the lights. Done this mainly to help with the airflow and just to give plants little more space as i suffered a little rot on my first grow as was cramped and struggled with humidity however got good dehumidifier and plenty of airflow so fingers crossed it stays well away this time. Overall plant looks really strong and healthy cant wait to see how these last 4 to 5 week turn out.

No stress in her final week. She had just water this week which stopped 3 days ago as I knew I was chopping her. D69 of bloom and I'm very happy. Flowers are super dense. Like rocks..👍🏼😋. See you in days for a little update on how they have dried.🇬🇧👍🏼