Ok so this week I did a defoliation and a tigh down too the netting , I really was not planning on doing such a big defoliation but the leafs became thick and dense and there was almost no light penitration down too the lower branches of the plant , so she is opened right up now and the humidity and temperature has dropped loads and the air is moving alot better around the leaves and branches , I will not take anything more off her now , I have also added Cal mag too the nutrients for this week only , I am very happy with them so far and being new too all this it's all very exciting , Thanks for looking :)

Plants are doing nicely on their own. I have learned to be more hands-off and let them take their own pace. I check soil dryness every few days and add water/nutrients when dry past my first knuckle. Sticking with the same nutrient mix as it seems to be doing the trick. If you watch the timelapse, you'll see a moment of panic when the reflector fell over onto Cheecha. But, in the long run, what doesn't kill them seems to be making them stronger. Cheecha is now almost the same height as her sister Chonga. We're in Fall now, so the room is getting a little cooler, but above 70 degrees F. Humidity is also starting to drop a bit too.

27.08.2024 D48 since cutting, lady starting to bush like their mother, as i did nt have place for 8 massive bush in the tent i proceed to some pruning and set some bud clip. overall look GBC #1 16 inch, flowering GBC #2 16 inch, flowering GBC #3 16 inch , still in veg, 😰 GBC #4 18 inch, full bud mod 😍 GBC #5 18 inch , full bud mod 😍 GBC #6 19 inch, flowering GBC #7 20 inch, start flowering👍 GBC #8 18 inch, flowering i will not weekly uptade, but keep you tuned

This was the best yielder of the 4 but only by 1 gram VS the Tangie-matic Another amazing smelling strain, It is like sweet creamy berries in a candy bar this will be great as desert after a nice meal. happy with the out come of this auto from MSNL

Day 43 - added water 0.5L Day 44 - added water with filtlizer 0.5L . Day 45 - added water 0.5L . I have stop use humidifyer . Day 46 - added water with filtlizer 0.5L . Day 47 -added water 0.5L . Day 48 - added 1 L water + 1 liter water with filtlizer . Having some mite issuie ,I went to the store and got some neem oil lets see how it went . Sprayed on each plant 1 L water . NeemBe (biobee) 10 Mg. Day 49 - added 0.5 L water and tie up the big plant becuse of the hight .

budding up nicely now. One pheno looks to be growing different bud formations and is much more frosty. O stupidly didn't take a cut of this in veg so I've taken a flower cut to reveg and try monstercropping.

A good week here. Girl got watered once through the week. Otherwise just leaving her be. Will top her this week and start to train outwards before flipping. Lights at 40% power. Here are the lights details: Medic Grow Mini Sun-2 150W LED Model: MN150-022 Spectrum mode: V1 Efficacy: 2.8 umol/J Thanks for stopping by! You can find the light on Grow Diaries: https://growdiaries.com/grow-lights/medic-grow/mini-sun-2-150-watts You can find the light on Medic Grow's website: https://medicgrow.com/

We are really happy to show youethe progress of the girl's, we are going to upload the week's that'we couldn't Upload from the app, we are getting really frosty on these two Epic Genetics Strains, the epical widow and epic spigol Field, both really beautiful Strains

Lots of growth this week Bkackberrys taking off so had to raise other plants hoping she dont take up too much room Blueberry still hasn't shown what sex it is yet so waiting on hopefully her to show

:)

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

hello guys..its bin a long week but my girls are here at week 5,,week 5 will be the last final week of veg an hopefully the results will be good as they look healthy right know...its my first time doing everything what am doing here and i have learn allot,,,GG4 is a stable strain just don't top lower then 5 sprouts you will get a slow growth...with the HESI NUTRIENTS,,, I AM FEEDING EVERY 2 OR 3 DAY,,,and i am still going with NO BURN...the only stress they pass was HEAT in the first 3 weeks of veg,TOPPING and LST....lets see what week 5 brings guys..as i always say feel free to ask anything about my grow anytime..😏🙏🙏🙏💪💪💪😎😎😎

Que pasa familia, vamos con la tercera semana de floración de estás Zkittelz de Seeds Mafia. La humedad está entorno al 50%,y la temperatura la tengo entre los 22/24 grados. Controlamos en ph en cada riego a 6.2. Y el agua que utilizo de riego suele estar estancada entre 24 / 36 horas, hasta aquí todo bien, tienen un buen color, ya van progresando y creciendo a buen ritmo, vemos cómo avanzan estas semanas y como avanza el progreso de las flores. Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Another week down and I think its time to move the camera up a bit. Getting hard to keep them both in that dumpy camera's optics. At some point I'm doing to invest in some decent glass for these videos. The plants seem to be rocking along fine after their initial topping. Did some light defoliating here and there but I'll pretty much leave them alone from this point on. I might do a bit more training but honestly I'm not after a perfect canopy.

🌿 Woche 3 Eine weiter recht heiße Woche.🌡️🔥 🌱 Wachstum Beide Damen haben einen schönen Wuchs und Grünton. Die anfängliche leichte Verbrennung hat sich perfekt rausgewachsen. Nun sollte die Livingsoil den Job super ausführen können. Noch sehen sie beide auch sehr identisch aus. 💧 Only Water Ich habe mich dazu entschieden, meiner Livingsoil ein wenig mehr unter die Arme zu greifen. Ein Grow-Kollege hat mir verschiedene Dinge empfohlen, die man machen kann. Ich habe mich dann für 2 Mittel entschieden, die mein Only Water Experiment nicht aushebeln: 🔹 Effektive Mikroorganismen von Multikraft 🔹 Mycorrizae von R&R Beide Mittel gelten nicht als Dünger für die Pflanze, sondern als Booster für den Boden. Dementsprechend kann man diesen Run immer noch als Only Water bezeichnen 💦✅ 📟 Blumat und Gießen Ich freunde mich immer mehr mit dem Blumat Digital an. Ich wüsste nicht, wie ich ohne ihn durch den Mulch den Gießzeitpunkt ermitteln sollte. Rumwühlen oder den Topf heben ist leider keine Option ❌. Deswegen bin ich wirklich froh, dass es ihn gibt 🙏. Ich gieße weiter nach Fahrplan: 🕒 Alle paar Tage bei 110 mbar 🚿 2 l Wasser Diesmal habe ich etwas EM Bodenbuster mitgemischt. Damit hab ich dann den Boden mit zusätzlichen Mycorrizae geimpft. ☀️ Wetter Wenn man bedenkt, dass es tage­lang locker über 33 °C heiß war 🌡️🔥 und ich dazu keinerlei RLF-Unterstützung hatte 💨❌ – sehen beide Damen top aus ✅. Manchmal denke ich: „Oh Gott, geht das gut?“ 😅 Aber ich lass es drauf ankommen. Und bis jetzt läuft alles nach Plan 🛸✨ 🎶 The Grow must go on! 🌱🔥

As I figured she really started picking up speed this week. I'll be switching her to swell this week. Looking at a week 8 or 9 finish

Thanks once again to RQS for sending me this girl. She's not the most fruity smoke, but more of a pine with a unique tropical/banana peel to it. A nice strain for the cannasseur, and one I'm really enjoying, especially for my back. Thank you to everyone who follows, likes, comments and supports in any way. In means a lot and keeps the passion to grow and continue uploading content on here and IG. Because I have 4 seperate plants/strains in one tent, under one light, I've had to calculate these by dividing the conditions by 4 (4 plants in total sharing same conditions). This is the fairest and only way to work it out on average as a full tent. Happy growing! 🐺