Ultima semana consumiendo sus reservas....esperare a secar bien el sustrato después de el lavado de raíces y se vendra la cocecha!

Harvested the haze and cookies.. poor outcome.. lessons learned. PW going good but not ready for harvest i reckon.

The big stretch has slowed, gathering she's getting ready for flowering now,the smell is getting stronger,im impressed how good she's going and really enjoying my first grow , hopefully she gets fat nugs soon

This week has progressed normally but it would appear that BBK a number three is growing some sort of white substance on his leaves on one side of the plant. I am unsure if it is some sort of deficiency, fungus, mildew, bacteria, genetic defect, or user defect. Other than that it would appear that plant is healthy and growing in fact it is taller and bigger than the other two. Helmet head BBK 83 is doing well considering that I thought it wasn't going to make it due to sprouting with the shell fully attached.

Esta semana ya realice la poda. Se encuentra en estos momentos en etapa de secado dentro de una caja especial para secados de flores que uso siempre y nunca me falla. En humedo hay 195g y utilice una lampara led de 150w en todas sus etapas. Próximamente estaré publicando cuando este en curado.

Just a little background on my current plants...

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

So she is a little stunted by the rain! The soil got completely drenched for about a week and I can tell it effected the growth. Looks like the pre pre flowers are starting to show at the end of week 3. No food yet, but thinking soon when the soil drys out because the rain washed out the soil! 🤷‍♀️🏻 ✌️💚🌿💨

My experience overall can be best described as an interesting enlightening process. Since it was my first time growing it was definitely a learning experience. From the height being as tall as it was to the high winds in the area making it difficult to keep them from toppling when the buds were reaching full maturity. Thinking it would have benefited from more topping than just the once. The terps that this strain has are exquisite!! I am going to miss walking by them towering over me and just breathing in their berry cream aroma, taking in the sweetness like I had just had some dessert. Really enjoyed this strain and hope to grow it again sometime. Thanks for checking out my first grow 🌼💚✌️

Awwww mannnn. She's getting pretty huge. I flipped to 12/12 on May 8th. Now we wait to see how much she stretches and for buds to start forming. So excited!!!

Very happy with the yield which was close to a gram per watt used with a quite low yielding strain and that was with a very very close trim job. Could easily have been a gram a watt had I not trimmed it for a top shelf look. Quality was as usual 10/10 with runtz muffin which I have come to expect. Such amazing phenos to be found.

I have now put all 8 cuttings from the nutriculture x stream into the growtool 0.8. the best 4 cuttings stay in the ScrOG.

Buds and leaves are starting to have a black hue to them the plant is starting to fourm decent buds they have a lot of resemblance to the gas cream Runtz and some of the bubble og phenos

Uuuuf en este caso tenemos problemas... Más serios logramos agregar la ampolleta pero en las noches para nuestras plantas estamos en los 20g 19g entocnes lo más probable es que tengan o puedan sufrir un estrés x frio ... Y eso es mi mayor preocupación... Cambiamos que su noche sea en las horas más calidad de mi cuidad y sacamos el instractor para evitar aires más helados ... Y x último como son automáticas puedo reducir su ciclo de luz ... Antes teníamos 18/6 ahora estamos 21/3 para evitar más heladas .... Con esto el reporte de nuestra semana 3 Esperamos pa guste !

Week 10 So last week I had CalMag problem, you can still see it on her leaves, she was really stunted - not drinking, yellow/brown spots on leaves. Right now it seems under control. What did I change? First of all I looked up, seems like CalMag is best absorbed with pH 6.5-7.2 or something, so one of the mistakes was pH too low - changed it to 6.5-6.8. I think it all started, when I experimented and gave too much nutrients it got “lock out”. That’s why I then flushed it 2 times with only water + calmag at pH 6.8-7 and from then on strictly giving nutrients only according to the table that’s given by Terra Aquatica. Seems like it picked up again, not seeing any new yellow/brown spots. The buds are huge, smell is great, I hope I can farm soon. Do you guys/gals have any tips? (On late flower/drying/curing)

It’s look beautiful didn’t get very big but the buds are beautiful looks like it’s gonna be some sticky icky lost of crystals can’t wait to smoke it!!!

Hi Growmies, I topped her towards the end of this week and removed two sets of fan leaves. It opened the plant up very nicely in combination with the light LST I applied earlier in the week. The plant is taking very nicely to the LST and didn’t seem to care about the topping either. I attribute this to the strong root system she already has. For the next week I have fed her additionally to the canna nutes, some plant success orca, for healthier roots and Rezin from greenplanet to prepare her for pre flower. Here is the code that’ll give you 20% in Zamnesia‘s online store, just input ZAMMIGD2023 at checkout. Thanks for stepping by and until next week!

After topping last week,we flipped to flower! I've been training the girl down with LST wire. Want as level as I can until I reach the edge of the light. But I've been increasing the light intensity slowly this run. Normally I just blast them but went slow over the week. Getting water more often now and will install the self watering pots today. Lights at 100% power. Here are the lights details: Medic Grow Mini Sun-2 150W LED Model: MN150-022 Spectrum mode: V1 Efficacy: 2.8 umol/J Thanks for stopping by! You can find the light on Grow Diaries: https://growdiaries.com/grow-lights/medic-grow/mini-sun-2-150-watts You can find the light on Medic Grow's website: https://medicgrow.com/

Day 21: A great week for these girls considering my nearly drowning them with a high res !!!. Aside my errors and the recovery , all been good. Wedding Cake has had an excellent stretch period giving her a really nice size to flower with. She didn't blink with the over filling as she was the top end and didn't suffer . Buds are forming up really nice on her all over and below the main canopy is just as full. She will get so.e lower small growth removed for air movement but as she is happy and vibrant I dont want to upset her now. lol The Ghost O.g did suffer a little with her main growing size but has put out some very tangible mains now. She has so.e very big fan leaves on her too. Gorilla Glue#4 had the worst of the drowning and her leaves are showing the signs of damage now. She is a good size and typically GG but I think recovery has slowed her down a little. Overall I am happy with their survival in such a hostile situation. good genetics . Be sane and safe Growmies.