It's week 10 of flowering, and Lemon Cherry Gelato is slowly starting to broaden out a bit. However, she'll still need some time—about 2-3 weeks, I estimate. From now on, she'll only be given tap water with a pH level of 6.5. The leaves are slowly turning purple. 🍋🍒🍦

El secado fgue bantante rapido, olorosas, sabrosas al comsumo y asotan como toda una verdadera indica. la cosecha es poca, pero la sepa es exotica. Muchos terpenos, los colores de la sepa son violetosos y verde flourecente. La recomiendo altamente, solo que su cosecha por planta es poca.

Welcome Back!💚 Nach der sechsten Blütewoche konzentriert sich die Pflanze voll auf die Blüten- ähhhh Samenproduktion! Ja leider. Es sind einiges an Seeds die sich entwickeln. Den es haben sich doch viele Hermaphroditensäckchen gebildet. Größtenteils doch auch unbemerkt, da ich die Pflanze ständig abgesucht und kontrolliert hatte. Leider wohl doch... Scheint als wäre die Genetik trotz der stark wissenschaftlichen Absicht irgendwie instabil. Ist bereits der zweite Versuch und Zack schon wieder. Naja, ich werde sie dennoch fertig Growen, da ich auf jedenfall auf das Wirkspektrum gespannt bin. Und jetzt die Pflanze zu kappen, dafür wäre mir die Arbeit zu schade Die Pflanze ist von der Beschreibung her nicht darauf getrimmt viele Trichome auszubilden, da dass Hauptaugenmerk ja auch auf die THCV Produktion gelegt wurde. Ich hoffe dass sich die Samenproduktion in Grenzen hält Die Umgebungsgegebenheiten sind ok: ————— 🌞 Temp: 26°C 🌚 Temp: 18°C bis 19°C 💨 RH: 56% VPD: 1,10 kPa 😎 PPFd: 830 mqm ————— Viele Grüße 👋

I have to dry the buds in the dark, at 20 degrees in 50% humidity 🙏🤝

June 28: record rainfall this June and she is healthy but behind schedule due to the weather. Perhaps a bit slow to recover from the first topping but she will get going fast the next two weeks.

Entering the 11th week marks the 5th week of flowering and she is looking great! I decided to make the most of two small side branches and crossbreed her with a Big Bud for an indica hybird and another branch with Durban Poison for a Sativa Hybird. 4 mainlines are looking great.

Week 02 Introduction This week has been a bit of a struggle. Had my first experience dealing with slime and brown algae. But I think adding enzymes and increasing the beneficial bacteria helped to fix the issue. Also experienced nutrient burn for the first time. My nutrient solution strength got as high as 671 PPMs. So backed it down to about 430 PPMs during the end-of-week reservoir change. Also cut Hydroguard (expired?), CaliMagic, and Superthrive from this grow. Now she's still stunted, but is starting to recover. Hopefully... [START OF WEEK 02] Day 01 - Monday - 08/10/20 - Total Days: 008 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Still looks a bit yellow. But getting larger! --- Solution strength was at 248 PPMs. --- Just topped off with a bit of distilled water --- PH went up to 6.1 so PH'd down to 5.8 --- Ran the top feed for a bit to wet the hydroton. - [2130]: She's looking even more yellow now. --- Even the new leaves are really yellow. --- Decided to add more base nutes. --- Added 4ml of Sensi A --- Added 4ml of Sensi B --- Now at about --- Solution Strength went up to 304 PPM. --- PH was at 6, --- Also raised the water level a bit more. --- I really hope it's a nutrient deficiency and not an over-watering issue. --- Please live! Day 02 - Tuesday - 08/11/20 - Total Days: 009 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Looking less droopy. But still yellow. --- Decided to do a reservoir change. --- 4.5gal of distilled water --- 8ml of Sensi Grow A --- 8ml of Sensi Grow B --- 8ml of Voodoo Juice --- 4ml of B-52 --- 4ml of CaliMagic --- 4ml of Hydroguard --- 4 drops of Superthrive --- PH'd down to 5.8 --- Solution strength: 302 PPM --- Since I didn't want to risk over-watering the rockwool, I did not to do a top feed, may do one tonight after the sleep cycle (lights are still set to go off at 10am and back on at 4pm). --- As I was doing a reservoir change, I noticed that the tubes and bucket were a bit slimy. Didn't really stink or anything. Is this normal? Maybe due to the Hydroguard and Voodoo Juice? --- I hope she gets better soon! - [2215]: Getting larger! But still yellow. --- Also can see a root growing through the net pot! Tiny little thing but it's there! Will have to start dropping water once more appear. --- After looking over a few DWC diaries using AN nutes, seems like my solution strength is still too low. Most around this stage average around 500 PPMs with about 4ml per gallon. --- Top fed for a minute to wet the top of the hydroton. --- Solution strength went down to 263 PPM. --- Added 8ml more of Sensi A --- Added 8ml more of Sensi B --- Now base nutes are at 16ml for 4.5 gal of water. --- PPMs went up to 411. --- Still lower than 500 PPMs, but that's okay. --- PH was at 6. Not sure if I should adjust PH using AN nutes. So going to not ajdust unless PH goes above 6.1. Day 03 - Wednesday - 08/12/20 - Total Days: 010 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Looks like more root growth! --- She still looks yellow. But leaves are perky. --- PH was at 6.2 so lowered down to 5.8. --- Solution strength was at 394 PPMs --- Since roots are still growing, I decide to lower the water level a bit. Now water level is a bit below the net pot. - [2200]: Root is getting longer! --- Slime is returning. Not sure why. --- Solution strength: 357 PPMs --- PH: 6.1 --- Decided to add an enzyme along with more beneficial bacteria to hopefully cure the slime. --- Added 16ml of Sensizym --- Added 5ml of Hydroguard --- Added 8ml of Voodoo Juice --- New solution strength: 430 PPMs --- New PH: 6.1 --- Top fed for a minute. --- This slimy residue is really freaking me out! I hope the added enzymes will help eliminate the slime. --- Going to do a full reservoir sterilization/nutrient change over the weekend. Please survive until then girl! Day 04 - Thursday - 08/13/20 - Total Days: 011 ----------------------------------- - [0930]: I think the enzymes worked! There is little to no slime now! --- Although I think the root was also dissolved in the process. It's now just a little stub sticking just below the net pot. The enzyme is also suppose to dissolved dead roots too but guess that root was too weak? Not sure what happened there. But I think the slime is cured! --- Solution strength went down to 395 PPMs. Decided to add more base nutrients. --- Added 8ml of Sensi A --- Added 8ml of Sensi B --- Added 4ml of B-52 --- Solution strength went up to 598 PPMs. --- PH was at 6.1 --- As long as the PH is between 5.5 and 6.3, I'm not going to use PH Up or Down. But still will monitor PH levels. - [1715]: Checked up on her after her nap and shes looking alive but stunted. But no slime! --- Decided to add some sugars to help maintain the enzymes and beneficial bacteria. --- Solution strength was at 587 PPMs. --- PH was at 6.2 --- Added 8ml of Bud Candy --- Solution strength went up to 671 PPMs. --- PH also went up to 6.3 --- Lowered water level a bit to hopefully promote more root growth. --- Top fed for a minute. --- She is getting bigger, but still looks yellow. Day 05 - Friday - 08/14/20 - Total Days: 012 ----------------------------------- - [0915]: Leaves look a little burnt on the tips. Still no slime. --- Going to back off on the PPMs to hopefully fix the nutrient toxicity. --- Solution strength was at 632 PPMs --- PH was at 6.3 --- Added/Removed water until PPMs were at 536. --- PH was still at 6.3 --- Raised water up a bit, then top fed for a minute. - [2200]: Looking better. Still yellow though. --- Solution strength: 514 PPMs --- PH: 6.5 --- Added PH down. --- New solution strength: 518 PPMs --- New PH: 5.2 --- PH was kind of high. So decided to PH down. Had to use quite a bit to bring it down. But eventually got it to drop down to 5.3. A little low, but so far, the PH has always gone up so wanted to start it really low. --- Ran the top feed for a minute to re-saturate the top of the hydroton. Day 06 - Saturday - 08/15/20 - Total Days: 013 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: She looks stunted. leaves are still yellow. --- Solution strength: 514 PPMs --- PH: 5.6 --- Top fed for a minute. --- Not sure what to do at this point. Going to do another reservoir change soon. Hoping she lives until then. - [2145]: Looking pretty much the same. --- A bit of slime has returned. Since I've been diluting the nutrient solution, the enzyme ratio has dropped. So I guess this is expected. --- Also noticed that slime build up was on the air-stones. Never really checked the stones so not sure how long that has been there. Looks brown too, which can't be good. --- Going to do an H202 sterilization of the system (minus the net pot) tomorrow so did not add anything. --- Lowered the water level to below the net pot. --- Then top fed for a minute. Day 07 - Sunday - 08/16/20 - Total Days: 014 ----------------------------------- - [0900]: STERILIZATION DAY! --- Decided to skip today's night cycle for a deep clean. --- I'm hoping that skipping a night cycle won't be too stressful. --- Temporarily moved her to a new bucket. --- Used about a half of gallon of straight distilled water to flush out the net pot. --- Drained the system and wiped up all the brown sludge. Also removed the air stones and cleaned up all the goo. --- Filled the system with 2 gallons of distilled water and at least 30ml of food grade hydrogen peroxide (35% strength). --- Yea its a lot, but since I'm not going to sterilize the system overnight, I went with a really high doseage. Basically I kept adding until I started to see little bubbles start to form. --- Then I ran the water pump. - [0915]: Boiled the air stones in tap water for about 10 min. Then reconnected them to the airlines. --- I let the air stones and hose soak in the sterilization solution for about 5 minutes so the peroxide can absorb into the stones. Then ran the air stone to help mix and agitate the solution. --- Occasionally, I'd repeat the process of turning the air pump off for a few minutes to let the stones soak. - [1000]: Covered the top two row of holes of the net pot with some aluminum tape. Hopefully this solves the light leaking in through the hydroton. - [1200]: Used an old toothbrush and scrubbed the pump clean. Then drained the system. --- Refilled with more distilled water and peroxide. Again added a lot. --- Ran system again to sterilize even more. - [1530]: Drained the system and refilled with distilled water to rinse. --- Ran the system for a few minutes, then drained and rinsed again. --- Did this a few more times over about an hour. - [1630]: Added 4 gallons of fresh distilled water. --- Added 15ml Sensi Grow A --- Added 15ml Sensi Grow B --- Added 12ml of B-52 --- Added 16ml of Voodoo Juice --- Added 16ml Sensizym --- Solution strength was at 430 PPMs --- PH was at 5.6 --- I was going to add Hydroguard, but I think the bottle is expired. Since 2017 or 2018!? I think Hydroguard is good for up to 2 years from the date on the bottle or 6 months after opening. So not going to use from now on. I wonder if this could have contributed to the slime build up. --- Also removed the CaliMagic and Superthrive too. Going to only use AN products to eliminate the chance of incompatible nutrients. --- Placed her back in the bucket and top fed for a minute. --- Here's hoping for the best. Going to let it ride until morning! Please feel better! [END OF WEEK 02]

Hey fellow green thumbs! 🌿💚 The day has finally come—our Auto Northern Dragon Fuel from Super Sativa Seed Club has been harvested! After an exciting journey, we’re thrilled to share the details of this incredible plant’s final stage. Let’s dive into the harvest report! 🌟 Harvest Details: Day 75: Harvest Day • Harvest Date: Day 75 • Harvest Method: Our beautiful Auto Northern Dragon Fuel was harvested yesterday. After weeks of careful nurturing, the time was right to bring in this amazing plant. 🌿🌼 • Preparation: Before hanging, we meticulously cleaned the plant, removing all leaves without trichomes to ensure a smooth drying process and to enhance the quality of the final product. 🌿✂️ Current Drying Process: • Method: The entire plant is now hanging upside down to dry. This method helps maintain moisture levels within the buds, allowing for a slower and more even drying process. 🌿🔄 • Environment: • Temperature: 18-22°C (65-72°F) • Humidity: 50-60% Maintaining these conditions is crucial for achieving a perfect dry and preserving the plant’s aromatic and flavorful profile. 🌡️💧 🌟 Plant and Bud Characteristics: Auto Northern Dragon Fuel: • Bud Structure: Dense and sticky, with an impressive trichome coverage. The buds are beautifully formed, showcasing the robust genetics of this strain. • Aroma: Even in the drying phase, the rich and potent aroma is unmistakable. Expect a delightful scent that hints at the powerful experience to come. • Trichomes: A thick layer of trichomes covers the buds, promising a potent final product with a great flavor profile. 🌿✨ 🌟 Care Tips: • Drying Process: Patience is key. Allowing the plant to dry slowly will enhance the final quality, preserving both flavor and potency. Ensure good airflow around the hanging plant to prevent mold and mildew. 🌬️💧 • Trimming: Once the drying process is complete (typically 10-14 days), it will be time to trim the buds. This is where we’ll shape the final product and get it ready for curing. ✂️🌿 • Curing: After trimming, curing the buds in jars for at least 2-4 weeks will further enhance the flavor and smoothness. This final step is essential for achieving the best possible smoking experience. 🍁 🌟 Genetics Spotlight: Auto Northern Dragon Fuel: • Characteristics: Known for its robust structure and dense buds, this strain has shown remarkable resilience and impressive bud development throughout the grow. The final product promises to be potent and flavorful, thanks to the thick trichome coverage and rich aroma. • Harvest Expectations: High-quality buds with a strong aroma and potent effects. The slow drying process will ensure the best possible preservation of cannabinoids and terpenes. 🌍🌿 Fun Fact: Did you know? 🌿✨ Drying the entire plant slowly helps retain more terpenes, which are responsible for the plant’s aroma and flavor. This method also helps preserve the potency and quality of the buds, resulting in a smoother and more enjoyable experience. For all the in-depth action and detailed explanations, head over to my YouTube channel! 🎥✨ I’m sharing all the tips, tricks, and step-by-step guides to help you get the best results from your grow. This week’s harvest has been particularly exciting, and there’s so much more to explore and learn together! 👉 Join me on YouTube Link in my profile 👈 🌟 Conclusion: Harvesting Auto Northern Dragon Fuel at Day 75 has been a rewarding experience. With the plant now drying, we’re eagerly awaiting the final product. Stay tuned for updates on the drying, trimming, and curing process, and get ready for a high-quality harvest! Happy growing, and see you next time! 🌿💚✨ #SuperSativaSeedClub #HarvestReport #NorthernDragonFuel #PlantMagic #GardeningJoy #NatureLovers #PlantPower #InspireGrow #YouTubeJourney

09/06 - DAY 43 - Slight yellowing and spotting on a few of Mo’s older fan leaves, thinking Mag deficiency. Everyday more and more trichomes coming in. - Forcing Jane to open up by pulling her out. 09/08 - DAY 45 - Top dressed Mo w/ Worm Castings & Kashi Blend. Can see feeder roots everywhere under the cover, worms are active, and she’s sucking dry her reservoir every 1.5 days. - Lowered light to 500-560PPFD at canopy. Humidity ~58%. - Jane is starting to share her strawberry aromas. Mo smells like a sweet sugary treat 09/11 - DAY 48 - Switched over to only blooming/fruiting inoculants & top watered w/ compost tea. Hopefully get ahead of any deficiencies. - Mo is starting to drink 2 Gal in less than a day, along with the weekly top waterings. Thirsty girl 😃

Got 6 autos going at 3 different stages, kulled the rs11 as it was very bad genetics, cheese, sweet critical, Orion f1. Watermelon z, white widow and northern lights

Elsker hende mere og mere for hverdag der går fuldstændig gennem klistret af de smukkeste tricomer hun er færdig om nok 3-5 uger så tør ikke tænke på hvordan hun kommer tim at se ud med de tricommer allerede de må jo drysse af nærmest

Pictures are day 23 above soil I dropped temp set point on INKBIRD ITC-308 to 23C and narrowed range to 1C high and 1C low. The humidity was getting too high before the 25-26C max temp point kicked in and exhaust would vent. Mositure build up at bottom of tent was main issue as temps outside the tent are -2 to -10C. So the air closest to tent walls rapidly cools and moisture condenses out. VPD..... cold climate growing. Shed growing.

Ha empezado a florecer poco a poco, día 2 semana 2 de floración.

She's getting closer to the end. More orange pistils. Still a few weeks away though.

Bienvenidos cultivadores de marihuana clandestinos y también a los que tienen la fortuna de no serlo!🖐️👨‍🌾👍 Este es un diario donde semanalmente explico algunas de mis técnicas de cultivo y preparados orgánicos, los cuales llevo experimentando dos años en cultivos de marihuana interior. • Hay dos componentes absolutamente necesarios para cualquier cultivo y de los que no se puede prescindir: La luz y el agua... hoy toca hablar de agua, homenajear al agua que la montaña y el cielo me regalan para mis plantas de marihuana!! 💧💧💧 Tengo que decir, que hasta el momento, nunca he usado agua con cloro en mis cultivos, mi interés por el agua pura de manantial ya venía de antes, pues yo mismo la consumo habitualmente, el cloro es añadido al agua corriente para hacerla potable y acabar con posibles bacterias o patógenos, pero no distingue entre buenos y malos. Siempre he creído que el consumo de agua pura, ayuda a mantener la micro biota de nuestro sistema digestivo, os podría hablar de las ventajas palpables, pero voy a obviar comentarios escatológicos. En el caso de mi modo de cultivo, donde baso toda mi técnica en el mantenimiento e inoculación masiva de Microorganismos de Montaña (MM) en el sustrato, el uso de agua pura sin cloro es obligado. El 03 de julio de 2020, publiqué lo siguiente: GROWING TIP: Agua!! Mineralizada, viva y estructurada. La importancia de la calidad del agua para el cultivo es vital para mi, he recorrido los manantiales, ríos y arroyos de mi zona con el medidor de EC y el de PH para conocer las aguas que me rodean, recojo siempre que hay oportunidad agua de lluvia de la terraza de un vecino, nunca me falta agua pura, desecho regar con agua del grifo. Para mi, y actualmente, la mejor mezcla de agua que puedo ofrecer a mis plantas es agua de lluvia 75% con otra de un manantial de montaña de agua alcalina (Carbonato cálcico PH: 9.2) y muy mineralizada (EC: 0.85), esta agua yo mismo la consumo regularmente, consigo una mezcla de agua pura con un EC alrededor de 0.19, me garantizo así el aporte de calcio y otros minerales. En épocas donde no llueve uso agua pura de manantiales y arroyos con EC de 0.3. Estas aguas las filtro y almaceno a obscuras en mi casa, la cuestión es que el agua parada pierde oxígeno y también desordena su estructura molecular haciéndola caótica. Para poder recuperar esta estructura y oxigenación, el agua debe estar en movimiento como en la naturaleza, yo me ayudo de un agitador magnético para volver a tener agua viva, el agitador crea un vórtice implosivo que en 10 minutos pone las cosas en su sitio y carga de oxígeno nuestra agua, una vez hecho este proceso voy añadiendo los nutrientes uno a uno y sigo agitando hasta el final. El agua tratada con esta técnica, mejora la asimilación de nutrientes porque favorece el intercambio catiónico e inunda de oxígeno nuestro sustrato y raíces, también con esta técnica se pueden bajar las concentraciones normales de EC en un 30% y conseguir los mismos resultados, prueba y verás!! ------ Hoy tengo algunos comentarios nuevos sobre los diferentes tipos de agua que uso y usé. - Agua de río: Comencé recogiendo agua de los dos ríos caudalosos que cruzan mi pueblo, buena agua, no hay industrias en su cauce, pero sin embargo las aguas fecales de los pueblos acaban en él. Por lo que, ante la duda, deseche el uso de este tipo de agua. - Agua de lluvia: Como comenté antes, recogía agua de lluvia desde el desagüe de la terraza de un vecino (PH: 7, EC: 0.07), mucho trabajo, exposición vecinal y explicaciones surrealistas a los transeúntes que me preguntaban, como decir que recogía el agua para mi perro que no podía tomar agua con minerales por tener tendencia a la formación de piedras en la vejiga, en otras ocasiones, respondía con entusiasmo que era la mejor agua para cocinar alubias!! 🤷‍♂️😎 Definitivamente dejé de recoger agua de lluvia de ese lugar, pues el agua que explico a continuación ya viene con los niveles de EC que yo busco... - Agua de montaña: Manantial permanente a 700m de altitud, el PH varía según la época del año, cuando en otoño, invierno y primavera hay más lluvia, el PH está en 7, y el EC en 0.25, en verano el PH sube a 8 y el EC a 0,5, esto es debido a que la carga de minerales es mayor cuando no hay lluvias. Según la geología de la zona, rocas cálcicas, arcillas y basalto principalmente, este agua mineral contiene suficiente mineral (Ca, Mg, Si, Al, Fe, K...) para no tener necesidad de usar aditivos como CalMag. Esta, es el agua que más uso para riegos. - Agua de manantial alcalino: Casi a nivel del mar, muy mineralizada, con menos variación de PH y EC en épocas de lluvia: PH entre 8 y 9.2, EC entre 0.5 y 0.9. Esta agua la uso de varias maneras: a) Es el agua que yo bebo. b) El café y la comida la hago con esta agua. c) Por su nivel de alcalinidad la uso para los diferentes fermentados anaeróbicos, compensa la extrema acidez de estos preparados y aporta minerales ya solubilizados. d) Este invierno la he usado para riegos mezclada con agua de des-humificador al 50%, obteniendo agua con un EC de 0,25. e) Las raras ocasiones en que riego sólo con agua, uso ésta si el cultivo va bien, y si necesitara hacer un lavado de sustrato por sobre fertilización, uso el agua de des humificador: PH: 7, EC: 0.09, que al no contener minerales el poder de disolución es mayor. - Agua de des humificador: Este invierno debido a las bajas temperaturas, alta humedad relativa y aparición de oídio, me vi obligado a tener funcionando permanentemente un des humificador, y para hacer de la necesidad virtud, he estado recogiendo esta agua exenta de minerales, mezclándola al 50% con las aguas del manantial alcalino, de esta manera me he he ahorrado algunos viajes al manantial de montaña. Recientemente medí el consumo de este aparato, y casi me caigo de espaldas al comprobar un consumo de 140w, lo he tenido encendido más de 3 meses las 24h del día y en ocasiones he tenido funcionando dos des humificadores! y yo, engañosamente, pensé que no consumían más de 50w... bueno, después del disgusto de saber el despilfarro de vatios, yo, que me he esforzado mucho en los últimos cultivos, acarreando macetas del interior al exterior, por consumir el mínimo de luz eléctrica y que me ha supuesto obtener unas cosechas medio bajas para lo que estaba costumbrado, ahora, en mis nuevos 4 cultivos la luz no va a ser el obstáculo, ya que ahora los des humificadores están guardados, y voy a alumbrar estas plantas con todo lo que me quepa en la carpa, la media de vatios por planta de mi última temporada de cultivos fue de 40w/planta, esta temporada voy a llegar a los 100w por planta... más luz es igual a más masa floral!!🌲🌲🌲🌲 - Agua de mar (for nerds): Yo no me he atrevido a usarla para riegos, pero con el agua de mar preparo Ormus casero con agua del mar Cantábrico, donde separo el sodio y hago precipitar los minerales: Publicado el 10 de julio de 2020 a) Fuente principalmente de Magnesio, Azufre y calcio para todo el cultivo. El Ormus contiene de un 30 al 60% de magnesio. Yo lo uso sistemáticamente en todos mis riegos, las dosis van desde el 1% al 2%. b) Contiene más de 70 minerales, la mayoría en modo monoatómico que mejora el intercambio catiónico y la asimilación de nutrientes. c) Al ser un producto alcalino se puede usar para subir el PH del riego cuando se necesite. Aumenta muy poco la carga de EC. d) Forma parte de mis componentes en la solución acuosa que preparo para germinación y establecimiento de semillas. e) Almacenado a obscuras el producto no tiene caducidad conocida. • Agua de coco (for nerds). Producto natural rico en azúcares, vitaminas, proteínas y aminoácidos, enzimas citocininas (División celular, crecimiento), ácido giberélico (Estimulación de raíces) y minerales (Ca, Fe, P, Mg). - Los momentos clave de más demanda de enzimas citocininas comienzan en la mitad de la primera etapa de germinación y establecimiento de la plántula, y al comienzo de la etapa de floración/reproducción. En la última etapa de los cultivos es innecesaria. - Los momentos clave del ácido Giberélico comienzan también en la primera mitad de la primera etapa de cultivo y las últimas semanas de crecimiento vegetativo, después de estas etapas la necesidad del ácido decae hasta hacerlo innecesario en las últimas semanas del cultivo. - Yo uso el agua de coco, alternándola con otros nutrientes, sólo en las primeras etapas de la planta y hasta la preflora. - Las dosis dependen de la carga de EC que se prefiera. Como mínimo aconsejo una carga en disolución de EC de 0,4 o PPM 200. - El agua de coco natural se debe guardar en el refrigerador, como máximo 4 días, pues fermenta con mucha facilidad. y esto es todo por hoy... tengo sed! 😁 Hasta la próxima semana... SALUDOS CULTIVADORES!!🖐️👨‍🌾💧💦🌞💡 =================================

Los dos fenos tienes cosas en común, pero el dos es sin duda más especial, me gusta más por los terpenos y la cantidad de resina y la calidad de esta. Otra para mi coleccion de madres.

Probably the smoothest week since the start, I think that this pheno is a light feeder compared to Strawberry Lemonade in DWC, still running EC at 0.9 max and they’re doing fine, will be increasing the EC in a few days time to around 1.2, last thing I want is lockout during the stretch! Roots are pretty darn big, the bottom right plant is growing well again now although she has probably lost a week or two on the rest of the pack, I’ll try to train plants close to her away so she can get a decent share of light. Flipping them to 12/12 today so the long march to harvest starts now. Dates on the time lapse are unfortunately the dates I uploaded to the app, not necessarily when the pic was taken, but it gives a good enough steer on progress and how long it has taken. Take care all!

Week 1 of flower everything looks great and green fed full strength Emerald Harvest full strength. A little bit of there terms are coming out now and they smell good already