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Hey ihr Lieben! Nach 10 Tagen Trocknung habe ich das Curing begonnen. Die Äste haben geknackt und mir signalisiert, dass sie bereit sind. Nach 5h Handarbeit war ich dann fertig. Mega anstrengend :P! Aber hat sich sehr gelohnt :). Trotz das ich dieses Mal anstatt mit mineralischem Dünger mit einem ein Komponenten-Dünger gedüngt habe (Hesi Bio-Bloom), habe ich sogar mehr herausbekommen... Bin sehr zufrieden :). Nach dem Curing habe ich das Material in die Terplocbags gepackt und lasse sie nun dort schön fermentieren - das hat letztes Mal sehr gut geklappt und kann ich nur empfehlen. Danke an alle die mich bei meinem 2ten Run begleitet haben, ihr seid die Besten! Mir hat es auch mega Spaß gemacht und ich freue mich schon darauf, meinen 3ten Run mit euch zu teilen - mehr Infos dazu kommen bald.
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Bueno ! Acá les dejo la última semana ! De nuestra hermosa planta ! Subiendo el corte y más adelante subiremos las flores curadas y secadas !! Logrando obtener una estructura de copa desde el día uno y teniendo una dura batalla sobre el mal control de la ec y teniendo excesos de minerales como os contaba en los diarios anteriores ! Logrando tener varias ramas con flores abundantes y sólidas no unas flores llenas de tricomas y un olor maravilloso ! Bueno dando a conocer la linda experiencia de este banco 🏦 lograremos seguir en este lindo proyecto!
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Somehow I miscalculated the days and started week 6 prematurely. I will just continue here thru to week 7 Day 32 From Seed NYD#2 Started LST. Pot was light, watered at 6.3 including Fish Sh!t. NYD#3 The pony tail backfired. The main is mangled. Despite small nodes, I started LST and watered at 6.3 including Fish Sh!t. Day 33 From Seed Did some research and found out the ponytail should only be used during the light cycle and removed for the dark period. I left it on, which caused the ugly. Lesson learned! Day34 Adjusted and added LST. Watered #2 at 6.5. #3 was still heavy, no water needed. Day 37 Watered, adjusted LST Day 39 From Seed Watered, adjusted LST. Found a bug that isn't a fungus gnats (NYD#3). Inspected both plants for more. Did a neem oil top drench and added Vicks Vapor Rub to the pot rims (bug deterrent). So raised light roughly 4 inches. Day 41 Light watering, adjusted LST ties, top drenched with Neem Oil. Added a few ounces of peroxide to the humidifier. They'll both need a top dress soon.
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Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.
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Day 71 - Starting week 11 off with a bang and love the look and smell of this girl. She’s really starting to fatten up and and need her to start filling in more. Thinking about 2-3 weeks max before she’s ready to chop and looking forward to it. Gave her the first of her week 11 feedings today and might cut her off to just water starting week 12. Day 72 - No big changes or updates. She’s fattening up and filling in beautifully. Will most likely start flushing after the end of this week. Day 73 - Gave her a second feeding today and next one will be Saturday. All is looking great and thinking she’s in track to be chopped at the end of week 13 but will keep and eye on her. Still some clear trichs but a lot of milky in there. She looks gorgeous! Day 75 - Looks great and on track for a chop at the end of week 13. Gave her the last feeding today and will water with straight water and Sledgehammer from here on out to start flushing her out. Day 76 - Closing in on the end of week 11 and she’s just as pretty as ever. Gave her some water today as she seemed to be screaming for it. Will probably do one more week of feedings then flush her with sledgehammer during week 13 and she should be ready for chopping. Day 77 - Ending week 11 and looks great. Have a few leaves showing deficiencies but not sure if it’s because she’s coming to the end of her life or somethings missing. Runoff pH was a little high so worked to correct that today, we’ll see if that helps. If not, she’s only got 2 weeks left.
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Harvest time for Do-si-dos round 2. The last 2 weeks of flowering and the week of flushing, lead to make growth in the size, density and weight of the buds. This plant has just blown my mind, compared to round 1. Will update in 7-14 days with dry weight and smoke test. Sept 8 - dry weight came in at 170 (minus about 5 grams) for smoke test. Very impressed with the final weight, bud quality, density and the unbelievably smooth smoke, that this Do-si-dos plant produced during round 2. I get so high off of one joint, I forget I even smoked one! This girl is definitely a keeper strain in my garden!
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@twenty20mendocino Ateam R&D Update ~ Let’s Go day 18 of 🌸almost 3 weeks in an we are looking great! Gave em another aggressive trim up some lollipops this week hopefully wasn’t too early but hey it’s we learn as growers, but they are bouncing back super nice, praying a looking happy y’all! Can’t wait to see what these girls do over the next few weeks, y’all have to keep them eyes peeled for next weeks update. Y’all have an amazing productive rest of your day as well as great rest of your week! Hope y’all enjoy, peace love an positive vibes to all y’all Cheers an blaze on 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨
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8/23 I WATERED THE NATURAL MK ULTRA AND THE 10TH PLANET IN THE BACK WITH A GALLON AND THE TWO TENS SPLIT A GALLON. It's hotter today and the wind is picking up. I wish I had gotten rid of that plant when I thought to. Oh well. I'm going to have to bite the bullet and treat things. Smell is increases as well as flower size. However I'm noticing more leaves that are yellowing and falling off. Smell has intensified. The special kush in late flower doesn't seem to be producing trichomes like it should. Or maybe it's still early. I see some but by this time I would think it would be frosty as hell! It's rained like once this summer. I've put tons of work into defoliating. I'm not sure if I'll try a controlled spray trying to avoid buds or if I should use a sponge and just hit every leaf. At least I'm seeing that the buds are still expanding and smelling despite these invisible Bastards. It's not like I see them. Even my traps only caught like one. I'll update as I go. EDIT: WATERED THE TENTH PLANET AND THE LATE SOECIAL KUSH 1 GAL. PLAN ON FEEDING TOMORROW. I DID A SHIT TON OF DEFOLIATION. I DONT SEE ADULT THRIPS BUT I SEE THE EGGS AND SHIT IN THE CREVICE AND SOMETHING IS COMING AND EARING SMALL LOWER FOLIAGE. I RIPPED TWO INTERIOR BRANCHES OFF THE PLANTS I TREATED BEFORE WITH CITRIC ACID BECAUSE I FOUND A COUPLE STOPS OF MOLD ON THE STEM. AFTER RESEARCHING THRIPS WITH A.I. UNTIL IT LITERALLY CHANGED PROTOVAL AND STOPPED HELPING ME SAYING IT DANT HELP CULT8VATE CANNABIS AFTER GIVING ME SEVERAL DIFFERENT INSTRUCTIONS AND OPTIONS. I SCREENSHOTTED THEM THOUGH. I USED THE SAME MIXTURE OF CITRIC ACID AMD DAWN ONLY HALF STRENGTH AND HIT THE 10TH PLANET AND PINK KUSH THAT ARE PATIENT ZERO. THEN I TOOK A SPONGE AND EITHER DEFOLIATED OR WIPED THE LEAVES WITH A SPONGE AND SAME CONCOTION ON THE SPECIAL KUSH IN THE TEN. I DEFOLIATED MORE AND THEN "SPOT TREATED" A FEW LEAVES ON A BOTTOM BRANCH OF THE 10TH PLANET WITH MITE X. I'M WAITING UNTIL THE MORNING TO SEE THE RESULTS AND BEFORE I MOVE FORWARD. I HAVE ORGANOCIDE BEE SAFE AND I KNOW IT WORKS GOOD BUT IT SMELLS LIKE SHIT. IM HOPING ILL FIGURE THIS OUT. 8/24 Didn't have time to do a video or take any pictures. I pit a lot of work in the garden yesterday. I removed a couple small branches that had mold on the stem. If I had listened to my intuition and moved that plant (instead of listening to my dad) I probably could've negated this mess. Windy as hell yesterday. Maybe that's why I don't see mich damage from the thrips. The runt in the 50 has some silver ingredients on it. I'm considering using spinosad. Those are way earlier in flower and that shit WORKS. WATERED TODAY;BIG MK ULTRA 1.5, THREE IN THE BACK ROW, CHEMDOG AND TENTH PLANET ALL GOT 1 GALLON. THE TWO TENS SPLIT A GALLON. I THEN FED EVERYTHING WITH A QUART OF FOOD. I'll keep an eye out on the dosage and see what the can handle. I left out plant doctor as I'm dealing with thrips. Took a leaf that looked like sep off the pink kush in the 50 with half used soil. I didn't have much time to look around but I will when I get back and I'll put some vids/pics up. The plants that I treated with citric acid looked no worse for the wear and actually BETTER than they hadcthe day before. The other 10th planet and the Pink kusg in the ten are the worst. If I can't beat it I may junk them. I'm planning on treatingvtge plants I didn't yesterday tonight. I may use a different treatment I'm not sure. EDIT: Went back over and took a few pics and a video. I defoliated a SHIT TON of leaves. I can just tell the ones that the thrips have been sucking and laying eggs. It's windy as hell. Plants are going crazy. I'm wondering if the wind will hurt the thrips. Maybe I should've just stood with the wind at my back and throw a buNch of D.E. in the air and have it coat the plants. I'm scared of using d.e. because it absorbs so much water. It's like 80%! The year I had fusarium I put a bunch of d.e. on the soil and it retained water like a mofo. The plants I treated showed no I'll effects. I'm th8nkobg I'm going to remove patient zero and isolate it. And I'm considering using spinosad on the pink kush. What would you do? If you had to use something in the middle of flower or loss your crop which would you choose? I'll probably just use citric acid or the rubbing alcohol. I don't know. I'll keep it updated. UPDATE: WENT OVER AROUND FIVE AND DEFOLIATED. I CHECKED THE PLANTS I TREATED AND THE ONE IN THE TEN HAD A FEW LEAVES THAT LOOKED LIKE SEP. ITS EXTREMELY WINDY SO I DECIDED AGAINST SPRAYING TONIGHT. I LOOKED ONLINE FOR PREDATORS BUT IT APPEARS TO BE TO LATE OR EXPENSIVE. I MAY LOOK FOR AN OVERNIGHT SHIPMEBT OF LOST COAST PLANT THERAPY OR SOMETHING BUT WILL THAT WORK SUBSTANTIALLY BETTER THAN A DIY VERSION? ILL EITHER ORDER SOMETHING TONIGHT OR PICK UP THE LAST FEW INGREDIENTS I NEED TOMORROW. LOOKING THROUGH THE GARDEN THOUGH EVERYTHING LOOKS GREAT! I WISH THE TRICOMES WOULD DEVELOP A LITTLE FASTER ON THE EARLY SPECIAL KUSH BUT IT IS WHAT IT IS. THESE GIRLS HAVE BEEN THROUGH HELL AND BACK ARE REAL TROOPERS. 8/25 I thought about putting the late flowering special kush in the barn because it looks cloudy and we are supposed to get rain. I chose to wait until I got back but it started raining already. It's not raining right now but it will probably start again. I'm just worried because I haven't staked the branches. It's a strong plant though. I'll check on her when I get back. I'm looking for some Castille soap this morning and the rest of the things to make a diy lost coast plant therapy. The plants look good though and the flowers are really stacking up. I don't see that silvery shit so it doesn't look like it's spreading real fast. The pink kush is in early flower and I'm considering spinosad for them. They have a long ways to go. I'm not sure. I may just use the diy spray. I'm not sure. EDIT: WENT OVER AFTER SUN DOWN AND MIXED UP THE DIY GREEN CLEANER/LCPT. I USED RUBBER GLOVES AND TREATED THE HUGE MK ULTRA, THE TWO TENS AND THE REVEG 10TH PLANET. I ONLY TREATED FOUR PLANTS. I HAD A PRETTY GOOD METHOD BUT IT WAS SLOW. I PUT THE LEAF BETWEEN MY GLOVED HAND AND SPRAYED THAN RAN THE LEAF THROUGH MY FINGERS TO AVOID FLOWER. ON PLANTS WITH SMALLER FLOWERS I WAS ABLE TO JUST FOLD THE LEAVES UPWARD AND GET THE BOTTOMS. ILL CHECK AND SEE HOW IT WORKED IN THE MORNING AND GO FROM THERE. WE GOT SOME GOOD RAIN TODAY. IM WORRIED ABOUT MOLD THOUGH. THATS WHY IM HESITANT TO SPRAY BUT SOME FLOWER IS BETTER THAN NONE. 8/26 IT POURED last night. Sheet rain. The storm had passed and it was like a 14% chance of rain at night. Oh well. The girls seemed to have loved it! The looked great this morning. I shook everything off and got soaked in the process. Inspected for damage and luckily didn't find any. I'm feeling optimistic about my diy green cleaner lcpt. I'm seriously considering spunosad on the pink kush as it's earlier in flower and I think it could handle it. I might just use this spray first and see how it goes. Buds are swelling and seem bigger everyday. I looked at some old diaries and I can see ive had thrips before. I also have some insect (ear wigs or pillars) that target lower branches and kinda lollipop them. I hope it's not earwigs because I've had bas luck dealing with them. I'll have to check at night.
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💩Holy Crap Growmies , we are outdoors and in the Ground and there Doing Great💩 👉It's been another full week 42 days from seed and she's doing great , very nice Growth, considering shes been up against the wind and rain 👈 No problems 😊 so far so good 👍And she's now in full on flowering 😁👈 DO TO THE AMOUNT OF RAIN , IVE ONLY BEEN ABLE TO TOP DRESS HER😎 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈 👉NutriNPK NUTRIENTS USED FOR FEEDING 👈rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉www.nutrinpk.com right now get 10% off using SPRING2022 as the coupon code👈
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Could have done a much better job overall but I'm pleased with it anyway as the plants produced some really nice smoke 🙌
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Floracion (Tiempo estimado 64 dias) Quinta Semana de Floracion 05/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se hace cambio de solucion nutritiva, con parametros ajustados a la semana, Se hace Lavado de cubetas, tuberias, bomba, humificador, y perifericos, Se realiza limpieza completa del indoor, Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos, el olor es mas penetrante pero gracias al filtro de carbono se mantiene fuera del indoor sin aroma, empiezan a observarse mas el crecimiento de los Cogollos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 06/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 07/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 08/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Realize por la mañana riego foliar con agua de osmosis sobre toda la planta, quedo empapada, al iniciar el ciclo de luz y verificar la planta se noto lama dentro del recipiente de la solucion y canastilla hidroponica por arriba y abajo de ella, La unica accion que realize fue quitar la malla de guia para que subieran los tallos y no se contaminaran, Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 09/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se realizo limpieza de la mold en el cubo hidroponico, acomode los aspersores de modo que el chorro de agua diera al mold, cambie la bomba de oxigeno, se nota un cambio por la tarde considerable, Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 10/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se observa mejoria considerable en las raices y el cubo hidroponico, Se limpia el prefiltro del extractor de 8 pulgadas, Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 11/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se nota una mejora considerable en la raiz y en el cubo de reserva, Parece haber desaparecido el moho, Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad.
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Good start to the week, of course it's only been the first day. Got the humidity up with a new humidifier and all has been great for a couple days. "Plant Success Revolution: Great White" Is in, so that'll be used once I repot as an inoculant as well as a root dusting. Depending on the growth of the plants over the next couple days to a week, I'll be repotting this week or next week sometime. Updates as they come; of course. - This prior week's timelapse will be up tomorrow. -2/23/2021 Gave a foliar spray of kelp extract right before lights out, the morning of 2/24 I noticed gray/white staining on the leaves where the droplets were. Will keep an eye on it. -2/24/2021 Carl 2 looks to be experiencing a deficiency, perhaps a nitrogen deficiency. Slight yellow mottling of the lower leaves. As with the spots, will keep my eye on it. -2/25/2021 Carl 2 is certainly experiencing what I believe is a nitrogen deficiency. Will be feeding properly next watering. -2/25/2021 Additionally, Carl 2 has definitely been helped by the kelp. It's almost the size of the plant that had been larger before and hadn't been sprayed with the kelp foliar. -2/26/2021 All plants were root drenched with some Great White Mycorrhizae - Should be fun too see how this plays out. The feed concentration in the "nutrients" section is NOT accurate. I put a light dusting into the sprayer. -2/28/2021 - Significant growth from all plants, seems the kelp and the GWM are doing their jobs.
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@Prof_Weed
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Just removed some leaves, da Gorilla is happy! 3 weeks left..
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She almost died before she shed her shell and now she the star of the tent..this is my first grow btw so I'm looking forward to my first harvest.