Now they are a bit bigger , this is the start of week 2 , now day 19 in real time from germination. I would appreciate any help to maximise the yield. I feed around 500-600 ppm. How much should the drain be ? I have to plants struggling, one had 500 run off , should I give nutes or flush them more ?

Metals in general reflect all of the light energy that comes onto them but copper doesn't reflect all of them. It absorbs part of the spectrum. It absorbs the blue part of the light and maybe some of the green light and reflects all the coppery colored light which comes back into our eyes. That's what happens with the metal. In compound copper sulfate, the blue color is due to the light energy being used to promote or excite electrons that are in the atom of the copper when it's combined with other things such as the sulfate or carbonate ions and so on. In solution what you actually have - in the same way when you dissolve salt in water you end up with sodium ions and chloride ions not bound together any longer as they are in the crystals but surrounded by water - the water interacts with the copper ions. The color that you see isn't really copper sulfate, it's copper ions surrounded by lots of water. The green pigment in leaves is chlorophyll, which absorbs red and blue light from sunlight. Therefore, the light the leaves reflect is diminished in red and blue and appears green. The molecules of chlorophyll are large (C55H70MgN4O6). They are not soluble in the aqueous solution that fills plant cells. Instead, they are attached to the membranes of disc-like structures, called chloroplasts, inside the cells. Chloroplasts are the site of photosynthesis, the process in which light energy is converted to chemical energy. In chloroplasts, the light absorbed by chlorophyll supplies the energy used by plants to transform carbon dioxide and water into oxygen and carbohydrates, which have a general formula of Cx(H2O)y. In this endothermic transformation, the energy of the light absorbed by chlorophyll is converted into chemical energy stored in carbohydrates (sugars and starches). This chemical energy drives the biochemical reactions that cause plants to grow, flower, and produce seed. Chlorophyll is not a very stable compound; bright sunlight causes it to decompose. To maintain the amount of chlorophyll in their leaves, plants continuously synthesize it. The synthesis of chlorophyll in plants requires sunlight and warm temperatures. Therefore, during summer chlorophyll is continuously broken down and regenerated in the leaves. Another pigment found in the leaves of many plants is carotene. Carotene absorbs blue-green and blue light. The light reflected from carotene appears yellow. Carotene is also a large molecule (C40H36) contained in the chloroplasts of many plants. When carotene and chlorophyll occur in the same leaf, together they remove red, blue-green, and blue light from sunlight that falls on the leaf. The light reflected by the leaf appears green. Carotene functions as an accessory absorber. The energy of the light absorbed by carotene is transferred to chlorophyll, which uses the energy in photosynthesis. Carotene is a much more stable compound than chlorophyll. Carotene persists in leaves even when chlorophyll has disappeared. When chlorophyll disappears from a leaf, the remaining carotene causes the leaf to appear yellow. A third pigment, or class of pigments, that occur in leaves are the anthocyanins. Anthocyanins absorb blue, blue-green, and green light. Therefore, the light reflected by leaves containing anthocyanins appears red. Unlike chlorophyll and carotene, anthocyanins are not attached to cell membranes but are dissolved in the cell sap. The color produced by these pigments is sensitive to the pH of the cell sap. If the sap is quite acidic, the pigments impart a bright red color; if the sap is less acidic, its color is more purple. Anthocyanin pigments are responsible for the red skin of ripe apples and the purple of ripe grapes. A reaction between sugars and certain proteins in cell sap forms anthocyanins. This reaction does not occur until the sugar concentration in the sap is quite high. The reaction also requires light, which is why apples often appear red on one side and green on the other; the red side was in the sun and the green side was in shade. During summer, the leaves are factories producing sugar from carbon dioxide and water using by the action of light on chlorophyll. Chlorophyll causes the leaves to appear green. (The leaves of some trees, such as birches and cottonwoods, also contain carotene; these leaves appear brighter green because carotene absorbs blue-green light.) Water and nutrients flow from the roots, through the branches, and into the leaves. Photosynthesis produces sugars that flow from the leaves to other tree parts where some of the chemical energy is used for growth and some is stored. The shortening days and cool nights of fall trigger changes in the tree. One of these changes is the growth of a corky membrane between the branch and the leaf stem. This membrane interferes with the flow of nutrients into the leaf. Because the nutrient flow is interrupted, the chlorophyll production in the leaf declines and the green leaf color fades. If the leaf contains carotene, as do the leaves of birch and hickory, it will change from green to bright yellow as the chlorophyll disappears. In some trees, as the sugar concentration in the leaf increases, the sugar reacts to form anthocyanins. These pigments cause the yellowing leaves to turn red. Red maples, red oaks, and sumac produce anthocyanins in abundance and display the brightest reds and purples in the fall landscape. The range and intensity of autumn colors is greatly influenced by the weather. Low temperatures destroy chlorophyll, and if they stay above freezing, promote the formation of anthocyanins. Bright sunshine also destroys chlorophyll and enhances anthocyanin production. Dry weather, by increasing sugar concentration, also increases the amount of anthocyanin. So the brightest autumn colors are produced when dry, sunny days are followed by cool, dry nights. The secret recipe. Nature knows best. Normally I'd keep a 10-degree swing between day and night but ripening will see the gap increase dramatically on this one. Anthocyanin color is highly pH-sensitive, turning red or pink in acidic conditions (pH 7) Acidic Conditions (pH 7): Anthocyanins tend to change to bluish or greenish colors, and in very alkaline solutions, they can become colorless as the pigment is reduced. The color changes are due to structural transformations of the anthocyanin molecule in response to pH changes, involving the protonation and deprotonation of phenolic groups. Anthocyanins, responsible for red, purple, and blue colors in plants, differ from other pigments like carotenoids and chlorophylls because their color changes with pH, making them unique pH indicators, while other pigments are more stable in color. Anthocyanins are a whole family of plant pigments. They are present in lilac, red, purple, violet or even black flower petals. Anthocyanins are also found in fruits and vegetables, as well as some leaves. Cold weather causes these purple pigments to absorb sunlight more intensely, which, in turn, raises the core temperature of the plant compared to that of the ambient air. This protects the plant from cold temperatures. In hot weather or at high altitudes, anthocyanins protect the plant cells by absorbing excessive ultraviolet radiation. Furthermore, a vivid petal coloration makes it easier for insects to find the flowers and pollinate them. Adding NaHSO4 (sodium hydrogen sulfate) to water increases the number of protons H+ in the solution. In other words, we increase the acidity of the medium because sodium hydrogen sulfate dissociates in water, or, in other words, it breaks down into individual ions: NaHSO4 → HSO4- + Na+ HSO4- SO42- + H+ In turn, the H+ protons react with the anthocyanin molecules transforming them from the neutral into cationic form. The cationic form of anthocyanins has a bright red color. The color of anthocyanins is determined by the concentration of hydrogen ions H+. When we add the sodium carbonate Na2CO3 solution, the H+ concentration drops. A decrease in the number of H+ causes a pigment color change, first to purple and then to blue and dark green. Anthocyanins are unstable in a basic environment, and so they gradually decompose. The decomposition process produces yellow-colored substances called chalcones. This process is quite slow, allowing us to track how a solution changes its color from blue to various shades of green and finally to yellow. The best petals would be brightly colored dark petals of red, purple, blue, or violet. You are particularly lucky if you can get your hands on almost black petals from either petunia, roses, irises, African violets, tulips, or lilies. These flowers contain a maximum concentration of anthocyanins. British scientist Robert Boyle (1627–1691) made a number of remarkable discoveries in chemistry. Interestingly, one of these discoveries involved the beautiful flowers known as violets. One day, Boyle brought a bouquet of violets to his laboratory. His assistant, who was performing an experiment at the time, accidentally splashed some hydrochloric acid on the flowers. Worried that the acid would harm the plants, the assistant moved to rinse them with water, but Boyle suddenly stopped him. The scientist’s attention was fixed on the violets. The places where acid had splashed the petals had turned from purple to red. Boyle was intrigued. “Would alkalis affect the petals, too?” he wondered and applied some alkali to a flower. This time the petals turned green! Experimenting with different plants, Boyle observed that some of them changed colors when exposed to acids and alkalis. He called these plants indicators. By the way, the violet color of the petals is produced by anthocyanins – pigments that absorb all light waves except violet. These vibrant pigments help attract bees, butterflies, and other pollinators, facilitating the flower’s reproduction. Anthocyanins are a type of flavonoid, a large class of plant pigments. They are derived from anthocyanidins by adding sugars. Sugars, particularly sucrose, are involved in signaling networks related to anthocyanin biosynthesis, and sucrose is a strong inducer of anthocyanin production in plants. Sugar-boron complexes, also known as sugar-borate esters (SBEs), are naturally occurring molecules where one or two sugar molecules are linked to a boron atom, and the most studied example is calcium fructoborate (CaFB). Boron is a micronutrient crucial for plant health, playing a key role in cell wall formation, sugar transport, and reproductive development, and can be deficient in certain soils, particularly well-drained sandy soils. Narrow Range: There's a small difference between the amount of boron plants need and the amount that causes toxicity. Soil concentrations greater than 3 ug/ml (3ppm) may indicate potential for toxicity. Anthocyanins, the pigments responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors in many fruits and vegetables, are formed when an anthocyanidin molecule is linked to a sugar molecule through a glycosidic bond. Glycosidic bonds are covalent linkages, specifically ether bonds, that connect carbohydrate molecules (saccharides) to other groups, including other carbohydrates, forming larger structures like disaccharides and polysaccharides. Formation: Glycosidic bonds are formed through a condensation reaction (dehydration synthesis) where a water molecule is removed, linking the hemiacetal or hemiketal group of one saccharide with the hydroxyl group of another molecule. Types: O-glycosidic bonds: The most common type, where the linkage involves an oxygen atom. N-glycosidic bonds: Less common, but important, where the linkage involves a nitrogen atom. Orientation: Glycosidic bonds can be alpha or beta, depending on the orientation of the anomeric carbon (C-1) of the sugar. Alpha (α): The hydroxyl group on the anomeric carbon is below the ring plane. Beta (β): The hydroxyl group on the anomeric carbon is above the ring plane. Disaccharides: Lactose (glucose + galactose), sucrose (glucose + fructose), and maltose (glucose + glucose) are examples of disaccharides linked by glycosidic bonds. Polysaccharides: Starch (amylose and amylopectin) and glycogen are polysaccharides formed by glycosidic linkages between glucose molecules. Significance: Glycosidic bonds are crucial for forming complex carbohydrates, which play vital roles in energy storage, structural support (like in cell walls), and as components of important biomolecules like glycoproteins and glycolipids.

5/17 Week 8 ... and the state of the grow is unsettled This grow has fought us since germ and it is showing no signs of giving in. Just cannot seem to find their "happy place" environmentally or nuet wise. They doing ok-ish this is not a big yielding strain no matter the ad copy but havent had this much issue with it indoors before. Starting at baseline with the lighting HID 300w 16 inches above Baba LED moved towards front of tent. Both lights tilted very slightly towards each other hopefully giving better dispersal. Still showing nitrogen sensitivity so reducing Bloom to 8ml/gal while increasing PK to 6 so PK does not suffer, will watch for deficiencies Looking at going considerably over on these now, nothing coming up behind them so zero space issues, see what happens. Continue to leaf pluck when one needs to go Evening feed 5/17: They look better and some experimenting with the lights showed me the angle tilt needed increasing and HID increased to 450w giving a total of 600w in the tent. Should not cause too much heat issue. Still have 150w in reserve 5/18 PM Pic of lights - Seems to be working out managing to cover base of tent with both lights giving a 5000k and 3000k spectrum. Buds building faster now in particular on Baba, Hadnt gotten sick we would have thought of this weeks ago, aint that inspired. Man this Cov-19 stuff will cloud your thinking. Keeping HID at 450w Pics of plants - doing better Nuets - Running low on Soul Peak so gradually working in the KoolBloom to make it last. Seriously think the Soul Peak is better. 5/18 TAHTA TA TAHHHH! Baba found her happy place and is bulking very fast. See how long it continues Re-did the lights Had to drop wattage on HID due to heat even after a redesign of the extraction to eliminate drag on air movement. For 14 hours they will run at 450 watts but for 6 hours a day will drop to 300 watts. This should keep any problems from occurring. Just hard to run that Metal Halide at more than 300 watts in warm weather without AC which aint happening. HID to 300/450 watts, 13 inches above Baba at a 20 degree tilt to disperse light. LED at full 17 inches above Athena with a 20 degree tilt. Coincidentally that puts them at the same height. Added a 30 watt 2700K LED on Baba and Athena give them some more red. See how it works. Nuets as is 5/20 Pics After viewing tricones beginning to walk down the EC to flush in a couple days. Plan 10 day flush. That puts them finishing about the middle of week 11. Not perfect but nothing so far with this grow has been lol Adding the 30 watt 2700K LED in the bottom seems to be helping, lot of increased lower growth WHICH I WILL TAKE ... 😬 Seriously every bud counts lol 5/21 Buds continuing to build at a decent rate finally. Had to re-arrange the tent my wife's plant is getting big Holding nuets where they are till flush, plan to begin flush during week 9. Working on a tactic to harvest Sally ahead of Jane without hurting either After a talk with her and looking seriously at what we have here I am going to break up the feeds. Athena will need to go into flush first she is furthest along. So start it on week 9. Sally ... we are going to do something unusual for her and Jane. Since flushing Sally per normal would be just no good for the twin Jane we are going to flush but then put the plants on organic bloom. So big initial flush with agent to clean out the salts then shifting her to light organics to continue feeding the twin without having to revisit the flushing issue. No idea how long the twin may go Baba will just play by ear on her, continue the light Bloom feeding keeping her PK up until we see the go signal from her. Hoping she goes a week longer than the others. 5/22 Lights to full weather is cool today and time is short Holding nuets here till new week then begin flush on Athena Buds still building nicely on Baba Almost forgot the twin: Here is the plan we flush the pot same time as Athena but on the next feeding we introduce organic bloom nuets for Jane instead of a flush as normal. We dont smoke so not overly concerned with harshness just want the pot clean. The organics will belay any further need of flushing. Best we can do 5/23 Need to start flush now so Athena and Sally on water only till I introduce organics to Sally. No agents Baba staying on feed

Very frosty and the buds are dense. She is starting her fade. I removed all the old leaves and moved her away from the fan. She is really bulky. The buds are so thick and heavy

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Das war es für sie melde mich in 3 Wochen mit einer Bewertung. Bis dann

Flowers are stacking well for all 3 strains, outlaw amnesia is very sensitive to over watering i find it tough because needing to water at different intervals. Been feeding them 1L of organic nutes and 2L water weekly. Watering in huge ammount is useful for me as the pot dries my humidity is able to drop to 39% with good air circulation.

Well, it's finally time for an update, right? And for a newbie like me this week has been quite eventful! 😲 After last week's "Helmet Head" (which I suppose was my fault for not burying the seed deep enough 😱) her leaves started to look twisty, Honestly don't know why that happened but my three hypothesis are: because that's just the way she is, because I didn't properly bury the seed or I made a mistake somewhere else. However I also think she looks pretty and this makes her look quite "special" 👍. In her 6-7th day after sprouting I noticed her leaves started to look even more twisty and she was about to outgrow her cup. I worried and decided that it was the right moment to transplant her. At first I didn't know "how" to do it and all I knew is that I could shock her if I did it wrong (which worried me haha 😨). None of the sites I checked really specified any kind of information regarding how I should prepare the medium for the new plant (just some vague information here and there) so I came with the idea to just water it bit and then "massage" the soil to avoid making it "lumpy" and I feel it did work out well in the end! I feel I didn't shock her much and in her second day she was growing even more as well! Nice! 😍 Next week I'll start feeding Puff with some nutrients but the PPM of the tap water where I live is somewhat high (around 600) and it's electroconductivity is around 1200 us/cm but a lot of growers in here still use it (they just wait for chlorine to evaporate) so I'll try doing the same. I'll use half dose of Biobizz Bio Grow and half dose of another product called Gold Sunshine from Quemanta (which is Cal-Mag with some amino acids) and see how things develop! 😃 I'll try to see if I can make my DSLR take the photos for future timelapses, because my webcam sucks for that job! Thanks everyone for reading 😉

(9th feb) So these girls are now entering week 5 and with small space comes challenges as these girls have really started too lift off growth wise as you can see 2 of the girls icc are tall and the remaining shorter girls are toronjaz all happy and healthy... still no defoliation I have chosen not too took these girls only a topping and leaf tuck here & there and wow they are loving life under aptus nutrients 🌱 They are thriving into this week where I will be tucking a few more leaves before flip in roughly a week or so time 🙏 Finally grow diaries has let me update with images and videos and I'll be updating my fastbuds diary tomorow too These girls are sailing through each week and I'm really happy using aptus nutrients I have topped 1/2 and all have responded great under aptus nutrients which I'm really loving using atm. These girls will have another 2 weeks untill flip too 12 hours light but these aptus fed girls I expect too boom in flower 😍😅 We shall deal with that issue when it arrives 🤣 Happy growing! 💚

my timer broke and put my whole tent into re-veg for a few days lucky i caught it in time to fix the plants before they hermie.... down side is it ruined my yield, i will update when buds dry but my guess is i got around 35 grams, smell is like the typical og kush smell, i got my timer issue fix and more divine og seeds i plan on growing it again with better grow conditions😀

DAY 23 Flower under VIPARSPECTRA P2000 with APTUSHOLLAND and they are loving both the light as the food and im loving the fact that they are loving it all 😆😆😆💚💚💚🙏🙏🙏 felling supper blessed with it all and with the fact that the universe allows me to take care of this sacret plant and grow my oun medicine 🙏🙏🙏💚💚💚🙌🙌🙌 special shout out to ZAMNEZIASEEDS for sending me this seeds for me to test, loving the quality on this genetics 🙌🙌🙌 , shout out to VIPARSPECTRA for sending me this LED for me to test and review, with his performance as been outstanding so far, seems like the perfect light for a 3x3 grow space , and a shout out to APTUSHOLLAND for the quality on the nutrients department, it truly is one last thing to worry wen you know by fact that what you feeding your girls is simple the best ( in my humble opinion, all i write here reflexes only my opinion and my experience 💚) I decided to take some leafs of them to help the airflow , but i will take more asap. One more week up weed go 😆💚 Day 24 and i defoliate them 😆😆😆💚💚💚 Growers love to you all , and as always thank you guys for reading my diaries , i truly appreciate your time , your love and it all 🙌🙌🙌 And with enormous honor and pleasure that i start collaborating with Zamnezia and Viparspectra For this run i will have the pleasure of growing some Runtz genetics from Zamnezia seeds that they wore kind enough to send me for test and review 🙏🙏🙏💚💚💚🙏🙏🙏 and for the testing and reviewing i was blessed with the VIPARSPECTRA model P2000💚💚💚🙏🙏🙏 they wore amazing and send me this LED light for me to do some testing and some reviews. Special thanks to Zamnezia and to Viparspectra for this opportunity, lets make magic together 💚💚💚🙏🙏🙏 All i grow is medicine for myself, for me and for my best friend with is me 😆 nothing to sell, so don’t even ask 😅💚💚💚 All info and full product details can be find in can find @ https://viparspectra.eu/collections/grow-lights DISCOUNT CODE 5% - DOGDOCTOR ( all store ) https://www.zamnesia.com DISCOUNT CODE 10% - GROWITGD ( just for seeds ) https://aptus-holland.com/ More info and updates @ https://growdiaries.com/grower/dogdoctor https://instagram.com/dogdoctorofficial https://youtube.com/channel/UCR7ta4DKLFMg2xxTMr2cpIg 💚💚💚Growers love to you all 💚💚💚

had an issue with ph right after transplant, not sure if water was off or soil had a surge. im thinking fish tank water ph was way low. issue corrected. Removed some leaves for structure and airflow. LST and FIM. See what it looks like next week.

Week 1 (16/03 - 22/03) D1: prepared a 14 liters pot with a layer of gravel at bottom surronded by light-mix soil by BioBizz. Given her a glass of tap water. At the moment she will stay in the living room near a window prior to move her outside on the balcony. D2: added a support to avoid drop, hoping it will be useless... Given her a glass of tap water in the morning, covered at night. D3: glass of tap water in the morning; out on the balcony in the afternoon for her first sunbath; inside for the night. D4: glass of tap water in the morning. Living room all day. D5: - D6: glass of tap water. D7: -

- I didn't weight wet buds. - The trichomes photos have been taken just before the harvest on buds all over the plant. - The hash ball was a little less than 1cm diameter. - Drying was made at 20°C and around 50% of humidity. - Humidity in jar around 50% on the first day, temperature around 20°C. Veg time : 53 days. Flowering time : 68 days. Total time from seed to harvest : 121 days. Height : 120cm Pot size : 26l

Finally it's flowering time! I've switched to 12/12. Gigi is starting to stretch, 7cm in a week, not bad. Day 57: Added Alga Bloom, Terpinator and a bit of powder kelp to the feeding solution. Day 59: Turned on the dehumidifier. I want more high temps and less humidity. Rh% is now 50/55. I'm lowering the ph of my nutrients solution to 6.1 Day 63: I see lot of buds points, very good 👍 if this genetic grows rock hard flowers like a real GG4, I think this plant will be amazing! I've rotated the plant position 180° and added a reflective mat under the vase. Next week I'll defoliate very well Gigi. It's time to see some beautiful buds.

Very good week. The new plants are 24 days old. That’s how they are supposed to look at that age! They will be much bigger plants than the others because all was dialed in for this new batch. With autos there can’t be anything off or they won’t really get to big (typically). The older plants 6-8 weeks old - will be excellent smoke still just not as big as they can get. Start of week 9. The smaller plants are 31 days old. All looking very very good. I upped the cal/mag The TD and LS will harvest in around 3weeks. I always run them close to 1-2 weeks past recommended. They really frost up and gain weight the last 2 weeks. Excited about the new plants. When they are dialed in I’ve gotten 3-7 Zips from each plant. Pretty amazing for soil grow. Hydro is faster in the beginning and sometimes the entire grow but soil when all on point can keep up with hydro (after a few weeks) and lots of time surpass hydro. Definitely in taste and terpenoids. Happy growing! Any comments appreciated. I love learning about this wonderful plant!

noto que estan comiendo mucho, osea se secan rápido que es que estan comiendo bastante de lo comun. Las ojas tornandose color amarillo para cambiar a color vino. se ven muy bonitas y estan fewlices. No he cambiado mucho entre los nutrientes (Té y Recharge), he sostenido alimentarlas simples y he tenido muy buenos resultados. muy contento con todo, sigas adelante, buenos humos y feliz 2021

DIVINE OG KUSH / DIVINE SEEDS WEEK #14 OVERALL WEEK #1 FLOWER This week she's doing good she was flipped to 12/12 transition week for her ready to see some buds on this lady!! Stay Growing!! Thank you for asking by and taking a look it's much appreciated!! THANK YOU DIVINE SEEDS!! BUDTRAINER.COM BUD CLIPS DIVINE OG KUSH / DIVINE SEEDS