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Metals in general reflect all of the light energy that comes onto them but copper doesn't reflect all of them. It absorbs part of the spectrum. It absorbs the blue part of the light and maybe some of the green light and reflects all the coppery colored light which comes back into our eyes. That's what happens with the metal. The green pigment in leaves is chlorophyll, which absorbs red and blue light from sunlight. Therefore, the light the leaves reflect is diminished in red and blue and appears green. The molecules of chlorophyll are large (C55H70MgN4O6). They are not soluble in the aqueous solution that fills plant cells. Instead, they are attached to the membranes of disc-like structures, called chloroplasts, inside the cells. Chloroplasts are the site of photosynthesis, the process in which light energy is converted to chemical energy. In chloroplasts, the light absorbed by chlorophyll supplies the energy used by plants to transform carbon dioxide and water into oxygen and carbohydrates, which have a general formula of Cx(H2O)y. In this endothermic transformation, the energy of the light absorbed by chlorophyll is converted into chemical energy stored in carbohydrates (sugars and starches). This chemical energy drives the biochemical reactions that cause plants to grow, flower, and produce seed. Chlorophyll is not a very stable compound; bright sunlight causes it to decompose. To maintain the amount of chlorophyll in their leaves, plants continuously synthesize it. The synthesis of chlorophyll in plants requires sunlight and warm temperatures. Therefore, during summer chlorophyll is continuously broken down and regenerated in the leaves. Another pigment found in the leaves of many plants is carotene. Carotene absorbs blue-green and blue light. The light reflected from carotene appears yellow. Carotene is also a large molecule (C40H36) contained in the chloroplasts of many plants. When carotene and chlorophyll occur in the same leaf, together they remove red, blue-green, and blue light from sunlight that falls on the leaf. The light reflected by the leaf appears green. Carotene functions as an accessory absorber. The energy of the light absorbed by carotene is transferred to chlorophyll, which uses the energy in photosynthesis. Carotene is a much more stable compound than chlorophyll. Carotene persists in leaves even when chlorophyll has disappeared. When chlorophyll disappears from a leaf, the remaining carotene causes the leaf to appear yellow. A third pigment, or class of pigments, that occur in leaves are the anthocyanins. Anthocyanins absorb blue, blue-green, and green light. Therefore, the light reflected by leaves containing anthocyanins appears red. Unlike chlorophyll and carotene, anthocyanins are not attached to cell membranes but are dissolved in the cell sap. The color produced by these pigments is sensitive to the pH of the cell sap. If the sap is quite acidic, the pigments impart a bright red color; if the sap is less acidic, its color is more purple. Anthocyanin pigments are responsible for the red skin of ripe apples and the purple of ripe grapes. A reaction between sugars and certain proteins in cell sap forms anthocyanins. This reaction does not occur until the sugar concentration in the sap is quite high. The reaction also requires light, which is why apples often appear red on one side and green on the other; the red side was in the sun and the green side was in shade. During summer, the leaves are factories producing sugar from carbon dioxide and water using by the action of light on chlorophyll. Chlorophyll causes the leaves to appear green. (The leaves of some trees, such as birches and cottonwoods, also contain carotene; these leaves appear brighter green because carotene absorbs blue-green light.) Water and nutrients flow from the roots, through the branches, and into the leaves. Photosynthesis produces sugars that flow from the leaves to other tree parts where some of the chemical energy is used for growth and some is stored. The shortening days and cool nights of fall trigger changes in the tree. One of these changes is the growth of a corky membrane between the branch and the leaf stem. This membrane interferes with the flow of nutrients into the leaf. Because the nutrient flow is interrupted, the chlorophyll production in the leaf declines and the green leaf color fades. If the leaf contains carotene, as do the leaves of birch and hickory, it will change from green to bright yellow as the chlorophyll disappears. In some trees, as the sugar concentration in the leaf increases, the sugar reacts to form anthocyanins. These pigments cause the yellowing leaves to turn red. Red maples, red oaks, and sumac produce anthocyanins in abundance and display the brightest reds and purples in the fall landscape. The range and intensity of autumn colors is greatly influenced by the weather. Low temperatures destroy chlorophyll, and if they stay above freezing, promote the formation of anthocyanins. Bright sunshine also destroys chlorophyll and enhances anthocyanin production. Dry weather, by increasing sugar concentration, also increases the amount of anthocyanin. So the brightest autumn colors are produced when dry, sunny days are followed by cool, dry nights. The secret recipe. Nature knows best. Normally I'd keep a 10-degree swing between day and night but ripening will see the gap increase dramatically on this one. Anthocyanin color is highly pH-sensitive, turning red or pink in acidic conditions (pH 7) Acidic Conditions (pH 7): Anthocyanins tend to change to bluish or greenish colors, and in very alkaline solutions, they can become colorless as the pigment is reduced. The color changes are due to structural transformations of the anthocyanin molecule in response to pH changes, involving the protonation and deprotonation of phenolic groups. Anthocyanins, responsible for red, purple, and blue colors in plants, differ from other pigments like carotenoids and chlorophylls because their color changes with pH, making them unique pH indicators, while other pigments are more stable in color. Anthocyanins are a whole family of plant pigments. They are present in lilac, red, purple, violet or even black flower petals. Anthocyanins are also found in fruits and vegetables, as well as some leaves. Cold weather causes these purple pigments to absorb sunlight more intensely, which, in turn, raises the core temperature of the plant compared to that of the ambient air. This protects the plant from cold temperatures. In hot weather or at high altitudes, anthocyanins protect the plant cells by absorbing excessive ultraviolet radiation. Furthermore, a vivid petal coloration makes it easier for insects to find the flowers and pollinate them. Adding NaHSO4 (sodium hydrogen sulfate) to water increases the number of protons H+ in the solution. In other words, we increase the acidity of the medium because sodium hydrogen sulfate dissociates in water, or, in other words, it breaks down into individual ions: NaHSO4 → HSO4- + Na+ HSO4- SO42- + H+ In turn, the H+ protons react with the anthocyanin molecules transforming them from the neutral into cationic form. The cationic form of anthocyanins has a bright red color. The color of anthocyanins is determined by the concentration of hydrogen ions H+. When we add the sodium carbonate Na2CO3 solution, the H+ concentration drops. A decrease in the number of H+ causes a pigment color change, first to purple and then to blue and dark green. Anthocyanins are unstable in a basic environment, and so they gradually decompose. The decomposition process produces yellow-colored substances called chalcones. This process is quite slow, allowing us to track how a solution changes its color from blue to various shades of green and finally to yellow. The best petals would be brightly colored dark petals of red, purple, blue, or violet. You are particularly lucky if you can get your hands on almost black petals from either petunia, roses, irises, African violets, tulips, or lilies. These flowers contain a maximum concentration of anthocyanins. British scientist Robert Boyle (1627–1691) made a number of remarkable discoveries in chemistry. Interestingly, one of these discoveries involved the beautiful flowers known as violets. One day, Boyle brought a bouquet of violets to his laboratory. His assistant, who was performing an experiment at the time, accidentally splashed some hydrochloric acid on the flowers. Worried that the acid would harm the plants, the assistant moved to rinse them with water, but Boyle suddenly stopped him. The scientist’s attention was fixed on the violets. The places where acid had splashed the petals had turned from purple to red. Boyle was intrigued. “Would alkalis affect the petals, too?” he wondered and applied some alkali to a flower. This time the petals turned green! Experimenting with different plants, Boyle observed that some of them changed colors when exposed to acids and alkalis. He called these plants indicators. By the way, the violet color of the petals is produced by anthocyanins – pigments that absorb all light waves except violet. These vibrant pigments help attract bees, butterflies, and other pollinators, facilitating the flower’s reproduction. Anthocyanins are a type of flavonoid, a large class of plant pigments. They are derived from anthocyanidins by adding sugars. Sugars, particularly sucrose, are involved in signaling networks related to anthocyanin biosynthesis, and sucrose is a strong inducer of anthocyanin production in plants. Sugar-boron complexes, also known as sugar-borate esters (SBEs), are naturally occurring molecules where one or two sugar molecules are linked to a boron atom, and the most studied example is calcium fructoborate (CaFB). Boron is a micronutrient crucial for plant health, playing a key role in cell wall formation, sugar transport, and reproductive development, and can be deficient in certain soils, particularly well-drained sandy soils. Narrow Range: There's a small difference between the amount of boron plants need and the amount that causes toxicity. Soil concentrations greater than 3 ug/ml (3ppm) may indicate potential for toxicity. Anthocyanins, the pigments responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors in many fruits and vegetables, are formed when an anthocyanidin molecule is linked to a sugar molecule through a glycosidic bond. Glycosidic bonds are covalent linkages, specifically ether bonds, that connect carbohydrate molecules (saccharides) to other groups, including other carbohydrates, forming larger structures like disaccharides and polysaccharides. Formation: Glycosidic bonds are formed through a condensation reaction (dehydration synthesis) where a water molecule is removed, linking the hemiacetal or hemiketal group of one saccharide with the hydroxyl group of another molecule. Types: O-glycosidic bonds: The most common type, where the linkage involves an oxygen atom. N-glycosidic bonds: Less common, but important, where the linkage involves a nitrogen atom. Orientation: Glycosidic bonds can be alpha or beta, depending on the orientation of the anomeric carbon (C-1) of the sugar. Alpha (α): The hydroxyl group on the anomeric carbon is below the ring plane. Beta (β): The hydroxyl group on the anomeric carbon is above the ring plane. Disaccharides: Lactose (glucose + galactose), sucrose (glucose + fructose), and maltose (glucose + glucose) are examples of disaccharides linked by glycosidic bonds. Polysaccharides: Starch (amylose and amylopectin) and glycogen are polysaccharides formed by glycosidic linkages between glucose molecules. Significance: Glycosidic bonds are crucial for forming complex carbohydrates, which play vital roles in energy storage, structural support (like in cell walls), and as components of important biomolecules like glycoproteins and glycolipids.
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We are at day 21 on this Cali snow and she is doing well. Takes training great and she hit a nice growth spurt at the beginning of the week. The girls are getting crowded but the setup is running like a well oiled machine. I will have to get them spread further apart somehow and they will be going under the QB lights soon. If I can keep the momentum going as smooth as it has been we might just get some late summer snow! Happy growing everyone.
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@m0use
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SPONSORED DIARY===SPONSORED DIARY===SPONSORED DIARY So I was grossly overfeeding these little ones and just did not have the time to correct it. I went back and looked at my runoff and it was quite high. maxing out my TDS meter. I flushed em all with lots of liquid and now they all apear to be finishing up majority of the pistils where browning and whatnot. Will let me got for another week or so I think and no more feed just water. There is still some stuff remaining in the soil I got it down to 0.8ec from 4.0+ This grow has suffered some loss from it all but that's ok it was just for shits and giggles and the buds it producing are still nice looking. I also took the saved pollen out of the fridge from my Dinamed CBD Kush Auto Breeding Project - DCKABP lol, and I pollinated one branch on this plant. I marked it with a little red string to see if it would work or not. This was done last week when I missed its weekly entry. and to my surprise I now have a few swollen calyx on my GDP plant. I have no idea how fertile the pollen was as I mixed a lot of it with dried cornstarch and it seemed to do the trick for saving it. Now that I know this I will try this method again in the future and try and freeze the pollen for longer storage times. SPONSORED DIARY===SPONSORED DIARY===SPONSORED DIARY Big shout out to @SpiderFarmer for supplying the 2x2x5 Grow tent and The SF1000 100w LED light. I will be uploading all relevant photos of the products in the next week when they arrive, maybe do a little unboxing video. Who knows. A 2nd big shout out to Dr.Seeds for supplying the 3x5pac of seeds I will only be featuring two of the three strains in two separate diaries. You the users will get to decide what ones I grow. I have setup a Grow Question on each diary to vote for your strain of choice for that diary. https://growdiaries.com/grow-questions/47600-drseeds-1-vote-what-i-grow "Diary #1" https://growdiaries.com/grow-questions/47600-drseeds-1-vote-what-i-grow "Diary #2" Cast your vote for each diary. Thought I would add in the relevant links if you wanted to read up on any of the products that will be officially featured in this grow. https://www.spider-farmer.com/ https://growdiaries.com/grow-lights/spider-farmer (+) https://www.spider-farmer.com/products/sf-1000-led-grow-light/ https://growdiaries.com/grow-tents/spider-farmer (+) https://www.spider-farmer.com/products/sf-2-x2-indoor-grow-tent-hydroponic-home-plant-reflective-aluminum-oxford-cloth/ https://drseeds.net/ https://growdiaries.com/seedbank/dr-seeds (+) https://drseeds.net/product/granddaddy-purple-autoflowering-cannabis-seeds/ (+) https://growdiaries.com/seedbank/dr-seeds/granddaddy-purple [Photoperiod not Autoflowering] https://drseeds.net/product/60-day-wonder-autoflowering-cannabis-seeds/ (+) https://growdiaries.com/seedbank/dr-seeds/60-day-wonder-autoflowering
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10/20/24 #1 mainling is going good. plan to transplant to final 3 gallon pot soon. #5 seems the most hardy and lives anything thrown at her. dry environments. humid environment. shes happy all the time. i dont remember which number off the top of my head but it wouldve been the tallest plant. the only one that ive topped so far because she was stretching more than the rest. she has a strong pungent dank stank smell coming off of her already in veg. so thats something to note and i will definitely be keeping an eye on that. #4 has been transplanted into a 5 gal fab pot and placed into my flowerring tent. im probably going to start a separate diary for each pheno through flower because they will all probably be flowered at separate times. they may overlap but they will all be on different time tables because i have my plants on a cycling through the flower tent. not necessarily a planned out perpetual grow yet but similiar in the sense of plants being pulled down and new ones ready to go. 10/22 transplanted #1 into her final 3 gal pot. training is set now she just needs to grow bigger before 12/12 10/25 transplanted #5 into a 5 gal fabric pot. also she is already showing purpling on her leafs
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@Breyja
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Por ahora facil de cultivar, 0 carencias 🙏🙏
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@Dunk_Junk
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Wow she's took to the skies this week! Grown another 27cm vertically! 💪 Absolutely marching through flowering! Very fast! Buds are developing well.
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Última semana ,he hecho lavado de raíces y he añadido agua limpia, bueno en resumen a sido una locura, cada una va a su ritmo en floración unas ya han acabado la floración otras están en mitad de floración y otras apenas han empezado a engordar el cogollo... Estoy haciendo lavado pero es una lastima, tener variedades tan diferentes, incluso de la misma raza como las Lili y unas han florecido bastante antes que otras... Total que en lavado de raíces, unas habrán echas bien en la floración, otras a mitad de floración y otras como las amnesia que son de 70 días ... La próxima vez intentaré al menos hacerlas, todas o sativas o todas índicas mezclar variedades tan diferentes a sido una locura , sobretodo en crecimiento, he sufrido de todo incluso con el hidroponico, se me taponaron los desagües por tubo pequeño, tendré que inventar otro mecanismo para el desagüe... Está última semana he echo lavado raíces con final flush, y he regulado el pH a 6.2 con agua de grifo y lluvia, también he metido encimas de limpieza así estarán una semana y si veo que se ponen bien amarillas , afilo tijeras...quiero que estén hiper limpias para que queden bien limpias de sabor...
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@Ferenc
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Day 80, 22nd of October 2020: 3rd week of flowering! Happiness she needs a lot of boost hard to keep up. She loves fertilization too much..... I mean before always craving for nitrogen now qould need more potassium and phosphorus hard to keep up. I also detect deficiency based on the leaves getting lighter and brown spots but I do feed her as much as I can really. This week i have relised the first nice trichomes started "sitting" on the leaves as well and the pistils coming out nicely pre flowers forming. Let's go.
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@Luv2Grow
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Day 71 - Starting week 11 and this should be her final week, I’m just looking for a little bit more amber to show up in her. Hopefully as she dries out from her last watering, she’ll get to that 30-40%. Her buds are really chunking up and dense as hell too! Day 72 - And she’s done, she’s gonna get the axe after 48 hours or so of darkness. Haven’t really used the darkness before harvest method before but needed some room in the tent so gonna give it a go. She should be getting chopped on Thursday sometime.
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@Salokin
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Last week of feeding. Started the flush already, eyes still pinned on the 25th for harvest.
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@Nikkov
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Well, another week has passed and the end of the second week has come and the pistils have already shown themselves and I continue watering with top crop bloom, first time testing this fertilizer and I'm only using two of them, top veg and top bloom, next cycle I'm going to use General Hydroponics fertilizers because I have a friend who uses them and he's having great results, I still want to talk to my friends about this strain because I think it hasn't grown as it should, but anyway we're studying to improve ourselves for the next ones, the rest is all experience for the next ones it grows. =D
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Experienced some light burn this week. Quickly figured out a solution to get my lights higher. Did not expect her to get so big but I’m Loving It! 😁 Been debating on cutting the wind burnt leaves all week. ⬇️⬇️⬇️Week Rundown⬇️⬇️⬇️ 8/9: Bumped light intensity to 75% Started new batch of nutes today. 1st week of early bloom set. No liquid KoolBloom this time 🤦‍♂️🏾 missing from starter kit! Mixed nutes as usual in full gallon jug. Transferred half of treated gallon to half gallon jug. Poured whole half gallon jug into Rez to top off rez at a little over 3rd line. 8/10: Topped of rez this morning with the rest of half gallon of nutes + some plain water out of half gallon jug. 8/11: Topped rez off back to a little over the 3rd line with the plain water from the half gallon water jug. Poured whole half gallon in. She has been drinking very heavily. 😌 thirsty jean lol. 8/12: Topped rez off tonight back to 3rd line. She is steadily drinking now. You can see roots swimming in the rez. 🙃🙃 8/13: Topped off rez this morning and midday. She is drinking heavy now. Did some maintenance on lower canopy. Got rid of dead/dying leaves. I hope she starts budding soon I’m running out of head room The canopy is pretty even right now but I’m now able to raise the lights any higher so I need her to stay put. 😂 8/14: Topped off rez this morning with the rest of half gallon nutes from last night and then some water from half gallon jug. Determined! I was able to raise the lights as high as I can for tent size. Used my 2 extra hanging clips to raise lights at least 12in above canopy. Hopefully she is done stretching as I can see bud formation slowly showing themselves. 8/15: Topped rez of this morning with water from half gallon jug. Started new batch this afternoon. Was no point to starve her til Monday for new batch so I ended up running it today. Bumped light intensity to 85%. Hopefully no roasting occurs lol
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Set 1&2 are out the green house in an outdoor setting but still under light....did some transplanting gonna do the rest in the upcoming week hopefully n maybe take some cuts other than that everything else running smooth Harvest the mother tree at the beginning of the week with would be about 6 weeks....took a few samples n she's hitting to say only dry a few days scent, flavor and effect are on point....still curing her out
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@Max1973
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Day 86 - another week, not much to post, getting brown hairs, buds fattening up..... normal feeding, they are happy..... 👍 😎
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@Haoss
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Buds should be dried in the dark at 20 degrees in 50% humidity 👌