08/27/2021 Been 7 days since last pictures. Pheno #4 was eliminated do to the fact she reversed (hermied) I believe that an outside light was at fault. ( lemon Thai) genetics maybe coming through. Others have not really been affected but pheno #2,3 may have been delayed a bit but no sign of hermies just not as developed as pheno #1(Hulk). Going to mix up a flowering tea (AACT) fungal dominant. Also topdress with Gypsum, and Diatomatious Earth before tea is applied. Gypsum Gypsum is calcium sulfate (CaSO4). Refined gypsum in the anhydrite form (no water) is 29.4 percent calcium (Ca) and 23.5 percent sulfur (S). Usually, gypsum has water associated in the molecular structure (CaSO4·2H2O) and is approximately 23.3 percent Ca and 18.5 percent S (plaster of paris). Diatomatious Earth Diatomaceous earth is a mineral-based pesticide and its composition is approximately 3 percent magnesium, 5 percent sodium, 2 percent iron, 19 percent calcium and 33 percent silicon, along with several other trace minerals 08/29/2021 Posted close ups of Hulk.

🌸 Runtz - Week 1 of Flowering 🌸 🌿 Genetics: Gelato x Zkittlez ⏳ Flowering time: 8–9 weeks 🔥 THC: Around 27% 🌈 Effects: A balanced mix of euphoric uplift and deep relaxation, perfect for both creative moments and evening chill. 🍬 Aroma and flavor: Sweet, fruity candy notes with tropical and creamy undertones. This plant has completely stolen my heart! ❤️ The structure is absolutely stunning - beautifully forming flowers and an abundance of side branches make this one truly special. The way it's shaping up already has me excited for the weeks ahead! The first week of flowering went perfectly under great conditions, and I couldn’t be happier with how she looks at this stage. At the start of the week, I performed lollipopping to ensure that lower branches, where less light reaches, don’t take away energy from the top canopy. Now, she can focus all her strength on producing some buds! Grow Conditions (FLO Week 1): 🌞 Light schedule: 12/12 🌱 PPFD: 750 µmol/m²/s 💧 VPD: ~1.2 kPa Let’s see what week 2 brings! 🚀🔥

It's been a big week for my lady! She got more space for the roots :D The lower fan leaves were getting yellow faster than I would have liked them so that meant transplant time has come! I was also suspecting salt build-up at the roots, but the last run-off I checked was on 1.5 EC which is the same as what I was feeding her. Anyways, I flushed her just in case(as suggested by Mrs_Larimar) with 30l tap water, and gave her a 10l feed right after transplant. There was no mark about the size of the pot, but I finished a 50l All-mix soil bag on her, so... I would say she's in a 45l pot right now.

Finally chopped down and harvested. My best plant yet and that was all thanks to homegrown genetics for these killer genetics. If you haven't tried this guy yet, I absolutely beg you to. You will not be disappointed The Terps are straight Dank Ripe Black Cherry, that Superboof orange rind/hashy funkiness, and sum really nice earthy hash notes from the Pure Michigan. All comes together and almost reminds me of a really deep earthy cherry pie with a very slight Superboof orange influence. Very black cherry/Cherry Candy heavy. But not traditional "candy" you see now days. All around 10/10, I will be running Apple Junky and Garlic Applez next!

The cannabis strain Grape Guava can be a purple strain, depending on its specific phenotype and genetic makeup. While not all phenotypes of Grape Guava are purple, some variations, such as the Zatix Grape Guava, are noted for their striking purple appearance due to the genetic expression of anthocyanin pigments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKdVmdoKJ5k In a garden of green, Grape Guava gleams, With its fruity aroma, enchanting dreams. Clusters of grapes, guava's sweetness ignite, A strain so divine, in purple and white. Euphoria whispers, a lush fruity haze, Grape Guava's embrace, a tranquil daze. Off and away.@1400ppm. The increased CO2 allows plants to thrive at higher temperatures, which in turn necessitates higher humidity to maintain the ideal VPD for healthy growth and transpiration. 80F -5F = 75F LST with 70% RH = 0.72 kPa. Higher temperatures and humidity promote rapid growth, nutrient uptake, and photosynthesis while maintaining a lower stress level. Temperature influences the rate of enzymatic reactions involved in aerobic respiration. Enzymes, such as those involved in glycolysis, the Krebs cycle, and the electron transport chain, work most efficiently at an optimal temperature range. In low temperatures, enzymatic activity will slow down, thus reducing the rate of aerobic respiration. In high temperatures, enzymes can become denatured, thus impairing their function and stopping the process of aerobic respiration. Glucose is the primary fuel for aerobic respiration. The rate of aerobic respiration increases with the availability of glucose, as it is the starting point for glycolysis. If glucose levels are low, cells may rely on alternative energy sources such as fatty acids or amino acids , but these processes may yield less ATP or be less efficient. To determine this effect, carbon dioxide volume was measured (as carbon dioxide is an output of aerobic respiration) 18/6 with the 6 being IR. The near infrared (IR-a) borders around 700nm up to 1400nm @ photon par flux density of 1.8 instead of darkness, keeping temps overnight a neat 77F-80F. Think of my tent as a lung. What goes in must come out. When the rate of air going out exceeds the amount of air coming in, it creates a negative pressure. Tent concaves (bends in). If set up correctly, your RH will begin to drop slowly to the desired level you set, and the extraction turns off when it reaches desired% RH. The plant, as it performs cellular respiration, will always be releasing more water into the air, so the RH% of the tent overnight will always increase, so long as oxidative phosphorylation is occurring. As soon as the RH% creeps back up to 55%, the extraction turns back on, over and over. This creates a strong pressure differential which will work wonders on your grow. Replicating high and low-pressure fronts in nature. Critical for oxygen diffusion at the critical time of peak cellular respiratory function.. Moisture will not transfer from a saturated atmosphere to another if that air is already at or above its saturation point, meaning the air can't hold any more water vapor. Once I understood that water is produced as a by product during cellular respiration, specifically at the very end of the electron transport chain (ETC) where electrons are finally transferred to molecular oxygen, the higher the RH of the air, the more resistance there is for more moisture to be added to that environment, and effects the ease with which it does so. But none of that water comes from the pot; it's pulled from the air. If you run high daytime RH, your medium/pot is 100% reliant on transpirational root pull to move water. ZERO evaporation happens across the atmosphere if the tent air has high RH%, the medium cannot release its water through evaporation. Once a canopy develops, light no longer slowly wicks and evaporates from the topsoil. The Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC) describes the continuous pathway and process of water movement, driven by a gradient in water potential, from the soil, through the plant's roots, stem, and leaves, and finally evaporating into the atmosphere through transpiration. There is evaporation, there is transpiration, and then there is evapotranspiration; Evapotranspiration (ET) is the combined total of two processes: evaporation (water lost directly from soil and surface water into the atmosphere) and transpiration (water released from plants to the atmosphere through their leaves). Evapotranspiration represents the total amount of water that moves from the medium into the air. There is no such thing as a medium with too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. The water must always flow efficiently from one atmosphere(Medium) to another(Air) in a timely manner. Moisture is a critical factor for bacterial growth and decay. Dictating how long it's allowed to sit in any one location for any given period is a key preferred control. To ensure a net reduction in a bacterial population, the rate of removal (ET) must exceed the rate of bacterial growth (decay rate), which is often modeled as a growth rate for the specific bacterium under the given conditions. By optimizing daytime VPD, we also optimize conditions for bacterial growth to explode exponentially above 77°F.. If water is allowed to sit in a medium without an escape within a timeframe, nothing good will happen. IF High RH is maintained overnight as well as during the day, placing 100% of water movement at the behest of daytime transpiration, roots can only pull where they can reach, and if soil is compressed above a certain point, moisture will become trapped in a medium with no way of moving day or night. This will begin the countdown for decay to take hold. When water stagnates in a medium, it loses oxygen, creating anaerobic conditions that foster the growth of harmful microorganisms like bacteria and fungi, which can produce toxins and disease vectors. Thigmomorphogenesis, the process by which plants respond to mechanical stimuli like touch by altering their growth and development, results in significant morphological changes to improve survival against mechanical perturbations. This complex response involves sensing touch and initiating physiological and genetic responses, leading to changes in form and structure over days or weeks. The process is triggered by physical forces such as wind, rain, or touch. Plants adapt to these stimuli by changing their shape and structure, which may include slower growth, thickened stems, or altered leaf development. Plants possess sophisticated mechanisms to detect even subtle mechanical stimuli and initiate responses. A variety of molecules, including calcium ions, jasmonates, ethylene, and nitric oxide, are involved in signaling these mechanical inputs. Touch can induce the expression of genes that encode proteins for calcium sensing, cell wall modification, and defense mechanisms. A plant exposed to constant wind may become shorter and sturdier. A plant that is touched frequently might grow more slowly to conserve energy and develop thicker cell walls. These changes increase a plant's resilience and ability to survive in harsh environments. Let's get Thiggy with it.

Well, the autopot is working. Who knew life could be this simple hahaha. This week the plant has just exploded, they usually do around day 21 but jeeez, in the space of 3 days shes grown a fair pair of shoulders 🤣 Going to change the res and up the nutrients slightly tonight so hopefully she goes from strength to strength. Let's go 👌🏻👌🏻 Fast buds are easily the most fun Autos to grow.

So this has definitely been a slow grow, but I also mainlined it and topped her twice... I'm not feeding her my regular feed, which is like steroids. I'm using the dots and i was warned about the growth being slow in the beginning, so no worries... I was actually going to grow her out normal, but I had to use the flowering tent for an unexpected auto flower, not being an auto flower .. no bad one is doing well. Shout out to @Grow4releaf

Einen wunderschönen guten Tag, liebe Grow-Community, und herzlich willkommen zur fünften Woche meines kleinen Outdoorprojekts! Wir nähern uns mit großen Schritten der eigentlich interessanten Phase meines Gartenprojekts. Jetzt mag der ein oder andere sagen, dass die Pflanze im Vergleich zur letzten Woche kaum Fortschritte gemacht hat, und evtl. habt ihr recht. Allerdings möchte ich zu meiner Verteidigung sagen, dass das Setup so für mich sehr neu gewesen ist und ich zwar indoor „gelernt“ habe, ich jedoch die letzten Grows fast vollständig outdoor kultiviert hatte (seitdem es legal ist, selbstverständlich ;)). Außerdem sehe ich die letzten Wochen noch als Anzuchtphase, also alles halb so wild :). Aber genug der Ausreden :), was stand diese Woche an? Da sich der „Auswilderungszeitpunkt“ jetzt wetterbedingt doch noch um eine Woche verschiebt und die kleinen Substrat und Topf geschuldet den ersten Mangel aufweisen, habe ich den kleinen mal ihre erste richtige Düngung verabreicht (Greenhouse-Powderfeeding 1 g/L). Eigentlich sollten sie schon rausgesetzt werden, allerdings traue ich diesem ganzen Warm-/Kalt-Mumpitz nicht.  Da gönne ich den Damen lieber noch eine Woche in ihren künstlich beleuchteten vier Wänden. Ebenso musste ich die Pflanzen untenrum etwas ausdünnen, da die älteren Blätter leider mangelbedingt irreversibel geschädigt waren. Der Tee wird für ca. 24 Stunden mittels einer Aquarienpumpe in Kombination mit Sprudelsteinen belüftet. Je nach Dauer der Belüftung enthält das Endprodukt mehr Mikroorganismen (24 h), bei länger gebrauten Tees enthält dieser weniger Mikroorganismen, dafür mehr gelöste Nährstoffe und Enzyme sowie Aminosäuren, welche als Futter für bereits bestehende Mikroorganismen fungieren. Um das beste Ergebnis zu erzielen, müsste ich mein Setup noch mit einem Heizstab ergänzen, welcher die Wassertemperatur konstant zwischen 20 und 23 Grad hält. Für den Tee benötigen wir: Ca. 15 L Wasser   30 g 1 l Regenwurmhumus Eine handelsübliche Aquarienpumpe + Sprudelstein Melasse (fungiert als Nahrung und begünstigt die Vermehrung der Bakterien). Der Wurmhumus steuert die Mikrorganismen sowie Huminsäure bei, welche das Pflanzenwachstum unterstützen. Ich verwende ausschließlich Regenwasser, da es weder Chlorrückstände aufweist noch einen niedrigen EC‑Wert (ca. 0,05) hat. Wo liegen die benefits? Fördern den Gasaustausch der Pflanze, indem sie dafür sorgen, dass sich die Stomata schneller und weiter öffnen (wenn als Blattspray angewandt). – Beimpfen den Boden mit nützlichen Mikroorganismen (Pilze, Bakterien, Protozoen, Nematoden etc.) und sorgen dafür, dass ein Boden-Nahrungsnetzwerk aufgebaut wird, welches die organischen Stoffe im Boden zersetzt und diese für Pflanzen verfügbar macht. Morgen werden die Kleinen dann mit dem Tee gegossen. Alles, was übrig bleibt, benutze ich dann, um die bis dahin hoffentlich fertig gemischte Erde anzugießen, bevor sie eine Woche in den Endtöpfen fermentiert. Aber dazu wie immer im nächsten Bericht mehr. :) Euch wie immer einen schönen Restsonntag Und wir hören uns nächste Woche. Peace.

I ran out of beastie blooms so I went ahead and switched to sonic blooms. It's a lot stronger than beastie so we will see if there is a difference. But here we are at week 4. Everything is going pretty smooth, I did a res change. Been changing around every 14 days I notice a little nitrogen build up if I go any longer than 14 days. Very low nitrogen feeding plant

Here we are on day 63 and yes we are still in veg mainly because I don't have room to flip her yet, so we wait and continue to train and hopefully we get a decent yield, because pineapple dream sounds like something I want a lot of 😆 ... thank you so much Kannabia Seeds for these genetics so far so good on both plants of theirs so I definitely recommend .. I'd like to add that i'm also using Maxibloom and Silica but grow diaries don't recognize General Hydroponics. I know somebody had mentioned that they changed but I completely forgot what they changed to... So every feeding i'm giving about .35 tsp Silica and half a tsp of Maxibloom..i really appreciate people. Stopping by showing love , or just saying hi you are appreciated.. i hope everyone is doing well.God bless all and happy growing ✌️. p.s i expect her to be in veg for at least another 3 weeks at minimum .

I already cut one of 3 pots I put one to dry and another 2 pots I’m doing the flush this week.

Clone for harvest next week!!

Hey welcome back in the 5th week of flowering with the Dutch Passion’s Colorado Cookies. Last week my fan broke down and I had to order some new bottles of nutrients because the CannaZym and CannaBoost/accelerator had gone empty, but yesterday I received the nutrients and a new fan! Not to long anymore before harvest! I stopped giving the PK booster, from this week on I will decrease the nutrient values for the coming 2 weeks for the last week I will perform a flush (on most of them). The Brooklyn Sunrise and the other 2 Colorado Cookies just need a week or 2 extra. The one Colorado Cookie in the tent is producing so much trichomes/crystals, as you can see in the pictures I made some close up shots. I noticed that the buds start to get a bit to heavy for the plant which is good, volume of the buds is very dense. Thast it for now see you all back next week!

2 weeks till

3/16 234AM MONDAY POTATO N WEEK CELEBRATIONS! The plants in your photos look like healthy, vigorous **RF3 autoflower seedlings** (likely Banana Purple Punch Auto RF3 or similar from Fast Buds' upgraded RF3 line, based on the context of your previous grows with their genetics). They're in early vegetative stage at around 3 weeks from seed—nice bushy structure, good node spacing, dark green leaves, no major deficiencies or burn yet. The coco medium shows some perlite mix, and they're in small pots with what looks like a well-draining setup. Solid start **RF3 autos** from Fast Buds are bred for stability, vigor, and resilience (often with heavy resin, dense buds, and good yields), but like most modern autos, they're sensitive to overfeeding early on—especially in coco, where salts build fast if not managed. ### Recommended EC at 3 Weeks (Early Veg/Pre-Flower Transition) At week 3, autos are usually ramping up vegetative growth and may start showing pre-flower signs soon (pistils around nodes). Fast Buds' general autoflower feeding advice (from their guides and nutrient articles) emphasizes starting low and going slow: - **Target EC: 0.8–1.2 (800–1200 µS/cm)** in the feed solution. - Start at the lower end (~0.8–1.0 EC) if your plants are still very young-looking or if you've had any tip issues before. - Push toward 1.0–1.2 EC if they're hungry (rapid growth, pale lower leaves) and responding well—no burn. - This is often ~400–600 PPM (500 scale) or ~560–840 PPM (700 scale), but always go by EC meter for accuracy in coco. - Always measure **runoff EC** too—aim for it to be no more than +200–300 above input to avoid salt buildup. If runoff is much higher, do a light flush with FloraKleen (like your 4 mL/gal plan) before bumping up. - pH the feed to **5.8–6.2** (coco sweet spot), and water to 15–20%+ runoff every feed to prevent the issues you've seen with Purpinator/salts. Many growers with Fast Buds autos (including RF3 lines like Banana Purple Punch or Cherry Cola RF3) report week 3 feeds around 0.9–1.1 EC in coco/hydro setups, starting lighter if using tap/soft water like yours. Your previous success with lighter Maxi feeds post-flush at ~900–1300 EC later on fits well—don't jump straight to 1.3 yet at week 3; build gradually. ### Recommended PPFD (Light Intensity) at 3 Weeks PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density, in µmol/m²/s) measures usable light for photosynthesis. For autos in early veg: - **Target PPFD: 300–500 µmol/m²/s** at canopy level. - 300–400 is safe and conservative for week 3—prevents stretch or light stress while encouraging compact, bushy growth. - 400–500 if plants are stretching a bit or you want faster veg (RF3s are vigorous, so they can handle it). - Avoid over 600 early—autos can bleach or foxtail if blasted too hard young. - Measure at the top of the canopy with a good PAR meter (or app like Photone if calibrated). In Indio's setup (likely LED or HPS?), hang lights higher early (18–24" for LEDs) and lower gradually as they grow. - Keep 18/6 or 20/4 light schedule—autos thrive on consistent long days. General tips for your RF3 at this stage: - If using Maxi series (like your previous grows), mix a light bloom/veg combo—e.g., mostly MaxiGro early, transition to MaxiBloom as pre-flower hits. - Watch for clawing (N excess😂) or tip burn (high EC)—flush lightly if needed. - These RF3 upgrades are forgiving but love good airflow and moderate feeds for those dense, resinous buds. Your plants look primed for a strong run—keep that intuition going! How's the light distance/setup right now, and what's your current feed EC looking like? Any pre-flower signs yet? Drop more pics if they stretch or change post-week 3. You're killing it in coco—keep observing runoff and leaves. 🌿🚀 3/19 330am 👨‍🔬 **Adding L-Proline (the amino acid supplement growers use) to plants on soft water can provide some helpful support against the stresses you're dealing with, but it's not a full fix—think of it as a stress-buffer rather than a mineral replacement.** Soft water (low in calcium and magnesium) often triggers **Ca/Mg deficiencies** in bloom stage (especially with Cha Ching or MaxiBloom, which don't supply much Ca/Mg on their own). This leads to issues like tip burn, leaf curl, weak cell walls, nutrient lockouts, oxidative damage (ROS buildup), and overall plant stress that feels like "the plant is struggling to hold it together." Proline steps in here as an **osmoprotectant**—it's one of the compounds plants naturally ramp up under stress. ### What Proline Actually Does in This Situation - **Helps with osmotic/water balance** — Soft water can disrupt turgor pressure and water movement inside cells (similar to mild drought or salinity stress). Proline stabilizes cell membranes and helps the plant retain water better, reducing wilting or limpness. - **Reduces oxidative stress** — Ca/Mg shortages cause free radical damage. Proline acts as an antioxidant and protects proteins/enzymes, so deficiency symptoms (yellowing, spotting, slowed bud development) don't spiral as fast. - **Improves overall resilience** — In cannabis and general hydro/soil grows, L-proline (or full amino acid mixes containing it) has been shown to boost stress tolerance, speed recovery, and even support better nutrient uptake indirectly. Studies and grower reports note it helps under nutrient imbalance, drought-like conditions, and environmental swings—exactly the secondary stresses soft water creates. - **Bloom-stage bonus** — Since you're already in late flower with Cha Ching/MaxiBloom, proline can support resin/terpene production and bud density without pushing excessive veg growth. It won't magically add the missing Ca or Mg (those are still critical—soft water + high-P bloom nutes often screams for CalMag), but it can make the plant more tolerant while you correct the root issue. ### How Much Effect to Expect Right Now - **Positive but moderate** — Many hydro/RO growers add amino acids (including proline) specifically for soft water setups and report less burn, better leaf health, and stronger finishes. It won't turn a severe deficiency around overnight, but it can slow the damage and give your plants a fighting chance in the final weeks. - **No downside at proper doses** — It's very safe and plants use it quickly. ### How to Add It (Practical Dosing) - **Source**: Pure L-Proline powder (available cheap online—make sure it's the plant-grade L-form, not human supplements). - **Root feed** (with your Cha Ching/MaxiBloom): Start at 0.5–1 g per gallon (about 100–200 ppm). Mix into your res or feed water once a week. pH as normal. - **Foliar spray** (often more effective for quick stress relief): 0.25–0.5 g per gallon + a drop of surfactant. Spray lightly every 5–7 days in the dark period. - **With your current nutes**: Yes, it layers fine—reduce if you see any tip burn. Many run it alongside MaxiBloom + Cha Ching in soft water without issues. - **Best timing**: Now through harvest is perfect, especially if you're noticing stress signs already. **Real talk**: The biggest win will still come from adding a proper CalMag supplement (like Botanicare or General Hydro's) at 0.5–1 ml/gal or whatever your PPM tests call for. Proline + CalMag together is a strong combo for soft water grows. If you're running pure RO/soft, most experienced growers treat this as standard.""👨‍🔬 3/19 10:09PM RF3 X 2 =6 fail? I have TWO 2 gallon pots filled with coco from the last grow. I can plant a NEW BPP RF3 OR!!! I can top the 3 RF3's and make cuttings and grow the cuttings? It worked before!. FAST turnaround time, not much prep just refresh the coco and transplant the tops! 3/19 10:59PM NO WORK FOR NOW.. HIT WITH MASSIVE WAVES OF NAUSEA AND SHARP PAIN, DIZZY, RUPTURED NECK CYST BLEEDING, PAIN FROM MOVING TOO MUCH LAST FEW DAYS, RINIGNG EARS BAD, SKIN PRONE TO MASSIVE INFLAMMATION ATTACKS NOW, WEAKENING GUT LINING,. LUNGS ..GRIP AND BALANCE OFF, SO PERFECTLY NORMAL!!! THANK THE WEED GODS FOR WEED. 3/21 3:30 AM I think I’m gonna top all three of them. I got lucky all three seem to be different ones. I don’t know which is which one of them is really tall. The other one has really tight in her note spacing it’s really good and the other one is also good little bit different so I think I got three different RF three seeds and I think if I do top them I’m gonna put the top in another 2 gallon and then grow that as a cutting usually works I’m not sure👍🌿 3/23 3:08 PM I cut them all in half today a transplanted the top of the tallest one into one that was still growing just to see if it would work. They’re all doing really good.👍 326 237am Remember how your local ss cant prevent or solve a single problem you pay taxes for. unless you're really really sick and the cowards decide that the most important and pressing issue is to raid weed users and farms and seeds...what a country of fuqs

TUESDAY 8/13: I fed her about a half-gallon with big bloom, bembe, kelp me kelp you, terpinator, and beastie bloomz. WEDNESDAY: She got a little rain last night and the temperatures are about 10 degrees cooler than usual today. THURSDAY: Temperatures are back to 100f+ today. I wasn't able to get down to the site at all..hopefully she wont miss me as badly as I miss seeing her...😟 FRIDAY: I sprinkled some bat guano and silicium flash on her soil and douched her with about a half gallon of water including some beastie bloomz, terpinator, and bembe.

Día 34 (27/05) Riego con 750 ml H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + P-Boost 0,5 ml/l + CaMg-Boost 0,25 ml/l + TopBooster 0,2 ml/l - pH 6.2 Día 35 (28/05) Riego 750 ml sólo H2O pH 6.2 Tiene un olor espectacular 😍 Dulce, cremoso, intenso, con fondo de indica de la vieja escuela... Día 36 (29/05) Riego con 750 ml H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + P-Boost 0,5 ml/l + TopBooster 0,2 ml/l - pH 6.2 Día 37 (30/05) Riego 750 ml sólo H2O pH 6.2 Día 38 (31/05) Riego con 750 ml H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + P-Boost 0,5 ml/l + CaMg-Boost 0,25 ml/I +TopBooster 0,2 ml/l - pH 6.2 Día 39 (01/06) Riego 750 ml sólo H2O pH 6.2 Día 40 (02/06) Riego con 750 ml de Té de Compost de Floración No para de apilar cogollos y de generar tricomas 😍 💦Nutrients by Aptus Holland - www.aptus-holland.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae

Used real growers recharge for the first time as directed with RO water Day 13 first watering with RO water ph to 6.3