🌱 : Preflowering 💧 : 6l 💡 : Dli: 40 mol/m²/d 🤔 :

Going nice;))))

This week everything looks great and growing green!!!

Ladies and gentlemen today is day 42 of veg and we are moving right along, as you can see, we are at 8 tops and everything seems to be going swimmingly. As you guys can see from one of the pictures is a little area. I don't know what happened to it at first.I thought it was rotting.It seems to be getting better if anyone has any clue as to what the why or how that would be greatly appreciated! Other than that, this girl is doing great and she is thriving. Regardless of that little mark, so I think everything will be just fine.. I'd like to thank my friends over at Kannabia seeds for making this grow possible and for being awesome! I hope everyone is doing well and so are there ladies. God bless and happy growing ✌️

hello some news on vegetation day 22, start the bio grow, and bend the four Lateral head, and crap when i bend a stem has cracked but she is not cut I straighten them with a piece of iron she can go back. 😀👍

68h light off

Time to change the period...

Compare the airpot roots versus the normal pots. No root circling. and the plant is bigger although that might be genetic. Perhaps it is due to the roots being able to get more oxygen Transplanted late in week 3 into bigger pots,,, just water, no nutrients

Last week happened a lot. I Was looking forward for day 49, because it marked the last foliation day. I put away the scrog net ä, because i think i just let those girl the freedom they need. The sidebranches got thicker, and I think i just let them go from now on. This is the first time im really giving nutritions, and the difference is huge. These nugs are crazy. They are 3 weeks before harvest much bigger than These from my first grow. I also have some cal/mag issues on my strawberry Gorilla and my Red mimosa. Lets see if I can handle it. Day 53: i think the plants are struggeling with the high variation in temperature. its between 10 degrees and 28. but i cant move them into a heated building. at least i hope that the yield will be ok, and next grow will be under other circumstances.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Day 28-35 (May 28th - June 4th) (Day 29) My rooted blackberry #3 clone looks like it’s finally starting to reveg. It’s starting to stretch it’s internodes but no new growth yet. Nearly all 9 are pushing roots now. What a waste of time taking clones in flower! Won’t ever do that again. Grapefruit #1 has a twin! I thought it was just an odd formation on the taproot but two seedlings are pushing out. I wonder if it will be genetically identical. It’s definitely slower growing than the other one so who knows. I will try to train them apart when the time comes. (Day 30) I think the EC/PPMs are too high on nearly every plant including my veggies. The promix is actually really hot for a “blank” medium coming in at 1800. Adding compost and amendments to that is probably raising it to 2500+ at least. It should self balance the more I water it but I know for a fact I can get better growth by leaching the soil around each plant. Next time I use promix for anything, I’m going to prewash it like coco coir and add a dash of oyster shell flour for pH and calcium. (Day 32) Purple tuna is now big enough to start lst on now. I’m going to wait a little while for the slurricanes. (Day 33) One of the grapefruits has a twin that actually popped... I’m going to leave it and see how she turns out (Day 35) I’m going to prune off the lower leaves on each plant. I was going to lst Purple tuna but it’s so vigorous I may as well just top/mainline it. Autoflowers are looking established and should be taking off this week. I wonder if this will give them enough time to veg into decent sized plants before they flower. I won’t be topping or even doing lst. My goal is 22 big spear colas from each plant. I’m going to get all my rooted clones into 1.7 gallon pots over the next week or so.

Wegetation 25 weeks

Sorry for video 😔 there 3 autos left, 1 died and i change with another auto in black pot.

Hello, everyone. What happened with us this week - we moved our girl to another box because her height is now over 140 cm, and she started hitting the lights. I couldn't take good photos, so here's a video. The issue is that our girl was under the net in the box, and when the net was removed, she started collapsing under the weight of the buds. I ordered supports of 150 cm in height, and when I make our girl presentable, I'll take a lot of photos. We trimmed the leaves and small branches a bit.Take notice, it's the third week of flowering, and our girl is already covered in sugar. I want to wish everyone a good harvest and easy cultivation. Thanks to everyone who watches and reads, and especially those who leave comments, ask questions, and hit the like button. Also, a huge thanks to Zamnesia and Plagron.

week 3 day 16: about 15cm in height day 17: about 16cm in height on day 17 I repoted her into a 12 litre pot I set her deeper in the soil, about 3-4 cm Soil: compo sana classic Qualitäts Blumenerde day 19: I started LST (see video) day 20: further LST I think she is doing well so far during night every second day under the lamp

**Encontrarás la traducción a español al final de la descripción** From/Desde: 19/04/19 || To/Hasta: 25/04/19 From day/Desde día: 57 || To day/Hasta día: 63 You can find the Gorillas Diary here (Texts are the same this week): ** Podéis encontrar el diario de las Gorilla aquí (Los textos son iguales esta semana):** https://growdiaries.com/diaries/25675-makingmoney-with-gorilla-mm-vs-gorilla -----IMAGES & VIDEOS----- 1 - Before defoliation 2 - Defoliation 3 - After defoliation -----WEEK SUMMARY----- (Following text was translated with tools and reviewed, sorry for mistakes, misspellings or nosense things) As you can see I've done a defoliation this week. Yes, I have really gone over the top, I have removed many more leaves than I had, and the tails of the plants has not come to join at all due to the failed defoliation. Being the first defoliation I do, I did not really know what I was doing and I went crazy. Now that it has been several weeks since I made this defoliation, I realize that I should not have removed the leaves from the nodes of the tails, because they have stopped growing and have not joined with their superior parts. Anyway, the plants are beautiful today and although they could be much better I feel very happy with them. I know I've made 2 fatal mistakes in this grow - The first has been the massive defoliation badly done, defoliation yes, but with head ... do not follow my example. - The second failure that I see today, is that I did not leave enough growth time (18/6) after having made the last pruning and that has made the tails have been a length much less than what would have been desired, I think that 2 more weeks of growth would have been perfect. -----WATERING CALENDAR----- 20/04/19 - 1,250 ml with Sensizym, Silica, Rhino Sk, Bud Ignitor, Big Bud, Bud Candy & Bud Factor-x @ PH6.4 & 1.2 E.C. 23/04/19 - 1,250 ml with All week nutrients - (Silica, Sensizym & Bud Ignitor) @ PH6.5 & 1.5 E.C. *****ESPAÑOL***** -----IMÁGENES Y VÍDEOS----- 1 - Antes de la defoliación 2 - Defoliación 3 - Después de la defoliación -----SUMARIO SEMANAL----- Como podéis ver esta semana he hecho una defoliación. Si, efectivamente me he pasado de listo, he quitado muchas más hojas de las que debía y las colas de las plantas no ha llegado a unirse del todo debido a la fallida defoliación. Al ser la primera defoliación que realizo, no sabía muy bien que hacía y me lancé a lo loco. Ahora que han pasado varias semanas desde que realicé esta defoliación, me doy cuenta de que no debí de haber quitado las hojas de los nodos de las colas, pues estos han dejado de crecer y no se han unido con sus partes superioras. De todas maneras, las plantas están preciosas a día de hoy y aunque podrían estar mucho mejor me doy con un canto en los dientes. Se que he cometido 2 errores gordos en este cultivo - El primero ha sido la defoliación masiva mal realizada, defoliación si, pero con cabeza.... no sigáis mi ejemplo. - El segundo fallo que yo veo a día de hoy, es que no dejé suficiente tiempo de crecimiento (18/6) después de haber realizado las últimas podas y eso ha hecho que las colas hayan quedado de una longitud muy inferior a la que hubiera deseado, creo que 2 semanas más de crecimiento hubiera sido perfecto. -----CALENDARIO DE RIEGO----- 20/04/19 - 1.250 ml con Sensizym, Silica, Rhino Sk, Bud Ignitor, Big Bud, Bud Candy y Bud Factor-x @ PH6.4 & 1,2 E.C. 23/04/19 - 1.250 ml con todos los nutrientes semanales - (Silica, Sensizym y Bud Ignitor) @ PH6,5 & 1,5 E.C.

Von den Trichomen her brauch der gesamte Grow noch ca. 1 Woche. Lemon Pie hingegen ist bereits heute geerntet worden, normalerweise achte ich darauf alle gleichzeitig zu ernten, aber in diesem Fall war der Reifeunterschied zu groß. Allen Buds geht es soweit gut und wie man auf den Bildern sehen kann sind alle ordentlich eingeschneit. Dadurch das nur noch 4 Pflanzen im Zelt sind, kann ich alle rotierend umstellen, damit alle Buds gleich ausreifen. Dieser Grow wird der letzte in meinem alten Zelt sein, da einige Streben bereits gebrochen sind und das Zelt über die Jahre Löcher bekommen hat, wodurch die Geruchsfilterung praktisch nicht mehr vorhanden ist. Ich plane mir die HOMEbox Ambient Q100 zu kaufen, da ich viel gutes darüber gelesen habe und ich mein Setup besser verbauen kann. Falls jemand einen anderen Vorschlag hat, würde ich mich natürlich auch freuen. Viel Ertrag und feste Buds für euch alle!