Both girls have been topped to slow them down. I personally prefer to LST but given the no space situation they got a hair cut. Very bushy structure they are itching to switch tent. Another week or so I’d say before I transplant in their final pot. It’ll be either a 3 or 5 gal pot but I must consider the feeding plan with a strain that is said to finish 6-7 weeks. Considering the shorter flowering I’m tempted to stay in a smaller pot to ensure she has time to eat up the premixed amendments. Try and get some better pics next week ✌️

Everithing Grow fast, all is green, leaf are healthy Actually No problem 💪🏻 🤓 staY tuned for the new week upgrade 🤪

A-Week 9-(Day 67) B&C-Week 9-(Day 63) A- Loving life, she is fattening up, easily 3-4 inch round buds, about 8-12 inches long circling the plant. Lots of little nugs filling in the middle 🤩Tricomes are multiplying daily, still almost 50% clear, 40% milky, and 10% amber or so. Couple of weeks left, gotta keep air flow high and RH low with those dense buds 😎💨 B- After looking back on last weeks photos, she has really started to thicken up. She has big calyxes, and are stacking nicely. Tops on tops for this one. Her LST and topping created a very dense canopy, similar to A, but B stretched a little more. C-Done her stretching, she is now focusing on bud building. She is stacking nicely, and I said it last week, I’m pretty sure she will be the biggest producer if she fills in as thick as her sisters are 👀💥 No issues, no pests, not even Gnats. A tip I got from WTTGT, Woooooooooh! Was to store your soil/medium near the exhaust of your tent so it always has dry warm air blowing on it. I have not had any issues with pests since doing this before starting this run, and then adding another to the mix mid-run(my GG#4) has had no issues. The 975 ppm seems to be their sweet spot, I don’t want to push it as it has been almost uneventful with regards to issues or deficiencies. I’m very happy with the Indo nutrients line, and the addition of the Sensi CalMag xtra together have made this run super easy, considering Autoflowers are far more finicky than photo periods. The differences between each are drastic, topping and LST can be real space savers for those with small gardens, but clearly the un-topped, un-trained pheno is thriving and will produce fairly well 🌱😎💨 Happy Gardening All 👩‍🌾

Last week before flushing🌈

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Have fun with the update. Flowering day 71 since the time change to 12/12 h. Hey everyone :-) It's slowly coming to an end . I will be harvesting them in the next 3-5 days. As always, the light is turned off 48 hours beforehand 👍. The trichomes are 70 milky and 30% amber 😀. The water was set up again today with an Ec of 0.4 so that it can use up all remaining nutrients. I wish you all the best until the harvest update. Stay healthy 🙏🏻 You can buy this Strain at https://www.amsterdamgenetics.com/product/kosher-tangie-kush/ Type: Kosher Tangie Kush ☝️🏼 Genetics: Kosher Kush X Tangie 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow LED CXB3590 COB 55 W 1 x Sanlight S2W 62 W 💡 Flower lamp : 2 x Todogrow LED CXB3590 COB 55 W 1 x Sanlight S2W 62 W 💡 ☝️ Grow Aero System : Growtool 0.8 ☝️ Fertilizer: Canna Aqua Vega A + B , Canna Aqua Flores A + B , Rizotonic, Cannazym, CANNA Boost, Pk 13/14, Canna Cal / Mag, Canna Ph - Grow, Canna Ph-Bloom ☝️🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EG. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with ph- to 5.2 - 5.8 💦 💧

Sorry I missed a few weeks was outta town and not able to update! Things hav been going well! Took some time for em to start growing fast! But they are growing fast! Gonna need some rest from the topping and training from the bud clips. I think I got the manifold line down for all the plants! The og kush I accidentally fimmed it was dramatic lol but made it thru and still growing strong! Makes me laugh fim stands for “fuck I missed” but all this is trial and error for me! Any advice is appreciated! “ happy growing”

Still going like a tank. Slowed down slightly as i broke 2 branches training her but the branches have almost healed and shes bouncing back! Well happy with how its going, going to give her 2 more weeks veg. Any tips on getting her out of the 15l pot into the 20l flower pot?? Ive never transplanted anything this big cheers folks

Ooops I made some mistakes lol all gravy teachable moment …I really think I got a ghost in my grow op lol….anyone recommend an exorcist …im scared lol

Quite a few are finishing up I’m gonna start the flush in around a week then harvest few days after that, incredible thc on this strain and buds are really dense I couldn’t recommend a better autoflower then this is best I’ve ever done 💪🌱😜

When should they start flowering?

💵💵💵💵

💩Alrighty Then Growmies We Are Back At it 💩 Well folks we just finished up the last run and so we are back to do it all over again 😁 So what do you say we have some fun 👈 We got some Gorilla Punch 👊 👊 👊 DAY 28 👉 Its been a really crazy week , major storm rolled in didn't have power for 4 days 😳 I had to be creative but shes doing fine 👌 I believe the stretch is on 👈 So this week I've started her nutrients regiments 👌Just need to remind myself to take it easy 🤔 FC4800 from MarsHydro Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍👉Added an RU45 too the mix 👍 www.marshydro.ca 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈 Would you like to hang with the growdiary community 👉 https://discord.gg/gr4cHGDpdb 👈

I'm just so in love with this plant

Mulberry F3 Day 56 Things are going well today with Miss Mulberry. Up her nutrition level and she has a better green look about her now then same time last week. No more vertical growth and all energy going to flower production.

Perdi mais uma semente , agora vamos tocar essas duas para ver se elas crescem bem saudáveis e fortes. Estão com um bom tamanho vieram para o quintal, ainda pode ter algum ataque de pássaros mas preciso do espaço na estufa para novas sementes que germinaram. Perdi mais uma só restou uma , mas ela está bem .

Día 30 (01/07) Riego con 250 ml H20 pH 6,5. Se muestran sedientas 6 días después del topping, las nuevas ramas se están formando rápidamente! Día 31 (02/07) Se muestran saludables y potentes! Día 32 (03/07) Riego con 500 ml H20 pH 6,5 Día 33 (04/07) Las plantas están creciendo muy rápido! Me planteo hacer supercropping o LST en algunas de ellas... Día 34 (05/07) Se muestran sedientas. Las macetas se le empiezan a quedar pequeñas Riego con 250 ml de H20 pH 6,5 Día 35 (06/07) Training session! Aplico LST a todas y supercropping a la OnionOG mutante con 4 colas por nodo Riego con 500 ml H20 pH 6,5 Día 36 (07/07) Riego con 500 ml de Té Vegetativo de Lurpe Solutions Aplico foliarmente Kelp hidrolizado a 0.25 ml/l Ajustes de LST. Están respondiendo estupendamente al entrenamiento! 😍💥 💦Nutrients by Lurpe Solutions - www.lurpenaturalsolutions.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae

Hi liebe Community and Welcome Back! 💚 Nach der vierten Blütewoche entwickelt sich die Orange Bud weiterhin richtig schön. Die Pflanze bildet viele Stugmen aus und die Dichte zieht sich so von Kopf bis Fuß durch. Ein bisschen Spitzen Burning ist zu verzeichnen. Dafür bilden sich die Blutentriebe sehr schön aus. Und die Stigman fangen an zu sprießen. Sie hat eine richtig schöne Weihnachtsbaum Form! Ich hab nochmal ein paar Blätter rausgenommen, so dass die Pflanze auch im unteren Bereich schön ausgeleuchtet werden kann. Die Umgebungsgegebenheiten sind aktuell hot and dry: ————— 🌞 Temp: 27°C 🌚 Temp: 18°C bis 19°C 💨 RH: 49% VPD: 1,42 kPa 💡ppfd: 830 mpm ————— Viele Grüße 👋

Start of week 4, the blueberries had major bud growth during week 3 and they filled in nicely. There are a few signs of deficiency in the larger fan leaves, but overall I'm very happy with how the blueberries are growing. The Super Lemon Haze is showing signs of deficiencies, she's also hungrier than the blueberries, she got an extra 2 liters of nutes at 1/4 mute strength, the last two weeks. She may require full strength nutes in the extra feeding, to help with the deficiencies. Still, bud site development is coming along nicely on the SLH.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

She has many colours already I love this strain