Edit from second day of the June. 10am in the morning. 600W @ 30C @ 55% RH Yes, sir o7 #Lady BanaN = 95cm tall #Space Girl = 80cm tall Its between 15-18C outside for few days now. Lady BanaN starts "shinning" in the light with her precious trichomes, I have feeling that all that stress will coat the main cola with sugar :) Space Girl have that Jamiroquai vibes all the time, no worries at all, pretty forgiving plant (Royal Critical / 14% THC / Indica dominant hybrid) it was a freebie. I plant it only to have variety from Fat Bananas (22%THC/Indica dominant). I'm mainly looking for Rosin extraction so Trichome production is the most important for me. Don't care about the yield, this is why I filled the tent with biggest pots. Due to lack of place I can't stress these two plants just right before harvest (dark period etc). I was thinking about stressing whole tent with music. I have played Techno Rave already and they seems to like it... so... I don't think loud and aggressive music will stress them. Maybe sound of a city? Honking cars? Talking people? will stress her more? I'm gonna experiment. I just need to think of a way to make her thinking it's time to die and she needs to protect her self. I was thinking about temps and lights also, cuz she gonna coat her self with sugar if it's gonna be too hot/cold to protect/isolate herself from temperature changes. But how do I do that without fucking up? :) Anyway, plan for now is to let them create big buds and then I want to stress-the-f*ck-out-off-them. Maybe I'm gonna lie to them and I'm gonna switch lights? I'm just gonna put 7W led above them so they gonna think its for real lol... 3rd June @ 8am So normally I water these bitches in the morning so there is enough time to make the soil dry by night. Yesterday I did differently and I water them around 5-6pm. They seems to like it, idk. Too high to think about it. 27C @ 60% RH Tent is fully open. I'm sitting with plants today. I'm a plant today... 3rd June @ 5pm 30C @ 55% RH (closed tent) WE COOKIN' ! 4th June @ 10am 26C @ 60% RH (open tent) We still cookin' Things getting frosty!!! Rest of the plants show pistils coming out of calyx's. All of them. Non of them have any pollen sacks etc. So Lady BanaN turned into hermie at 34C (93,2F). From the other hand, they liked 32C temps. Today all of them get at least 1L of (cold) water. Some of them didn't care, one or two of them didn't like it at first but then they turns back to normal. #Space Girl = Same height = around 80cm #Lady BanaN = 98cm (3cm more then week ago 👍) 5th June @ 7am Fungus Gnats sleeping on my leaves, wtf is going on? Or was it dead? Space Girl's main cola is getting bigger then Lady BanaN's main cola. 😳 And Space G is younger by 5-6 days. Temps later. DAMN THAT FROST BUILDING UP EVERYWHERE! 28.5C @ 51% RH (morning) [bottom of the tent] 29C @ 52% RH (evening) [bottom of the tent] 30-32C(evening) in higher parts of the plants. Fan leafs and colas. (NOW I'm really glad I have this temp-pistol) 2C more and I'll have a problem. I don't like that VPD. I hope cold water in the morning will regulate that stuff. Just noticed yellow mushroom growing in west side, lol? 6th June @ morning Shroomy growing big and nice. I decide to leave it alone. I was growing mushrooms before so I know that mycelium under the ground is just in the price of a gold for these plants. It's just natural symbiosis. Somebody answered my question saying it's a damp soil not "humid nights" that cause this but... humid nights makes the soil rly damp. I hope that makes more sense. I moved hydrometer under the canopy of a plant with shroomy. 👉[600W @ 27C @ 61%]👈 with open tent (full front door / little bit of east side) and left the lights on for 24/0. Baby plants no water today. Only big girls drinking now. Oh, I forget that I re-arrange the pots. So Critical and Banan are at the same place but the baby plants around switch their places. The tall one from North-West was moved to South-West etc. In North(back) of the tent is warmer + stronger light. South have colder temps and light is not so intense. You can see Critical have curly leafs but Fat Banana that is taller have not. Temp check before night 👉[600W @ 29C @ 45%]👈 7th June. Morning routine. 👉[400W @ 26C @ 56%]👈 8th June. Late morning. 👉[600W @ 29C @ 49%]👈 I was 100% sure I'm on 400W now but I checked the knob and it was set at 600W? So... somewhere between today and few days ago I had to set it to "Super Lumens" that are above 600W. 660 I think to be precise so no big deal but I guess that's why Royal Critical got her leaves curly a little bit. L A D Y B A N A N F R O S T Y 👽 M E L I K E F R O S T Y 👽 If that's how you increase Frost production then Im gonna do the Palm Tech to all future plants xD

Ordered a scale the other day so should have some more numbers tomorrow! Not going to sample anything until I get the scale, then I'll update with some more details.

No nutrients this week. Just added some top soil of living soil to help with growth and get the essential nutrients as a seedling. But so far good Growth, I just hope it’s a female 🤞🏾

She’s been a bit fussy, with some color draining from a few leaves. But she’s been just a bit fussy the whole time. It looks like I’ll be getting more color change this round.

Just chopped it down – hanging to dry. I'll et back with more info after the dry! Some harvest stats: Afghan #1: - Harvest weight = 181g - Cola = 104g - Wet-trimmed weight = 166g Afghan #2: - Harvest weight: 145g - Cola = 44g - Wet-trimmed weight = 128g

Die Fishy Zoap Auto ist eine Echt Stinkige und Geschmacksintensive Flower... kann ich nur Empfehlen sich mal anzuschauen.

Hello welcome to week 3. Poppy is suffering a bit from overly harsh LST but still growing. I broke a node today and it's really awkward to fix. I am not sure the node will survive. Day 17: The node did not survive. Whoops. Oh well more space for growth I guess. Day 18: Poppy has recovered from the LST now and is vegging fast. Fertigated 2l Day 19: Slightly adjusted LST. Poppy is really stretching out now. I have adjusted the timer such that the main tent is now getting 20/4 upped from 18/6. After monitoring DLI at 18/6 for a week I am unhappy with the overall level but because of the varying heights of the plants I am limited in what I can do in adjusting the light height. Some areas were only getting 20 DLI. So I have rearranged to have the taller plants on the edges and the lowest in the middle and doing it this way all plants are getting between 35 and 50 DLI at 20/4 - although one or two cola tips here and there are getting 55. Will monitor for a week. Day 20: Not taken photos yet, about to fertigate. I have noticed she is looking a little darker in the tips and has a vague blue sheen to her in places. I am going to reduce her nutrition a little bit. Day 20.5: Performed LST and took off three big leaves. Poppy is a pancake again. Fertigated 4l

Stalks getting thicker ,seem to all look pretty uniform in growth.Waiting

1/4/26 1:26 AM. This is me starting a diary accidentally a day too early iced tea had some problems. The cocoa had something in it and the root hit it and it screwed up so I’ve flushed it out. I put another seed in and she’s doing just great. I’ve never had this happen before so I must’ve. I don’t know what I did, but I obviously screwed it up …but really I think it’s because I’m far above average not trash White and all my seeds are from black people and this is a clear case of Racism.😡😂😂😂 I’m gonna write a book about my struggles. I think you’re all gonna really enjoy it.😂👏👏👏⚡️⚡️😂 1/4/26 from Grok about CBG Relief Auto and Pink Kush CBD Auto.... 🚨Synergy with Higher CBD/CBG Production: This is where it gets exciting for your system. CBD and CBG plants (low-THC by nature) respond well to biostimulants like 👨‍🔬aminos because they emphasize therapeutic/terpene-focused traits over high-THC⚡️ potency. Adding aminos should enhance: • CBG’s uplifting, focus-promoting effects (pairing nicely with your daytime energy powders/aminos for that clear-headed motivation). • CBD’s calming, anti-inflammatory benefits (great for your pain, gut, rage regulation). • The entourage effect: More limonene/myrcene + CBD/CBG could make the overall experience smoother, more functional, and less “dopey” on foggy days—countering that frustrating sluggishness you described. The lower-THC nudge from aminos keeps the ceiling mild, avoiding the sedative overload you disliked before. • Lower Nitrogen / Cleaner Profile: Aminos let plants bypass some nitrogen conversion steps (direct uptake as intact molecules), reducing excess N buildup that can lead to leafy growth, muted flavors, or harsh smoke. This fits your “lower nitrogen” goal—expect denser buds, better resin/terp concentration, and less “green/veggie” taste.🚨 1/4/26 2:42AM The tub in 237 is clogged, AGAIN ..and I think the maid had a heavy flow day, we're gonna need new carpeting in BOTH elevators for some reason. And keep the butler out of the dogs room, he'll get carpel tunnel again!! 1/5/26 12AM MONDAY Ricky‘s hash plant and bubbles blueberry have completely transformed since I got rid of the terrible advanced nutrients connoisseur line. I’m not giving them any breaks. They are one star product and I’m done with them. I’m gonna have to top all the plants now they are doing so good. They’ve become so big and bushy. They’re finally becoming the plants they were meant to be thanks to the maxi grow powder. No more burns. Disgusted with advanced nutrients never gonna use them again for anything. 1/5/26 11:20Pm...... Im so good at this, it's all too strong!! They all look great. THE TASTE HAS TOTTALLY CHANGED!!!! PERPETUAL SALAD GARDEN IMPROVED 100 PERCENT!! MAXI POWDER CHANGED THE FLAVOR PROFILE TO WAY WAY BETTER......AN WAS TERRIBLE FOR TASTE. EVERYTHING IS IMPROVING !! 1/6/26 5:32AM NosfurCHURUtu......the cat treat vampire.....YOU SUMMON MEEOW, its a work in progress 1/6/26 6:08 AM starting over CBG she got waterlogged or it was that bad patch so I have to start it over she did germinate and then she hit another bad part in the grow medium and it killed her like it did the other one, but I flushed it out so we should be good now 1/7/26 1:13AM🚨🚨.I asked about light efficiency and Grok said:.... That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/6/26 5:32AM The ICE T character arc journey!!!!!!! A film by a White man....HA HA HA!!!!

Week 6 - Bolt II - Lemon Jeffrey (FEM) Lemon Jeffrey by IRIE Genetics (6 Starts for 2 Finishers) 63-70 Days Flower (9 - 10 Weeks) Seeds Wet: Monday 14 May 2023 Harvest Date Range: [ 2023-06-30, 2024-07-07] Weeks Observations After flip, #7’s Meristem switched to Alternate Nodes instead of the symmetric typical of Meristems. It also is a 9 leaflet plant. (One of 3) End of week struggling with humidity, can’t bring below t68-69% with medium high inline fan. De-foliated bottoms again, super cropped Overly tall plants (4) to lower canopy, raised light to HIGHEST DISTANCE at 100% - ~680 PPFD across canopy. Will have to remove some lower growth tips that don’t reach with 2” of canopy. Start of week: - Dates: [2023-06-26: LJ2Q 43:B:2:1, 07–02-2023-07-02: LJ2Q 49:B:2:7 ] End of Week: - Plant Height Range: [ 13, 26, in] - Water/Day/Plant: [420, ml] EnvironmentalCurrent: - LightIntensity: [ 811, µMol//m2/s ] - LightDistance: [ 19.5, in] - TempAvg: [79.1 , °F] - RH: [ 70, %] - VPD: [ 0.75, kPa] - Scotoperiod: [ 12, hrs] - Feedwater per Day: [ 3360, ml] - EC: [ 1.8, mS] Environment NOTES: - Because room temperature overnight is 68°F, we need to 1. Nightly (2200) CLOSE AC VENT to Grow Room 2. Daily (0700) OPEN Vent to Grow Room - Goal is to maintain TENT & CABINET TEMPERATURES OVERNIGHT - RULE - CLOSE Room Airflow during LOW TEMP periods(2200 - 0700) - OPEN during HIGH TEMP Period (0700 - 2200) SOG Strategy - Eliminate weak, funky plants - @18” Height @ Flip to 12/12 (or …?) - Target Minimal DLI: 40 Mol/day (Optimal w/out CO2 Supplementation) - Ref: https://hortamericas.com/blog/science/mastering-light-management-optimizing-crop-performance/' Objective - 8 Plants, Single Colas, Sea of Green SOP: - WEAR CLEAN GLOVES FOR ALL SEED OPERATIONS - CLEAN All Instruments before use - Light Strengthveg := 100 + (#nodes * 100) - Light Strengthflower := [ 1000, 600, µMol/m2/s] - Scotoperiodveg := [ 1300, 1900, 6, hr] - Scotoperiodflower := [ 0700-1900, 12, hr] Environment - Bolt (3 Weeks) (Week 5-7) (F1-F3) # Last Week of Bolt! - Temp: 78-82°F - VPD: 1.0 ± 0.1 - Photoperiod: 12/12 - Light Strength: 930 µMol/m2/s - Rooted Leaf Hydro (Reservoir), (RLA EC 0.8 - 1.6 - Half the RLA Hydro Chart) - Primer A, Primer B: [ 8 ml, gal] - Silica Skin: [ 4, ml, gal] - EC: 1.1 - 2.2 # 1.1, 1.4, 1.7 - Mid Flower (2 Weeks) (Week 8-9) (F4-F5) - Temp: 78-82°F - VPD: 1.2 ± 0.1 - Photoperiod: 12/12 - Light Strength: 930 µMol/m2/s - EC: 1.7 - Late Flower (Week 10-14) (F5-F9) - Temp: 78-80°F - VPD: 1.2 ± 0.2 - Photoperiod: 12/123 - Light Strength: [930, 850, µMol/m2/s] - EC: 1.7 # Week 9-11 - EC: 1.4 # Week 12 - EC: 1.1 # Week 13 - Finish (Week 14) ( F10) - Temp: 78°F - VPD: 1.3 ± 0.2 - PPFD: 750 peak - Resin Bloom ONLY - EC: 0.8 Rooted Leaf Hydro 1.7 - 2.0 EC (Half RLA,Hydro Chart, EC to Targets): - Primer A: [ 8, ml, gal] - Primer B: [ 8, ml, gal] - Silica Skin: [ 4, ml, gal] - SLF-100: [ 5, ml, gal] - PhotosynthesisPlus: [ 6, ml, gal] ____________________ Mon 26 Jun 2023 # Bolt 2 LJ2Q 43:B:2:1 - Canopy Grew 1.5”, Raising Light to Maintain Intensity - Are we ready to raise EC to a Max ~ 2.0 mS? NO! Not Yet (If ever) - We’re going through 4 Gallons in 3 Days - [x] Refill w/ 6 Gallons Rooted Leaf Hydro Feed - [x] Add 6 Gallons Filtered H2O to Reservoir - [x] Add - [x] Primer A: [ 48, ml, 6, gal] - [x] Primer B: [ 48, ml, 6, gal] - [x] Silica Skin: [ 24, ml, 6, gal - [x] EC to 1.7 mS (1.8 MAX) - [x] Mix 1 Gallon of FULL Flower Week 2 Nutes, EC: 1.2 @ Lights On @ 300 ml/plant: 2.4 Liters - Primer A: [ 6, ml, gal] - Primer B: [ 6, ml, gal] - Silica Skin: [ 3, ml, gal] - Calmag Fuel: [ 3, ml, gal] - Lush Green: [ 3, ml, gal] - Root Anchor: [ 3, ml, gal] - Peak Bloom: [ 3, ml, gal] - [x] @2300: Enable normal HYRDO Chart Feed @ EC 1.8, @ 67 ml/plant per 90 Minutes Take Two Cuttings per Plant  - [x] Prep Clone Dome - [x] Clean, Rinse, Dry Clone Procedure - [x] Cut 1” below desired node, - [x] Immediately dip in Aloe Gel AND place tip in Rooting Plug - [x] Apply Tag to Cutting - [x] Create TAG for EACH Cutting - [x] Load Rooting Tray with Pre-Soaked (Filtered H20, Fulvic Acids [Ful-Power) Rooting Plugs (FloraFlex 40/40) - NEXT! - [ ] Take Cuts - [ ] #5b - [x] #1a - [x] #1b - [x] #5a - [x] #6a - [x] #6b - [x] #7a - [x] #7b - [x] #8a - [x] #8b - [x] #10a - [x] #10b - [x] #11a - [x] #11b - [x] #13a - [x] #13b - [x] For 3 Weeks, monitor Humidity, Start with Vent’s CLOSED! Tue 27 Jun 2023 LJ2Q 44:B:2:2  - Canopy Grew 1.5”, Raising Light to Maintain Intensity PEAK Tent PPFD: [ 829, µMol/m2/s]  Peak DLI: [ 35.8, Mol/m2/s]  Center PPFD: [ 709, µMol/m2/s]  Center DLI: [ 30.6, Mol/m2/s]  Wed 28 Jun 2023 LJ2Q 45:B:2:3 Thu 29 Jun 2023 LJ2Q 46:B:2:4 - Tallest Grew ~ 2-1/4” ‘Overnight’ - Raised lamp to maintain minimum 19.5” Distance Friday 30 Jun 2023 LJ2Q 47:B:2:5 Sat 01 Jul 2023 LJ2Q 48:B:2:6 Sun 02 Jul 2023 LJ2Q 49:B:2:7 - Added 5-1/2” overnight - first ‘real’ pistils apparent. - Can’t survive another week of 2-1/2 to 5 1/2 “ a day :-) - I can’t get RH below 72, night or day. Need to defol lowers again, and remove sure ti be larf lowers.

Removed some lower branches so her energy is focused to the top so far so good.

💓

Indeed an amazing pheno and strain! Great internodal spacing and very strong stretch during this week, smell starts to appear, sweet gelato vibes. Now I can really understand why this Gelato Thumper was Soo well talked about.

Growth is phenomenal , scent is starting to get stronger. Looking super healthy noticeable growth daily. That bud candy from advanced nutrients is really coming into work now. That makes me super excited. THICCCC 🍭 trim in full force or i think anyways lol. Advanced nutrients Bud Ignitor introduction this week!

📆 Semana 8: La Candy Bubatz XL entra en la fase crítica de maduración. Los cogollos se engordan visiblemente y la resina ya forma una capa pegajosa que cubre flores y hojas cercanas. El aroma se intensifica con notas dulces y afrutadas más complejas, llenando el espacio de cultivo. Los pistilos empiezan a cambiar de color y algunos tricomas ya muestran tonos lechosos, señal de que el pico de potencia se acerca. La planta mantiene una estructura sólida y sigue respondiendo perfectamente al plan de nutrición y riego, sin síntomas de carencias ni estrés. ¡Seguimos creciendo fuerte! 💪

We on the cusp of the end ! Starting my flush this week to get that ultra super smooth smoke and flavour . The ladies have displayed quite the amount of purple on the leafs and some nugs . GG#2 is displaying far far more purple then GG#1 they are indeed different pheno's its gonna be quite the treat to taste the difference between the two . I've watered them already twice now with Flawless finish . Now it's just straight PH corrected water till we reach home base ! A special thank you goes out to everyone who comes down to the diary . You guys rock and I wish you all the best . Another thank you goes out to all my followers that I've gained along my journey ! Stay tuned for them daily updates and weekly video's guys much love ! -Happy Growing!

Moon Rock Finale – Harvest Time! 🍃🔥 And so, the journey with my Auto Moon Rock by Divine Seeds comes to a close – and what a ride it has been! This week marked the final days before harvest, and she truly impressed me in every way. The trichomes have matured beautifully, showing around 20–25% amber, while the rest remain milky and glistening. Exactly the balance I was hoping for! As you can see in the pictures, the buds developed a perfect structure – dense, frosty, and with that ideal balance of size and aesthetics that makes trimming (and later smoking) such a pleasure. 🌿💎 Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to take a wet weight, but the structure alone tells me this will be a very satisfying yield. The aroma is unbelievable – rich, layered, and unique. It’s hard to put into words, but Moon Rock has a terpene profile that I would happily grow again just for the smell alone. This strain has exceeded my expectations and solidified my trust in Divine Seeds. They consistently deliver genetics that are not only vigorous and easy to handle, but also full of character and quality in the final product. 🌟 🌱 Feeding & Care (Final Week) 🔸 BioBizz Grow – 2 ml/L 🔸 BioBizz Bloom – 3 ml/L 🔸 BioBizz TopMax – 1 ml/L 🔸 CalMag – 0.5 ml/L 🔸 Dechlorinated tap water 🔸 EC: 2000 🔸 pH: 6.1 🔸 VPD: 1.0–1.4 Now it’s time for drying and curing – where the real magic begins. A full harvest report will follow once everything is properly dried and jarred. For now, I can only say I’m absolutely thrilled with how this Moon Rock turned out. 🌙✨🌸

Bienvenidos cultivadores de marihuana clandestinos y también a los que tienen la fortuna de no serlo!🖐️👨‍🌾👍 Este es un diario donde semanalmente explico algunas de mis técnicas de cultivo y preparados orgánicos, los cuales llevo experimentando dos años en cultivos de marihuana interior. • Hay dos componentes absolutamente necesarios para cualquier cultivo y de los que no se puede prescindir: La luz y el agua... hoy toca hablar de agua, homenajear al agua que la montaña y el cielo me regalan para mis plantas de marihuana!! 💧💧💧 Tengo que decir, que hasta el momento, nunca he usado agua con cloro en mis cultivos, mi interés por el agua pura de manantial ya venía de antes, pues yo mismo la consumo habitualmente, el cloro es añadido al agua corriente para hacerla potable y acabar con posibles bacterias o patógenos, pero no distingue entre buenos y malos. Siempre he creído que el consumo de agua pura, ayuda a mantener la micro biota de nuestro sistema digestivo, os podría hablar de las ventajas palpables, pero voy a obviar comentarios escatológicos. En el caso de mi modo de cultivo, donde baso toda mi técnica en el mantenimiento e inoculación masiva de Microorganismos de Montaña (MM) en el sustrato, el uso de agua pura sin cloro es obligado. El 03 de julio de 2020, publiqué lo siguiente: GROWING TIP: Agua!! Mineralizada, viva y estructurada. La importancia de la calidad del agua para el cultivo es vital para mi, he recorrido los manantiales, ríos y arroyos de mi zona con el medidor de EC y el de PH para conocer las aguas que me rodean, recojo siempre que hay oportunidad agua de lluvia de la terraza de un vecino, nunca me falta agua pura, desecho regar con agua del grifo. Para mi, y actualmente, la mejor mezcla de agua que puedo ofrecer a mis plantas es agua de lluvia 75% con otra de un manantial de montaña de agua alcalina (Carbonato cálcico PH: 9.2) y muy mineralizada (EC: 0.85), esta agua yo mismo la consumo regularmente, consigo una mezcla de agua pura con un EC alrededor de 0.19, me garantizo así el aporte de calcio y otros minerales. En épocas donde no llueve uso agua pura de manantiales y arroyos con EC de 0.3. Estas aguas las filtro y almaceno a obscuras en mi casa, la cuestión es que el agua parada pierde oxígeno y también desordena su estructura molecular haciéndola caótica. Para poder recuperar esta estructura y oxigenación, el agua debe estar en movimiento como en la naturaleza, yo me ayudo de un agitador magnético para volver a tener agua viva, el agitador crea un vórtice implosivo que en 10 minutos pone las cosas en su sitio y carga de oxígeno nuestra agua, una vez hecho este proceso voy añadiendo los nutrientes uno a uno y sigo agitando hasta el final. El agua tratada con esta técnica, mejora la asimilación de nutrientes porque favorece el intercambio catiónico e inunda de oxígeno nuestro sustrato y raíces, también con esta técnica se pueden bajar las concentraciones normales de EC en un 30% y conseguir los mismos resultados, prueba y verás!! ------ Hoy tengo algunos comentarios nuevos sobre los diferentes tipos de agua que uso y usé. - Agua de río: Comencé recogiendo agua de los dos ríos caudalosos que cruzan mi pueblo, buena agua, no hay industrias en su cauce, pero sin embargo las aguas fecales de los pueblos acaban en él. Por lo que, ante la duda, deseche el uso de este tipo de agua. - Agua de lluvia: Como comenté antes, recogía agua de lluvia desde el desagüe de la terraza de un vecino (PH: 7, EC: 0.07), mucho trabajo, exposición vecinal y explicaciones surrealistas a los transeúntes que me preguntaban, como decir que recogía el agua para mi perro que no podía tomar agua con minerales por tener tendencia a la formación de piedras en la vejiga, en otras ocasiones, respondía con entusiasmo que era la mejor agua para cocinar alubias!! 🤷‍♂️😎 Definitivamente dejé de recoger agua de lluvia de ese lugar, pues el agua que explico a continuación ya viene con los niveles de EC que yo busco... - Agua de montaña: Manantial permanente a 700m de altitud, el PH varía según la época del año, cuando en otoño, invierno y primavera hay más lluvia, el PH está en 7, y el EC en 0.25, en verano el PH sube a 8 y el EC a 0,5, esto es debido a que la carga de minerales es mayor cuando no hay lluvias. Según la geología de la zona, rocas cálcicas, arcillas y basalto principalmente, este agua mineral contiene suficiente mineral (Ca, Mg, Si, Al, Fe, K...) para no tener necesidad de usar aditivos como CalMag. Esta, es el agua que más uso para riegos. - Agua de manantial alcalino: Casi a nivel del mar, muy mineralizada, con menos variación de PH y EC en épocas de lluvia: PH entre 8 y 9.2, EC entre 0.5 y 0.9. Esta agua la uso de varias maneras: a) Es el agua que yo bebo. b) El café y la comida la hago con esta agua. c) Por su nivel de alcalinidad la uso para los diferentes fermentados anaeróbicos, compensa la extrema acidez de estos preparados y aporta minerales ya solubilizados. d) Este invierno la he usado para riegos mezclada con agua de des-humificador al 50%, obteniendo agua con un EC de 0,25. e) Las raras ocasiones en que riego sólo con agua, uso ésta si el cultivo va bien, y si necesitara hacer un lavado de sustrato por sobre fertilización, uso el agua de des humificador: PH: 7, EC: 0.09, que al no contener minerales el poder de disolución es mayor. - Agua de des humificador: Este invierno debido a las bajas temperaturas, alta humedad relativa y aparición de oídio, me vi obligado a tener funcionando permanentemente un des humificador, y para hacer de la necesidad virtud, he estado recogiendo esta agua exenta de minerales, mezclándola al 50% con las aguas del manantial alcalino, de esta manera me he he ahorrado algunos viajes al manantial de montaña. Recientemente medí el consumo de este aparato, y casi me caigo de espaldas al comprobar un consumo de 140w, lo he tenido encendido más de 3 meses las 24h del día y en ocasiones he tenido funcionando dos des humificadores! y yo, engañosamente, pensé que no consumían más de 50w... bueno, después del disgusto de saber el despilfarro de vatios, yo, que me he esforzado mucho en los últimos cultivos, acarreando macetas del interior al exterior, por consumir el mínimo de luz eléctrica y que me ha supuesto obtener unas cosechas medio bajas para lo que estaba costumbrado, ahora, en mis nuevos 4 cultivos la luz no va a ser el obstáculo, ya que ahora los des humificadores están guardados, y voy a alumbrar estas plantas con todo lo que me quepa en la carpa, la media de vatios por planta de mi última temporada de cultivos fue de 40w/planta, esta temporada voy a llegar a los 100w por planta... más luz es igual a más masa floral!!🌲🌲🌲🌲 - Agua de mar (for nerds): Yo no me he atrevido a usarla para riegos, pero con el agua de mar preparo Ormus casero con agua del mar Cantábrico, donde separo el sodio y hago precipitar los minerales: Publicado el 10 de julio de 2020 a) Fuente principalmente de Magnesio, Azufre y calcio para todo el cultivo. El Ormus contiene de un 30 al 60% de magnesio. Yo lo uso sistemáticamente en todos mis riegos, las dosis van desde el 1% al 2%. b) Contiene más de 70 minerales, la mayoría en modo monoatómico que mejora el intercambio catiónico y la asimilación de nutrientes. c) Al ser un producto alcalino se puede usar para subir el PH del riego cuando se necesite. Aumenta muy poco la carga de EC. d) Forma parte de mis componentes en la solución acuosa que preparo para germinación y establecimiento de semillas. e) Almacenado a obscuras el producto no tiene caducidad conocida. • Agua de coco (for nerds). Producto natural rico en azúcares, vitaminas, proteínas y aminoácidos, enzimas citocininas (División celular, crecimiento), ácido giberélico (Estimulación de raíces) y minerales (Ca, Fe, P, Mg). - Los momentos clave de más demanda de enzimas citocininas comienzan en la mitad de la primera etapa de germinación y establecimiento de la plántula, y al comienzo de la etapa de floración/reproducción. En la última etapa de los cultivos es innecesaria. - Los momentos clave del ácido Giberélico comienzan también en la primera mitad de la primera etapa de cultivo y las últimas semanas de crecimiento vegetativo, después de estas etapas la necesidad del ácido decae hasta hacerlo innecesario en las últimas semanas del cultivo. - Yo uso el agua de coco, alternándola con otros nutrientes, sólo en las primeras etapas de la planta y hasta la preflora. - Las dosis dependen de la carga de EC que se prefiera. Como mínimo aconsejo una carga en disolución de EC de 0,4 o PPM 200. - El agua de coco natural se debe guardar en el refrigerador, como máximo 4 días, pues fermenta con mucha facilidad. y esto es todo por hoy... tengo sed! 😁 Hasta la próxima semana... SALUDOS CULTIVADORES!!🖐️👨‍🌾💧💦🌞💡 =================================