Growing good. But I can not stand a strain that foxtails, to me it's just ugly. And these are deffently starting to foxtail. But otherwise it's a gorgeous plant. Hopefully the smoke quality will make up for it. It won't be much longer untill chop day. Thanks for checking out my grow .

7/4 SUN was poking out a little bit. Plants loved that little feeding and seen to he noticeable larger this morning. I'm considering starting the nutes. At least the organic ones as well as upping the water intake I've been scared to water with all this rain and my experience last time. I plan on applying BT this afternoon and doing some work on the bottoms of the plants. I also saw a chipmunk in my cage so I have some spots in my fence that need to be patched. I know I can't compare this year to orher years as these are seeds and all the other years were clones. I CAN say for certain that my plants are healthiest they've been out of any of my journals. Previous plants were much larger but I was fighting numerous fungal, pathogens and pests at the sane time. Ear wigs would've lollipopped most buddies by now but I've seen no sign of them. I'm going to apply more poison where they were and add some rat traps inside the cage for the chipmunks. Once I fix the cage I think I'll be good. UPDATE: Went back over and fixed the holes on my cage from high winds. I found an old wire trap or cage and just cut sections and ziptied them to the existing wire and to the structure thus covering any open holes. I'll need to put lathes aroubdvtge outside because if a rodent REALLY wanted in they could get in. My belt had been wearing thin but I use shit until it breaks (yesterday the heal came off my shoe lol) so I was working hard sweating my nuts off and my belt gives out totally. At least ive got the major stuff done. I took a few videos too. I'm imagining it was this little bit of sun that gave these plants that boost of growth but I'm wondering if the added nutes had anything to do with it. Bags weren't light and I could feel moisture in the soil so I didn't water. I'll check again tomorrow morning. Since I didn't see many plants or even leaves for that matter with damage I decided to hold off ob the BT and the plant doctor. Only time will tell if that was the right decision. 7/5 Plants look fantastic. I see a few more holes in leaves sporadically amd I'm hoping it's pillars. I've seen lots of lightning bugs on my camera though and grasshoppers are abundant. Not one growth shoot has been chewed (knock on wood) which is what the earwigs had always done. I watched a video from last year and by nowcthey had lollipopped all lower leaves. It may not be the best weather growing season wise but despite the rh consistently in the 90's I still don't have pm or fungal pathogens. Need to get the BT out. Didn't water as we've had all that rain. I'll water either tonight or tomorrow morning. Sunny high in the 90s low is 66. Tomorrow looks good too. UPDATE WENT BACK OVER AROUND FIVE. IT WAS 88 DEGREES SO I WANTED TO CHECK THE GROW BAGS. THE POTS ARE FINE. IT WAS HUMID AS HELL. ONE PLANT WAS SLIGHTLY DROOPY BUT VERY LIGHT AND DRY. I FOUND TWO OTHERS THAT SEEMED LIGHTER THAN THE REST BUT HADNT DROOPED. I MIXED TWO GALLONS OF WATER WITH 1TSP KANGOROOTS AMD PHED IT CLOSE TO 6. I FED THE 3 PLANTS THAT WERE SUPER DRY LIKE A HALF GALLON AND SPRED THE REST OVER THE OTHER EIGHT PLANTS. THEY WERENT DROOPING BUT THEY WERE VERY DRY. I PLAN ON A FULL WATER TOMORROW. I WOULDVE DONE IT TODAY IF THE TEMPS WERENT SO HIGH. ITS RAINED A MONTH STRAIGHT SO I HAVENT HAD TO WATER. I MADE A COUPLE VIDEOS BUT I'LL HAVE TO UPLOAD TOMORROW. 7/6 Another super hot day. I hefted the pots and they still had some weight but I could tell they were dry. This rain has messed up my watering schedule. Well it made it so I didn't NEED to water. These are big plants now. I need to get a schedule to stick too. They're going to probably need a gallon a piece at least. I'm still nervous watering. Right now I'm just reading the plants. I added .5tsp kelp me/you to 1 gallon of water to help with heat stress. I fed an additional two gallons to the garden this morning including the two container plants in the back. They were dry on top too but I know they have water deeper down. Next watering I'll be more consistent and try to give them there 10%. It's great having the bags elevated. I can finally see when I start getting run off. I could even measure the ph of it instead of relying on that meter. Ill check the ph when I go back over. Still a few 🐛 holes but they are few and far between. I really don't want to spray for such a small problem but if I cant find them at night that's what I'll do. UPDATE: Another 90 degree day. I went back over and gave the garden a gallon of water as they were dry and it didn't rain. Tried to use a soil ph meter to check ph. First couple were 6.4, 6.5 then I got 7.3 and I accidently dropped it. Then I got somethings that were high eights and even one 9! Obviously the Meter shit the bed. I'll lower the ph of the water slightly when I fully water tomorrow and I'm going to measure the runoff. 7/8 I must've messed up the journal again as the dates are off. GAVE PLANTS A FULL WATERING. Each girl got a gallon. I couldn't upload my videos this morning as I had to break up a fight. 3 on 1. Didn't give me a chance to put the videos up. I'll take some stills then I can upload them. I took stills and they all uploaded but didn't fucking save. I'm nit going to keep trying to upload if it's not going to. Noticed a few more holes in leaves and one skeletinized leaf so I need to either spray the bt or something more versatile. I'm putting more poison around the cage and de between the bags. I'll go check things out tonight. Sick of writing a book and uploading to just hace them disappear 7/9 Did a quick video today. Noticed the bags were fairly light despite the plants being soaked amd the pallets wet. I was pressed for time. I gave two gallons to the entire garden. I hope that will hold them over until tomorrow. I'll need to up how much water I give them. Going with a gallon and a half next time. I see more pillar spots and a moth took off when I shook the plants this morning. So I'm gonna have too apply the BT. I figure if I go over before dark tonight I might be able to see aju nocturnal insects around. Luckily my dad feeds the birds and they are always there. I think they help with pests. UPDATE IT WAS A LITTLE COOLER TODAY BUT MICH MORE HUMID. I WENT AROUND SIX TO MAKE SURE THE GIRLS WERE OK WITH WATER AND TO GIVE THEM A TREATMENT OF BT. I WENT THROUGH THE GARDEN ANDCGOUND THREE LEQVES TO DEFOLIATE AND LITERALLY A COUPLE LEAVES ON TWO PLANTS WITH PILLAR HILESM WHEN I ARRIVED TWO BIRDS FLEW OUT. A HORNET CAME IN WHILE I WAS THERE. THIS DO LESS APPROACH SEEMS TO BE REALLY WORKING. I DODNT SEE NEARLT ENOUGH DAMAGE TO WARRANT SPRAY8NG MY EXTREMELY HEALTHY GIROS WITH ANYTHING. ILL KEEP AN EYE ON THEM AND CLEAN THEM UP A BIT. I DO NEED TO INSTALL THE VERY8CAL TRELLIS FOR SUPPORT. THEYRE PRETTY HEALTHY THOUGH. ONE PLANT IS ABOUT AS WIDE AS IT IS TALL. STILL......PLANTS ARE EXPLODING AND ITS GETTING TIGHT IN THERE. I NEED TO GET THE TRELLIS UP THOUGH. 7/10 I went over and was planning to water. Plants were wet and it's raining. Top of the medium was moist but the bags were light. ONE bag was super light but seeing that we are having showers all day and an additional half inch of rain coming tonight so I didn't water them. Especially since they looked great. Decided to to spray BT yet as the damage is so small and i think the birds have been taking care of the pillars for me. Now I'm wondering if I should've gave that ONE plant a little bit of water but it will be find. Did a video. I'm being careful not to over water. Last year this is when all my buddies were devoured by earwigs. And no senescence like the years before. I think it was hust those earwigs. I haven't lost shot for leaves. Even the stalks are bright green and look amazing.

He who stops is lost, as an old saying goes I don't know exactly what the origins are, so here's a new Zamnesia season. We are in the middle of winter and despite growing in an area that isn't the warmest in Europe, it's really cold now. It's 16-18 degrees Celsius in the house and we need to bring the temperature of the propagator growbox between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius. So we first placed a layer of those 1 cm thick "rubberized" floors that are used for gyms, they are easily found on Amazon and are very useful for insulation. Then a heated resistance mat and then the closed propagator on top. Inside with our seedlings and the light on at minimum 20% we reached 24 degrees, not bad in fact the germination is proceeding very well. 100% opening of the seeds in water and almost all of them are opening in our biodegradable peat pots. ----- Our Rainbow Sherbet has a beautiful package of seeds, colorful that really makes you want to grow it. The genetic conditions are all there and at birth everything went smoothly like hemp oil. If you have placenta problems read below. It is an indica predominance if it does well we will send it to the AWC competition and see what happens. WARNING: Placenta Problems ---- ALWAYS look very carefully at the seedlings, if the seed or the placenta prevent the opening of the cotyledon leaves the plant dies after a while. Remove it delicately as if it were a condom or almost. I apologize for the example but it gives the idea to remove slowly delicately please. WARNING: If you choose biodegradable pots choose the largest possible and not paper/cardboard ones there are peat which is the main component of most of the soil we use. If you want to avoid transmitting vibrations to your neighbors I recommend you install one of these gym floors under your growboxes, I did it and I also feel safer not to disturb. They are easily found on Amazon in different thicknesses, I took a gym model that is assembled like a puzzle, they are also found in children's shops, they are those floors that are assembled to make children play safely, or to train and to avoid vibrations from equipment or of any kind. Everything will be grown Plagron Pro Mix with 100% fertilizers let's start with Power Roots 1 Ml/l Plagron fertilizers are available on Zamnesia in convenient Pack formats for all growing styles. I used this with a simple search you can find the other products. ---- https://www.zamnesia.io/en/12119-plagron-top-grow-box-100-natural.html Try a seed of this strain that drives us crazy... ---- https://www.zamnesia.io/en/11230-zamnesia-seeds-rainbow-sherbet-automatic.html Zamnesia Description // A cross between Pink Guava, Sunset Sherbet and a hint of ruderalis, Rainbow Sherbet Auto offers a wide range of flavours, effects and more. This 70% indica-dominant strain reaches considerable THC levels (24%) and is suitable for both experienced growers and those taking their first steps in the world of cannabis cultivation. Growbox and Air System - Secret Jardin DS120w + fans + Exhaust fans and filters DF16 kit Light - Viparspectra P2000 https://www.viparspectra.com/products/viparspectra%C2%AE-2024-updated-p2000-200w-led-grow-light-with-daisy-chain-function ---- www.zamnesia.com

Day 57 - The girls are bursting with flower....... looked abit light (the main tops looked a light green, showed signs of nutrient deficiencies), so upped the Dutch Master Gold One Flower, it's 1000 ppm now.... thinking about Defoliation... outside temperatures are middle of winter, 0oC to 20oC (32oF to 70oF) .... but typical high low is 5-15oC (40-60oF)......... surprisingly the LED's warm the tent upto 20-24oC, this is important point.... i am running the lights, 6 pm to 6 am... 12hrs lights on all night, and all day is night mode...... during the day is the highest temps of the day... and during the lowest temps, they have the light heat ....... Day 61 - I trimmed em .... this was the third defoliation..... things are starting to get sticky..... ah i'm just going to wing it.... they are 2 months (8 wks) from seed.... idk what i'm doing....... i did some serious stress bending today, and had to put afew tie downs in..... my theory is to hurt em as much as i can without killin em.... to make em harder, stronger, faster, more stressed, so they can survive anything..... grow em stronger...... the smell is zero in the home, but once i got them out for their 2 week haircut, they started producing some strong wet kisses, that were sticky and wet.... the aroma of heavenly ladies was abundant...... 😎😎 idk... this tastes so good.... it's like some kind of weird berry combo goodness.... i'm vaping vanilla custard atm and this is so good with vanilla custard.... vanilla custard kush n cookies... haha watch the video......... 😎

6/13/25 everything is coming along smoothly for the black opium autos. I had to pick a seed shell off of the more scraggly looking one but they’re green and happy In their environment. 6/15/25 day 3 and there's noticeable growth Stay tuned for what comes next. Also check out my X account and YouTube for any extras that I can’t post here. I have a full seed planting video on YouTube of these strains, that is too Long to post on here.

Day 69 (March 6th) Just gave everyone their last watering. I’m going to harvest and wash everything tomorrow night on day 70. I‘m not going to do that whole 48 hours of darkness thing because I didn’t see a difference last time I did it. In fact, it made my plant under watered before drying which caused it to dry too fast. Slurricane and cheese will be washed with h2o2 and the rest will just be rinsed off in warm RO water and hung up. Before and after washing I’m going to go over each branch with a flashlight and make sure there is no dog hair or debris in or on the buds. I will be drying in my spare bathroom (that no one uses!) from hangers. Aiming to keep it around 60-62F and 50-60 RH. Hoping for that 10-12 day dry. I wanted to do a full plant hang but the tent got pretty dirty and I would feel more comfortable just cutting and rinsing everything off branch by branch. I’m going to try my best to keep the full plant intact. Got my humidifier hooked up and running RO water because with tap water it deposits calcium and lime all over the buds and walls. For air flow I’m just indirectly running a small usb fan. I’m not worried about air flow in the bathroom honestly. It stays nice and breezy down there anyway. Got the food grade peroxide and RO water to wash up the slurricane and cheese. Everything except for the cheese and garlic#1 is looking more than done. Trichomes all look pretty well done. Some of them have even burst open. Smells are all super ripe and mature too. Can’t wait to smell each individually in jars. Next week I will recap what went wrong and what I will do differently next time to keep it from happening again. (Day 70F) Just got everything chopped, washed and hanging. The vast majority of the PM was washed out but I can still see very small amounts. When they dry out I can shake the branches a bit to get the rest off. At very least it’s sterile now. There is no question I lost some potency while washing but the amount is negligible for a much cleaner product. I could see lots of dirt and other debris float to the surface of the water after being washed. And no those are not trichomes, those sink to the bottom. I could put that nasty water through a bubble bag and wouldn’t get all that much. Although it probably does remove a lot of the actual trichomes heads. I’ll have to check with the microscope. Everything is rigged up for a nice slow dry. Temp is sitting at 64 and RH is at a nice 60%.

This will go down as one of my favorite harvests to date. The rosin produced from this flower is so strong it had me TOO high lol

So since I had the mold and bud rot problems I had to divide my schedule of harvest and divide the product as well. - Healthy buds are ones belonging to branches where there are no signs of rot/mold. -Mid-healthy buds are untouched by disease but still belonging to a branch where there was some disease. -Last category are the salvaged ones, where I cut them from bigger buds that had disease or they were in some part affected. These 3 categories each have their own drying space and where harvested in this order to prevent spreading of spores and stuff. For the salvaged buds every time I removed a part with disease I cleaned the scissors with alcohol. I only removed the sun-leaves + penguin leaves and will be doing a dry trim for the sugar leaves later on.

They are starting to shoot some pistils. I added some random store fertilizer that is 1-4-7 and put it in the 3 gallon. I poured it in a water bottle and just eye balled it pretty slow and not for long. It seems to help

She’s getting frosty and dank 👃🍪🍊🍓🍰🍌🍒🍇🍭👃 Day 29 almost half way , happy with all the phenos so far all frosty so many terps .. started feed the canna nutrients plants canna pk1314 .. 2 flush’s Got the remo plants all most on the proper Ec again

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Das war es für sie wir sehen uns in 2 Wochen wieder.

Buenas tarde familia, actualizamos el diario de las skunk de Zambezaseeds, y es que estoy tan sorprendido , es una cepa que produce flores muy muy compactas, sigue floreciendo con lo cual sigo regándolas solo agua ajustando el ph a 6,5 . Temperatura y humedad dentro de los parámetros, 1/3 anda algo sobre fertilizada de las últimas semanas las 2/3 están como la seda , aún así todo pinta fenómeno tengo muchas ganas de cosechar y probar esta variedad y ya queda menos , pasen buen finde semana fumetillas.

Just winding down. Gonna go lights off for a day or two now at week 10. Tangerine dream are close to done and grape ape are throwing bananas for past week so it’s time.

Looking pumpy very frosty closing weeks

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

The plant is beautiful but she will give a poor harvest, smell is citrus and pungent like the GG4 usually is with gassy notes 🔥 I look forward to smoke it and hope one day to have the Exotic Genetics seeds to grow 💚

Le stretch est vraiment ridicule, je voulais que ça monte jusqu'en haut... Tant pis... En tout cas la flo est lancée 😁 Dans l'ordre: 1) Afghan Peach x Blue Monkey 2) Gelato Cake 3) Fast Critical Poison 4) Tropical Fuel 5) Hindu Kush 6) (Blueberry x Black Domina) X (Kosher Kush x Mk-Ultra) 7) Blueberry 8) Herz OG 9) (Blueberry x Black Domina) X (Kosher Kush x Mk-Ultra)