Week 3 for AK Triple Haze by supersativaseedclub, This girl in the natureslivingsoil is absolutely exploding for her age, she got 2 heavy doses of water this last week. I think she will be massive by next week if this growth stays up at this rate. 😍 Getting some nice long side branches still with no LST. Another one of those strains that every time i open the tent she's done some growing 😂

Thirsty bitches

11/12 start of week 3 of flower hoping she is done stretching cus I'm out of room when it comes to height. Gave all the goodies plus added Fulpower and molasses 11/14 stretching seems to have stopped. Dropped humidity and raised vpd to stay around 1.5 and raised light intensity so it's 1000 ppfd at top of plant

At the beginning of week 5 they all look a bit small and bushy to me. But let's see.. .Maybe they get a little kick and grow during the first weeks of the flowering phase, which we've now entered :) I cut a really small amount of leaves that were touching the ground on the auto bending one.And I started giving them two additional hours of light. Hope they like it. UPDATE: I had to start defoliation because the leaves were so bushy that they were getting wet in between... Hope this helps : And hope they get a little taller...

10th week begins! Only water. My cat is in love with this plant 😻😹 This week, just like last week, I wasn't able to take many photos because I had some commitments to, so I was away from home.

This lady got cut down on day 64, she has some beautiful colors & a very distinctive smell! The buds are all around good size nugs and very hard, can’t wait to see how she turns out! I definitely recommend going to check out Bomb seeds & getting yourself some fire genetics! Will do a harvest post as soon as she is finished drying & I get a weight! Thanks for following & happy growing!

The first week after the flip. What I have been working on is bringing Gelato's soil pH up. Gelato was given water at 6.5 pH and the run off was measuring 5 pH (yikes.) After flushing with 3 gallons of water at 8 pH, the soil pH was still measuring 5 pH. The reaction the plant had tho after the flush was positive, which is to say, no more burning or yellowing leaf tips 5 days post flush. Sour Diesel and Do Si Dos were fed VEG nutrients at 50% strength ( 1.5 tsp Big Bloom and 1.5 tsp Grow Big.) and the pH of the liquid was 6.5. Everyone is looking good. Because it is only the first week of flower, "the stretch" is yet to be seen.

7/4 she's taking well to the training 7/5 its so hot out here its 105F and 19% 7/7 5ml grow 5ml

🌸🍏✨🍭🌸🍏✨🍭🌸🍏✨🍭🌸 Hi and welcome to another Kannabia grow! This time I’m running their Apple Fritter (feminized photoperiod). She’s going to veg under 24hr light and be manifolded. Still cleaning the rest of my Candy Cream GF (11.04.25) — going to sow the seed tomorrow (12.04.25) *been lazy, sowed on 14.04.25 🌸🍏✨🍭🌸🍏✨🍭🌸🍏✨🍭🌸 --- 💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭 ❗Events & thoughts worth noting❗ 💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭 12.04.25 (GW1) – Cleaning + flushing the old coco coir. Might need to add another brick. *No new brick needed ✅ This is how I recycle my coco coir — fast, cheap, no BS. 🌿 Harvest plant ✂️ Chop roots small — they stay in for structure (organic perlite) 💦 Hot water rinse — remove salts & dust 🍶 Pre-soak with light feed:   Micro 10ml   Bloom 0ml   GreenBuzz 10ml   Cal-Mag 60ml   FFJ/FPJ 10ml (new disgusting batch)   pH down (citric acid) ♻️ Media stays — Roots stay — Back in service. 14.04.25 (GW1) – Planted seed in final pot ✅ 16.04.25 (GW1) – Did last tent clean up + setup ✅📸 17.04.25 (GW1) – Seed germinated 🎉📸 — roughly 48hrs in final pot. Solid start👌♥️ 23.04.25 (VW1) – Minimal burnt tips 📸 — not progressing, not a concern. 26.04.25 (VW1) – Started using the new batch of FPJ/FFJ https://growdiaries.com/diaries/266849-grow-journal-by-yan402 30.04.25 (VW2) – Increased TriPartMicro & GreenBuzzBloom 10ml → 15ml 03.05.25 (VW2) – Increased TriPartMicro again 15ml → 20ml, topped the plant, and added final layer of clay pebbles around the base, trimmed side branches and did LST in preparation for "manifold" 📸 08.05.25 VW3 finished manifold📸 13.05.25 VW4 Increased TriPartMicro to 30ml and GreenBuzzBloom to 20ml. 15.05.25 VW4 Done defoliation and LST 📸 18-19.05.25 VW5 pruned all the shoots bellow my "mains" and did a full defoliation📸 24.05.25 VW6 increased GreenBuzzBloom to 30ml 04.06.25 VW7 did a cleanup📸 11.06.25 VW8 increase TriPartMicro to 40ml 17.06.25 (VW9) – Final structure pass 💈🌿 Did a clean perimeter prune + removed weak shoots. Ended up with 12 tops, was aiming for less, but she made the call Didn’t fight it, just shaped it the best I could Airflow’s good, structure’s stable 🛑 No more cuts until post-stretch Pics coming shortly 😘 Flip coming soon — we’ll see how she handles it. 20.06.25 VW9 Switched lighting to 12 hours, may the stretch begin 🤞 22.06.25 VW10 Did a good LST session,made some pics, and came to some conclusions and a small change of plans: Originally planned for 8 mains — long, spaced colas and maybe a couple stronger “titans” if she wanted to go that way. But she’s showing me something else, and I’m not here to fight her — just guide her. Now after stretch, I’m keeping side shoots only if they: Fill real canopy gaps Don’t crowd neighboring tops (minimum 15cm spacing) Aren’t growing into walls or toward the next plant Anything too close, too low, or heading into shade gets removed. No point forcing it. Looks like I’ll finish with 14–16 solid tops, depending on how she settles. I’m just trying to give each one enough light and space to stack properly. No overcrowding, no larf — just letting her do her thing with a bit of structure. Increased Tri Part Micro to 50ml as well. 28.06.25 VW11 one week since I flipped to 12/12 and she is stretching nicely, a bit shy in showing pistils compared to the Fantasy Feast regulars I have in the same tent. 29.06.25 VW11 increased GreenBuzzBloom 30→ 60ml 06.07.25 FW1 TriPart Micro: 50→ 30ml TriPart Bloom: 0 → 20ml Home-made FFJ/FPJ (Watermelon + Pumpkin): 10 → 30ml 12.07.25 FW1 GreenBuzzBloom 60 →40ml, TriPart Bloom: 20 → 60ml, fpj 30→60ml 19.07.25 FW3 Got some bleached tops, been out and about at job interviews and didn't notice a last minute stretch spurt 😭, should recover fine though plenty of time left 😁 22.07.25 FW3 TriPartMicro 30→20ml , TriPartBloom 60→80ml , GreenBuzzBloom 40→50ml 24.07.25 FW3 Cal-Mag 60→40ml 26.07.25 got thrips but handled them with extra airflow and defoliation. 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 🌿 Day to day tasks & actions 🌿 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 26.07.25 FW3 – Fed 5l of #1 50% strength→ 2l runoff (*RUNOFF reused for tomato plants) 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 Nutrients in 30L #1 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 TriPart Micro: 10 → 15 → 20 → 30 → 40 → 50ml → 30 → 20ml (0.67ml/L) 🍶 TriPart Grow: 0ml (0.00ml/L) 💧 TriPart Bloom: 0 → 20 → 60 → 80ml (2.67ml/L) 🍶 GreenBuzz Bloom: 10 → 15 → 20 → 30 → 60 → 40 → 50ml (1.67ml/L) 💧 Cal-Mag: 60→40ml (1.33ml/L) 🍶 Home-made FFJ/FPJ (new batch): 10 → 30 → 60ml (2.00ml/L) 💧 pH Down: Citric acid (buxXtrade) 📦 TOTAL: 250ml per 30L 🔬 8.33ml/L 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 ⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ ✂️ Tools & equipment ✂️ ⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ ✂️ 2× MarsHydro SP3000 ⚙️ MarsHydro 150mm ACF Ventilator ✂️ Trotec dehumidifier (big unit) ⚙️ Mini no-name dehumidifier ✂️ Kebab skewers (LST – stainless) ⚙️ Wire + roast skewers (LST assist) ✂️ Scissors (HST) ⚙️ Vacuum (for spills & cleanup) ✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ --- 🍏🍪🌬️🍬🍏🍪🌬️🍬🍏🍪🌬️🍬 Apple Fritter (Kannabia Seeds) 🍏🍪🌬️🍬🍏🍪🌬️🍬🍏🍪🌬️🍬 Species: 50% Indica / 50% Sativa Genetics: Sour Apple × Animal Cookies THC: Up to 25% Effect: Euphoric, relaxing, creative Flavor: Sweet, fruity, pastry notes Flowering: 56–63 days Resistance: High Indoor yield: 450–500g/m² Outdoor yield: 600g/plant Structure: Strong, bushy, dense buds

🌱 Day 57 - Start of the Second-to-Last Flowering Week 🌱 Hello, Grow Friends! Today marks the start of the second-to-last flowering week—Week 9 overall, and Week 5 of flowering. 🌿 I’m getting more and more excited as my first grow nears its end. As I approach harvest, I’ve decided, based on my research, to stop feeding nutrients and stick to just pH-adjusted water for the final two weeks. 💧⚖️ Watering Routine: I’ll keep the same watering schedule—1 liter every two days, which is about 10% of the pot volume. 🌱💧 This should be enough to flush out the remaining nutrients, ensuring a clean finish for the plant. Temperature & Humidity: The temperature remains stable between 19-23°C, which I believe is ideal for this stage of the grow. 🌡️🍂 No more high temperatures to worry about! The humidity is fluctuating between 45-58%, and I’m keeping a close eye on it to stay below 60%. 💧🔍 Everything seems on track for now. 🌿 Plant Health & Growth: The plant still looks very healthy overall. 🌱💪 However, I’ve noticed that in the past three days, there haven’t been any visible changes in the size of the buds. 🤔 It could just be that I’m not seeing the growth clearly, but the only noticeable change is the daily opening of new flower calyxes. 🌸 Harvest Preparation: I’m already getting my equipment ready for drying after harvest. 🛠️ Once it’s time to cut, I’ll be hanging the plant to dry for the first 10 days. 🌿✂️ I want to make sure everything is set for a smooth drying process. Stay tuned for more updates, and as always, daily photos of the plant will be posted! 📸🌱 Day 62 - Last-Minute Decisions with Urgent Changes 🌱 Hello, my grow friends! Due to the trichome pictures I took on Day 61—which you can check out too—I’ve made an unexpected decision to harvest my plant a bit earlier than planned and make some changes. 🌿 Watering and Flushing: The last time I watered was on Day 61, using all the usual nutrients at the doses I mentioned before. But after seeing the trichome pictures, I decided to start a light flush today. I gave the plant 4 liters of plain water to begin flushing and will now only water lightly on Day 64. After that, no more water until harvest on Day 67. 🌑 Dark Period: From Day 66 to Day 67, I plan to keep the plant in darkness. I’m not entirely sure if this will make a difference, but I’m curious to try it out. ✂️ Defoliation: The plant is doing well, and I’ve done a thorough defoliation. I removed all leaves that aren’t sugar leaves or directly attached to the buds to improve air circulation and reduce the risk of mold as I approach the end of the grow. 💭 Trimming Decisions: I’m still undecided about whether to do a wet trim or a dry trim. Based on what I’ve read, especially regarding the yield from trim, I’m leaning towards dry trimming, as it might give me more usable trim material. I can feel the plant entering its final phase, and I’m getting really excited about the results and what the next few days will bring. Remember, I post a video update every day. If you have any tips or suggestions, I’d love to hear them! Until next time! 🌱

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

Day 7 - lollipopping and light LST Still slow to flower like the double grape. Still expecting big buds

after lots of screw ups and rescues, res changes , ph research and advice from respected growers , it feels things are on the way in the right direction. The girls have been through a lot and now seem over the worst . Reading and listening to the logic behind keeping the P.H at 6.2 for RDWC seedlings and young plants to help with heat stress and also to lessen the stress of cal and mag issues. It has been a great sucess here and the first night they fed the most they have since i set this up. They are looking very green and healthy where new growth has been happening. the roots are getting bigger and longer and i can see why people talk about the roots so much . lol. i did think i had got root rot due to losing some roots into the tubs but this was due to the damamge from feeding too strong. the suspected root rot was from the Golden tree and was actually working wonders on te dead roots. . onward and upward .

8 hours to start in a glass of water. Then transferred into paper towel. Will put into seed pod once tap root starts. Imperium X THC: 36% Yield Indoor : 500 gr/m2 Height Indoor: 120-140 cm Flowering time: 9-10 weeks Genetic Background: (City of God x The White Angel) x Future #1 Type: 60% Sativa, 40% Indica Flavor: Pineapple, Sandal

420Fastbuds FBT2310/Week2 Weekly update for these 2. I started seeing some rust spots so I decided to add a little General Hydroponics Calimagic at 0.25tsp/gal to my feed. So far seems to stop. I also decided to start a very light dose of nutes General Hydroponics 3 part flora series at the same 0.25tsp/gal to every other feed to see how they'll respond. All in all Happy Growing.

Medium Coco 3.3 gal (66%) or 3 gal(60%) Perlite 1.2 gal (24%) or 1.5 gal (30%) Worm Castings .5 gal (10%) Gaia 15 tbsp 4-4-4 / 2-8-4 Epsom salt 2 tbsp Myco - 1 tbsp Sat for about 2 weeks before seeds went in and developed some mold I guess that means decomposition started. I moved the dirt around dunno if i should’ve done that lol. *** FAIL *** Germination : 10/7 2pm wet paper towel + Myco All 6 seeds popped but I cooked them while trying to keep warm…RIP 420 mystery pack Germination I0I6 6:30 pm glass of room temp tap water + few drops of h2o2 Day 2 Moved seeds to “dookie”paper(myco), all seeds have visible tap roots popping out except amnesia zkittles , which was the biggest seed, and looks to just be opening up. Day 3 AZ caught up and GP has a fat chub of a tap root lol. Planted all the seeds into holes with myco. Was a bit sketchy some had weird root shapes and hopefully I didn’t plant them too deep. Sprayed with dechlorinated not PHed water. Day 4 - Girls in the dirt. Watered a few oz with a spray bottle. Not PHed with FishSh!t New grow. Going organic and auto flowering this time, so new experience. My plan is to just lst with minimal interference since they grow fast, and maybe top 2 of them just to experiment. Also planning on adding some more light. Any advice or comments are welcomed and appreciated.

Just water