Пред последняя неделя Сделал сегодня Flush для Bruce Banner Dos Si Dos#1 и Kalaschnikova еще 2 недели , Ripen и Flush Dos Si Dos#2 через пару дней harvest

This plant is huge!

May 10, 2024 A new week and more flushing. Both ladies look really good. Tropicana C is way too heavy for her branches. It's good and bad. It's bad because they are flopping all over. And it shows how weak these tops are. It had to be my nutrient regimen. It's good because it shows the buds are dense and heavy. Tropicana Cookies has significantly stronger branches and can hold a lot of weight for the size of the buds. I could just be a tight fit with all the buds up and down each top. Who knows. They are starting to lean a little bit, but not too bad. Her buds are almost all purple top to bottom and the leaves are getting lighter and lighter throughout the plant. She's covered in trichomes. From what I can see, there's not nearly enough amber trichomes on the buds. Very soon though. I reactivated her wick system today. Her container was about half the weight as it was yesterday. Maybe now that it's not saturated anymore, the wick system will provide what it needs. We shall see later today I think. The lighting for some of this week will stay the same. I'm just waiting for the other 2 plants in the tent to start their flush. Then I'll drop the power down some. Most likely to a DLI of 36 mol/m²/d. We shall see. I'm also curious if it will actually do anything. They are autoflowers and light doesn't really mean much. Just as long as it's on and the right DLI, it should be fine, right? Anyway, I'll drop it when the flush starts anyway. I want to see what happens. The environment is looking a little better. The humidity is lower at 54%, but still way too high. At least it's below 60% finally. But 54% isn't much better. The temperature is pretty good at 76° during the day and 67° at night. I still can't get it down to 66° at night, so 67° will have to suffice. However, there is about a 10° difference between lights out and lights on. Grow System Environment: Temp: 74.1° RH: 54.2% VPD: 1.29 kPa May 11, 2024 Watering day! Last watering of the grow. I'll let them dry out from now on. It should be like 4 days before they are dried out. Tropicana Cookies looks so close to being done. Her fade is spreading and I'm guessing another 3 days? Maybe less. There is so much more purple now. Ite absolutely beautiful. She definitely will need a trichome check daily. Tropicana C has started showing purple finally. I'd give her another 5 days, maybe a week. I honestly cannot tell. I'll check trichomes tomorrow and every day afterward. Her buds are definitely getting heavier and some even look fatter. She's definitely not quite ready, but super close. The light power will be dropped in a couple days down to a DLI of 36 mol/m²/d. Not much else for that. The environment is still kind of a mess. The temp is fine at 75°, but the humidity is still high at 55%. I even got the temp down to 66°. So that's good. I'd like to keep it there for the rest of the grow. I'll also try to drop the temp during the day to help bring out more color. It will also help with keeping the temp low during the drying period. Grow System Environment: Temp: 73.0° RH: 53.6% VPD: 1.27 kPa Update: I ended up checking the trichomes anyway, and i think I know when they will be done. Just an estimate, but I think a good one. Anyway, Tropicana Cookies should be done in about 3 days while Tropicana C should take about 5 days. I may wait and harvest both at the same time. Or in between and harvest them in 4 days. Tropicana Cookies just needs more amber trichomes. They are almost all cloudy. Very few clear, but only about 5% amber. Tropicana C on the other hand, has a bit too many clear trichomes and no where near enough amber. 5 days should do it. 4 might be a little early, but that might be the only option. We shall see in 4 days. May 12, 2024 Not much going on today. Tropicana Cookies had a soaked bottom again, so I removed 1 of the wicks. So there should be about half the water going in now. She's definitely not thirsty. So very close. Anyway, she is fading quite nicely and I think she will have a whole bunch of beautiful colors. Lots of purple and some nicely fading fan leaves. Light greens, yellows a tiny bit of red. But not there yet. Tropicana C did not have a soaked bottom today. She never does. It just tells me she is still thirsty. Which also tells me she still has some time left. Maybe 4 to 5 days, but I may harvest her in 3 to 4 days. It all depends on how she looks. I got some trichome pics today. Just one for each plant, but they were the best I could get so there you have it. Anyway, Tropicana Cookies looks very close. More amber trichomes, more cloudy and much less clear. Tropicana C still has a bit too many clear, but definitely has more cloudy. Not too many amber, but more than yesterday. I still plan to drop the DLI down to 36 mol/m²/d in a day or two. It won't really matter, but it's still important to note. It's for the other plants in the tent. The environment is a lost cause. I can still control the temp, but the humidity is still at 57%. I have the temp at 77°, but I think I'm going to drop it down to 74°. I don't think the humidity will go up with the temp change. And if it does, back up to 77°. I'll probably get the 74° mark, so all good. Grow System Environment: Temp: 73.9° RH: 55.6% VPD: 1.25 kPa May 13, 2024 Not much going on today. I checked trichomes and I think I'm going to harvest when Tropicana C is done. She should be done in a couple of days. Maybe 3 to 4? Maybe less? I'm supposed to be harvesting tomorrow, but I'm not sure I will. I'll check the trichomes again tomorrow, but both are there. Just a little bit more. Not too much longer though. I have 4 more plants ready to come in like ASAP. Anyway, the trichomes on Tropicana C are mostly cloudy now, with a few clear and more amber. Maybe 8% to 10%. Just a bit more. Tropicana Cookies is a bit further with next to no clear trichomes and the same amber as her sister. Roughly 8% to 10%. She will definitely be done either tomorrow or the next day. So I think it makes more sense to focus mostly on Tropicana C for harvest time. I really don't want to harvest an indica too early. Not to mention, the purple is coming through really quickly for Tropicana C. Tropicana Cookies has almost all purple buds. The very bottom of the plant still has mostly green with purple coming through just a bit. It's more like pink than purple. But the majority of the bud is green. These are the underdeveloped buds. Not even worth of popcorn I think. That stuff will become concentrate. The light intensity will be dropped tonight down to a DLI of 36 mol/m²/d. Kind of pointless for the last couple days, but it needs to be done. The environment is driving me crazy. I can keep the temp at 74°, but then the humidity goes up to 58%. Much too high. Even opening the tent door only drops the humidity down to 52%. I'm going to need to drop the humidity in my room down to 35% somehow and maybe I'll get below 50%. This is ridiculous. Grow System Environment: Temp: 74.4° RH: 56.2% VPD: 1.24 kPa Update: I ordered a new dehumidifier for grow tents today. It should be here tomorrow. I'm guessing a lot of my problem with the humidity is my current dehumidifier. It barely pushes air. Cheap and well used. The new one is from Vivosun. A much more reputable company. May 14, 2024 Trichome day! Took a couple videos. The videos are kind of crappy. I hurt my back so I'm shaky. I removed the wick system completely from both plants. Tropicana Cookies was yet again soaked. Not as bad with just the one wick, but still soaked. Anyway, I pulled the wicks and emptied the reservoirs. Maybe that will help with the humidity. They should both be dried out in a few days. Just in time for harvest. Tropicana Cookies looks wonderful! Her buds are nearly black, with nearly black leaves. It's the darkest strain I've ever grown. Insane. She still has a day or 2 left to go. There's trichomes, but not enough. Hopefully 2 days will do it. Trichomes are mostly cloudy, a little bit of clear and not enough amber. Tropicana C is right behind her sister plant in the dark purple color. Her flowers and sugar leaves are getting super dark. Fan leaves are lights ing up, but not fading. I have a feeling she is going to need longer than I have been estimating. I also have a major issue with the side branches all around the plant. They are just laying down. Buds completely facing down. The branches are also super weak. I don't understand what happened. Back to trichomes. There's like 20% clear still and nowhere near enough amber. The lower light intensity doesn't seem to being doing anything, but I'm sure it's preserving the trichomes. Maybe even helping along the plants to finish up. The environment is still a nightmare. The temp is still fine, but the humidity is stuck at 60% again. The humidity in my room is higher than outside. I have the door open to help drop it, but it's not helping with the tent humidity. I have no idea how environmental science works. Lol. I wonder if I defoliate both plants a couple days early, what will happen. Wouldn't it put all of its energy into the buds and increase trichome production, like a last push? I'll research this and decided what to do by tonight. Grow System Environment: Temp: 74.3° RH: 59.2% VPD: 1.15 kPa May 15, 2024 Nothing going on today. Both ladies are about halfway there before completely drying out. I'd say another 2 days. I was going to harvest tomorrow, but I checked the trichomes and they still aren't there yet. Plus, I think the other 4 waiting to get in the tent still have time to veg before they overwhelm their containers. One of them is very close, but I don't think she will be a problem in the next 2 days. Plus I can always train her down. Tropicana Cookies is starting to lean more. Her branches aren't quite falling over, but they are definitely getting weighed down. She seems to have basically stopped fading. Still a lot of green leaves, but each top is essentially all dark purple. So this may be it for fading. Now I can only wait for her to ripen up. Hopefully 2 more days. I really can't push it that much further. Tropicana C is still behind her sister by a bit. Not much, but enough for me to be concerned about harvesting them together in 2 days. I guess I'll see how the 4 other plants are doing in 2 days. Maybe I'll wait 3. Who knows at this point. It's been 7 weeks, so it should be any day. I think the light intensity is making the smell stronger. Less intense light is keeping the trichomes nice and plump and filling with cannabinoids. So maybe it was a great idea to drop he intensity. The environment is still kicking my ass. I can't get the humidity to drop below 60% and now I don't have much control over the temp It's stuck at 73°. Not bad for this stage, but it's killing the VPD. It needs to be at like 1.5 kPa, but it's at 1.00 kPa. Super bad. No good. The night temp is still too high. The average last night was 69.1°. Much too warm for night temps. Maybe that's what is taking Tropicana C to turn purple. She's getting there definitely and should be the same color as her sister. They are the same phenotype after all. Grow System Environment: Temp: 72.9° RH: 63.0% VPD: 1.00 kPa May 16, 2024 The final day of the week and I think I need to harvest these 2 tomorrow. The 4 Sour Diesels I have in my 2x2 tent are starting to get bigger and will need more space very soon. Not to mention, they are in my 2x2 tent I use for drying. Tropicana Cookies is basically done. I didn't check her trichomes today, but all the buds top to bottom are purple. Lighter purple in the lowers, but those are popcorn and larf, so I'm not so worried. She also seems to have stopped fading. She's nearly dried out now. Probably tomorrow right when I need to harvest. Tropicana C on the other hand has her trichomes looked at today. Made a video and took a pic from it. Anyway, the trichomes are much more cloudy now and maybe 7% amber. She should go a few more days, but I still have the dilemma of the other plants. I guess it all depends on how they look tomorrow I guess. She hasn't started fading yet, but more purple is showing up everyday. That's another reason I think she could go a few more days. She still hasn't even begun to fade. She's about half dry, but if I have to, I'll add a half gallon of plain water tomorrow to see if she fades at all. I may have to harvest Tropicana Cookies tomorrow and then Tropicana C a few days later. I should be able to fit 4 more 3 gallon containers in the 3x3 with just the one plant gone. It'll be tight and I'll need to Tetris the shit out of it, but I think I can manage. One thing I haven't thought about until now is drying itself. If I have to harvest separately, the 2 to 3 day difference will mess up the dry for the first one harvested. I think? Maybe not. I have a plan. Instead of hanging them next to each other, I'm going to hang them on top of each other. So the first will be Tropicana Cookies on top and later in Tropicana C on the bottom. Theoretically, with this setup, I could control the humidity a bit better. When Tropicana Cookies is nearly done and needs the extra humidity for that even dry, Tropicana C will have brought it back in and I should be able to hold it around 60% for the rest of the drying time for both plants. Lighting doesn't matter anymore. It's served it's purpose and I could technically take one out now for a 2 day dark period before harvest. But if anything, I'll wait for tomorrow. I honestly didn't think about the dark period until now. Haha. Whoops. That may just solve problem entirely. I don't have to wait for harvest time. My other plants won't get too big and I can put them in the 3x3 more comfortably. I can also harvest both plants at the same time. Or, if I have room, I can place Tropicana C in the dry tent on the bottom while Tropicana Cookies gets hung up. I don't think there's enough space though. Anyway, I think the best course of action is to put Tropicana Cookies in the dry tent for a 2 day dark period and harvest both when Tropicana C is ready. Then I can see if there's a difference between lights all the way to harvest or dark for 2 days. Fun! The environment is the bane of my existence. The new dehumidifier is definitely stronger than the old one and more compact. I even left the old one in there as well. Both running at the same time can only drop the humidity to a solid 60%, but my room is 63% and I can't do anything about it. I also have the tent completely sealed off. I think it's helping to keep the humidity from climbing to 65% or 70%. I have the temp up a bit to 76° and 77°. Just to help a smidge with the DLI. The only thing I have an advantage with is my ari flow and spread canopy. There's 2 fans blowing around air and the exhaust. It should help prevent mold or bud rot, but with such high humidity for days, I can only imagine something bad is happening. Maybe not bud rot or mold, but the chemical composition of the buds? I dunno. I haven't learned that much. Grow System Environment: Temp: 74.8° RH: 62.8% VPD: 1.07 kPa

This week I just let them do their thing. They seem to be bouncing back after the transplant I did last week. My OCD is getting to me though with the uneven canopy. They seem to be happier tho so I’m happy.

Prossime settimane via....anche queste forbidden runtz sono pronte da conciare,🤣❤️💛💚... quest'ultima settimana la notte la sto lasciando fuori in balcone per fargli un buon sbalzo termico..,,....... Ho tagliato anche quest'ultima forbidden runtz

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.

Week 2

So I was just having a good look at my plants today, when I noticed that one of the girls looked different! She has three leaves instead of the usual two appearing! I realized it was odd when I saw that she also had three cotyledons instead of the normal and natural two! So I did my research and it's called either whorled phylotaxy or a polyploid (which I figured from the start).😄 So obviously, I'm a first time grower and a newbie to it all, and I'm not sure if these girls are ready to be moved outside yet, or are they still a bit too small? Should I wait for a second pair of true leaves?✊

Here we go!

It is a vigorous plant with very uniform branching, high resinous and high yield, if you grow from seed there are a few different phenos that I got, equally as good

Little bit of a delay. Wanted to get climate perfect before the flip. Upgraded ventilation and have the tent dialed in well at 74 degrees and 60% humidity during day and 70deg/ 55% at night. Started a second scrog on Day 42. Nervous about the stretch but hopefully I can maintain it (I wish T5 lights could flower...) Did extensive trimming underneath clearing pretty much anything that will never reach the ceiling of green above it. Day 45 marks last day of Veg Day 46 marks first day of flower AND. HERE. WE. GO.

Hello everyone week 2 has passed for this Tropicana Cookie auto by Fast Buds 😎 this plant is doing very well growing at fast pace and with a beautiful green colour on the leaves. Topping & LST for my girl 😎 wish you all happy growing!

Start of week 3 flowering i have to push this plant in a closet dring the 12h darkness because im still growing autos right now

Day 49 The plants are progressing well into the flowering stage. Bud development is becoming more noticeable, with small clusters starting to form and fill out. The leaves are a healthy green, though some are slightly curling down, possibly due to a bit of overwatering or humidity fluctuations. Overall, the plants look strong and vigorous. Light distance and airflow are being monitored closely to keep conditions stable. Over the next days, the focus will be on maintaining consistent watering, adjusting nutrients for mid-flower needs, and supporting steady bud growth

Day 71👋🌱 I started flushing some days befor. I think I’ve got 20 days left but this lady eat a lot of feeding this last weeks so I give some more flushing. Buds looks full of all What they needs also if now they need to get fat and fat. :) let’s see what’s happen. Giving ph controlled water at 6.2/6.5, I check TDS to water owerflowing from pot, bringing it to 50ppm from 400. Now I’ll start checking trichomes every three days, I’d like a 60% white and 40% amber Day 72👋🌱🌱 Hi all growers, how is going? 😊 I'm at my first real flush for this Orange, i gave 10 lt of ph controled water and was checking ppm from water coming out. i gave water unitl it reach 400 ppm, my water is 200 ppm, i hope i'll bring it to 50 ppm for next flush in 3 days. i think bud are going to bloom nice this last days befgore harvest, i can feel it :D Day 74👋🌱🌱🌱🌱 Soil is already quiet dry, smell is increasing rapidly. Today I’ll give another e 1 lt of water and Sunday I’ll do another flush. I think will go up to 90 days. Bud will get fatter and fatter🏆. Maybe I could have fertilise two times more, but anyway I’d not a big problem, I’ve been feeding them a lot since the beginning so a more long flush won’t be a problem at all. Can’t wait to the harvest. Day 77 🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱 Just posting some trichome pictures, waiting to some changement before publishing some new pic of the lady. Keep washing it with ph controleed water that looks always cleaner, i think i'll be cutting the most high bud some days before the rest of the plant. Can't wait anymore Let’se go! ❤️🌱 Any suggestion is really welcome :)😋🌱🌱