3 of the ladies are in flush will be cutting them down within the next or 2 & the other 2 probably have another month left! Fingers crossed for harvest!🤞🏼✌️🏼🌱

Day 29 massive leave cutting in the morning... but the queens seems to be ok 😃🙏👌👍the Z-Up strain has 5cm more then the others Day 30 all queens are a little bit shocked from cutting 😩 ok chill today but tomorrow back to work bitches 😂😂😆😃🙏👍 Day 31 everything seems to be allright 😃🙏👌 Day 32 well the queens raise again 😃🙏👍

Because I'm little worried about the size of the flowers and their resin, I started adding green sensation of plagron, lets see what can do. As you can see I'm waiting to the last moment to watering, in order to stress a little bit my plants and get more resin.

On this beautiful monday I reveal to you the evolution of these wonderful Black bud 😇. I am waiting with excitement to prepare them for harvest, they are so close. I have tried as much as possible to present to you their details and colors which are as close as possible to the view I have here in front of me. I'll leave you with this update and come back for the serious stuff 🙌✌️👨‍🌾.

Wahrscheinlich vorletzte Woche! Messwerte der Bilder sind aus dem durchgelaufenem Wasser (Drain).

This strain is a dream to grow, if you haven't tried it yet, it's amazing, it's easy, it's lush and vibrant, full of energy from seed to smoke. Great for organic grow styles and a fun plant to grow. The smoke I will update in the smoke review! I do not have words for the quality of this strain. In everything. Grow this and be absolutely amazed by its performance. I had won the seeds with the Halloween give-away but they are a sure winner and a keeper. @SweetSeeds congratulations on a champion auto-strain. I've grown auto's before, only outdoors, but nothing like this, nothing this big in such a short time, and this resilient for not only mistakes but everything. This plant will perform even if you were to mess it all up. Keep to 20 liters grow bags for best performance as you could see with my two plants. One as more developed, although everyone says over 15 ltr makes no difference, with organic coco hybrid super soil, it does. It is the difference in buffering of nutes, PH, heat, and moisture. Way less hassle in the bigger pot and this was an excellent learning curve. This grow started out as a match between Forbidden Runtz by Fastbuds and XL Runts by Sweetseeds. But since the playing field was uneven (pot wise but also heat and fresh air wise), the results do not count in my opinion. But my guess is (since I haven't weighed the Forbiddens) that the XLs for now won. But as I said it would not be fair. We will do the contest again when said playing field is level. For now thank you again for checking my diaries, if you have any questions or comments, always welcome my friend. Big Hug Bud

The girls have performed very well this week! The LST began, and there was some great growth in side branching. I also started this week off with introducing them to some nutrients ❤️ Start of week 4, the girls had responded well to transplanting, so I decided to start with some LST. My main method is to use soft wire wraps (dollar store purchase!) I poke one hole in the side of the pot near the top, and then go directly opposite that hole and poke through to make another. The first hole is for a wire wrap to secure the base of the seedling from pulling right out or over too far. The other hole is for the direction you want to bend your plant to. I start by slowly working the stem between my fingers at the point where I want it to bend. Twisting and pinching slowly so not to snap. *wait a day or two after your last water, or it will be easier to snap* once it’s ready to flop, I use the wire tie to hold down the top of the plant as close as I can to the nearest shoots. I’ll usually leave the plant like this for a couple of days, adjusting the ties, and then take them off to let them recover . Watered with a small dose of the full line I will be using for this grow. The girls got about 500 ml at the beginning of the week, but 2 days in I could tell they wanted more. By the end of the week they are taking nearly 1/2 gallon (which will give me 10% runoff) At the end of the week I increased the intensity of the BP2500 to 190 watts at the wall and the girls did show a few wrinkles as they adjusted, but have quickly recovered. I haven’t topped these girls, and I’m not sure if I am going to… thoughts? Happy Gardening 🇨🇦❤️🌱😎💨

Plants are growing at a nice pace especially dealing with the extra high PH runoff

Ok

i messed up the dates in this diary i think, this should be day 71 and flowering day 3 for the photos : yt link for trichomes, I will add more, i hope it will be ready end of weekend - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VId9DWEHmVA - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym4A9hqoh94 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKWNnEGSzOM

25 and 28 days from planting. A couple of days before, I started cutting off the large leaves. Today I started doing LST. Perhaps I was a little hasty with this, but we'll see. The temperature problem has been resolved. Watering is carried out every 3 days. For the entire volume of the pot.

April 10, day 21, the Euforia is starting to take off. Lots of branching that will need to be trained low and wide to fill up as much of the 6sqft space as possible. I turned on my second HLG 100 light to bring the lighting up to 200w. I did this to make sure as many of the new branches have light as possible, as some of the fan leaves have grown is very thick and the plant is quite stocky. I raised the distance of the lights as I don't want to overdo it with the second one running and the internodal spacing is already tight. I pushed up the EC slightly without any issue, so 1.4 is around where I will stay through veg. I also have allowed the PH to range lower as I am less concerned about cal mag issues at this point. Fertigations will continue to be 1x per day untill the roots spread more and the coco dries quicker. Then it will be up to 2x or 3x per day as needed. April 12, day 23, the Euforia is growing well, while remaining very tight and bushy. I did some minor LST tying two dominant side branches down to start opening up the plant, but will need a bit more height and growth before I can continue with more areas of the plant. April 13 day 24, lots of vigorous growth and the LST is working to expose more new growth to light for this very dense little plant. Increases fertigations back to twice daily, for 20 second watering intervals. The 26 seconds of watering was barely producing runoff now that the plant is larger, so this increased watering should help keep the coco well flushed even when the plant is significantly large. April 15, day 26, removed some leaves blocking nodes and lower growth that will never develop. I don't like removing leaves when I don't have to, but the plant is growing in thick enough there needs to be more room for growth around the center of the plant. Also performed some more LST and leaf tucking. April 16 day 27, LST widening the plant and opening up the center to new growth. Removed a few leaves as needed. The Euforia is growing well and I am hoping that by the end of the flowering stretch it will take up the majority of the tent. One topmost branch that was growing in thin after the FIM had to be removed while still fairly young. It's connection point seemed so thin it made the branch extremely fragile, and I decided I did not want the risk of it falling off after spending a lot of energy on bud production that could be spent elsewhere. When taken off I could confirm that it was around 1mm of the branch that was actually connected to the main stock, which just isn't enough. I will keep this in mind for the future in terms of FIMming vs topping. RIP lil' branchy.

Back in business Got some Lst work to do on these to keep em low I've been away for few weeks and they gone mental , started flower 12/12 3 days ago. Will be keeping stems as low as possible. Just ph water this week then onto flower nutrients. They had a 13 week veg

Week 7 for Black Lebanon by SSSC She seems fairly happy she's still not exploding how id like her to but i don't think the roots have started getting around the bigger pot yet putting in mind how much it rained on her after it was transplanted. Haven't even fed her in the last 2 weeks 😂 these bigger pots really catch a lot of rain 😅 Trying to give her some time to dry up so the roots can explode. Likely to not be feeding her this up coming week either as we have 2/3 days of rain coming up still😪 Im sure in no time she will take it up a gear growth wise. I tend to not touch her too much because every time i go to say hello we have some big jumping spiders on her i know she's here to help but Jesus i hate those things 😂😂

I have nice hairy buds coming Some plants are out of sync, autos are flowering faster than the photoperiodic

📆 Week 13, 16-22 April 2024 16-20 April - Let the plant grow. 21 April - Increased light power to 100%. 22 April - Let grow and observe for signs of light stress. This week her bud began to grow in length, so I decided it was time to turn up the light intensity to help manage this process. This will bring the DLI to 60. Understanding this is a high level I do closely watch and observe. Because the light has increased the heat will raise some, so there may be a chance of burn to look out for. I dont expect either one because of the distance from plant to light, but am aware. Her water consumption will also increase. 🍶 16 April changed nutrient solution 🍽️ 16 April updated feeding schedule 💧 Using reverse osmosis water with EC/TDS at 0 🐉 Nutrient Solution EC 2.6 at 69 degree F 🔆 Light power at 100%, DLI 55-60 canopy coverage at 12hrs 😤 Using General Hydroponics, HGC728040, Dual Diaphragm Air Pump, 320 GPH That is it for this week. Thanks for the look, read and stopping by.

Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. I don't recommend. Adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.

I love organic growing.