Tag 105: Noch 7 Tage bis zu Ernte! Kann es kaum erwarten 😍

Week one of flower is here.

Candy kush

What's up, GrowDiaries fam! 💚 Welcome back to another update! 🚀 She is well into the flowering stage now and putting on a beautiful show! As you can see in the pictures, she's staying relatively compact in her smaller pot but making absolute the most of it. 🌿 Development & Structure: Look at those beautiful white pistils standing straight up! ❄️ The bud sites are really starting to stack and multiply at every node. I’ve still got her tied down with the green garden wire around the rim of the pot this LST has been crucial for keeping her canopy opened up so the light can penetrate deep down to those lower branches. She’s got a great, bushy structure going! Update: the run off with crazy hight 8900ppm ?☠️ she was basically in salty sea, I had to water them with just water until the run off went down to 800. 💧 Nutrient & Water Log: She is eating and drinking at a great pace right now. The foliage is a mostly deep, rich green. We do have some red/purple stems showing up and a tiny bit of yellowing/spotting on a couple of the older lower fan leaves, but nothing major to stress over. I'm just keeping her dialed in, making sure the pH is on point so she can focus all her energy on fattening up those buds! 🍽️💪 ⛺ Environment & Health: Overall health is solid and she is loving the tent conditions. Airflow is great, and she’s starting to produce that lovely, sweet sticky aroma. Plus, I’ve got the trusty tattooed Kewpie dolls keeping a close watch over her from the shelf in the background! 👶👀 You can see she's sharing the space with a younger sibling in the back, but she is definitely the star of the show right now. Can't wait to watch these colas really start to swell and get frosty over the next couple of weeks. Let me know what you guys think in the comments! Happy growing and stay frosty! 🌲🔥

¡Hola, amigos! Week 12 is here, and my tent has developed a truly intense aroma. Just ten minutes of airing it out, and my entire apartment is infused with its delightful scent. In Week 5 of flowering, I treated them to a revitalizing compost tea, hoping they'll bulk up beautifully. Trichomes are absolutely everywhere, even on the sugar leaves, glistening like tiny crystals. Other than that, it’s just another week of patient waiting. Day81: Almost everything is fine; a couple of the lower leaves have turned slightly yellow. In week six, I’ll start giving them 50% of the recommended amount of Fish-Mix and Heaven by Biobizz, observing how they respond.

Still stretchin

Looking closer and closer to being finished with this one.. I lowered the ppms down to 600. May need to go lower most the tops look like they are finishing up. This one is pretty massive filling my 5x5 tent pretty good and the root production out of this 6" net cup is pretty gnarly. Definitely not lacking any quality either. Buds smell delicious and are super sticky.

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

Start of week 4, day 22. The girls grew tremendously during the last week, very nice branch growth, internodes and overall plant size. No trimming this feeding, just removed 2-3 dying leaves from the lowest branches. One of the girls is clearly shorter than the others, I think I will keep her in veg after this week and flip the other two to flower.

Tras un pequeño fallo con la iluminación (5 horas apagado cuando tenía que estar encendido ). He decidido hacer ya el cambio a floración,espero que no sea muy tempranero y se queden muy pekeñas las niñas . Mañana mismo empezaremos con los fertilizantes de floración controlando el pH en 6.5. Todavía no he defoliado nada y nose si quitaré alguna hoja o solo las intentaré apartar sin que moleste a las llemas .veremos cómo prosigue la cosa 💚 Adjunto un vídeo con el tutorado y la poda de bajos realizada .. Gracias growers!💚

Meanwhile it is foxtailing hard. As I‘m not running crazy temps, this is likely caused by the 13h of light. Reduced now back to 12h and hoping she will survive another week or so (trichs are mostly milky, no amber yet)

Can't wait to harvest! Probably going to wait another week. Trichomes are getting cloudier. A few amber ones, a few clear ones still. Most are cloudy. Gave them the last garlic spraying for the spider mites yesterday. Only spraying them with water now to keep the mites in check and wash off the garlic.😎

Some hairs have started turning orange one has stretched quite a bit compared to other two idk why * edited to fix the led in pictures

Great plant hard nugs

Chop within a couple of days... Smell is very pleasant but strong Grown with Mars Hydro sp 3000 Music includes authors explicit permission

Vegetative steering Aiming for: leaf Temp -70f CO2 300 VPD +.93 Planning for: MJ and bras foilar 60%+1.5/-71f set to 68f+1.5 Leaf Temp is about 3f higher than ambient temp At 68f outside, grow room still wont hit 68 with lights off Day 24 No Co2 50-55klux 15inch from light Leaf Temp 71-73f 60%/72F Veg steering Coconut water Uneven canopy(11 at 29inch, 3ag 31 inch ———————— Day 26 56%68f(humidity dropped because i havnt watered in two days 🤡) 23inch-34inch tal. Arranged in order. 52-59klux Sprayed 5Bras,(23inch)70 leaf temp 4Jas,(29inch) 70 leaf temp 4Bras&Jas(34inch)72f leaf temp ——————— Day 27 Watered once ————- Day 28 Im pretty sure the sprays worked. Noticed leaf burn with 3 plants sprayed with MJat 147ppm(.5ml) No leaf burn with the .1Bras sprays I wonder how long both are good for. Also, can i pour the unused spray in the medium? I just dont want to waste it. Plants are noticeably more vigorous. I am wondering if now is a good time for my defoliation. i was planning for Week 5. I feel like the buds are to developed for me to be pruning off lower buds and makes me feel like i should have pruned beginning of week4 __________

Dane, We all should help one another. Human beings are like that. We should live by each other’s happiness - not by each other’s misery. We don’t want to hate and despise one another, share the Joint. And mother earth is rich and can provide for everyone. We can Grow enough Happiness, In this paradise, there is room for everyone. We only exist to bring joy into the world and The way of life can be free and beautiful, but we have lost the way. Grow High and Give the world A smile. At the end we own nothing more then all our memories, lets make them amazing for everyone, nothing to loose only everything to win. A last kiss goodby, a second one, softer and long as a sign, that you are woth it. That Everyone worth who loved and give. Enought Hippie Talk, now have a nice day and an even better grow, thx for watching by. (20 remove second part and clean stone, most of the roots are dead now and only there for optics few will grow big and hopefully hold the stone, in 2-3 weeks i try to remove soil unter it and try to let root hold all "flying" we will seee (22 so flexible i coudnt resist to do some lst