Fresh harvested , a bit sticky , smells flowery

Ran into a lot of problems this week unfortunately. Some of buds developed a fungus(botrytis). Don't know how to stop this as I'm growing outdoors. Nevertheless, the buds that are clean are growing nicely. Hopefully into the home stretch of the grow now.

I'm mitigate from this experience , the grow was not optimal why ? Maybe because my main thing is not to grow auto flower but femenised , the #3 was hermaphrodite plant ...

She is starting to stretch into flower here, and this is where my notes stopped on 7/14/2023 until 8/13/2023. Switched to 24hrs to try to get some more growth out of her. Absolutely explosive growth and I am in shock. Been training her down with those LST clips and gently bending branches/the main cola.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

I received some great tips here. For starters by suggestion I have lowered my day-time temps to between 75-78 degrees and my night-time temps to between 65-68 degrees. I had no intentions of trimming/defoliation anymore. So far she's adjusted well. Ive adjusted to only watering from the bottom instead of top watering.

Day 9 I had no choice but to defoliate, the canopy was getting way to dense and humidity was hard to control even with my 30 pin dehumidifier. Hopefully will not affect to much. Probably I will do another defoliation on day 21. TDS stays at 550PPM this week and CO2 at 1200PPM.

Herb got my wig fried like a bad burn. - Method Man Ive committed to smoking this entire harvest in one sitting, one video take. It is my Solo Sesh challenge. Join me for prizes. Pm

Playing the waiting game🙄

Im most intresting in afgan banana genetics and flavor

5/11 I DID NOT WATER. A COUPLE LOOKED DRY BUT STILL HAD HEFT AND I COULD FEEL MOUSTURE IN THE SOIL. I should've taken more pictures. I forgot it's a new week. Oh well. I'll be back over and I'm planning to bring the girls outside for the first time if it warms up a little more. It's windy as fuck but I can put them in the garage with the doors open. As long as that's not the direction of the wind. I raised the L.E.D light and lowered the hps. I also TRIED to FIM a 10th planet and an mk ultra. I may have just topped them. We'll see how it turns out before I do anything to the others. Pink kush grows slow and compact. Very similar to my experience with purple punch. I have two plants that have slightly twisted leaves. Nothing else is wrong with anything. Looking at the stippling on the leaf I think it might just be either low humidity or slight wind burn or a combination of the two. Now that I've looked again I think it might just be the first 5 finger leaf on those pink kush that I mat have mistaken. I'll keep an eye out. I feel better having done some research. I'll put some more pictures up and I'll update what it is that I get done. EDIT: WENT BACK OVER AROUND THREE. EVERUTHING LOOKED GREAT AND THE LEAVES WETE PRAYING ON SOME. I MAY NEED TO WATER SELECT PLANTS TOMORROW. I'LL PLAY IT BY EAR. LOWER THE HPS AND RAISING THE LED WAS A WISE CHOICE I THINK. OH AND THE "TWISTED" LEAF I WAS WORRIED ABOUT IS NOTHING. JUST THE FAN TO CLOSE AND A FOMBINATION OF LOW HUMIDITY AND MINOR HEAT STRESS. ITS BEEN TAKEN CARE OF. I WANTED TO BRING THE GIRLS OUT TODAY. ITS SUNNY AND 60° BUT THE WIND IS WHIPPING! WE'VE GOT GOOD WEATHER COMING UP THOUGH WITH TEMPS IN THE 70'S. I THINK TOMORROW ILL CLEAN/SANITIZE THE CAGE AND WASH/SANITIZE THE GROW BAGS. 5/12 Looking and lifting some of the pots I found some that were pretty much totally dry. I watered the majority of all the plants. If soil was moist I left it alone. If it looked a little dry I gave it a little water. I didn't measure the water but it wasnt even ALL of what I had left from LAST WATERING (which was like a qtr gallon If that). I just don't want to over water. The ones that I went light on last time were the ones that were dry. Plants seem to explode after watering but this wasn't nearly as much. Everything is looking great. It's easy to tell these are all indicas due to the structure and leaf shape. Much different than even the Chem Dog #4 which doesn't LOOK as "indicay" as some of the others. I wanted to bring them outside today but it's only 50 out. I'm not going to make the same mistake as years past and stress the plants. When we get a nice warm day I'll bring them out. Other plants are ready to be topped or fimmed but I haven't done it yet. Also need to clean the cage and wash the bags. 5/13 It's 60° at 9am so I think the girls will be going outside for a little bit. Didn't fully water but I used what was left of the gallon and gave them that. Some are much drier than others. I'll probably give them a full watering tomm. I only gave them a little today because I didn't want them drying out. I FIMMed a Special Kush today. WE'LL see how the hst turns out. EDIT: WENT AND BROUGHT THE GIRLS OUT FOR FOUR HOURS IN INDIRECT SUNLIGHT. THE TENTH PLANETS WERE THE ONLY ONES THAT LOOKED LIKE THEY HAD AN ISSUE. JUST MINOR HEAT OR LIGHT ISSUES WITH A COUPLE FAN LEAVES. EVERYTHING ELSE SEEMED LIKE THEY SHOT UP IN SIZE. THE LARGER CONTAINERS STILL SEEM KINDA MOIST BUT SOME ARE DRY. I NEED TO GET ON A STABLE WATER SCHEDULE. ITS HARD WITH DUFFERENT PLANTS OF VARYING SIZES. STILL HAVE A LOT OF WORK TO DO. 5/14 One plant was super light today and was a little droopy. I WATERED EVERYTHING TODAY USING APPROX A HALF GALLON. I brought them outside for the second day. I left them out for about 3hrs. It's hot today. I'm still floored that chatgtp gave me exact directions for hardening my plants off at my exact location taking the weather into consideration! That is awesome. They're all doing good. Pink kush is the slow starter this year. Kind of like purple punch was. The only plants that had ANY damage on them was the two 10th planet's and its not really damage. It's just a LITTLE mottling on the leaf and the serrations pointing down. It's weird because this strain did great here last time. The Special Kush #1 and the Pink Kush would probably be fine to leave out soon. Hindu Kush parents make those strains extremely resilient. The one chem dog #4 looks out of place with all tjis big fat indica leaves. I'm hoping the topping and fim-ing will take. It looks like it will. 5/15 Everything is looking great! I have some work to do bit then I'll be over to bring the girls out for a few hours. I'll edit this when I do. EDIT: BROUGHT THE GIRLS OUT FOR THREE HOURS TODAY. I THOUGHT THE TENP WENT DOWN TO 73 BUT TUAT WAS INDOORS. OH WELL. THEY STILL DID GREAT! THEY WERE ALL LOOKING OUT OF THE LEAN-TO LIKE SUNFLOWERS! THE STRAIGHTEN OUT AFTER BEING UNDER THE GROW LIGHTS. I'M PLANNING TO CONTINUE TO HARDEN THROUGHOUT THE WEEK. STILL NEED TO CLEAN BAGS AND GROW AREA. I HAVE 'A' CAMERA DOWN. TRIED TO FIX IT TODAY BUT I WOULD GET RO THE LAST PART BUT THE CAMERA WOULDNT READ THE QR CODE ON MY PHONE. I EMAILED THE COMPANY BUT IF I DONT HEAR BACK BY TOMORROW AND I CANT FIX IT ILL JUST BUY ANOTHER CAMERA TO ADD TO THE SYSTEM. ITS THE OLDEST CAMERA I HAVE AND ITS DONE ME 5 GOOD YEARS. MAYBE ITS TIME TO RETIRE IT. 5/16 I watered a few of the girls this morning with a small ring around the pot. I brought them outside and am leaving them for 3.5 hours today in the lean-to. They get indirect light without all the wind this way. I'll slowly increase the hours outside until there is enough daylight for them to go outside without revegging. When I put them out I noticed that a few were light and since it was close to 80° I watered most everything. I used under a half gallon. I'll see how they do from here and then move forward. I fixed my down security camera and secured my cage. Now I just need to finish hardening off, clean/sanitize bags/environment and put them in tjeir final homes. I'm not rushing it though. I've learned my lesson with that. 5/17 Plants did great yesterday and were perky and praying this morning. It was HOT yesterday too. Got into the low 80's. It's 57° degrees at 9am and it's overcast and sprinkling. I haven't decided if I'm going to bring the girls out today. It might be a good day to try some direct sunlight. I'll update whatever I decide to do.

At this point I’m gonna let the plants tell me when they’re ready. Everything is going well at the most I’m taking them down at week 9 of flower. Did their last defoliation and changed the climate a lil to push some last trichomes but things are coming along

✨First off, wow. I was just out from the house for 5 days and my first reaction was WOW, it has sprouted so well. ✨ I think one of the best things of this hobby and growing process is when you don't see your plants for several days and when you do, it amazes you every time. Hopefully in a good way. D30: 👉 Looking more closely I see that the plant wasn't up for the upped dosage of nutes. 😿 I see nutrient burn on leaves and they are all curled down. 🌊 Gave it a good flush hoping it will regain balance. Will sligthly adjust the amount of nutes this week. 👉 I've adjusted this weeks nutrition information to the adjusted schedule. 💡 I don't know if flush is absolutely necessary, but I don't want to risk it. Decided to give it good 2-3 flushes on aone shower session. I know this will also equal as over watering, but I think it's less an issue than overdosage of nutes. This is what can happen if you decide to (slightly) give more nutes to the plant and then leave the house for 5 days. 🤦‍♂️ 💡🌻 Second thing I see is that okay, seems like this auto flower baby is starting to build buds. Wasn't hoping to see this either as I was planning to give the plant some LST/HST. Which I decided I will still do, because the space is tight, alright. I have no idea if I'm going to stress the plant too much now. But I have to do this one and will stop immediately if it seems to go to hell. ✍️ Note to self: "To hell with auto flowers." 😾 👉 Setup change: I used to only have my 2x20W LEDs, now added the other 2x20W for blooming phase transfer, in total 2x20W grow & 20x20W bloom. I will start the shift to bloom this ongoing week and switch to all 4x20W blooming lights with 12/12 change. 💡 Lots of changes coming in this week. Will it be too much for it to handle? We'll see! D31: 👉 Seems like it's handling the change well for now. I'm going to water it once the soil dries up a bit. I'm gonna make a shift from Alga Grow to Alga Bloom and gonna 50/50 them for the first transition week. Updated diary nutrients to match what I'm going to do. ✨🌿 Amount of shoots seems promising, about 8-9 of them. D32: 👉 This thing is looking better and better by the day. I'm getting super excited as I already thought that I've screwed up with this. 😻 👉 As this is the transition week, I'm doing a lot of micro managing of the environment and to the plant itself: ⚡️ I've tightened all of the strings for better control of the canopy of my baby ⚡️ I also shifted some of the big leafs of taller shoots under short shoot leafs in order to give them a proper amount of light as well ⚡️ I've organized the lighting to be in order of: Grow Bloom Grow Bloom (=4 strips of LEDS) 💡 I'm still worried about the tips of leaves as they are showing signs of over watering (because of flush) on top of the nute-burn. 💧 Even though of the signs of over watering, I will give a 0.5L of nutrition water so the grow process keeps on going and there will be no shortages to nutes distribution for the baby. This might be dumb tho. After this, I will wait out for it to fully dry. D34: 👉 Looking better and better, more lil beginnings of buds showing up and LSTing is going rather well. I've made minor changes to the strings every day for full control of the canopy and now even the most shortest shoots are leveling up to the tallest ones. Mission accomplished in my books. The bright green shoots and the amount of them is just 😻😻😻 ✨🌿 Amount of shoots seems promising, about 16 of them. 👉 I've made changes to lighting schedule, last night they had first ever 16/8 lighting, next night will be 14/10 and the night after that we going in 12/12 mode as first official week of flowering is starting (even though there are little bud hair here and there already 😋). 👉 Today I've added 3rd bloom-light making the order of lights G B B B. ❓ Why am I doing things so gradually? Well I just love to micro manage and I'm here to make sure the plant will not go into any shock because of sudden changes to environment. I know it wouldn't go, BUT.. I think I've shocked it enough with my inaccurate nutrition planning + over watering.

One of the last days of 2x 16 colas and 2x 4 colas mainlining 4 month growing. Jamaican Dream and Green crack potted together and the experiment was successful. Three Blue kings was stressed in vegetative period by iron excess and overwatering. This is the reason that lower buds did not developed better. Amherst Sour diesel have one of the biggest buds I have ever seen. Jamaican Dream should be developed smaller, like Green Crack, but 100% sativa genetics showed it's greatness. Green Crack was growing like Jamaican Dream in vegetative period, but in flowering period its growing was slowly and now it has become very thick and full of buds. My growing box is very cheap but I tried maximum of my budget. 600w HPS is one of the greatest lamp for indoor growing. At flowering stage I have increased 600w to Super Lumens on my digital ballast for maximum yield. Main mistake is that I have used very cheap and primitive pots and soil was not enough good too. In these days I'll cut diesel and kings tops, because they are almost ready and lower buds need 7-12 more days to be ready for harvest.

All goes well I guess.. I don't think there will be time for her to finish.. 6 weeks more at least and nights getting colder... Can't do much but wait. She grows she stinks.. really stinks.. That's all really. Thanks for stopping by Stay safe 😷😷 Grow well 🌿🌱🌼

Since high colas have already a good colour i thing to start flushing from next week to cut them in 14 days.

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This week is been great. I started with high ppm on the 2nd week for the nutrient kick , now just a low dose of growth enhancer. Good roots system. Topped them just 1 time and cleaning them from useless leafs. Using reverse osmosis water (15ppm)