Still fighting the heat, added a stronger bottom vent, managed to stabilize the temp to 25C. Relative Humidity is still a bit high, specially when opening the tent in the morning and at nighttime. AC working strong. Started taking PH measurements, though not very accurately (chem test). Apparently my mix of 2:1 Brita/tap water was good, the water in the tap is very alkaline (>8), the filter reduces the PH nicely. I read that Brita also filters out CalMag, so I've added a little boost. I'll stop using the greengro nutrient next week, I think it's Nitrogen level is too high. I received Johnny Green's Greengro in a grow deal, the other nutrients (except CalMag) are from the same line.

04/29/2021 GSC, is Fairing well against PM Blue Dream not so much going to have to physically wash leaves to take care of that. Watered in with Seed & Plant (mychoriza).

Week 25 december - 31 december

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Everything's doing great, the ladies are healthy and growing faster and faster!

Viel passiert! habe immer mal Blätter entfernt, immer ein paar,hat Sie gut ausgehalten.jetzt merke ich aber ,das ein Netz besser gewesen wäre,ich habe Angst,das die Äste brechen,die Knospen werden immer größer und schwerer, habe versucht mit Stäben zu stabilisieren, schwierig da zu viele Wurzeln da sind,die dann zerstört werden.Ich muss abwarten und hoffen dass keiner knickt. Blätter ober verbrennen langsam,das liegt am Dünger, ist aber nicht weiter schlimm, lass sie dran bis zu Ende. , Ich dünge 3/4 nach plan. jetzt noch ungefähr 4 Wochen. Nichts mehr wird gemacht,nur noch 3 Wochen gießen und spülen. Jetzt ist Geduld gefragt 🍀🍀🍀 jedesmal wenn ich davor stehe,kann ich's nicht glauben dass es eine einzige Pflanze ist einfach traumhaft schön,und unglaublich gut riechend

Athena for the win I know the Ogs goin on Plan with a defo on Day 21 from Switch but we reachin new ways and i switched from the normal schedule defo on Day 21 So what i did is short that period and instead of a Heavy defo and 🍭 on Day 21 i did the 🍭 on Day 14 and a slightly but good defo and on day 21 another not so Heavy defo so the shock for the Girls is not so Heavy like you make a Big defo and 🍭 on day 21!

Hi everyone 😎. Everything is going great 🤗 You look very healthy and feel very comfortable. This week I trimmed everything underneath and cleaned everything :-) All spare parts were replaced, as after a while from using the aero tool all the screw threads were bruised. At the same time, the entire tank was emptied, cleaned, and freshly filled this time with flower fertilizer :-) this week the stretch will decrease and the energy will be put into the flower production. I have with clean up take the chance right away, and take photos of the root carpet ich At the moment I am considering getting a CO2 system for the Aero tent, because I used to have one, but it had to be given when the boxes were not moving :-( Otherwise I wish everyone a nice weekend, and health for you and your families in this scheis corona time 😷 Let it grow 😎

Day 29: The girls are looking great. I upped the nutes yesterday, as I have been giving them barely any at all. Will up them once again on next feeding. Looking like tomorrow. The main branch that I snapped off did not make it. Lesson learned on that one. Day 30: Removed all other lights and added the HLG 550 V2 RSpec. Did some defoliation on the girls along with another feeding. Will do straight PH'd water next go. The girls are looking strong and healthy. 💪 Just on the small side. Still having to leave the tent wide open to subside temps and humidity. Day 31: Nothing new to report. Looking very short and stubby and healthy!! Day 32: Looking like they had some good stretching going on over the 3-day weekend. Will be needing fed tomorrow after work. May water a little less this time, as it is taking 2-3 days for them to dry out. Day 33: Great stretch and bloom on the girls today! They are looking super healthy and strong! 💪 No smell yet. Day 34: Girls are looking decent. Noticed some rusty looking splotches on the leaves. I'm thinking possibly Cal-Mag deficiency? Not sure. Day 35: Not looking too happy today. I let them dry completely and watered with only Cal-Mag. Hoping the patchiness clears up for them!

Day 25 . This bitch hermied. Gonna keep her few more days to see the progress

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyos. I am hopeful she will recover and reconnect the xylem and phloem channels. Oopsy level stress event. A couple of days later, the stem was tied in place to hold it, and I spent some time gently caressing the stem, bending it over time as it becomes more pliable the more you bend it. A little delay, but the core framework is now in place. If your soil has too high a pH, which is not ideal, you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. You are going to find a lot of people who will huff and puff and blow the house down and say, "Well, everyone's pH is high." That may be, but it doesn't mean it's right. But if you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC, The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur, also important for plant growth and potentially serving as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can) soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore, can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates; while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff.

Day 1 week 2 Day 2 week 2 Day 3 week 2

9/10 Went and shook the plants off. I don't think it rained. I think it's just dew. Plants with ailments seem to be progressing well and it looks like they'll outrun the pathogens. It may not be a banner year yield wise but the quality will be great it looks like. GMO is stacking up real nice. The ones in further flower are swelling more and more everyday. Earwigs MAY be back because I noticed a couple of plants where I left a tiny little branch on the bottom have been lollipopped on tje sherb pie and rather quickly too. I suppose it could be leaves dieing and rotting bit I doubt it. If they are here there aren't many and most plants are too far in flower for them to bother. They eat the lower newly developing shoots. Not big dense buds. Luckily. I noticed some pm on the gmo with pm. Looks like it's time for another treatment of k bicarb. I'll probably do that tonight. I'll keep this updated. WENT BACK OVER AND DEFOLIATED A BUNCH OF STUFF. ITS TIME FOR ANOTHER APP OF K BICARB. I CHECKED THE SHERB PIE AND IT DOESNT NEED TO BE WATERED. IT WAS STILL VERY HEAVY. IM THINKING I MAY HAVE EARWIGS THAT ARE FEASTUNG ON LOWER BRANCHES THAT SHOULDVE BEEN PRUNED. I NOTICED SOME LARFY SHIT THAT KOOKS LIKE NEW SHOOTS WERE CHEWED. LUCKILY THEY DONT SEEM TO BOTHER DEVELOPED BUDS. ESPECIALLY ROCK HARD BUDS. I'LL DO SOME RESEARCH AND DO SOME FORM OF APPLICATION FOR THE PM SPOTS I SAW AND THE SEPTORIA I KNOW IS THERE. IM SUPER GRATEFUL THOUGH. THESE ARE VERY HARD TO GROW STRAINS AND I THINK ILL KNOCK IT OUT OF THE PARK. Also thinking of switching to cha ching shortly on the toasted toffy and the event horizon that's furthest along. 9/11 I Didn't water anything today because things still seemed heavy. I'm noticing the same thing that happened a few years back. Lower secondary or tertiary branches are getting stripped on a couple plants. They never touch the developed buds they want the new shoots. If IT IS ear wigs they are impossible to fight. I put poison down and d.e. around those plantscand we'll see. It could also be rot from dying leaves. I need to treatcsome of the plants with a longer flowering time with plant doctor. I'm going over today to spend a few hours working in the garden. I'll apply something I just don't know WHAT yet. One event horizon looks like it tried to reveg AGAIN which is super weird . I just see a lot of one and 3 finger leaves. It will probably turn out to be great. The other event horizon looks like its going to be incredible. The toasted toffy is getting close too. Temps only reached 62° yesterday. It took FOREVER to shake these plants off. Time to get the leaf blower out. I'm going to bring my trich scope when I go over today. I wanna look at tgat event horizon. Pistols are retracting on the top flowers. This may be a multiple stage harvest. I'll keep this updated. UPDATE: WENT OVER AT FOUR AND WATERED. I MIGHTVE BEEN ABLE TO HOLD OFF UNTIL TOMORROW MORNING BUT I HAVE PLANS EARLY MORNING. I ALSO DEFOLIATED QUITE A BIT. BUDS ARE SWELLING CONSIDERABLY. THE SHERB PIE HAS TURNED COMPLETELY PURPLE. IT HASNT HAD ANY FLOWERS ON IT BUT NOW IT HAS FLOWERS BIGGER THAN A QUARTER! THESE PLANTS ARE VIGEROUSLY FLOWERING. I NEED TO CHECK THE TRICHS ON A COUPLE PLANTS AS THEY DONT HAVE MUCH TIME LEFT. AS I WAS DEFOLIATED I NOTICED THAT SOMWTHING HAD STRIPPED FRESH BUDSITES ON SOME LOWER BRANCHES. IN YEARS PAST THATS ALWAYS BEEN EAR WIGS WHICH ARE IMPISSIBLE TO DEAL WITH. THEY USUALLY DONT TOUCH THE BIG BUDS THOUGH. TJEY LIKE THE FRESY SHOOTS. ILL GO OUT AT NIGHT AND SEE IF THIS IS THE CASE. ITS ONLYVHAPPENING ON A COUPLE PLANTS BUT STILL. THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE IS GROWING DIFFERENT THAN ITS SISTER. YOU CAN TELL THE STRAIN IS THE SAME BUT THIS SEEMED TO REVEG (AGAIN) BECAUSE IM SEEING SMALL FULLY DEVELOPED BUDS THAT I DONT REALLY SEE CONNECTING. CRAZY TRICHS THOUGH. IT WILL BE INTERESTING TO SEE HOW IT COMES OUT. I TREATED THE GMO WITH WPM WITH A QTR GALLON OF K BICARBONATE FOLIAR SPRAY WITH A DROP OF DAWN FOR A SURFICANT. 9/12 Shook everything off and then used the leaf blower to try to better dry them. Weather is lookingvyo be good for the next couple weeks. Perfect finishing weather for my two that are furthest in flower. I may have to do a staged harvest. Some BOTTOM branches on e.h. are FAT and have trichs on trichs. I'll have to use my scope. I'm switching to cha ching next feed for the three furyhest in flower. Maybe four. The sherb pie had NO flowers last week but it's exploding with really compact buds. The whole plant turned purple. I need to be careful of botrytis with this weather. I've been pretty good about leaving and removing any dead or dying leaves. Even the plant in the ten is filling out nice. I have SOMETHING (behaving like earwigs) and eating "fresh" shoots. It's like lollipopping the new growth on a couple plants. I'll becstaying at the grow from now forward so I'll go out tonight and see what I found. The poison I put down seems to be gone. Anyway I'm very grateful for what I've got. I'm update as I go. 9/13 It's sprinkling a half hour trom my grow. I think it's supposed to be nice though. I found some botrytis on two plants. Two are so close to finishing that I need to closely watch them. I don't want botrytis. I applied k bicarb to the middle gmo as I saw a spot of pm. I spent a ton of time defoliating. This cold weather has brought the fade much faster. Trichs are looking good. WENT THROUGH THE PLANTS AND DEFOLIATED A SHIT TON. APPARENTLY THIS EARLY FADE IS NORMAL THIS YEAR. AT LEAST IN ALL MY CANNABIS GROUPS. WENT THROUGH EVERYTJING! STILL HAVE THE MIDDLE EVENT HORIZON I WANT TOO TIE DOWN BUT I DID A LOT OF DEFOLIATION. THIS ALLOWED ME TO FIND A FEW PIECES OF BOTRYTIS. ON MY PLANTS THAT ARE ALMOST DONE. WE HAVE GOOD WEATHER FOR A LITTLE BIT BUT I MAY HAVE REACHED DIMINISHING RETURNS ON A COUPLE. THAT E.V. AND THE TOASTED TOFFY I DONT WANT GETTING WET. THEY ARE TOO DENSE. TRICHS ARE ALL MILKY AND THEYRE SWELLING. IM SLEEPING ON IT BUT IM ALMOST POSITIVE IM GOING TO DO A SELECTIVE HARVEST ON THOSE TWO. IM NOT LETTI G SHIT ROT AND AGTER LOOKING AT THESE UNDER A SCOPE I WOULDS TAKEN THEM YEARS AGO. GMO IS FROSTY AS HELL. EXTREMELY ARONATIC GARDEN. ILL KEEP THIS UPDATED. Decided to hold off feeding and watering. Defoliated a shit ton throughout the day. Around five I noticed that my shittiest GMO with the yellow leaves had a couple dead interior branches. Upon closer inspection it looked like grey mold. A few tiny buds were destroyed but the branch needed to be removed. Jot any big loss but if it's in the shit that doesn't matter than it's around the shit that does. Found info on event horizon flowering time. Middle of September until middle of October. That could be why I'm seeing coke cans on the bottom branches of that phenome. I've got some decisions to make. I mixed up enough water to water in the morning. I'll mix up feed in the morning. Tje garden has gotten a lot of attention lately. I hope it pays off. I'm leaning on a multi staged harvest of the event horizon amd toasted toffy but we'll 9/14 Hurries morning. Mixed water for this morning last night. WATERED AND FED EVERYTHING (BUT TOASTED TOFFY AND EVENT HORIZON #2 DUE TO THEM BEING CHOPPED SOON.) Everything got a gallon of water and a qtr of food. I had to cut a couple small interior secondary branches on my shottiest GMO due to the appearance of grey mold. I also found some botrytis in both the event horizon and toasted toffy that I plan to take the tops of today. I scoped them and I'm planning to do a staged harvest. Trichs are milky with some amber. Everything is blowing up! I'm not sure what's happening but like it previous years there's a couple plants with leaves dieing near bud sites and an overall yellow appearance. Maybe it's late stage septoria. I cant isolate it due to local laws but if I have to I'll deal with it. Nothing else had anything like that. I hace noticed SOMETHING nocturnal that can eat a small branch and leave it bare. Also eat the small newly forming shoots at the bottom of plants. I shouldve taken off ALL the larfy stuff as it draws bugs but I did things a like different with each plant this year. I'm going to go through the plants again today and I'll update what I decide. Chances are the top half of those two plants are coming down. I'll do a video. 9/15 I'll have to add pics and videos tomorrow. Last night I did a final check of the trichs on event horizon #2 and toasted toffy. Everything looked great so I proceeded to do a "wet trim" outside (ill use the leaf blower to clean up) and cut the tops off the plant. I know this injures tje plant but it also makes them go crazy thinking they are dying and the buds and trichs swell. I had one plant last year I got two harvests off and a bunch of fresh frozen for concentrates. I looked this morning and I madecthe right decision. These plants are DONE. I've got another event horizon but it's not quite there yet. I'm going to leave it as long as I can. If the injured plants pick up pm or something (already had septoria) then the flower will be used for extracts or I'll do a Cervantes wash. I imagine concentrates though. One GMO isn't doing as good as the rest. Yesterday I had to cut three branches off due to grey mold on the stalk. If laws allowed it I'd isolate that plant. Luckily since I spend so much time going through the garden I'm able to find this kind of stuff. The GMO'S look wonderful (even the one with some yellow leaves that I cut the branches off) . K bicarb has kept pm at bay so far. This strain has TONS of trichs. It's like trich on trich on trich. I can't wait to try it. It smells amazing. Sherb pie is completely purple with rock hard buds that smell amazing. It's quality over quantity this year. The big one in the 50 (I think red runtz) is swelling more everyday. I'm going to switch to ch ching soon. The plant in the 10 had TOTALLY SUPRISED ME. I've never grown a plant lime this. It started out with dark purple in the middle now buds are swelling and calyxes are EVERYWHERE! This plant is growing extremely fast! You'll see what I mean when I put the pics and the videos up. I'm not going to do the event horizon harvest until I get both plants and all of both plants. It will be a while before I finish the toasted toffy one as well. 9/16 I'm glad I took those plants. Weather is good but plants were soaked thos morning. I need to go out at night and see what is eating new shoots. Flowers are looking great. I need to do another app of k bocarb sometime. I'm suprised the pm has pretty much stayed with that one plant. That two other GMO's flanking it are doing awesome! Purple, sticky stinky. It's got the whole package. The one in the 50 has some huge flowers that won't require much longer. The one invthe 10 has some time left. This is clearly a sativa dominant hybrid. The buds are swelling like crazy. It went from NO buds to having little purple calyxes to flowers that look like cat-tails! I can't wait to see what rhis year brings. Once I get things dry and manicured I'll give you guys a look at how the first stage of the first harvest went. I'm super happy. Spent a large part of this morning shaking plants by handcand removing any dead leaves or anything that could cause rot then I went over them with a leaf blower. I'll need to water tonight I imagine. WATERED AROUND 3:00 PM. MY FAVORITE GMO STARTED DROPPING. WATERED EVERYTHING A GALLON EXCEPT I SPLIT ONE GALLON ON THE PLANTS THAT HAD BEEN CUT. IM EXTREMELY TIRED BUT I NEED TO GO OUT AT NIGHT AND SEE IF I CAN FIND EARWIGS CRAWLING UP THE STALKS. WEATHER STILL LOOKS GOOD. BUDS SWELLING PISTOLS RETRACTING AND MORE AND MORE LEAVES DYING. I CANT BELIEVE THE SIZE OF THAT SATIVA LEANING HYBRID IN THE TEN!

Día 42 (27/02). Riego 1,25 Litro H20 + Wholly Base 2,5 ml/l + Solid Green 1,5 ml/l + Rise Up 0,5 ml/l de Gen1:11 TDS 898 PPMs - pH 6,5 (mínimo ajuste con pH+ para subirlo desde 6,2) Plantas sedientas con un intervalo de riego cada 4 días. A partir de ahora regaré cada 3 días Día 43 (28/02) Las ramas crecen muy rápido y se van colocando para recibir el máximo posible de luz. Es impresionante su evolución día a día! Día 44 (29/02) Han crecido 17 cm desde que cambié a 12/12. Alucinante! 😍😍😍 Día 45 (01/03) Riego 1,25 Litro H20 + Wholly Base 2,5 ml/l + Solid Green 1,5 ml/l + Rise Up 0,5 ml/l de Gen1:11 TDS 891 PPMs - pH 6,25 Añado un poco de substrato al top y a los bordes de la maceta antes de regar, porque se ha compactado ligeramente. Día 46 (02/03). Las plantas siguen su crecimiento imparable. 3 cm al día 😍 💦Nutrients by Gen1:11 - www.genoneeleven.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae 🎚️Controlled by TrolMaster TCS-1 Tent-X System Main Controller - https://www.trolmaster.com/Products/Details/TCS-1 Es genial tener el TrolMaster TCS-1 Tent-X ya que puedo tener una visualización rápida de la temperatura y la humedad en tiempo real, y también de las últimas 24 horas y de los últimos 7 días (week) Así puedo ir ajustando la extracción para tener una VPD ideal, y tener una pantalla que te indica si estás en rango, en función de si estás en Fase Vegetativa, Floración o Stress Es genial a su vez tener un tabla / grafico visual de VPD en función de las fases. Mira las últimas fotos para ver esta tabla tan interesante! ("Trolmaster VPD Graph" photo)

Hi everyone, brothers farmers Welcome to a new week in the PeakyPlansters gardens. I invite you to follow all my friends from Instagram even if you like ... I hope the contents like you .... Feel free to leave a comment

The only strain for the red flower from sweetseeds we have grow until know, but after these I will grow sure more of it. Also love to grow the Darkdevilauto because of she's colors, my didn't became so dark but more Violet and green i really love it!!000