Super Woche, warm, sonnig, nur ein kleiner Schauer. Was soll ich sagen..? Es läuft prima. Bei den ersten Damen zeigen sich vorblüten. Habe jetzt alle mindestens 1 mal getoppt. Nur die 2 fat banana noch nicht. Die werden so schön buschig. Wenn die automatics in Kürze fallen, wird erst einmal umgestellt... dann bekommen sie mehr Sonne am Ende der vegetativen Phase. Das ist zumindest der Plan. Es läuft gut.Bis nächste Woche ✌️

Hello hello hello fellow superheroes!! 💪 😎 My little Mimosa BB XXL is not yet XXL but I can already envision the huge final size she wants to achieve! 😜💪 Thanks @Sweet_Seeds for the goodie pack, so happy to have you back in my grow room! Mwah! 😘🙏 💚 💨 Thanks @Green_Buzz_Nutrients for sponsoring the nutrients for this grow!! 💚 💚 💚 Amazing product line!! 🌞 🌱 If you like to try them, you can find a generous discount on their products in my setup description!! ⬇️ Thanks @MedicGrowLED 💚 I love the Light!! 🌞 ____________________________________________________________________ Strain Description: Mimosa Bruce Banner XL Auto®️ An 8th Generation autoflowering strain. The stable hybridization of two excellent strains developed from US genetics. The product of crossing a specially selected very aromatic and resinous elite clone from the popular Mimosa family [Clementine (Tangie x Lemon Skunk) x Purple Punch (Larry OG x Grand Daddy Purple)] with our own Bruce Banner Auto®️ (SWS91). Mimosa Bruce Banner XL Auto®️ (SWS101) is an extra-large autoflowering strain with highly resinous and aromatic buds. These plants have a truly exquisite scent that is particularly sweet and attractive, with shades of citrus fruits reminiscent of mandarin and strawberry, fresh cypress, and pleasant undertones of smoked cheese. It has a potent, happy, even euphoric, and long-lasting effect that enhances the imagination and creativity. Some plants develop flowers and leaves with purple and reddish hues at the end of the flowering period. https://sweetseeds.es/en/autoflowering-seeds/3232-mimosa-bruce-banner-xl-auto.html 🍊 💚 🐘 _____________________________________________________________________________________ SETUP: 80x80x180 cm Zelsius Medic Grow MINI SUN-2 240W Full Spectrum LED Built-in Timer LCD Display high PPFD of 2300μmol/m2/s @ 6 ’’ in height, efficacy is up to 2.8μmol/J, and PPF is up to 672μmol/s built in controller with timer and dimmer www.medicgrow.com Green Buzz Nutrients Shouts go out to my sponsors @GreenBuzzNutrients, thanks so much for your support! 💚 💚 💚 If anyone would like to try their amazing organic products, use code GD42025 for generous 25% discount (for orders of minimum 75€) ✨ https://greenbuzznutrients.com/ custom exhaust fan 320/270cm³/h Carbon Active Granulate 240cm³/h tab water pH 8 - EC 0,25 with Calmag to 0,5 Advanced Hydroponics pH minus Grow + Bloom to pH 6.2

Very good journey to me, she has responded very well to the lst training, providing me beautiful colas, enough for me to have nice clean organic nuggets to smoke. I would definitely would run this Ak420 by seedstockers again, the sweetest phenotype was the number #2 which you can take a look at here in my page!

Wow isn't she looking fab this week?? 😍 Flowers are really plumping up. 😎 Few more weeks yet I think.

Not much sunshine, thank goodness I had a t-5 panel. The temp in old trusty is pretty consistent at 70. They are growing great, spraying when dry and watering when pots are lite.

***UPDATE**** 6/17/2022 I forgot to mention that I transplanted both Big Bud Auto Plants, well slightly transplanted. I started Big Bud #1 off in a 16 oz grow cup and #2 I started off in a peat moss pod. Initially I just put the entire cup/pod into a 5 gallon pot without removing them from the container they were in. After a few days, I thought to myself "won't that restrict root growth somewhat?" so I took #1 out of the grow cup and transplanted directly into the soil in a 5 gallon and #2 I cut the white netting from around the peat moss pod and planted that directly into the soil in a 3 gallon pot. ***Update end*** Week 3 went by well. I'll admit I'm at the point where I've "been there done that" I don't pay as much attention to them and kind of let them do what they do. I lst'd Big Bud Auto #1, she is the healthiest and most robust of the group currently. Big Bud Auto #2 is sort of a runt compared to it's sister. I believe it may have to do to the fact that I started it in a peat moss pod and placed the entire pod into the soil. Caramelicious 2nd generation #1 is a project of mine. One of my plants hermied on my last grow and pollinated itself. This is one of the seeds from that Hermie. I am curious to see if it hermies or is a female. Because after all isn't forcing a female to hermie and pollinate itself is how feminized seeds are made? Needless to say I got over 1000 seeds, so I'm hoping that they are feminized. White Widow #3 popped up with severe helmut head, I tried my best to pull it off without damaging the plant, but ended up ripping a small piece of the tip of the plant. It is really small rn but seems to be growing. I'm curious to see how it grows. Lastly but not least there has been no action with my lavender and my hot chili peppers. I fed my ladies their first nutrients today. General Hydroponics Flora 3 part series. I mixed 1/4 ml into 3 gallons of water and ph'd it to 6.6 and fed each 1 liter.

Buenas noches familia, sorpresa, jueves noche por aquí , actualizamos las power plant xL. Es la última semana antes de nuestra cosecha, el tiempo se nos echó encima y las Flores ya están echas, se preparó un lavado de raíces y tijeretazo,para sucesivamente colgarlas.( PRIMERA VEZ que se me echa el tiempo encima con la floración, jurao) Me habría gustado darles algo de estrés hídrico, pero lo veremos con las lemon kush y las northern light xL. -power plant xL es una cepa con predominancia sativa, con una corta floración,es un ejemplar fácil de cultivar, fuerte, y vigoroso. Estos ejemplares se cultivaron en 7L en sustrato light MIX de plagrOn, controlando en todo momento el PH de nuestras plantas, y dándoles de comer una gama advanced nutrients bastante básica. -PROS: facil cultivar, flores llenas de resina , flores compactas, ramas laterales largas. -CONTRAS: hay que tutorar por el peso de la flor, floración demasiado rápida a mi gusto (no te das ni cuenta). *Aquí ya me despido hasta la cosecha familia.

Hello. This is the end of week 4 and the beginning of week 5 of flowering. I got my 2 long and narrow paper bags out. The ones the french bread are in at the store. The ones with the long plastic window in them. I went to the male plant, that I have in a different greenhouse, and got some of the open flowers and pollen inside the paper bags. This is a good male. It has lots of flowers, not many leaves, is not too tall, and is good smelling with the "rub the stem and smell your fingers" test. And the smell stays on my fingers for a few minutes, not disappearing in a few seconds. Careful not to dump out the pollen I slid the bag over the buds I pick out. I pinched the bag around the branch and held it with a clothes peg. I gently shoock the bag to get the pollen to each flower pistil. When I closed up for the night I shoock up the bag again. I gently took the bags off the next morning, careful not to spray pollen all over the place, then went a got some more pollen for the next plants. and repeated for all 6 plants. Got some yellowing of some of the older leaves. This is sort of self pruning to me, but I will add some extra nitrogen next time to slow the yellowing. I've seen a few fungus gnats around, but nothing to worry about. Ok. The Adventure Goes On. Be Great. Chuck

Hey y'all week 8 in 3 days and things seems to be going not half bad. There's yellowing going on and I think that's due to me not checking my runoff and not correcting but they are in ranges of 6.4 to 6.8 ehhhh I know. But won't let that happen again. Besides that have you seen the frost on these lady's so far, especially for Pheno 1 she is super frosty and has a nice 🍇 🍋 smell that keeps getting better by the week. Pheno 2 smells like lemon citrus and Pheno 3 has a nice 🧀 🍇 smell going for her. Pheno 4 on the other hand is very subtle at the moment but I'll keep my fingers crossed. Till next week growmies Happpy growing y'all 🤙✌️

Really impressed with this SCHLUX SZ-PT400 light. Done another round of LST really bringing th bud sites to the light. Also been tucking my bug fan leaves, don't believe in trimming autos. Captain Redbeard Seeds are really impressive at this point. Will be top dressing with Coast of Maine lobster compost, as well as worm castings and the OG bloom dust. Happy growing

Middle of week 5 flower. Noticing smell more than previous weeks

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Day42 of flowering Girl #1 seems to have tighter buds and is still smaller, but looks like she will finish later (although she popped first by a few days) Girl#2 is much heavier and has sucked the green from her lowest fan leaves even though she is fed well. She also smells soooo good, over ripe cantaloupe/melons. I am really happy with these plants, which I did not top and let colas grow. I am thinking of removing the cola fan leaves to let light blast the other tops. Day 45, Removed almost all fan leaves to expose as much bud as possible to lighting. Scent is very strong and sweet. Very resinous leaf

Buds are stacking nicely. I can't help but wish they were a bit bigger. Not sure if this is due to the root issue earlier in the grow, the new LEDs, or the fact that I FIMed and then LST the plant to have lots of tops. I'm thinking it's probably a combo. Not thinking the ES300s are to blame since they make shit grow so quick and happy. Part of it is also that my #4 and #1 will be pretty light compared to #2 and #3. But ultimately, I think I'm going to be extremely happy with the quality and frostiness of it all... I'm dropping PPMs from low 500s to high 400s throughout the week.

My remaining plants were taken down 10 days ago and allowed to dry @65F /60-65%RH for 8 days before jarring. They prob could have made it another week outside but i didn't want to chance the cold. The dry weight was just over 5oz for the 2 plants pictured, 4 oz of bud and another Oz of popcorn. This strain is GREAT for sleep but can be a real daytime motivation killer.

Plants look great, was hoping for more of a stretch last week but still fairly happy with the plants. Day 36 - I’ll be adding a seed sprout tea this week(awaiting germination) with malted barley and corn. I’m chasing after the amino acids that will increase nutrient uptake as well make my plants more tolerant to environmental stress as I cannot fully control my heat and humidity. As per my humidity pic on 36 - there was a massive mountain fire in my city that raged out of control and burned a few establishments, houses and part of a University. My humidity remained 30-37 all. I wonder if that was the effect of the fire. Day 37 - Fire has been successfully put out by this morning and humidity is back to where it needs to be. The plants look great today although of heat and low humidity of yesterday. Seems like the very resilient now and will be pushing the plants here on out Gave the plants a light water (500ml with full kelphos dose(2.5ml per 500ml) today as with the heat and how thirsty they are, I’m sure they will be ready for another water tomorrow. hoping the barley seeds sprout overnight for a lovely 420 treat for the girls tomorrow. Really excited by about LP#1 which has about 7-8 tops - my money is on this plant to be the top yielded of my tent🎰 Day 38 - humidity and temp is perfect 29* high and an average humidity of 48-50. Fed my plants a Seed Sprout Tea with recipe below. 1. Rinse and washed seeds (barely and corn) 2. Place in a paper towel after 24 hour soak in dechlorinated water. 3. Store in a warm dark area for germination. 4. Once germinated, blended up and diluted in water for final product. I added 1 part SST, 9 parts water Day 39 - plants have responded well to SST, and humidity climbing to high 50s, tough to regulate humidity without any AC and humidifier but hopefully with the amino acids I have just fed the girls, the nutrient uptake will remain optimal. White residue- it was only found in areas where water could be stored on leaves eg. Where stem meets leaf, in the center of the leaves and came off very easy with a light dry rub even. I removed the leaves anyway in case of a fungi problem such as Powdery Mildew Day 40 - plants responded well to SST and continuing to stretch. The buds look amazing and only in 2 week flower. These fastbuds continues to amaze me Happy Earth Day to all organic growers out there🌍 Day 41 - adjusted the plants to make more room for them to grow. The strawberry pie in the top right was late to surface to about 2-3 days but starting to fill out now

Flowering is now in its final ripening stage. Buds have reached impressive density and are heavily coated with trichomes, extending across the sugar leaves and giving the entire canopy an extremely frosty appearance. Calyxes continue to swell, with pistils slowly beginning to darken, indicating that harvest is approaching. Aroma intensity has increased significantly, with strong resin production dominating this stage. The plant remains healthy and stable, supported by the Athena Blended Line, including Bloom A & B, Balance, CaMg and Cleanse, with PK supplementation active since flower week 3 to maximize flower density and resin output. SCROG training has paid off with an even canopy and excellent light distribution across all bud sites. Focus is now fully on maintaining stable conditions and allowing the flowers to finish ripening naturally.

Finished the last week of flushing WOO! and its harvest time! I put them in 48 hours of darkness on Wednesday ready to crop for saturday, I will do a proper harvest report next week when I have them ready to go into curing jars along with some pictures and a full report, but I will add this some of the smells I was getting whilst trimming where unreal smells like pine, citrus, beef and a really faint sweet smell I cant put my finger on... I'm not saying that's 100% what it smells like but it smells similar to wild garlic. Well these b*tches took 14 long hours( could of done it quicker but we made a day of it ) all bud is trimmed and primed for drying then curing. Happy Growing 👊👍