You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wachsen sehr schön und machen keine Probleme.

Things have been going well as I continued to train the stretching girls to the side of the pots, bending and adding ties where needed. Pheno 1 started showing signs of over watering showing droopy leaves as well as what I think is either nitrogen, magnesium or iron deficiency. I'm leaning towards a iron deficiency since the yellowing is on the newest growth at the top. I think this was caused from giving her too much top amendments in her last feed causing a pH imbalance. What I would usually do is just give her a little flush if this is the case but instead I decided to repot her and the other Pheno into their last 19 litre/4 gallong pots as both were drinking pretty quick and I wanted to avoid over watering again. The rootballs looked beautiful when I transplanted them so I was pretty happy with their progress! This round I've ditched the coco as I had way too many issues with it in the past, including knats and PH issues. In this round I've gone with Biobizz light soil which I added some fish blood and bone, earthworm castings, bat guano and then watered with water and liquid seaweed. I love organic growing :). I do intend on using Coco again but I'll need to do some research on some trusted brands. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know! Pheno 2 is showing signs of recovery but I'd love the input from others about what the deficiency could be? I got my new bubblebags today which is making me want to flip to flower so I can get to harvesting and making some bubble but I'm going to be super patient this round. I want these girls to fill up as much of my 4 x4 tent space as possible. Until next week! ✌️

J'ai utilisé uniquement de l'eau cette semaine pour les arrosages en terre pour commencer le rinçage, uniquement un engraissage en foliaire en début de semaines , je vais faire encore une semaine voir 2 pour le rinçage.je pense atteindre mon objectif de 2g par watt. Un grand nombre de tête fond environ 30cm 🤩 et elle vont prendre encore un peu...💪

What a week. They turned purple and I thought they were stressed.... But I had smoothly forgotten that purple punch was in it.😅🤣Also, thanks to hesi Bv. I can show you how good their products are. Keep following me on growdiaries insta and youtube. Green greetings CaptenSmokey haha 🙏🍀

So far so good the girls are thirsty af with 24/7 so im giving about 2.6L every 2 days per Plant

Since the original plant I started with has pulled through I will stop tracking the back up plant. This girl is going strong still. I expect her to finish her stretch this week.

I want to start LST on Day 23. I will just bend her down and tie the leaves to the side. Every Strain is doing really good, im watering them all 3 days adding the nutritions above. But i also see some strains that didnt like the overwatering at the start. And i burned my strawberry gorilla a bit with waterdrops on the leaves. but she seems to be unimpressed by that. Today i also noticed a very little smell when i opened my tent. im curious which one is making this scent, it was really sweet. i raised the light intensity from 70% to 85%, leavin the rest for bloom. Day 24: i watered them yesterday with about half a litre of water. i included lacalva stress treatment before making the LST. i kind of feeling like im a bit too late, but we will see. Day 26: we had a blackout, because a constructionworker hitted the main cable. 2,5 hours less light, im so glad that these are automatics! Day 27: Damn guys, i think i did bad on this LST stuff. all of them are really bushy and very strong showing upward. in my first grow, i never had these issues. but all of the stems are so huge. they are close to be bigger than the final stem of my first grow. i think i need to defoliate them soon. i removed the wire and let them do what they want, until they get to know the net.

Super busy with a move and a big garden reno. Sorry, this is the only update for this week

The seedling is doing really well. We are progressing at a normal pace. There isn't much else to report this week. These weeks are always slow and pretty boring. I'm just keeping the medium sufficiently watered. 16.9.25: I watered with .5L of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.4 with; 💜 1ml Trace PH: 6.4 PPM: 318 The fungus gnats have really incresed since I did a watering of the whole tent. I have some more sticky traps set out, and I will not water for several days. Once it has dried the top soil, I will add some more Diatomaceous Earth to the top 5cm. Thank you for checking in this week and hanging out in the comments 😁💚✌️🌱🤞🧡

Day 29 - Second day of light defoliation only at the base. LST continues along with regular tucking Day 30 - flowering is kicking in for two of the girls and they are starting to get some stretch going on. They are not very tall but sure seem happy. Day 35? - Final pics posted for end of week 5 and week 1 of flower is killing it. Got the light dialed in after researching the par output on my light and watching some reviews. It’s now at 18 inches running 100%. 335 watt draw at the outlet. They seem to be loving it. Day 32 - finally finished the watering system. I can travel now if I have to.

Two low branch broke off due to wind and stem wasnt stong enough for weight of the buds....other than that just a handful or two of defoliation every two day or so....makes trimming ez lol

The Blue Dream did very good , gave me thick dense buds full of crystals and smelling sweet and fruity

Well, I got the ladies transplanted. They seem to be doing fine and enjoying the new setup. I will as always be updating throughout the week. Thank you for your support. ✌️😎

! this is my current status, gonna upload my last veg weeks within the next week - got a bit busy around Spannabis - thank you for your understanding! 💚 Welcome to Bud Boutique Grow Diary - really appreciate all your love and support :) Dont forget to check out my other current grows! 🗓️ This Week: after 48 hours of complete darkness (important for seedlings to make sure all plants switch into flower same time), I finally switched my lights to the 12/12 schedule and sent my ladies into the flower. - This one Phenos super strong - more than healthy and going well - Day 3: Foliar spray with APTUS Regulator and APTUS Nutrispray to give them extra micronutrients and give them a little shell for protection. ! always use APTUS Regulator first and mix well with your water before adding any other nutrients for Feeding or Foliar! Thank you for still staying with me 💚 ___________________________________________ --- 🌱 Strain (Sponsor) --- 🏷️ Blue Cinderella 99 FF by MSNL https://www.marijuana-seeds.nl/blue-cinderella-99-fast-flowering --- 🥗 Nutrients and Feeding (sponsored by APTUS: APTUS Ambassador) --- 🍸 APTUS: full nutrient schedule extreme -- Regulator, N-Boost, P-Boost, CaMg-Boost, K-Boost, Allin1 Liquid, Startbooster, Topbooster, Enzym+ every feeding -- Fulvic-Blast, NutriSpray as Foliar each once a week 🔗 https://aptus-holland.com/ --- ♻️ Grow Control (Sponsor) --- TROLMASTER: TENT-X + LM14 Light Adapter to dim/sunrise/sunset lights + Temp & rH Sensor all remote on App 🔗 https://www.trolmaster.eu/ --- 🏭 Grow Setup --- 💡LUMATEK Zeus Pro 600 * 🏠🌿 Indoor: Homebox 120x120x200cm (4x4) * 📐🌀 PrimaKlima exhausting Fan 1180m3/h (running on 60-80%) * 🌀 Can Light Filter 800m3/h & 1x Fanbox 1x Dyson fan for Air circulation 🔗 https://lumatek-lighting.com/zeus-600w-pro-29/ 🔗 https://primaklima.com/de/shop/ventilatoren-de/ec-ventilatoren/pk160ec-tc/ 🔗 https://canfilters.com/products/filters/ All Likes and comments are highly appreciated!!! 👨‍🌾 don't forget to check out my Instagram for daily educational content: budboutiquee - Bud Boutique

December 29 day 15, growth is fine, I will likely top the plant later in the week. Roots are developed enough to remove humidity dome, although I am still running a humidifier. December 30, day 16, topped the Malasana cookies and removed growth at the first node. I am not mainlining as I don't think it would give me an even canopy across the 8sqft growing area this plant will take up. The topping won't give the same symmetry, but with a bit of training I will end up with an even, wide canopy. I removed the branches from the first node as I would have to end up removing a lot of that growth. In my experience those first branches never fill in as much anyways. December 31 day 17, recovery from topping going well. Put the humidity dome back on to keep the VPD at around .8kPa. January 2 day 19, despite the large pot causing a bit of overwatering leaf droop the Malasana cookies continues to recover well. I am done with the humidity dome after waffling back and forth quite a bit. I posted an image in more natural light to so that the leaves are a healthy green. Just that edge curling that will work itself out when the plant grows into its big container. January 4 day 21, growth is taking off as it should at this age. Its still going to be a long veg to get an 8sqft flowering size. Recovery from the topping is good, and new leaves are healthier with less clawing. I applied LST with plant ties to get growth to head toward my plant training frame (atlas plant trainer).

Gracias al equipo de Sensi Seeds, Marshydro, XpertNutrients y Pro-Mix, sin ellos esto no seria posible. 💐🍁: Mr Nice G13 x Hash Plant: Las semillas de cannabis Mr Nice G13 x Hash Plant son 100% Indica. La variedad incluye G13 en su genética; una planta afgana de primera calidad que (según la leyenda) fue sacada de contrabando de un centro de investigación del gobierno por un técnico. Sensi Seeds desarrolló la variedad con el objetivo de mejorar aún más la G13 y el resultado fue Mr Nice, que se lanzó en 1999. Mr Nice G13 x Hash Plant Regular tiene un tiempo de floración de 60 a 65 días. Como era de esperar, dada su genética índica, esta variedad no alcanza alturas significativas. Sin embargo, cuando se cultiva en exterior, no es raro que las plantas alcancen unos 190 a 240 cm. En interior, son mucho más compactas, y la planta media crece aproximadamente entre 80 y 170 cm. Mr Nice G13 x Hash Plant Regular proporciona un colocón corporal increíblemente potente. Es 100 % índica y esto se nota en el efecto de "apagón" que produce, ya que los usuarios afirman sentirse muy relajados y aliviados después de consumirla. Gracias a la genética "doble afgana", las plantas producen un aroma terroso y picante. Este aroma tiene un matiz dulce, rico y penetrante, que se intensifica a medida que maduran los cogollos. Al gusto, es casi como una mezcla de ganja y hachís, ya que es excepcionalmente fuerte y rico. 🚀🌻 Consigue aquí tus semillas: https://sensiseeds.com/en/cannabis-seeds/sensi-seeds/mr-nice-g13-x-hash-plant 💡FC6500: Eficiencia líder en el mercado: la lámpara de cultivo LED FC-E6500, que ostenta un estatus líder en el mercado, es una solución rentable con un PPE de 2,8 µmol/J y un rendimiento máximo de 2,5 g/vatio. Ofrece un PPF alto de 2026 umol/S y es adecuada para una cobertura de vegetación de 1,50 m x 1,50 m y una cobertura de flores de 1,20 m x 1,20 m. Iluminación versátil y uniforme. https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-fc-e-6500-730w-commercial-led-grow-light/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1qO0BhDwARIsANfnkv9IIrYSbmJqz8PqpJOIyWwJfp5bc3SGJgUV68USLQ4tjmXDYwoBuAsaAue3EALw_wcB 🚥 MarsHydro ADLITE UV/IR/RED: Para lograr un crecimiento óptimo de las plantas y maximizar los rendimientos es un arte simple que depende en gran medida de las condiciones ambientales adecuadas. Reconociendo las limitaciones de la iluminación natural y las soluciones de iluminación tradicionales para satisfacer estas necesidades únicas, lanzamos ADLITE. Estas luces especiales UV, IR y roja están diseñadas para llenar áreas del espectro, proporcionando las altas longitudes de onda que las plantas necesitan para un crecimiento y desarrollo óptimos. Consigue aqui tu Adlite: https://marshydro.eu/collections/adlite-supplemental-lights/ 🏠 : Marshydro 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80, carpa 100% estanca con ventanas laterales para llegar a todos los lugares durante el grow https://marshydro.eu/products/diy-150x150x200cm-grow-tent-kit 🌬️💨 Marshydro 6inch + filtro carbon para evitar olores indeseables. https://marshydro.eu/products/ifresh-smart-6inch-filter-kits/ 🍣🍦🌴 Xpert Nutrients es una empresa especializada en la producción y comercialización de fertilizantes líquidos y tierras, que garantizan excelentes cosechas y un crecimiento activo para sus plantas durante todas las fases de cultivo. Consigue aqui tus Nutrientes: https://xpertnutrients.com/es/shop/ 📆 Semana 5: Una vez terminada la fase de estiramiento dedican todo su esfuerzo a crear nuevos pistilos y resina, es hora de engordar estos futuros cogollos. La carpa esta totalmente cubierta gracias al FC-6500 y los Adlite de Marshydro, se nota la floración mas avanzada que otras veces y con una mayor densidad. Continuo con las dosis de nutrientes recomendadas por XpertNutrients.