The smell from this strain is really pungent. Not a nice smell though it’s like garlic I believe…anyone who grew this strain possible can confirm…the buds are sticking up nicely though.

En esta 3ra semana le corte los primeros 4 brotes a cada planta, ya que considero que esos primeros brotes quedan tapados por la luz y no se desarrollan tanto. Han crecido de buena manera, aunque el color verde de las hojas no es pareja, quizás la poda les afectó un poco o porque la extracción sigue siendo pasiva para mantener la humedad y eso afecta al proceso metabolico. Durante la próxima semana el fertilizante de root-juice lo cambiaré por vitamax pro, y mejorare la entrada y salida de aire. .... Se me había olvidado agregar a la solución de agua de bidon Cal-max, tal vez eso les faltaba, lo tendré en cuenta.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

There growing fast no preflowers have shown probably cuz well idk not waiting long enough newayz gonna run out of room soon so i neeb to know which are ladys so im not waisting time and materials. Next run is growers choice seeds skywalker og since no one has done them yet on grow diaries and bubba kush. Just got 14 fleek og reg seeds from bag...29percentthc bud danky bud reall good see wa state for purchase and strain info....true og x og kush.....tjis run. Is 2 fleek leaf bah seeds and 4 mystic farm seeds which the bud was ok at nest but i believe it was just a poorly cured dispensary bs. It was almost there so i feel well worth the try considering lineage.....PP IS THE PLATINUM PUNCH WOOKIES IS THE WHITES XGSC JET FUEL ALSO KNOW AS G6 AND MY FAVE PUNCH BREATH WE ALL KNOW MENDO KILLS IT SO A PUCNH MENDO BABY SHOULD BE SEXY

Hi everyone I chop her down day 86 and let her dry in 19° temp and RH 65 % I'm going to slow drying for best results 7 to 8 days She is very dense and sticky bud and so heavy too I think she yield over 150g plus but the bud are not 100% purple its mix with light purple and green ass you can see in pic or video but still I'm very very happy and already germinate another purple lemonade 💜 next week I will update smoke reviews and final dry weight 😀

Reaching for the sky. This is the strain I created & this is my first time growing it. It's a regular photoperiod strain I hope it's a girl so I can hopefully taste what my hard work created!

Day 1 I don't understand why her growth is progressing so slowly; it seems like she's being rather lazy about it, and I have a gut feeling that she is growing slowly because of the humidity PH 6.0 EC 0.6 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 25c Day 2 Refresh the water and add 10 L nuts PH 5.8 EC 0.8 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 25c Day 3 PH 6.2/5.8 EC 0.8 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 23c Day 4 Thu Add AC water to lower the EC PH 6.2/5.8 EC 0.9/0.7 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 22c Day 5 Fri Add AC water PH 6.1/5.9 EC 0.8/0.7 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 23c Day 6 Sat PH 5.9 EC 0.8 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 21c Day 7 Sun PH 5.9 EC 0.8 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 21c

No bug or disease problems. I even took her off veg nutes way too soon and she recovered like a fucking champ. I’m popping two more this week. Unfortunately i didn’t weigh it because Of some very unfortunate circumstances that I was dealing with at the time. I essentially had to vacate my premise within 24 hours. A few days after harvest. Anyways. I ended up smoking the whole thing with my friends and it was straight fire. The terps were crazy also. Super sweet. After curing she had a very sweet smell like bubblegum / grape. This was only my second harvest ever.

Had an awesome week, she finished her final stretch and now ill focus on one final defoliation and lollipop to redirect energy to buds.

Sa a bien stretch partout, tout est sain , rien a signaler, sa commence a fleurir On y va molo sur l'engrais, belle plante , on voit que les boutures se plaisent en hydro , et les mamans se portent bien en terre 100% organic , sa annonce du beau tout sa , un phénotype sur 4 sort du lot par son stretch 2 fois plus prononcé que les autres,mais dans l'ensemble tout ce porte a merveille j'ai hâte de voir les buds #madamegrow #trolmaster

So guys today is day 49 entering week 8, so 1 more week on the bio bizz heaven, top max and bloom. The weather in the UK is mad at the minute 28°c my grow room is the same with lights off and causing my a lot of humidity, thank god for the dehumidifier but I'm emptying it twice a day now. Buds are getting fatter and the fade is coming on. Just got to go in there and check on them, temp has dropped now even tho light is on. Humidity is sitting at 50%. I hope you like the video, happy growing peoples😊💚 ignore the ozzie man review voice at the beginning 🤣🤣🤣 Day 52 flower, buds are fat sticky and ready to harvest, im waiting for more of a fade as I reckon they will swell more, I think another week and its time for the chop. Any questions or advice please feel free to hit me up. Day 54, done a slight defoliation at there was a lot of leaf on leaf, I should of used cropguard for piece of mind 😅 next run I will trust me. I have started the ripener 5ml to a litre I will be running this for the next 7-10 days and then rinsing with there rinse aid for 4 days so aiming for harvest on the 24th-25th latest 😀. Happy growing famalam 💚

Trichomes have turned opaque. A few have turned brown. I stopped adding nutrition and just watered. This week it started to rain again so i am determined to harvest in the next 1-2 weeks. Thankyou. SEE YOU NEXT WEEK.

Autos are just starting to flower the photos are dying for some bigger pots. I've been trying to bring up the overall plant health in general since moving everything to a basement the temps are a little lower than ideal. I had a space heater delivered today and monitored the temps but they only went up to around 78°f I want it to be atleast 82°f ideally 85. The heater uses 1500 watt and only increased it about 2 or 3°. I dont think it's worth the extra cost for such little boost. I'm thinking about returning the heater and throwing a 1000w hps in one of the other tents and see if that will raise it anymore. Especially with LED and co2 higher temps would be very beneficial in veg and early flower but the room is so big its gunna be tough to pull off without killing me on electric costs. Any suggestions are welcome. I know this room does decent in flower but I havnt done much veg work down here and I'll have some autos growing this round so it's important I get it up.

pH was important as expected and a bit of light burn later on in the grow but ultimately it was pretty smooth sailing. I used a very common nutrient (GHE) and not overly strong. Buds were thick, dense, and moderately pine smelling. The plant did not grow excessively tall thanks to LST, and the LST did not seem to have any ill effects at all. Foliage was thick, and I let it go for a very long time before doing any sort of defoliation. Even then it was modest and just to get light to the lower colas. Still in trimming mode and will continue to update :) Also, other plants in the house got spider mites. Not this one. Could have been that it was in hydro and others weren't but hard to say.

Deje las plantas al cuidado de mí Hermano por las vacaciones. Crecieron mucho en dos semanas un cambio increíble. Voy a tener que hacer un último LST. Ya mañana subo buenas fotos.