IVE MADE MORE VIDEOS BUT THEY JUST DON'T SEEM TO UPLOAD AND IT'S FAR TO SLOW TO DO IT FROM HOME 6/27 Made last week a five day week to get back on track. It's still overcast and rainy. It's not raining a lot bit it's consistent. Despite the weather the plants are doing phenomenal. I'll update later. It's 1pm. It's been raining consistently since 11. Just a sprinkle but it's steady. I'm going to begun uploading the weeks weather on my diary. I may start a new diary for the plants I light depped as they are flowering pretty good. Rain stopped and it's just overcast for now. I looked at some videos and did a comparison of videos one week ago and videos today and HOLY SHIT! WHAT A DIFFERENCE. Especially the light depped 10th planet. Well everything but that was the most significant difference. I'm astonished at the health and growth despite the crummy weather. Continued to rain. Just got harder. Plants are taking it but it's flooding underneath the pallets a little but it will be fine. The light dep however has me concerned. The 10th planet is looking spectacular. The bigger purple punch I'd looking good too. The smaller one though looks to have a pollen sack coming off one of the branches. Considering its not on the otherside I assume it's not just a swollen calyx. I don't mind chucking it especially if that means I don't hurt my other girls so I want to make sure. I sent videos to a few other growers and I'll add a question on here. Those three plants have been isolated from the rest for a few days due to rain. I have the suspect isolated alone until I can confirm. It sucks cause the light Depp was going good and the6ve all got little flowers. 6/28 Well that fucking sucks. ALL THREE plants I tried to light depp hermed on me. I could see male flowers. Luckily I had been keeping a really good eye on them and it was preflowers mostly. At least I caught it. One or two stamines on each plant. Would've been really easy to miss. Only one had STARTED to elongate into a stem so I think I caught it early enough. Plus since all this rain they've been kept in a different location then my big girls. Glad I did that now. Boy the roots looked good on those plants. I just grabbed the stalk and lifted and it came right out of the pot. I held it there admiring it for a minute. This sucks. At least the real plants are doing good. As far as I know. No male preflowers that's for sure. I've got some feedback from other growers and the videos are a little blurry but I had found a light leak and I'm certain these plants hermed. I know I could've tried to save them but I didn't want to risk it. I compared what I was seeing with Google photos and other websites. Aside from the larger ball with its stem, there were also several little bumps besides developed calyxes that were weaving into little buds. Trust me that I wouldn't cut down my plants if I wasn't 110% sure. I might've been able to "save them" but to me it's just not worth the risk. 6/29 I was second guessing myself pretty hard last night due to some responses I got on my light dep and messages I got from other growets. Made my anxiety horrible but I looked on several video's I'd taken again and I know what I saw. I felt better after that. This was after I researched and waited THREE days until I saw the ball on the stem and the groupings of small nubs under a fresh yellow flower. These plants were flowering good and it sucks to lose them. One MAY have been ok but one was a runt and had all the characteristics of a true hermaphrodite. They were only in 3's and I couldn't risk my harvest for an experiment. Still sucks. Oh well. Sun is starting to come out. Plants seem to be doing fantastic. I have one spot on a leaf that looks like a pillar munched on a leaf so I'll probably get the bt out soon as I have a dry day that I can apply it. I'll have to check the weather. I need to start a nute regiment but the plants aren't telling me they need anything yet. 6/30 I fucked up dates or dodnt do it yesterday or it didnt save right so I'm leaving this blank today is the 1st. 7/1 I have still only watered s couple times and I haven't had to feed. This week I'm going to start nutes. I had some external ersonal situations that have kept me from my plants. I'm hoping to get back on track. I noticed some pillar damage so I'll need to dig out the BT. This morning I saw this giant ground hog by my cage. Hated too but had to get rid of him. Of course some of the blowback landed on the leaves of one of my plants. I tried to clean it as best I could. Better than that fat bastard eating everything in one night. I broke a branch either falling around it or bulling through when I was pissed or I LST it the wrong way and the wind broke it against the tomato cage. Nice big branch too on top. I tried to fix it with duct tape but we'll see. The plants need me to spend sometime with them. I need to clean them up. Apply bt and give them their first feeding. I'll update as I go. They don't seem nutrient deficient by any means but I don't think it would hurt to start the nutes. 7/2 Bags were lighter today and if it wasn't going to rain tonight and tomorrow I'd he watering. Plants look great so soil isn't depleted yet I guess. They're growing rather rapidly. The branch I broke didnt make it. Had an idea it wouldn't but I had to try. I waited on the BT on account of the rain. I may go back over and change my mind and water with silica or a mild nute solution or maybe apply the BT. Depends what time I get back. I have some work I need to do over there. There's a few that I need to clean up the bottoms on. Pest damage is minor and limited to one or two plants and a leaf or two only. 7/3 More rain. It was supposed to rain this morning too but it didn't. We got .33in yesterday and through last night so I thought that was ok. Looking back on my previous diaries I'm doing things significantly different than before. I had used a lot more nutes earlier on. This morning I mixed two gallons of 2tsp of big bloom and fed it to the 9 plants in smart pots leaving the container plants as they have much more water in them. Looking back at other diaries I previously had, WPM and septoria by this time not to mention a shit ton of other pests I was fighting by this time. Since I poisoned where the cagexwas multiple times and sprayed the cage before it was moved I luckily don't have that problem yet knock on wood. I'm planning to apply BT tonight to deal with the moth larvae if there are any. I'm looking at plants around this area and im seeimg SOME septoria and pm on raspberry bushes and burdock so it is around. I made sure my cage is not by any other vegetation this year and is sitting on asphalt with the bags on raised pallets. Good thing I did or I guarantee they'd be flooded by now. I've been seeing multiple complaints from maine growers online (AND THEY HAVE HEALTHY PLANTS!) saying this is the worst year ever. Maybe they need a dose of fusarium oxysporum to keep them humble. This is maine. If you don't like the weather just wait five minutes. Meanwhile I'll be doing my sun dance hoping for sun. "Hard to grow cannabis with no sunlight" said another grower on my forum.

I’m just happy I’m this far along with these two! Well I’m shocked that one of them is still trying to stretch so late into the grow. Otherwise I’m excited for flowers.

Esta semana está empezando a crear unas buenas porras de cogollos que se ven que tienen muy buena pinta 🔥 El ritmo que tiene es bastante bueno y parece que tiene mucha fuerza 💪 Hemos mantenido los valores en la misma linea exceptuando la humedad que la hemos bajado un 10%.

i waiting to amber trichomes

Besides the nutrients above, they received UAN 32-0-0, liquid worm castings, Neptune’s 2-6-4, Neptune’s seaweed 0-0-1, TPS chelated calmag, and molasses. The roots seem to be bigger than the plant atm, from extra use of Mykos and azos... I would definitely expect exponential growth in the next 3 weeks. The plants are exactly where I wanted them size wise for day 21. At least 10-12 strong bud sites already each plant and they definitely smell danker than most plants I’ve grown before.

Day late on the update, pics/vids were taken on time tho just been a crazy week of harvests and trimming and keeping up with these. I transplanted all of them into 1 gallon bags 4 days ago from today. I linked up with Rain Science Grow Bags on Instagram and got them to offer all my followers and friends a discount of 10% off entire order from their site with the code ' bangdang ' so if anyone is in the market for a pot upgrade use that code. I got them in the mail 3 days after I ordered. Reason I went with Rain Science is because they offer identical air flow for rapid growth as the radicle bags, just using a different material and a tighter knit so water doesnt flood out the sides during feeds and when you pick these up when the coco is dry, it wont fly all over the tent like with the radicles. They're the optimal bag for autoflowers especially.

Hermosas las chiquillas!!! La próxima semana las cambio a flora ya que las 2 más pequeñas están muy bebés aún.

I did a big defoliation and lollipop on day 14

Hallo und willkommen in unseren weiteren Vegetationsphase Viel gibt es nicht zu berichten, die Purple auf dem Balkon stagniert iab jetzt. Bis hierhin haben wir sie vom Düngeverhalten weit runtergefahren. Sie wird diese in kommender Zeit nicht mehr richtig verarbeiten können. Und tiefdunkelgrüne Blätter sehen nicht wirklich ansprechend aus 😉 Im Garten wächst alles ruhig vor sich hin. Ab und zu bekommen die Damen ehrlicher weise einen Schluck zu viel Regenwasser. Liegt aber daran, das der Dünger an der Haupt Arbeitsstelle sich befindet. Ansonsten keine Auffälligkeiten außer das es Zeit wird, die Purple im Zelt umzutopfen. Das wird jetzt demnächst geschehen. Da wir mit ihr noch ein Transport Vorhaben, sollte sie erst mal klein bleiben. Passt soweit bis hierher 👍 Vielen Dank fürs vorbeischauen und wir wünschen allen eine angenehme und erfolgreiche Woche! Vielen Dank auch im voraus, für das verfolgen der wöchentlichen Update's ggf. Kommentare und likes! VG ✌️

Gaat goed ga volgende week in de bloei zetten . Heb wel 2 achterblijvers maar dat groeit wel bij hoop ik 🤔🤔

What a pleasure to see, to smell, and to grow, wonderful and magic strain, absolutely in love with the pure OG aroma, very strong, absolute gassy very powerful aroma, flowers completely covered in resin, super sticky, I just love tjis genetic man, always gotta have some OG in the garden this is the prove 💎❄️ peace guys ✌️💚

I loved it. Grew some really nice buds, produced an amazing smell that filled the room once I opened my tent. The buds are really sticky, trichomes looked amazing they were about 75% cloudy when I cut her down.

Smell is a little bit more than last week

Still growing crazy the fastest growing I’ve ever done. I am still feeding once plain water and then next feed nutrients. I will be starting biobizz (alg a mic) next feed.

Esta semana pasa a floracion y continua la estimulacion con delta 9 y mañana cambia el fotoperiodo a 12 /12

Close to harvest now, i think 1 more week and they are ready.. Started the flush, only giving nutes to BB she is heat stressed and growing slow.

So in just the last week, the plants already doubled. GSC went from 11 to 22". Widow went from 8 to 14". Gelat.og went from 10 to 18". GSC seems to want to grow up quickly. Huge growth spurt. Flowered after 3 days. Flowers are developing well meanwhile the other two are just showing a few tendrils. Hopefully an uneventful week.

Only given water up till now. I've repoted them all together into a 10ltr pot so will still only give water for now. Two look red /purple but the other two are all green still,. There growing nice and easy ✌️ 😎

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.