Whats up everybody cheers to another week of growth for everyone! This week the ladies buds started showing signs of progress. You can see them produce more and more resin every day thanks to the cold weather its really easy to keep a pretty dry environment. Can’t wait to do my final defo next week! Until then stay green!

Week 3 - Sometimes You Have To Lose To again. I Made a The Sacrifice Of The Leaves So The Plant Can Redirect It’s Energy Into The Branches Attach To It.

Week 10 and week 4 of flower, looking frosty ❄️.

Woche 4 – Gorilla Girl XL Auto Woche vier und die Gorilla Girl XL Auto hinterlässt bereits einen starken Eindruck. Die Pflanze hat einen deutlichen Stretch hingelegt und entwickelt eine kräftige, sehr symmetrische Struktur mit mehreren starken Seitentrieben. Auch hier zeigen sich inzwischen die ersten weißen Härchen (Pistils), wodurch klar wird, dass die Vorblüte gestartet hat. Besonders auffällig ist die Wuchskraft – die Internodien sind sauber aufgebaut und das Blattwerk wirkt extrem vital und sattgrün. Bis jetzt macht die Genetik ihrem Ruf alle Ehre: sehr stabil, sehr vital und mit viel Potenzial für eine starke Blütenentwicklung in den kommenden Wochen. 🔥🌱

New week! Tips and help from last week, I had around 1500 ppm and I did flush my roots in water and change everything. Now is around 1000 ppm and dropping 150 ppm a day. Did read about water level in DWC and how to increase the grow with water. I had the water almost up to the root or the level of there the basket is. Now I have 1-2 inch (2-5 cm) below where the roots come out. This create air roots. I'm not sure if it's the air roots or the ppm but my flower is boosting. Can se buds grow!! Trimming so I can keep the same hight. Have any tips or rekomandation? Only have one question for next week and this is: it's looking a bit thigth between the buds and all of the leaf is cristal on it. Should I cut some more leaf? And what leaf should I trim? Is so thigth in there. Or will it grow fine?

This week went really well ! Today we are at day 79 from seed an looking beautiful! One Forbiddin Runtz got chopped an hung to dry out an the rest are still flushing out through the rest of this week! Very nice looking fades coming along on the fan leafs from purple to green , so beautiful ! So happy with these genetics from @fastbuds_genetics! Super sticky an smell is so amazing, room full of purple punch’s an Forbiddin Runtz the smell you can’t beat, so many berries!!! Well stay tuned for next week! Cheers y’all

Both plants, Jackie I and Jackie II look great. Big buds all over and they smell awesome. Can't wait to harvest them. I love this strain from the coffeeshops, hope it tastes like I know it 😍

🌱 Flip Day | End of Veg - Day 59 From Lights ON The switch has finally been flipped. After 54 days from seed, the ladies are officially entering flower mode and the 400W HPS has taken over for the stretch phase. Time to let them run. This last week was all about canopy management. I went pretty heavy on the defoliation, removing a lot of large fan leaves that were blocking tops and restricting airflow through the jungle. I also did some additional supercropping and continued working the screen to keep everything as even as possible before the flip. The SCROG is sitting around 90% full and the canopy is looking nice and level. Exactly what I was aiming for before moving to 12/12. From here on I'll keep tucking and spreading tops during the first couple weeks of stretch to fill the remaining gaps. The girl on the left (Caramba) has turned into a dense, bushy beast with tight internodes and a very compact structure. The two Nebulas on the right have a bit more vigor and are already showing signs they'll be the stretchier ladies of the tent. Looking forward to seeing how they stack up under HPS. Feeding remains simple and consistent. The plants are getting around 3L each every 3 days and are responding great. Leaves are healthy, color is on point and overall vigor is strong across the board. One thing I'm really happy with is how the canopy came together after all the LST, supercropping and screen work. The plants recovered fast from every training session and are now entering flower with a solid foundation. Airflow is much better after the cleanup and light penetration has improved significantly. Now the real fun begins. The screen is loaded, the HPS is blazing and stretch season is officially underway. Let's see what these girls can do. 🔥🌿

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Day 11: Watered each plant with 0.1l with nuts 465 ppm, 987 us/cm, 0.9 EC Lights at 35% The strawberry banana seedlings was very late in coming out of the ground, I had to give the helmet a hand to get it out, through 2 or 3 drops of water. One of the seeds is not good, it grew poorly, I put a Gorilla Cookies to replace it, also from fadtbuds. Let's see how it goes Day 12: The strawberry bananas are recovering well, one of the seeds is starting to get normal leafs, sounds perfect Day 13: Watered each plant with 0.25L with nuts 480 ppm, 1027 us/cm, 1 EC Lights at 50% Day 16: Watered each plant with 0.3L with nuts 668 ppm, 1423 us/cm, 1.4 EC Performed foliar callmag while the lights were off

Week 5 begins for LSD and Green Crack! The LSD ladies had the most yellowing over the last week, yet they have the most frost on the buds. The Green Crack ladies had a little bit of yellowing and has bigger buds, but no frost at this time. They all seem very happy in their new 4x8 home. Thanks for stopping by growfessors, tune in next week for another episode of growfessor theatre. 👽🌳💚

Week 3 Update Day 18 (VT18): The nutrient comparison has been running for a week now. While it's too early to draw conclusions about plant performance, the effort required for preparing the irrigation water is clear: GHF is the quickest, followed by BioBizz, and Advanced Nutrients takes the most time. The new pots are amazing—no water leaking out the sides during watering, and the zipper feature for moisture control is a game-changer! Attaching today’s pictures along with a poll for your input. Cam Check Issue: While away, I noticed on the cam that GHF#2 has started curling its lower leaves. It’s well-watered, treated identically to BioBizz#1. Should I repot with fresh soil? Day 20 (VT20) – GHF#2 Emergency: As the title suggests, GHF#2 is in serious trouble. I’ve ruled out overwatering, tap water issues, CalMag deficiency, and soil quality. BioBizz#1, which received the same treatment, is fine. The only variable is the GHF nutrients added during repotting: 2g GHF BioBloom per liter 1g GHF Enhancer per liter Symptoms: All fan leaves are curling from the bottom upwards, while shoots remain unaffected. Unsure what’s causing this, I replaced the substrate entirely with BioBizz LightMix and skipped any additional nutrients for now. The discarded #3 plant was on the windowsill but has been returned to the tent as a backup. It’s looking rough but might be better than losing GHF#2 entirely. Unfortunately, this development jeopardizes the nutrient comparison for GHF, as I’m confident it’s not overfertilization. Let’s see if GHF#2 recovers in LightMix. If it does, the issue was the nutrients. Day 23 (VT23): BioBizz#1: Thriving as expected, consistent with past grows using BioBizz. GHF#2: Still struggling, with all fan leaves curling. Growth is significantly slower than the others. AN#4: Incredible growth and root development—roots are visible everywhere after just five days. Unfortunately, GHF#2's condition has worsened: curling is now spreading to the shoots, moving from the bottom upwards. Growth has stalled almost entirely over the past four days. Next Steps: GHF#2 is likely beyond saving. I may replace it with #3, though its week on the windowsill has stunted its growth. Catching up to AN#4 seems unlikely. I’m considering moving BioBizz#1 alongside AN#4 in the main tent, while #3 gets 1-2 weeks in the smaller tent. However, I’m unsure if #3 should remain with GHF nutrients. It hasn’t been fed yet, and starting an organic regimen this late might not work. Side Note: My girlfriend insisted on saving #3—seems like fate played a hand, and so far, she’s been proven right! 😅 Attaching updated pictures for your insights.

Pink gelato is still not fully recovered and still looks a bit stressed, but I decided to take the risk and move forward anyway. Both plants were originally planned for this run, but I removed the smaller one and kept the stronger plant to stay focused and avoid an uneven setup. She was transplanted into her final 8.5L pot and moved into the 70x70 flowering tent. The substrate was prepared the same way as before using the BioTabs “just add water” approach. Once everything is set up properly, the idea is to let the soil life take over and keep things simple with just water. Per liter of soil (recycled BioBizz Light Mix with ~50% perlite): 7 g dolomite lime 5 g Startrex 5 g Silicium Flash Into the planting hole: 5 g Mycotrex 1 BioTab Watered in with: 1 g Bactrex dissolved in water

Day 40: They got recoverd from overwatering. Leafs got darker because I gave them more nutrients, but gained early signs of slightly overfeeding ( Burnt tips on leafs). I had to boost them to fix it because there isn't much time with autoflowers. Now i only have to adjust my nutrient feeding with just 10 to 15% and its all good. They did stretch again, some growers love it but i think it is ugly and you will gain weak stems. I have to do something about the heat soon, because i want my buds compact and not fluffy. This will happen due lots of heat. I also have to start give them cal/mag, i saw first stages of deficiency. Not a problem when you are early with spotting it. Nice lovely buds so far Thats all for now Day 42: I have been defoliating alot to get the air between the plants. There are still some leafs and branches i want to get rid off, but i don't want them to stress out to much. Also i have killed of 23 smaller plants to make more space for the others. This is always painfull but stupid if you don't do this. If the plants didn't stretch that far due heat and low placed lights, this would not have been the case. I would still have alot of small nice plants. This was more the case for the gorilla's but it had to be said here as well since the Cherry Cola's will profit from it as well. See you guys next week!

Great week comment or message for questions or just to chat

Welcome back!!! It’s the beginning of week four. I now consider this plant to have finished the seedling phase, now move onto the veg stage. THURSDAY - Day 22 10 October 24 - Switched the blue spec light out for the red spec light. - 380 PAR/ PPFD at 26 inches distance. - Topped the two bottom branches. - Started doing a little LST by adding a few staples and a little bit of branch manipulation. - She’s slowly shaping to my vision for this plant. - Gotta start thinking of up potting her soon into her final home. FRIDAY - Day 23 11 October 24 - Added two more LST staples. - Just a day under the lights. SATURDAY - Day 24 12 October 24 Watering day, 1 litre of dechlorinated tap water. - Base water 1 litre - 61.1 PPM Final - 1 litre at 6.45 PH at 62.8 PPM Runoff - N/A - Thinking of removing those giant fam leaves soon, they’re becoming cumbersome. - Did my final planned topping of the two top branches. - I tweaked a top branch and there was a pop at the knuckle, not a complete break but there’s a bit of damage. - I’m fairly confident that she’ll send resources to fix it and make it even stronger. - No stress, we push forwards and roll with the punches cause that’s what we do around here. SUNDAY - Day 25 13 October 24 - Just a day under the lights. - She doesn’t seem too bothered by yesterday’s branch tweaking. - There’s a but of a split but it seems to be scabbing over. - I’ll keep monitoring it over the next few days. MONDAY - Day 26 14 October 24 - Just a day under the lights. - Also a good recovery day. TUESDAY - Day 27 15 October 24 Transplant day into a 5 gallon pot and her final home. 60% Gaia Green Soil 20% Worm castings 20% Perlite 8 Tbsp Gaia Green All Purpose 4 Tbsp Gaia Green Power Bloom 5 Tbsp Diatomaceous Earth 1/2 Tbsp Dynomyco Amended this mix and transplanted. Watering day, 5 litres of dechlorinated tap water. - Base water 5 litres - 61.2 PPM - Add 2.5 ml Cal-Max - 172 PPM - Add 5 ml Supermax - 206 PPM - Add 15 ml Miicrobial Mass - 337 PPM Final - 5 litres at 6.61 PH at 337 PPM Runoff - N/A - Removed the LST staples to let her acclimate to her new home. - Will resume LST in a few days. - Removed the lowest fan leaves. - Some leaves are funky but they also are in the way of the important growth so they may get removed in the near future. WEDNESDAY - Day 28 16 October 24 - Just a day under the lights recovering from yesterday’s transplant and extended light hours. - She’s perked back up and looking happy though. - Probably resume with LST staples tomorrow. - The tweaked branch looks like it’s going to recover just fine, just a little weary about working it too soon. This is effectively the end of week four, it’s been quite eventful but we’re done with topping and transplanting so we’ll see how she gets on these next few weeks of pure unadulterated vegetation. Vamos!!

They all basically look the same at this point. Plant 4 popped a day later so it’s a little smaller. At day 12 I sprinkled some great white shark around each plant. And added just 1 tsp of green harvest bone meal.

Day 21 Shes becoming very bushy, yet not gaining any height whatsoever. Turned the auto-pots + air-domes on to get water and oxygen directly to the roots 3 days ago. Feeding Cropsalt at 5.8ph, really enjoying it atm just look at their colour😍

Day 43: Watered each plant with 1L with nuts 1589 ppm, 3380 us/cm, 3.3 EC (purple punch and wedding cheesecake) 1563 ppm 3325 us/cm 3.3 EC (strawberry banana) 1476 ppm 3180 us/cm 3.1 EC (gorilla cookies) I have 3 different feedings for the 10 plants They look healthy Day 45: Watered each plant with 1L with nuts 1563 ppm, 3325 us/cm, 3.3 EC (purple punch, strawberry banana, wedding Cheesecake) 1286 ppm, 2765 us/cm, 2.7 EC (gorilla cookies) 2 different feedings for the 10 plants Day 47: Watered each plant with 1L with nuts 1584 ppm, 3380 us/cm, 3.3 EC (purple punch, strawberry banana, wedding Cheesecake) 1481 ppm, 3180 us/cm, 3.1 EC (gorilla cookies) 2 different feedings for the 10 plants