🍬🍭🌈🍧🍨

She's ready to get flushed. I've put her in my second tent to leave her in total darkness for 2 days before I'll hang her to dry. This helps the plant to break down the chlorophyll.

They've been in flower for a week now. ⏰ No sign of sex yet. ♀️ Loving how they're brushing out. The health of the plants looks well. 😄

Terps sind abnormal

Lets goooo

Week 3! Things are moving so fast! I've had a busy week so did not get around to order nutrients. For all my worries, she seems to do just fine without them. I do not want to get over confident though. Gotta get on it! I was tempted to top her or start doing LST since she is growing so well, but decided against it because I want to let her grow naturally. This is my first grow, so best see what happens to a plant in spacebucket conditions without interference. Learn from that and experiment later on. Plus I feel that patience and restraint are key to completing a successful first grow. -On topping autos: I've read that autos should never be topped. This might have been true in the past. From what I've read new strains are more stable and can be topped without problems if the plant is growing well. (3-4 nodes by end of week 2) This allows her to recover before going into flowering. Despite her being only 10cm tall her leafs span nearly 27cm! Auto Tutankhamon is basically AK-47 (stativa) with ruderalis so I was expecting a rather tall plant. On day 16 she started showing her first pistils! 😍

It was easy to grow i defoliated before flower kicks in, tje yield is decent i get around 90 grams out of these seeds

SCROG WEEK. Reservoir Nutrients at 1/4 strength. Calcium Nitrate 30 grams Jack’s Hydro 20 grams Magnesium Sulphate 22 grams 400 PPM Moved them from veg tent to the bloom tent and flattened them out. They are recovering, still a bit of work to do for cleaning it up. It’s so much work moving them, when I get more space for another tent, I’ll just keep them in their respective tents throughout grow... for now, I work. Been playing around with video making in spare time, uploaded a scrog tutorial.

Week 3 of flower, Buds are building nicely

Finally switched to the flowering stage. It’s interesting how different they are.

11/16: I had to move a bunch of seedlings into the closet and decided to just go ahead and run the lights at 24/0 for these last several days. I've got the lights to within 8 inches on all of the flowering plants and as little as 6 inches on a couple of them😈. It's been cold out, so I've been able to keep my temps nice and low. I also have a 6500k floodlight on in there to "winterize" the environment a little more. 11/18: (bugles sounds) Introducing....The Frost Queen and Princess! I harvested the last two Orange Sherbets today...Wow, just wow!😍 11/20: Today I harvested the last two Wedding Cheesecakes and all three Gorilla Cookies. Kind pressed for time, so I just did a cursory trim before taking some photos and washing them. The Gorilla Cookies are every bit as dense as the Wedding Cheesecakes. The gigantic WC has a few seeds here and there, so if I don't spot any spent nanners on her, I'm gonna assume the pollination was done by the short/bent Strawberry Pie that I deliberately left a few male flowers I spotted on. That would make for some kind of special auto hybrid right there.. Well. that's a wrap on this crop. I'll do harvest reports on each strain as soon as they've cured a little bit, but I can tell you already that I'm gonna love most of them. Aromas are incredible!

Inizio fioritura

What's up guys? One of the girls are moving close to the end, so i think the next week Crticial+ will be Ripen. As for California Hash Plant i am used the previous week tea(with 2.6 of bloom) to add an extra week on flowering as well. Closer to harvest 😋

Harvested Girl Scout cookies auto from Fast Buds! Very satisfied with result: 200gr. dry buds!. Thank You Fast Buds for consistently such a strong genetics!

Week 12 Day 79 Guys we started this week flushing our ladies until lowered ppm to optimum ppm Cant tell you how long it gonna take you but it took me a long time to finish each plant since you have to literally add 3 times the quantity of water that your pot can get and it takes so much time but it's worth it! Day 80 They're looking good and smelling awesome, couldn't finish flushing one of the ladies yesterday but managed to finish today and they're all happy! Day 81 Overall they're good can't wait for them only few days to harvest Day 82 End of week 12 Looking pretty good

Red gorilla auto/left back-7 weeks Red gorilla auto/right back-6 weeks Purple punch og/ front-4 weeks

Es war sehr warm die letzten Tage und es gab auch das ein oder andere Mal trockenstress. Der VPD passt garnicht aber das wird sich wieder einpendeln.

07/17/2020 Just waiting... On flowering

Beginning of the 7th week. Watering every ~3 days. Switching with and without fertiliser. Gigi is gar in the flower Production Bella is a bit later, but starting to give a lot of Energy to her Flowers too. I try to keep humidity between 45 and 55%. Température oscillates between 20 and 26 degrees . Let’s keep going on the Track ! 🔥👌💪

It has been another amazing week of the plants growing. I have been watching as the Fruity Freak leaves become progressively more fern-like, and ornamental as a result! Based on my Banizzle grows, I knew I needed to understand plant nutrients in a more meaningful way if I wanted these plants to thrive. So, I decided to get a soil test (see Ref. 1 below on how to perform a test) to understand what nutrients my plants needed. The report I received advised that I needed to add 200 lbs/acre of nitrogen, 150 lbs/acre of phosphorus, and 190 lbs/acre of potassium (see picture labeled Pic.1 (FYI you can't see these images unless you login to growdiaries)). I then researched what to do with my results (Ref. 2 helped), and I figured out that my nutrient needs of 200-150-190 fall close to a 2-1-2 ratio. I then looked at different types of organic fertilizers (see Ref. 3 and Ref. 4) and considered that I already had a 3-10-5 fertilizer (Vermibloom) on hand. I discovered Dr Earth’s Alfalfa Meal is 2-1-2 and includes beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae (to promote healthy plant growth and disease resistance). However, I knew I would be low on nitrogen if I only used those two fertilizers. Therefore, I decided to buy some blood meal (12-0-0). I also liked that blood meal is more fast acting while the other two are more moderate. I hunted around for a solid fertilizer calculator and found an amazing tool from the University of Georgia Extension (Ref. 5). I entered all three fertilizers into the calculator, and it kicked out the exact amount of each fertilizer I needed to apply to 1 square foot (see Pic. 2). As I am using 10-gallon fabric pots (that can hold 1.5 cubic feet, but I put stone on the bottom and there’s space left at the top) I decided to use the one square foot application rate as I can always add more later, but I can’t take it away. Not only did I want to understand the nutrients I needed, but I also wanted to understand the structure of the soil (as it was not included in my test results). North Dakota State University has a nice page that discusses this (Ref. 6), and I performed a soil ribbon test (see Video 1) based on this information. I determined my soil to be medium textured (which is great), but I have seen occasional water pooling on the surface, suggesting that it may be more of a medium-fine. This means adding peat moss, coco coir, or other amendments might improve drainage (and plant hydration) and allow for roots to grow more easily. In the long run, I plan to use compost to enhance the soil structure and nutrients. I filled the bottom of my 10-gallon fabric pots with a ½” of pea stone to allow for drainage (Pic. 3). I then partially filled two 5-gallon buckets with topsoil from near where I will plant (but not in an area the roots will reach). I used a digital scale to measure the amount of fertilizers recommended by the calculator (Pic. 4, 5, and 6) and added it to one of the 5-gallon buckets (see Pic. 7). I mixed the fertilizers into the soil as evenly as possible (Pic. 8 and 9). I then poured a two-inch layer of non-fertilized soil, then peat moss, and then fertilized soil (in a roughly 2:1:1 ratio) and blended them together. I repeated this until the pot was full (getting additional soil as needed), and then I repeated the process for the other three pots. I set the filled fabric pots in my garage (Pic. 10) for two days to allow any upset bugs to flee into my garage instead of my house. I then moved the pots (wrapping them in a contractor garbage bag to prevent making a mess) into the room with the grow light. I placed a board on top of the fabric pots to insulate the plants (in their smaller pots) from the cold soil (Pic. 11). Once the soil in the fabric pots reaches room temperature, I will transplant. (Ref. 1) This video shows the method I used to take a soil sample. I didn’t have a field to test, so I took four samples from the area where I will eventually plant outdoors and blended them together. I then mailed my soil sample off to the lab, and about a week later, I received an email with a PDF of my results (included with my pictures this week). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9AwxmFxBwg&t=8s (Ref. 2) This video from the University of Minnesota Extension (many universities have agriculture extensions that can assist you with soil testing and growing information for your area) discusses what to do with your soil testing results: https://youtu.be/HYrkcfE62Pg (Ref. 3) This is a nice article that discusses organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.grow-it-organically.com/npk-fertilizer.html (Ref. 4) This article lists the NPK values of many organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.epicgardening.com/organic-fertilizers/ (Ref. 5) Many websites tout a fertilizer calculator…but this one is hands down the best I have found. If you scroll down to the bottom, you can enter any fertilizer type you want (and the cost, if you want). It will give you the exact blend of multiple fertilizers to solve your nutrient deficiencies (I included a snapshot of the solution I used in my pictures). https://aesl.ces.uga.edu/soil/fertcalc/ (Ref. 6) This is an excellent article that discusses how to evaluate your soil: https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/publications/evaluating-preparing-and-amending-lawn-and-garden-soil