Day 1: Popped. Temp: 75º RH: 82% + PPFD: 250 Day 2: Temp: 75º RH: 82% + PPFD: 250 Day 3: Roots showing through the bottom of the rapid rooter. Dusted roots with Tryfecta Myco Supreme (FoxFarms) and transplanted to 5 gallon pot w/ProMix HP. Temp: 75º RH: 78% + PPFD: 300 Day 4: 5-10ml ph 6.2 water feed. Temp: 75º RH: 75% + PPFD: 300 Day 5: Showing second set of leaves. Temp: 75º RH: 75% PPFD: 300 Day 6: Temp 75º RH: 75% PPFD: 300 Day 7: Temp 75º RH: 72% PPFD: 300 The Watermelon Zkittlez is doing well sowing small signs of wet feet or over watering. She got her second set of leaves started today. Will continue to mist spray a few times a day for the next week with no additional water added.

Started week off with a medium defoliation. started the girls on a PK booster. Additional details in video.

DIVINE OG KUSH / DIVINE SEEDS WEEK #23 OVERALL WEEK #10 FLOWER This was her last week she gave her all producing some dense frosty buds that have a slight purple hue to them. She smells of sweet goodness and gas!! Stay Growing!! Thank you for stopping by and taking a look it's much appreciated!!! THANK YOU DIVINE SEEDS!!! DIVINE OG KUSH / DIVINE SEEDS

Harvested a little early. But about 70% milky and some clear and dark. I have it drying now. About 50% humidity but it goes up and down. 181 grams from 3 plants in my 4X4 with a TSW2000. I didn't expect to get that much on my first try. This sour joker x sour ghost is the real deal. It's not hell's OG unreal but it's a nice smoke and gets me rocked.

Van algo ralentizadas, pero en que trasplantemos pegarán su estirón Ya veremos cómo se comportan estas semanas.

New week starts! ☀️25.10.2023 Spraiyng today only. ☀️27.10.2023 Norting today ☀️29.10.2023 I spraiyed a half of my garrden yesturday (they drinks different) with 'TA Tripart' in 80%of 'bloom' formula already. They keeps steretching and I want to do some extra LST for two days in the end of this week. ☀️31.10.2023 Crones of all my flowers grew back already. Their tops are cowered with many sweet budz. I like what I see. But I'm disturbing about a plant-to-lamp distance: it is too short. It's 30-31 c° already and I'm trying to keep low tempereture in my place. Also, now I'm using regular crane water instead of demineralised one. Week ends.

21.07.2024 2x 6ml Green Power 22.07.2024 2x 6ml Green Power 1x1l Wasser für die Vorderste 23.07.2024 2x6ml Green Power 1x 0,5 l jede Pflanze hat nur 0,5l erhalten.. ausser die vordere bekommt kein Wasser erst morgen wieder aber nur Eiswasser.. 1x1L Wasser mit Eis und 2x0,5L Wasser Seit dem 25.07.2024 nur noch Wasser

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Day 55 of flower. I think she will need another 2 weeks.. dont know if I should harvest already...I´m scared ... 😱😬 I removed all the leaves with crispy ends the smell is still amazingly sweet and there willl be a little bit of a yield I just hope she will survive. see ya next week my friends 👌

Flush is on! A gallon a day each of pH’ed tap water for the next week and a half to 2 weeks. Fall colors galore incoming! One is already going mad purple as I started it on the flush a bit earlier.

WC1 - 579g wet weight WC2 - 559g wet weight

Cream Mandarine XL-Auto #2 / FOOP Nutrients ======WEEKLY GOALS ======= 🌞Environment - 80F and 50%Humidity - using Humidfyer as needed. 💧 Feeding - Feeding with FOOP Canna Organic Nutrient Line 🍃Training / Keeping Stems Stable and Strait 🕷️ IPM - Will be using Green Cleaner" 1 OZ per Gallon, and CannControl from Mammoth alternating between product each month for Integrated Pest Management. 🔅 Vegetation & Flower Kingbrite 240W QB288 v3 LM301H 4000k+ 660nm Red x2 - Maintianing 575 PPFD ========Plant Update=========== 🌱 Plant - Week 6 started today, the plants are doing great very healthy, will need to do another IPM treatment in the mornting. =========================== ▶️Monday 03.29.21 / These girls are re well into flower, they are soundly in the 9/10 week glide path, they should start building up this week, may need to remove a few more leaves. ▶️Tuesday 03.30.21 / These look great every day, and have gotten too tall!! Feeding about 30 ounces per day. ▶️Wednesday 03.31.21/ Decided to cut the FOOP to 60%, feeding 30 ounces per day. ▶️Thursday 04.01.21 / Decided to cut the FOOP to 60%, feeding 30 ounces per day. ▶️Friday 04.02.21 / Decided to cut the FOOP to 60%, feeding 30 ounces per day. ▶️Saturday 04.03.21 / Decided to cut the FOOP to 60%, feeding 30 ounces per day. ▶️Sunday 04.04.21 / Decided to cut the FOOP to 60%, feeding 30 ounces per day.

Fairly easiest plant that Ive ever grew! Very resist and Phenotype was on point. Only veg’d them for 25 days and managed to fill the entire 2x2 (60x60cm) Scrog net. Flowering time was a bit longer than 49 days, but still doable. ## From seed to harvest it took 90 days ## ## Three plants yielded me about ~150g of dry product ##

12cm vertical growth but look how bushy she is! Not quite entered flowering yet, but that's good... More veg time = bigger plant 😍

So this is the start of the fourth week with me. I find this very engulfing. I like spending an hour with them a day and move the little ones out of the bigger fan leaves shadow by tucking the larger ones away giving the little ones a chance to get more light and flourish. I’m noticing more the strain my one girl went through compared to the others, her leaves being smaller than the other girls. I’ve tried to give them the best environment I can and realize I still play a huge role in their life. This is my first grow and I love it. I hope they grow up well and flourish. They were fed last week and had a bit of nutrient burn so this week I gave them just water. I’m not sure how much longer I should veg but I hear in the scrog game the longer you veg the better. Hoping for the best for everyone on GrowDiaries and their grows!

Hi all! I already began to think that the red Gorilla will not turn red as the manufacturer promises .. but I could not imagine that in a few days she would pretend to be like that and turn red .. after I washed the pot and left her to dry, she began to pick up color)) and here you are you can see what a huge difference in color compared to last week .. Harvest soon !!! the smell is just amazing!

Cherry cola are done growing up and are fattening up nicely and producing a nice frosting of trichomes .

Hi guys So 8/10 on germination so far but the other 2 are on there way lol. So day 1 from pop now the count down starts to 100 haha. I will be repotting into there 3 gal fabric pots on Tuesday/Wednesday using biobizz lightmix and putting them in a 4x4 tent under a marshydro tsl2000 and a bloomplus bp2500 set to 50 intensity as they are autos. I will be feeding them biobizz root juice at 4ml to a litre aiming for a nice looking canopy this run So been a busy week, only managed to up pot last night, so here they are on day 6 in the 4x4