The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Our Watermelon Candy Automatic #1 from Zamnesia Seeds is ready, and we're excited to show it to you. This plant has always performed well, a true powerhouse of nature as it grows, especially as it swells with high-quality central and lateral flowers. Ripeness - The resin content is excellent. The trichomes are mostly white and milky (about 60%), with some clear (20%), and some amber (20%). Some beautiful red-headed trichomes are quite common. The pistils are almost all red (about 80%). Remember, the plant should be harvested according to your taste. Since this is a 50/50 plant, I want to maintain the sativa/day-use characteristics and not turn it into an indica bomb by over-ripening the amber colors. (Amber is a sign of THC oxidation.) The overall shape of the plant is truly splendid. Techniques chosen: As mentioned, we only performed pruning, lollipopping, and defoliation here. Basically, we simply cleaned the bottom parts, which, as mentioned, helps us achieve better results at the top. We're 100% organic and 1000% Plagron, as always. The soil we chose is the recently launched Plagron Bio LightMix, which will allow us to start with smoother and more reliable watering, without the sudden changes that liquid fertilizers can cause. A week's worth of soil is enough, so don't overdo it. Choose your preferred style and calculate your results on the website: www.plagron.com Visit the new Growshop area on the Zamnesia website: Z - https://www.zamnesia.io/it/531-growshop A fantastic strain, not too tall but very bushy! Give it a try! Z - https://www.zamnesia.io/en/7484-zamnesia-watermelon-candy-automatic-semi-seeds.html Z - This feminized strain boasts everything you've come to know and love about the original cultivar, but with some welcome improvements. Combining Watermelon x Candy Kush with a pinch of ruderalis genetics results in a strain you won't want to miss, we promise. Being an autoflowering strain, the growing options are virtually endless. So, whether you choose to grow her indoors or outdoors, one thing is certain: she'll be extremely easy to grow. Otherwise, she'll take care of herself without requiring any special care. With a little general care and pruning, you can control her growth all the way to harvest. She's perfect for beginners growing indoors, as well as more experienced growers looking for easy-to-grow, high-yielding plants. Although she's not a particularly tall plant, her size can be easily controlled with LST, to which she responds positively. So, if you're interested in experimenting with this technique, don't be afraid to try Watermelon Candy Auto. In just 9-10 weeks from seed to harvest, this strain grows rapidly and, just like the original, will display a bushy canopy completely covered in large buds. Regardless of your growing environment, you can expect impressive yields. Indoor plants produce 350-400 g/m², while plants left to flower outdoors produce 50-100 g/plant. These are quite substantial yields for an autoflowering strain. With a THC level of 20%, Watermelon Candy Auto is a 50/50 sativa/indica hybrid, offering users the best of both worlds. After a few tokes, you'll feel more optimistic, and even the most stoic smokers won't be able to suppress a smile. After a few minutes, a deep sense of relaxation will take over, perfect for welcoming you home after a long day. Overall, Watermelon Candy Auto builds on the qualities that made the original so popular, but it also has other qualities that make it a much simpler and more practical option. You know it, but I recommend it. You'll find so much beauty here, essentially "the best nature has to offer." Z - www.zamnesia.com Music // www.radionula.com + Feng Shui Music + Frequency 432Hz
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Growing this popsicle cake definitely had its ups and downs. What started out looking like a dud of a seed turned out to be something pretty spectacular. Stacks the buds nicely to fill up the whole colas, super frosty, with an un godly stench of sweaty dirty socks. Still in the curing process but definitely has a heavy indica punch!
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Привет садоводы началась пятая неделя растение чувствует себя нормально и стало немного больше и имеет красивые формы но оно не очень крупное выросло , не монстр ! запах имеет как по паспорту - сладкий виноград Последние 2-3 недели я будк поливать ее простой водой Хочу поблагодарить создателей SSSC , за такое чудесное растение ! И всех кто следит за моим садом !
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Bad week for my baby she lacked food so she was droopy did not realize she needed food as she was dark green and I was skipping a week of feeding because of it. (Looked like she had nitrogen toxicity ) thought she was being overwatered so I let her dry out . Once that dif not work to pick her back up. I thought what I did differently with her ? Oh yah skipped a feeding lol. So I fed her right away with tnt growth formula it's locally made and within 2 hours she looked better unroll 2 days later when she looked normal again. Last day of veg. Next week will be flowering
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(9th feb) So these girls are now entering week 5 and with small space comes challenges as these girls have really started too lift off growth wise as you can see 2 of the girls icc are tall and the remaining shorter girls are toronjaz all happy and healthy... still no defoliation I have chosen not too took these girls only a topping and leaf tuck here & there and wow they are loving life under aptus nutrients 🌱 They are thriving into this week where I will be tucking a few more leaves before flip in roughly a week or so time 🙏 Finally grow diaries has let me update with images and videos and I'll be updating my fastbuds diary tomorow too These girls are sailing through each week and I'm really happy using aptus nutrients I have topped 1/2 and all have responded great under aptus nutrients which I'm really loving using atm. These girls will have another 2 weeks untill flip too 12 hours light but these aptus fed girls I expect too boom in flower 😍😅 We shall deal with that issue when it arrives 🤣 Happy growing! 💚
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.
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Venga familia que ya viene la cosecha de estas Pink Runtz de RoyalQueenSeeds , que ganas que tenia ya de darles machetazo. No veas que pinta que tienen estas plantas. Las flores aparte se ven bien resinosas, y con unos tonos muy llamativos. a sido una genética con la que disfruté mucho cultivarla, es algo complicada cultivarla pero merece la pena si eres cultivador con experiencia no te será problema cosechar. Hasta aquí es todo , espero que lo disfrutéis, buenos humos 💨💨.
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Finishing soon! Drinking tons of water at the moment!
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Difficoltà a calibrare il quantitativo d'acqua...piante sofferenti
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@Miketama
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One of 4 strains grown together in 0.36m² using Migro Array 2 (125W). Variable dimming: W1 60%/24h, W2-10-11-12 60%/20h, W3-5-8-9-13 80%/20h, W6-7 100%/20h. Average real consumption: 95W with 173.6 kWh total. STRAIN: Divine Seeds genetics - underrated breeders producing excellent quality! NUTRIENTS: Full Biotabs bacterial line - positively surprised by the results! Organic living soil approach. GROWING APPROACH: Focused on DLI (calculated from Migro’s PAR map), VPD, water temperature, and water resting time. Did NOT monitor pH, EC, CO₂, or use PAR meter. MY BEST HARVEST SO FAR! 🏆 COLLECTIVE METRICS (4 plants total): • Total dry weight: 210g (+ 10g bubble hash) • Total wet weight: 890g • g/watt: 2.21 (or 2.31 with hash) • g/m²: 583 (or 611 with hash) • Average per plant: 52.5g Individual weights: Fractal 55g, Northern Lights 54g, Black Opium 67g (best performer!), Moon Rock 34g. Dense and resinous buds. Additionally grew 3 outdoor plants (Fractal #2: 21g + 60g frozen, Northern Lights #2: 14g + frozen, Black Opium #2: 50g fresh frozen) - not included. ~300g frozen trim (indoor+outdoor) yielded ~10g bubble hash. Good luck to everyone in the contest! 🍀
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@MarryJuan
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Time to buy new lights using old fish tank lights, out with old in with new Xs2000 x2
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@Ashbash
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I think that this is as good as they're gonna get. Gonna pull them both down and start a fresh one trying to keep it cooler cos mid 30s everyday is not good. Learned a lot this time, hopefully much better next time! Also took the top off the stardawg last weekend, should almost be smokable now!!
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@Joedirt
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THe little i smoked was great for pain. Got crazy munchies afterwards. Thumbs up!
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@Potgoblin
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So this is going to be the last week of veg for my ladies and I think ill be flipping by Wednesday "ish". A fair bit has happened in the last week, I managed to split the main stem.of the dark phoneix the other day being a bit too rough with her, thankfully the split went straight down the middle.and didn't even make her droop or wilt at all, 2 cable ties and some.string and she's right as rain again lol. Really want that break to heal before flipping her so I can get those cable ties off the main stem before the stretch! Last thing I want is her growing into them and making it impossible to remove. I managed to over water the smaller girls as well so im not paying too much attention to those ladies now, whatever they produce they produce my investment is my big girl. I Will say that john innes stuff is SUPER heavy and im.really struggling with drainage so back to bio bizz light mix after this that added perlite makes a big difference! I have also made a mini aeroponic cloner today which fits inside my propagator, who new an old plastic cracker tub, some soil plugs and a few airstones could make something so useful 🤣 This dark phoenix is such a tough plant I don't want to lose her genetics so im goin to try my best to root these cuttings before flipping her to flower next week. All being well by the time these plants are finished I will have at least 4 nice big healthy girls ready to send straight into flower as soon as this stuff is down and dried 🤞 Think that's all for this week see you all when she starts her flowering cycle 👍 Happy smoking people
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@TightNugs
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2 BlackBerry well into flower now,1green pheno,1 purp.Around 14 days since first pistils so packing on the weight.Green pheno the stronger plant but lovely colours on the purp 👊🤞🍁
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Week 7, we are in full flower and I show you the feeding today, very simple and not much to it. The plant drinks this 25 liter tank empty like nothing, that's a good sign, she takes in the nutrients and grows rapidly. Still cleaning some leaves and branches here and there, will update when we made some more progress, so far everything is going well.
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A good starter week. Both little ladies are doing well. They're both stretching just a bit. I've increased the light intensity so all should be good.
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Checkout my Instagram @smallbudz to see the Small budget grow setup for indoor use, low watt, low heat, low noise, step by step. 08/11/2019 - Showing early flower development? 09/11/2019 - Gave her 0.500 ml plain water PH 6.5, she's starting to need more water and also due to 30c temps. She's also showing light green around the leafs maybe slight magnesium deficiency. 10/11/2019 - Yellow leafs showing up really fast so I 'flushed' the medium with 1l of 6.4 PH plain water, watered until some run off start to showing, change the watering plan again, now I only water when the pot feels light and dry at the bottom. 13/11/2019 - Pot was really light and dry at the bottom so I gave her 1.5l of water with 0,75ml of Grow, 1,5ml of Bloom and 0.75ml of Max BioBizz PH 6.5 until some runoff started to appear I think was too much again : also added a work-supplement led strip light. 14/11/2019 - Leaves looking pale raise the light to 45cm instead of the recommended by manufacture 25-40cm.