Langsam entwickeln sich die Blüten.

(Log date week 7, day 49) So this week was a mixed bag, Tuesday started off with me finding a spider web on one of the lower fan leaves on my Hulkberry plant and noticed some bite marks on some of Fat Banana. In my haste to give rid of the spider mites, i caused some minor wind damage to some of the fan leaves on Hulkberry which caused some copper spotting and a stunted Fat banana cola. After i correctly treated both plants for spider mites and wind damage, they both bounced back and started to recover quite nicely. I also noticed a difference between topping these plants at different times; i topped fat banana when it had 4 cola's but i waited until hulkberry's roots reached to the bottom of my 5gal bucket and she had 8 cola's. A BIG difference in their recovery and overall structure, where fat banana jump out the gate with explosive veg growth and hulkberry struggled for two weeks just to develop it's first set of fan leaves. To now whereas hulkberry is much bigger, greener and bushier than fat banana. Hulkberry has responded much better to the additional stress whereas fat banana has struggled or stalled due to the stressful conditions. All in all wasn't too bad of a week, except for the power going out for a couple of hours on Saturday which raised my grow-room temperature to 90f, i was able to put out a couple of fires this week without any adverse long term effects. I also topped hulkberry on the last day of the week and I'm going to continue to feed them Technfloa at the full recommended strength since they have both responded very well to last week's formula. as always my pic are in chronological order Mr. O.G.T

Day 65, 14th of November 2020: Amazing week.... RQS Wedding Gelato does not strech a lot and pistils coming out nicely.... Original Sensible Seeds has amazing gentics they are so strechy except Black Ghost OG, rest of them crazyyyyyyy..... I also broke two of the sides from Gelato Original Sensible Seeds but fixed with tape and now all good lol 🤣🤣🤣 Pre flowers out and I really hope they stop growing lol. I also noticed that the Original Sensible Seeds strains have nice purple colours of the fan leave's stem. All the same fertilization happens every 2nd day with the mix above and ratio. One more thing: I set the lamp 15 minutes shorter to switch off earlier so they receive 11:45 of darkness. I would like to imitate the nature when longer nights come with time till the 4th week (when they will receive 13 hours darkness a day 15 minutes minus 4 times = 1hour) so every week 15 min longer darkness for 4 weeks and then back to 12/12 to have bigger buds from the 4th week....

OMG the smells are becoming so intense, from lemon to the sweet caramel mix with chilies and a touch of pine trees, i think i cant put in words what im smelling and were is taking my mind, but i can tel this, what an amazing combination of fragrances that are flying around The tricomes are shouting up as they become fatter and frostier, all cristal clear so far, i think i still have 3 mb 4 more weeks to harvest, lets see 😜 Just calculate my VPD and it’s 0.98 kPa need to increase this up to 1.2 for now s i’m moving my ligth up a bit and see if it works 🙏🤓🙏 Thank you all for following, comment, like and all 🙏 100 likes 😅🙏 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌 ❤️❤️❤️❤️ Loving this LED Tec 😍 Girls: 1-BlueBerry 2-Alaskan Purple 3-Poyote Gorilla 4-Hindu Kush 5-Whitw Mango 6-Super Glue 7-Badazz Cookies 8-S.A.D. tent -8x8 / 2.4x2.4 but i'm only using 1/2 so 4x4 / 1.2x1.2 Led - Lumatek 465w Compact Pro at 100% All i Grow is medicine for myself, Stay safe, stay tuned and B Happy Peace out D

Lemon ak

okay guys this is insane.....232 grams wet... with a final dry weight of 17 grams..... im devastated.... although they are dense buds with such wonderful colour and smell, the yield and time was not worth it.... i gave it same treatment as the other ladies in the tent and they all BY FAR exceeded this. STRAWBERRY NUGGETS has a great berry flavour and honestly you can taste it a bit when you exhale and keep in mind this is not cured fully yet. every day it smells better and better. i am super disappointed with the yield, i was really excited for this considering it was my first prize ever! i do love the smoke but i will for sure never grow this again i was super disappointed...... there was 32 grams of HUGE stems lol after trimming i had 73.6 grams wet. total dry was 17 grams...... not even an ounce folks..... i will be making bubble hash, rosin and edibles with this! STAY TUNED!!!!!!! LOVE YOU ALL THANK YOU FOR LOOKING

Getting there... cant wait for Spring Walls are up and painted, floor is laid, electrical all done, exhaust outlets mounted. Ive started to install the trim - I decided to put a grey stain instead of boring paint on the floor trim boards. Looks really solid against the dark bamboo floors. I used two gallons and two coats of flat pure white paint for walls and ceiling. Should give me a reflectivity somewhere around 80%. Some may ask why not opt for mylar? I just dont like the look. I dont care too much for reflectivity, as I will be well above the required watts/sqft with the light setup I will be using. I mounted an electrical receptacle in the ceiling, I thought it may come in handy for cord management. Im going to mount the 3 x meanwell drivers outside of the grow room and run some extra long cables to them. This is to keep heat out of the room, any little bit helps. Will be running a 8inch fan with about 750 CFM in order to properly vent the room. Intake will be a door vent and the negative pressure the fan provides. Odor is not too much of a concern, but may as well add a carbon filter. Tables to be built this week after trim is installed Week 1 Spend - $2080 Week 2 Spend - $350 (mostly on hardware store visits) Total so far - $2430

Once the drying process is done I'll be coming back to update the smoke report. Her terps are off the charts and she looks very resinous to the naked eye. UPDATE 02/02/24 The dry and curing process left with some of the most amazing nugs I ever seen and the most is like none other. A pungent smell of lime, diesel, piney and sweet. Pulled 13G worth of kief which wow I'm impressed by all means.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Hi Guys, Grow Diaries for whatever reason won't allow me to upload my complete harvest video which is a real bummer because I mainly do the videos for my YouTube channel but decided to also include them on grow diaries to give other growers who might be considering growing the same strain in the future. Helps give people an idea of what to expect when they grow it. But honestly I can't be bothered to re-edit it to fit to Grow Diaries setting which I don't even know what they are.... Didn't think they had any! Maybe it's the length of my video..... 🤔! I don't know, but I like to give growers a good description of the strain and smoke review. I hate it when I go to others peoples pages to have a look at a strain I'm thinking of growing and them not having hardly any pictures that properly show you the growth stages of the plants.... Really annoying. Which is why I chose to properly document mine to give you guys or try to give you guys the best view of my grows..... If that makes any sense 😅 https://youtu.be/iYNiI75Vvkg That's the link for my channel guys, the complete King's Juice harvest review is there. Really sorry I couldn't provide a better aspect to the Harvest guys, but at least I know for next time and I will be prepared. 👍🏾

Amazing smell sticky crystal I started giving Big Buds and hopefully in a few days they will be greasy and big 🔥🔥🔥

White widow is doing great compared to her start. She has bounced back well. She will be huge by the time I get her to her finish. Things are looking good now. Thank you Seedsman, Medic Grow, and Athena.🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 ❄️🌱🍻 https://www.seedsman.com/?a_aid=Mrsour420. This is my affiliate link to seedsman. Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.

Experiencing what seems to be my first nutrient lock out. Bought a soil ph tester from homdepo its reading 7.0 so that what bring me to that conclusion on top of the slower growing and the slight yellowing around the leaves. I was being cheap and using the liquid ph tester that comes with the ph up and down and im regretting now seeing my plants in not the best condition. Im ordering a better ph pen today i used the vivosun one the i currently have got the water to 5.8 checked the run off and its at 6.2 hopefully that helps. Saturday im going to top dress and water at 5.8 aging and im thinking that should put me back on track Any advice i could definitely use some tips and pointers or advice

04.08.2024 high heat weave this week, we hit 38°c with 80% humity almost all day. But what a massive stretc almost tripple in size. FastBerry still show leaf and node mutation but grow really well. By the end of the day i find a masive egg invassion on one leaf of the fast berry, no idea whit it is, and dont really want to wait to see what have decide to turn my lady in a breading chamber. the leaf have been removed and throw away in the fire bin. The camber berry have been treat with my neighbor garden insecticide in prevention of further attack.

She is doing great! :)

Harvested on day 70 (a bit early I know). 19.8 grams of dry buds. Small harvest but potent and very loud. I grew both this and the critical dwarf and both were super low yielding, although if I harvested a week or so later I would probably have gotten a 25% increase in yield weight. Regardless, I'm happy as I smoked one bowl after an 8 day dry and it got me pretty good.

Started flushing at the end of week 9, fortunately the weather is cool down a little bit😅 I planned to harvest her within a week or two

The last two days of flowering. I am really glad with the grow so far. Haven't watered them for 5-6 days before chopping them

Here our Zookies, as I anticipated, have started off great and are starting to give their best In this diary you will find the plant that we will let grow straight, applying only a few techniques that do not involve cuts to preserve its speed characteristics. After taking the first fertilizers the plant is really doing very very well at a great pace and we expect great things the internodes are growing very well and we are practically almost in pre-flowering. The other one you will find in the next diary worked with Topping / Main Lining / Main Folding Comparison is the salt of experience. We have started the Plagron fertilization program, we are in 100% organic configuration, the soil is recycled Promix + 1/3 fresh soil + 10% Perlite + RQS Mycorrhiza Mix (4gr in the mix, 1 gr under the small fiber pot). We are administering // 1 ml/l of Power Roots - 1 ml/l of Pure Zym - 1 ml/l of Sugar Royal - 3 ml/l of Alga Grow I have doubts about the compatibility of Pure Zym with mycorrhizae. If in doubt, ask the experts, do not mix too much at random. https://plagron.com/en The doubts about the compatibility Pure Zym / Mycorrhizae have been dispelled, they can go well together according to Plagron experts. If someone tells you that enzymes eat mycorrhizae, which in principle may seem possible, explain to them that it is not true. https://www.royalqueenseeds.it/growing/452-easy-roots-mix-di-micorrhize.html Try this variety, it is a top strain of the last few years very high level of thc ---- https://www.zamnesia.io/it/11174-zamnesia-seeds-zookies-auto.html Brief description of Zamnesia // The result of the cross between Animal Cookies, GG#4 and ruderalis, this compact variety produces top quality buds, maintaining all the charm of a modern US hybrid. Thanks to the hard work of the Zamnesia genetics team, Zookies Automatic is easy to grow, fast flowering and exceptionally vigorous. Regardless of whether you grow indoors, outdoors or in a greenhouse, if you are looking for a stable autoflowering strain that is quick to harvest, Zookies Automatic is definitely the one for you. Like all Zamnesia autoflowers, Zookies Auto promises rapid harvests of top-quality bud with minimal effort. And she delivers on that promise. After germination, Zookies Automatic plants grow vigorously for around 3–4 weeks. At the end of the pre-flowering phase, plants typically reach a height of between 90–110cm, depending on the size of the pot. You can find the whole world of growing on Zamnesia and more, just check out the site and you will find "all the best that nature has to offer" in various shapes and colours. The new strains are fantastic and the old ones are no exception... p.s. no hermaphrodites so far, can you growers say the same? ---- // www.zamnesia.com