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This week the plant gets swapped to bloom nutes but no until the end of the week so the next week will reflect that set of nutrients. Sunday Res testing at 320ppm, 5.8 PH. Growth is looking great, with more tops forming near top node as plant is forced down. All new growth is deep green. The lower leaves are still spotted but have not progress nearly as much as they have been recently. Adjusted PH to 6.0 to help with calcium uptake. Monday Res ppm 320, 6.1 PH. Plants new growth is healthy. LST'd top node so newer lower nodes can catch up for a day or two. Plant is starting to smell. Will let it the plant correct itself, then perform res change by the end of the week, to swap to bloom. Tuesday Res: 320ppm 6.1 PH. Lower nodes have filled in more, top node has mostly corrected itself. Calcium deficiency has slowed greatly but still present want to give another day or two of recovery from lst then will do the res change. Removed lowest leaves. Wednesday Res: 320ppm 6.1 PH Plant growth is excellent. Largest leaf is slowly showing more calcium deficiency. Flushed and swapped to bloom, orca, silica, cal-mag. 450 ppm 6.2. moved leaves around and rearranged so lower nodes get more light. Thursday Res: 420 6.3 adjusted to 6.2. Plant and root growth are looking great. Friday Res: 420ppm 6.18 ph, adjusted to 6.25. Plant and roots are blowing up with some stretching beginning. Smell is intensifying but still no pistils, yet. Saturday Res: 470ppm 6.3 ph. She's filling out really well. Daily photos show just how quick everything happens.
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Entering final week of major stretch, these plants have been a pleasure to grow so far, and my overall setup has been performing pretty flawlessly. Excited for the weeks to come, tho another longer trip away from the plants looms in the future (🎅🏻). Hopefully i can dial in a temporary auto watering system for then. Just did a light defoliation so i can leave them unmolested for the week - mainly took off leaves brushing against the forming pistils. These plants grow like weeds no doubt, branches out of branches out of branches. Temps and runoff a little high but overall a smooth start to the flowering stage i would say.
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9/18: New week...fed with Boomerang and Kangaroots 9/19: Applied Axiom harpin proteins and boomboom spray 9/20: Fed full strength TPS One...decent growth on both, but the small one seems more than just a couple of days behind. 9/21: Tucked a few leaves and took some photos and a video. Looking good. Just a couple more days of 24/0... 9/22: Switched out the 560w of 5000k CCT lighting for 720w of 3000k CCT lighting and set the timer for 12/12. Decided against 13/11 with emerson effect...trying to save a few bucks on electricity. I'm keeping the lights at 30" from the tops for a day or two. 9/23: The girls loved their first night of sleep...so perky!
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Прошла ещё неделя, деуочка уже очень покрылась трихомами листва на шишках, жаль камера не как не позволяет захватить, но она очень сахарная уже, глаз радует каждый взгляд, борюсь с дефецитом фосфора и калия, запустил не специально, пошла на улучшение но всё равно ещё ей тяжело, надеюсь сильно не скажется на выход, шишки набирают силу и мощь каждую ночь, на утро всегда удивляюсь при открытий бокса)
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@dank604
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Girls are trucking along without much issue. I did have a bit of PH flux due to my PH meter calibration being off but no biggie, she didn't show too much signs of stress. These girls are starting to stink which I'm happy about, hoping for a really cheesy harvest :D
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@JoExotic
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Week 6 started adding kangaroots I’ve only been watering about .5 gallon twice a week they seem to be doing really well can’t wait to see what they look like next week good luck everyone !
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@Luv2Grow
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Day 64 - Beginning week 10 and everything has been going smoothly with this girl so far. Not much going on and didn’t have really anything to do with her today. She’s still good on water for a few more day so just letting her do her thing for now. Day 66 - Still not much happening with her other than fattening up still. She’ll be ready for some water tomorrow or the day after. The trichs are starting to get milky but quite a bit are still clear so still a bit of time left with her. Day 67 - Still not much going on or that I need to do with her. Thought she was ready for water but gonna give her one more day to dry out. Will probably start checking her trichs a little more often now. Day 68 - Well did a check of trichs today and she’s actually got quite a bit of amber in there, a few clear left but mostly cloudy and amber. There’s still a lot of white pistils but I go by the trichs so it’s looking like she’s got two weeks or less left. She was dried up so gave her 2 gallons of water with Sugardaddy and calimagic to try and beef her up the last week or two. I’ll be keeping a close eye on her from here on out. Day 69 - No issues to speak of as of right now and she’s gonna get straight water from now until she’s finished up. Lots of cloudy trichs and caught a couple ambers here and there. Think she’s got no more than two weeks left and she’ll get the chop.
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I am glad the 3rd time the charm with this one. Seeds are on the smallish side, I suggest the breeders start the reversal process 2 weeks prior to treatment, allowing more time for everything to form this will allow for bigger seeds in the end and should resolve this tiny seed problem. As you can see with this 3rd time the charm, it is really growing well. Due to a miscalculation I do not have any room for it as yet so it will have to stay small and bushy in the seedling station until i can make some room somewhere. I will use some tricks to make it grow small and compact. Here is one of my biggest old school hacks my great uncle showed me when I was very small. I always place all of my seed into a magnetic field for a few seconds, this aligns the ferrite molecules in the seeds unlocking their genetic potential. Numerous authors have established the positive influence of the stationary magnetic field on the plant seeds. The treatment fastens plants development, improves germination and seedling growth, and activates protein formation and enzymes activity. I also like to use corse sandpaper rolled into a tube and then shake my seeds in this tube, which scrapes the outside of the hard seed shells allowing for easier water ingress. I then place the seeds to soak in the seaweed water at about 25c for 12 to 24 hours. Once The seeds have cracked open I gently place them into a seedling soil mix in a 6" pot and then placed into the warm, moist arms of the seedling station. Which will protect and nurture them until it it time to go into their final pots. I find that this method ensures germination and quick, vigorous growth. It is a particularly good method to use on very old seeds and/or seeds that were not stored correctly. Also I no longer disinfect my seeds because new studies have shown the plants actually place bacteria on the outside of the shell of the seed and inside the seed to ensure the plant has all it needs to thrive
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Prima settimana di fioritura . tutto ok .ma con qualche altra iniziano a spuntare sorprese inaspettate....beh questa è la natura 🤷😂💪👍🙏
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Eccoci qui... Tutto va per il meglio, questa settimana ho eseguito Lollipopping e Defoliation per far si che le cime principali sprigionino al meglio il loro vigore. Siamo verso la fine del progetto ora bisogna solo aspettare la fine... Grazie a tutti per il supporto🔥🌲❤️
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@Chubbs
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Weekly update on these wonderful girls. They've progressed beautifully, especially considering the day time temps have been in the mid 90's. Not seeing any signs of deficiencies and spraying once a week of either Athena's IPM and stack or PureCrop1 for pest management. So far since being transplanted they've only been fed well water. I'll probably start some Grow A & B nutes and calmag this week. All in all Happy Growing.
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@TightNugs
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2 BlackBerry well into flower now,1green pheno,1 purp.Around 14 days since first pistils so packing on the weight.Green pheno the stronger plant but lovely colours on the purp 👊🤞🍁
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hey guys here with the new release from fastbuds thanks to those guys for the testers . Will be starting as usual in coco ecothrive to be precise pictured above with a pinch of mykos mixed in. To germinate I always make a hole with my little finger to the first knuckle drop the seed in and cover , water very slowly around the edge of the pot until you get runoff like the video shown . Then i put them on a plastic or paper plate onto the heatmat (not directly on it as it dries the media too quick) in a dark place and the longest iv had to wait is 4 days after that as soon as they break the coco I put them under a small 12w led/cfl light (pictured above) 6500k at around 15 cm as this helps build a good root sytem ready for transplant will be on no nutes this week will start on plant start and katana roots next week at this point i have no fan running just the light will add a fan to sturdy her next week. will only get one maybe 2 very small waterings this week depending on how quick the media dries thanks for reading happy growing guys
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@MistaOC
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17.04. Day 36 Grow Diary Entry – Day 36 (Flower Day 16) Strain: Sour Frootz by Karma Genetics Plants: 4 clones Training: HST + SCROG Today is Flowering Day 16, and the Sour Frootz ladies are officially deep into the early-to-mid bloom stage. Bud sites are now well-defined, and the pistils are stacking up nicely. The stretch phase has slowed down slightly, giving a good window for structural management. To keep the canopy even and under control, I applied high-stress training (HST) by bending and tucking the taller tops through the SCROG net. I also reduced overall plant height by about 25 cm, evening out the top layer across all four plants. This should help maximize light penetration and bud development across the entire canopy. The plants handled the stress well—no signs of wilting or shock so far. With this structure locked in, the SCROG net is now fully supporting the horizontal spread, allowing more light to reach secondary bud sites. The aroma is intensifying slightly, a sweet, fruity tang starting to build up when brushing against the leaves. Everything is on track. From here on, the focus shifts to flower bulking, maintaining stable environmental conditions, and avoiding excess humidity as the flowers start to pack on mass. ******************************************* 6L RO Water // ph 6,4 // 0,6ml Aptus Regulator // 12ml BioBizz CalMag // 6g Greenhouse Feeding BioEnhancer // BioBizz ph- *******************************************
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@No_Clout
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Everything’s looking great with these two really happy with these perfect height for me, I’m defiantly going to be doing a lot of Mephisto strains in the near future. ✌️🏻 Still looking good, starting to frost up now also added an 4” air intake and hung it up to blow air across the canopy.
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@mikemobes
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9/8 -Checked the trichomes on Cream Cookies to my surprise she's almost ready! She was at 5% Clear, 90% Cloudy, 5% Amber. Started flushing this week. Already beginning to see leaves yellow which is exactly what I'm looking for. -Buds are really filling out and the plant is absolutely resin packed. Comparable to a photoperiod. Very happy with these genetics -Hoping to yield tripple digits! 9/14 -Cream Cookies Harvested today and began to hang dry! Haven't got any weights yet as I think wet weight is irrelevant. Will update final numbers in around 1 week when flowers are dried properly and begin curing! Very Amazing smell. Notes of pineapple, citrus, and a sweet smell. Very pleasant smell. Extremely potent as well.
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Jour42 defolliation and LST Jour45 defolliation Jour47 arrosage avec de l'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 1ml par litre d'eau de topmax biobizz La plante entre maintenant en floraison c'est donc le début du stretch Explication en anglais (Stretch explanations more) EXPOSURE TO LIGHT One of the main culprits in abnormal stretching of cannabis plants is the lack of light. Plants that are too far from an adequate light source will respond by accelerating stem growth in order to get closer to the lamp themselves. Especially when there are many other plants. A lack of lighting can easily cause overcrowding in a growing chamber, reducing the steady progression of your crop and the distance ratio between your bulbs and your plants. To address this problem, be sure to provide enough light to your plants to prevent stem growth. At the same time, you should not position your lights too close to your plants either since this would also result in an over-stretching of the stems and in some cases, the loss of your crop. In addition to the distance between the light source and the plant, the type of light you will use also affects the size of the stretching of your crop. The orange and red lights encourage stretching and result in thinner, larger stems. And conversely, blue light stimulates a growth of thicker stems and a smaller size. When a species is ready to enter the vegetative phase and undergo its most drastic stretching period, metal halide lamps can be used to deter far too long stems. THE HEAT Heat is another essential element that can determine the stretch size of your plants during vegetation. Temperatures above 27 degrees push the stems to lengthen more and more and will propel the potential of sativas to push as high as possible. Heat lamps that are positioned too close to plants create an intolerable environment that will grow large, soft plants that will potentially wobble until they fall and lose flowers in its fall. OTHER CAUSES OF STRETCHING There are multiple variables that can lead to the stretching of plants beyond what could normally be expected of the plant. Environmental stressors resulting from transplantation (when a plant passes from one pot to another) can cause the plant to return to shock. This will eventually trigger a reaction causing a stretch. Cannabis plants that are not grown in decent conditions or do not receive enough nutrients will respond in a variety of ways and this includes stretching. Crops that are not spaced far enough apart are likely to stretch to sting the light to other plants. Due to extreme proximity, the plants will fight among themselves to reach the light, forcing them to expand as much as possible throughout the crop. HOW TO CONTROL STRETCHING DURING FLOWERING Stretching during flowering, you guessed it, takes place when you move your plants from the vegetation stage to the flowering stage. This is a completely normal reaction, as your plants are preparing to bear the weight of their heads. Stretching of a plant at the beginning of flowering varies widely; some plants can double in height while others grow only a few centimetres. There are, however, two main variables that can give you at least an idea of how your plants are stretching during flowering, and how much. Here are these two variables: Variety: Genetics has the greatest impact on the size of your plant. In general, sativa varieties stretch more than indicas and tend to develop long, slender stems. Light: Some lights, such as HPS, are more likely to encourage stretching. In addition, great distances between your canopy and your lights will cause the plants to stretch as they try to get closer to the light source. Stretching during flowering usually lasts the first two weeks of the phase. To minimize stretching, keep your lights between 10 (for CFL) and 30 centimetres (for HID) of your canopy. Finally, choose indica varieties if you have a smaller growing space. HOW TO AVOID STRETCHING In many cases, you can expect your cannabis plants to stretch during the flowering phase. Keeping that in mind helps to make a plan in case your species ends up growing much more than you could have imagined. If the information is available, get information on the standard size of your species and compare it to the size of your growing space taking into account the necessary distances between the bulbs and the plants. TRAFFIC While outdoor crop operations benefit from natural air to naturally limit stretching, indoor crops must assume the maintenance of air circulation within a confined space. Basic ventilation is enough to help the cannabis stems strengthen and become thicker rather than too high. In this way, the plants continue to grow vigorously without reaching heights and at the same time, your tolerance ceiling. MANUAL INTERVENTION For growers who want to get their hands dirty, there are physical procedures that can be done to reduce stretching. Similar to the natural effect that the wind has on cannabis plants, manually bending the leaves and stems will cause tiny cracks in the plant's tissues that will cause the plant to focus on regenerating its wounds instead of its vertical growth. THE TOPPING Topping is a form of manual intervention on cannabis to influence its performance, shape or size. In essence, topping is a process in which a new node is cut, growing from the plant to reduce its size and create a "v"-shaped notch that will eventually form two heads. Topping may be an effective measure to combat stretching, but it is important not to do so when the flowering phase begins. In most cases, an abnormal stretch of cannabis plants will not completely destroy your crop. In fact, stretching can indeed help increase your performance. For growers with a growing operation large enough to contain tall plants, stretching can increase the total yield of a species with more vertical space for head formation. In both cases, stretching can easily be planned in advance and there are multiple solutions to help you with this problem which is all too common. May the force be with you 💪
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@goeser
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slowly starting to get a setup.cstep by step. first time indoor. cant wait them to be bigger and start flowering