🍀13/07 - Empieza su séptima semana en semana en etapa de floración. 🍀Esta llena de tricomas, cada semana le agrego el Top Bud que ayuda mucho. 🍀Estoy tratando de que la temperatura en el armario sea baja, en algunas fotos se nota que de apoco estan tomando color violeta. 🍀No tuve problemas hasta el momento, dentro de dos semanas ya la podo. 🍀La planta entera esta en un 60% ambar. 🍀Esta cumpliendo 86 dias de vida en total desde su germinación. 🍀En estos dias seguire subiendo más imágenes de como viene. 🍀🇦🇷😶‍🌫️Podes seguirme en Insta gram como @bruweed_arg🍀🇦🇷😶‍🌫️

Week 3 - Day 2: Id say she's about done stretching I'll see in the next few days, I can tell the plant is diverting more energy to creating bud sites. I absolutely cannot wait these buds are gonna be sum chunkers. Very tight internodal spacing which I like I am not too worried about budrot, since I can keep humidity fairly low and plenty of air flow. My only issue is it's getting so big that my light isn't touching to the bottom of the canopy haha. I defoliated pretty heavily (no more than 30% on day 1 of week 3) I am thinking of letting it bounce back then I'm going to do one more strip of the bottom leaves and bud sites. I noticed I missed a few. But I'm gonna strip the bottom 1/3 bc no way my light will reach there. So far very happy! Day 3: Looking so good, I stripped the bottom 1/3 of the plant removed 99% of the fan leaves and smalls/larf down there. Going to be the last time I do so, I am a tad bit worried as I just stripped a good bit of leaves 3 days ago, but I felt it wasn't enough and had to go back in on it before it got to into mid flower. Fingers crossed 🤞 hoping for the best. So far I'm so happy with this grow, definently my best yet! Day 6 : Looking so freaking nice. Already getting Frost on some of the sugar leaves here on week 3. I have a feeling it's gonna be a frost monster. Hopefully a great washer 🙏 The top nugs are looking more "tight and dense" I'm thinking because it's a bit intense close to the light. I'm gonna lower maybe another inch or 2 see what it does. The buds lower have long luscious healthy hairs still a tight structure but already looking very beautiful.

Remember that, however you are played, or by whom, your soul is in your keeping alone. Even though those who presume to play you be kings or men of power, when you stand before God, you cannot say, 'But I was told by others to do thus,' or that virtue was not convenient at the time. This will not suffice. Remember that. Day:18 84°F and 65% RH (VPD) for the vegetative stage. Approximately 1.15kPa(assuming leaf temperature is about 2°F cooler than the air), which falls right into the ideal vegetative sweet spot (0.8kPa to 1.2kPa). At 1.15kPa, plants can draw water and nutrients efficiently without risking stress or wilting. It keeps the leaf pores (stomata) open, allowing for ideal carbon dioxide intake and maximizing vegetative growth. VPD is determined by the leaf's temperature, not just the ambient air. Because leaves usually run 1° to 3°F cooler than room air under bright grow lights, my actual VPD will be slightly lower, closer to the 1.0kPa mark. As she transitions from vegetative growth to flowering, one can gradually lower the humidity (to around 45–60%) and drop temperatures slightly to prevent disease from settling inside dense buds when they appear. Night:6 At 70°F and 60% relative humidity, Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) is 0.86 kPa. This is right on the cusp of whats optimal for the vegetative stage. During the nighttime, plants generally close their stomata and undergo cellular respiration rather than photosynthesis. Transpiration slows to a near stop, making VPD less critical at night than during the day. However, maintaining a nighttime VPD between 0.8 and 1.0 kPa is highly beneficial in that it ensures the air is dry enough to prevent powdery mildew or bud rot, but moist enough to keep the plant from undergoing unnecessary stress. This range keeps the environment comfortable for cellular processes and prevents large atmospheric swings. Keeping it all flowing. (Not pushing them yet, these are photoperiods) The optimal soil (root zone) temperature for cellular root respiration and nutrient uptake in cannabis is between 68F & 72F This narrow range balances biological energy production (cellular respiration) with the dissolved oxygen levels in the soil, maximizing plant growth and health. Warmer soils hold significantly less dissolved oxygen. When soil temperature exceeds 74F oxygen depletion occurs, inhibiting cellular respiration almost entirely, At 68-72F root cells generate optimal adenosine triphosphate (ATP) via respiration to power root-tip elongation and the active transport of water and nutrients. Too Hot (Above 78F) Root respiration increases, demanding more oxygen, while the water's oxygen-carrying capacity drops. This creates a prime environment for anaerobic pathogens and Pythium (root rot). Too Cold (Below 60F) Root metabolism and cellular respiration slow to a crawl. This severely impairs nutrient and water absorption, leading to yellowing, wilting, and phosphorus deficiencies. A lot depends on whether it's automatic or photoperiod; with photoperiod, there is not as much of a need to push "hard" as the real countdown only begins once the flower is initiated. Automatics, on the other hand, the chronological "clock" begins ticking the moment the seed germinates. It is of critical importance that the seedling growth gets off to the races, understanding that early growth is like compound interest, which will pay off come harvest. This reality is why getting autoflowers "off to the races" early on yields such exponential benefits. The "compound interest" is directly related to the surface area of the leaves. Larger, faster-growing seedlings process more light and build bigger root networks early on, which translates into an explosion of vertical and lateral growth during their short vegetative window. The margins for error are so thin with autoflowers; this early-stage momentum depends on several critical practices. Seedlings exposed to increased atmospheric CO2 levels early in life will develop at an increased rate. To effectively "extend" or optimize the capacity of Photosystem II (PSII) for increased photosynthetic efficiency. In standard oxygenic photosynthesis, Photosystem II (PSII) is naturally limited to the red-light spectrum, peaking at 680nm. Extending its light-harvesting capacity past 700nm into the far-red region requires bypassing the natural limits of standard chlorophyll a. Adding 730 nm (far-red) LEDs alongside standard red/blue lights has been shown to increase canopy photosynthesis by 20–30% in several crops by acting synergistically with shorter wavelengths. However, the limitation is that excessive, pure IR/Far-red light (without accompanying red light) can trigger the "shade avoidance response," causing plants to grow tall, weak, and spindly rather than robust. Utilizing infrared light (specifically the 700-750 nm far-red range) is a viable method to boost photosynthetic efficiency. It acts as a bridge to allow PSII to utilize a broader spectrum of light, breaking the traditional 700 nm barrier. UVR8-mediated signaling (often in conjunction with CRY proteins) triggers protective mechanisms that maintain the stability of the photosynthetic apparatus (including LHCII and reaction center proteins), thus ensuring that the efficiency of Photosystem II remains higher in UV-B-exposed plants compared to plants lacking this receptor. ΦPSII indictates the rate of electron transfer from water to plastoquinone, which drives the production of ATP and NADPH. There is a close link between ΦPSII and the true rate of CO2 fixation (Φ*co2). ETR stands for Electron Transport Rate. It measures the speed at which electrons are moved through the thylakoid membranes in a plant's chloroplasts during the light-dependent reactions of photosynthesis. Infrared light (particularly Near-Infrared or NIR) improves cellular energy by interacting directly with the electron transport chain (ETC) in mitochondria. This process boosts adenosine triphosphate production, which acts as a metabolic coefficient multiplier by accelerating enzyme activity dramatically. Extend then multiply. Far-Red photons interact with plant photoreceptors to accelerate the plant’s biological "clock" or trigger a shade-avoidance response. Autoflowers don't use the plant's biological clock, although the IR will initiate a shade avoidance and make them stretchy. You can just add equal measures of 660nm-680nm to negate the shade avoidance effect. Replacing nights' "darkness" with a combination of IR+ and 660nm. Because autoflowers don't require a dark period to flower, many growers just blast them with light. 18/6 24/0. However, this ignores the plant's metabolic rhythms, where daytime photosynthesis (light reactions) must be perfectly balanced with nighttime carbon fixation and assimilation (Calvin cycle) to avoid bottlenecking plant development. Cellular respiration is a 24/7 process, but it can only function while the plant has the free oxidative capacity to do so. A 100% photosynthetically active leaf cannot perform cellular respiration. The viral trend of defoliation of every leaf that isn't "getting enough light" is of great detriment overall, putting 100% of the cellular respiratory "workload" and responsibility on the 0/4/6 hours of darkness in sub-optimal conditions for enzymatic activity. Photosynthesis captures nearly 100% of the initial energy as carbon, while cellular respiration is the process that unlocks 90% of that captured energy into usable ATP so the plant can use it. Respiration is considered only roughly 30% to 40% efficient. It captures enough of the potential energy in glucose to synthesize around 30 to 38 ATP molecules per glucose molecule. The remaining 60% to 70% of the energy in the sugar is not captured in ATP; instead, it naturally escapes into the environment as heat, which helps regulate plant temperature. In plants, the primary enzymes of the Electron Transport Chain (ETC) and the ATP synthase complexes are typically adapted to function optimally in warmer temperatures (roughly 77°F to 95°F, depending on the specific plant strain). As temperatures rise within this physiological range, molecular collisions increase, speeding up respiration and ATP production. The cannabis plant has a branched respiratory pathway. During heat or cold stress, plants activate Alternative Oxidase (AOX). AOX burns sugars to dissipate energy as heat rather than coupling it to ATP production. This pathway actually functions optimally at elevated temperatures to help protect the cell from the damaging build-up of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) during heat stress. Enzyme activity generally scales with heat; there is a strict biological limit. If canopy temperatures in a grow room exceed 104°F, the enzymes and their supporting lipid membranes lose stability. Not saying you need to go crazy, just optimize nights the same as we optimize days. Phosphorus is the driving force behind early seedling development. It acts as the "energy hub" of the plant, directly driving cell division, robust root growth, and the creation of DNA. Without an adequate, easily accessible supply early on, the plant's overall growth potential and final yield can suffer permanently.

D42 F6 One week of 12/12 and she's stretching out real nice. I'll start to feed them from week 7. I've defoliated the central cola to allow the sides to catch up.

Day 8 Mon PH 5.7 EC 0.8 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 23c Day 9 Thue Change the water and add nuts 10 L PH 5.2/5.8 EC 0.8/0.8 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 25c Day 10 Wed I've confidently carried out defoliation on the lower branches of my autoflower plant. Despite the advice against it for autoflowers, I've decided to trust my intuition and follow my gut feeling. Time will tell the results. 😎 PH 6.3/5.8 EC 0.8 DLI /19h 17 PPFD / Water 22c Day 11 Thu PH 6.1/5.8 EC 0.8/0.9 DLI /19h 17 PPFD / Water 22c Day 13 Sat Add water to lower EC PH 5.8/ EC 1.0/0.8 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 22c Day 14 Sun The plant was slow to grow, but now it's starting pre-flower early. Add water to lower EC PH 5.2/5.8 EC 0.9/0.6 DLI /19h / PPFD / Water 20c

Video is of Mystery Cookies #1 and #2, with one of their mates, Captains Cake 04/10/2018 Getting ready for a seed run hope to get 1500,or so for a pheno hunt.

Update of Goofiez 2 !! It’s incredible this strain is so strong and fast grow !! Stay tu ed

Highly recommend and already started a 2nd grow of this perfect strain Auto Brooklyn Sunrise You can check my new report on my profile page The best taste ever The best mood and very happy and powerful all day Amazing smell of citrus Amazing look Best strain from autos that I have ever grew. Super lucky with this !

This week I’ve jus had em on ph ‘d water no nutes yet other than a little root stim, it was a busy time fo me this week do not been able to get in the grow room and give these girls the attention they need .

Set up Scrog in the start of the week. Foliar fed with CalMag + Iron 3 times this week. Defoliated lower shoots and fan leaves mid week. Raised ph in reservoir to 6.1 because the runoff was coming out at 5.2 ph. Now the runoff is at a steady 5.6 ph.

2 week

Chopped the first GG plant will update after it drys and I trim it. The cheese plant that isn't LST probably has another week or so maybe less. The rest have a few weeks slowly making more room in the tent. Only giving water for the rest of the time maybe some cal-mag to help the plants that at burnt (NL, both cheese).

📅 D85- 26/01 📜 Only fresh water from now on. She's not yet ready - 3-4 days more I think. ✍️ 0.1 EC ♒ 6 pH 🌊 10 L 📏 95 cm 📅 D90- 29/01 📜 Not yet Ready ✍️ 0.1 EC ♒ 6 pH 🌊 10 L 📏 95 cm

28 días de mis hermosas nenas... A una semana lo más probable las pasare a florar!!!

Day 71, 29th of November 2021: Here we gonthe first day of the week 5th of flowering! Nice group like the different "personalities" and "styles". Hopefully not much left I guess 3 weeks and we will be very close to the end :) Let's go then Happy Growing Guys! The only changes I made is the ventilation and the extraction fan is off at the same time with the lamp so only switches on when the lamp does. So this is the set up and and operation schedule now: ViparSpectra XS2000 is on full power which is 240W so 100% capacity. Ventilation: As I mentioned it is off when the lamp is off so 12 hours. When the lamp is on it switches on in every hour and off for one hour. The extraction fan is on 12 hours when the lamp is, and then it takes a rest with the lap together lol ;) Watering pretty much remains the same. Humidity quite is approx 50%, temperature as well approx 26-27 Celsius. Fertilization remains the same since last week, the BioBizz family raised up to be 2ml/L each so it is like 2ml/L of BioGrow, 2ml/L of BioBloom, 2ml/L of TopMax... see the ratio above. The schedule of the fertilization has not changed happnes 2x a week except epsom salt just 1x a week.

Esta semana se nota el strech de la genetica. buscamos que las plantas vayan sosteniendose en la red, poco a poco le agarramos la mano. Tenemos el led al 40%, semana que viene veremos de subirle al 60%, para eso tendria que aumentarle tambien la alimentacion. Este cultivo lo estoy haciendo en macetas mas chicas que las habituales, quiero ver si puedo llegar a un mismo resultado con menos sustrato. Vpd oscila entre 0.8-1.2 kpa

Vamos familia tercera semana de vida de estás Tropical Zmoothie de SeedStockers. Que ganas tengo de ver el progreso de esta variedad, las plantulas están sanas, se ven con buen color. La cantidad de agua cada 48h entre riegos. Esta primera semana ya añadimos nutrientes de la gama Agrobeta. Tuve problemas de trips en un indoor y tengo todas plagadas pero ya las e tratado con aceite de neem y un insecticida genérico, además añadí varias tiras de color azul, trataré esta semana y la siguiente. También realicé el trasplante a maceta definitiva, 7 litros. Estas próximas semanas veremos cómo avanzan. Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨.

Gracias al equipo de Seedsman y XpertNutrients sin ellos esto no sería posible. 💐🍁 Alaskan Do-Si-Dos: Alaskan Do-Si-Dos ha sido desarrollada por expertos como una versión mejorada de la siempre popular variedad Alaskan Purple de Seedsman. La introducción de la genética Do-Si-Dos en la Alaskan Purple ha creado un híbrido índica/sativa que aumenta la potencia y el rendimiento al mismo tiempo que mejora el perfil de sabor y sigue siendo versátil en lo que respecta al cultivo en exterior. La Alaskan Do-Si-Dos está destinada principalmente al cultivo al aire libre y en invernaderos. Las plantas crecen altas y prosperan en climas fríos, templados, cálidos y secos, al mismo tiempo que se desempeñan bien en altitud. Esto no impide que se cultive en interior, pero estas plantas grandes necesitarán mucho espacio. Las plantas muestran una resistencia moderada al moho pero, si se cultivan en interiores, hay que tener en cuenta que son RUIDOSAS, por lo que se beneficiará del uso de filtros de aire de carbón. En exterior, en latitudes septentrionales, la cosecha está prevista para finales de septiembre, mientras que en interior las plantas tardarán entre 8 y 10 semanas en completar la floración. Los rendimientos en exterior son muy altos y pueden superar fácilmente los 750gr/planta, mientras que en interior los rendimientos son elevados, hasta 600gr/m2. Los cogollos maduros tienen una densidad media y mantienen un color verde medio. 🌻🚀 Consigue aqui tus semillas: https://www.seedsman.com/eu-es/alaskan-do-si-dos-feminised-seeds-sman-aldsd-fem 🍣🍦🌴 Xpert Nutrients es una empresa especializada en la producción y comercialización de fertilizantes líquidos y tierras, que garantizan excelentes cosechas y un crecimiento activo para sus plantas durante todas las fases de cultivo. Consigue aqui tus Nutrientes: https://xpertnutrients.com/es/shop/ 📆 Semana 4: Aparecieron un monton de erizos esta semana, el temporal ha hecho algo de mella en la carpa al bajar las temperaturas aunque todo sigue correcto. Continuamos con las dosis de nutrientes recomendadas por el fabricante.

02/23 (M) (Pre-Flower) flipped mother into flower last week - flushed with clean water for 2 days then began giving flower nutes in small doses for now - still feeding off the drip lines seems to be working as planned. Feeds will become more often (once/twice a day - 1 min feeds. 02/23 (C) - 7 of the 15 clones have rooted successfully with thick multi strands in each clone - Green color starting to come back as well - Have begun applying nute feeds to help recovery - Will give the other 8 sometime to begin rooting but if nothing happens in the next week then I will keep the 7 rooting now and cull the other 8. 02/27 (M) (Pre-Flower) Mother currently in PRE-FLOWER and growing accordingly - Her feeds have been consistent (Once a day - altered between nutes and clean water) 02/27 (C) - Removed the 7 sicker clones and only kept 8 - Thus far they are running with 0 issues - High temps and High humidity seems to have increased veg and rooting production. Nodes are developing faster then normal will continue to monitor for any changes.

Lots of smells have become their own... The fried banana has this crazy skunk smell with a real earth dirt smell once the skunk fades... The orange cake NO kidding, smells like a fresh peeled orange and some kind of batter smell... It's nuts... The big Z has the immediate Skittles blast with a earthy afternote... And the paint is just like the last one and smells real chemical like! When u say the name it makes u smell the paint... Is that just me???? Hahaha anyways... Thats what I got .. everything is going amazing and for day 37 I think they've filled out real nice... Now hopefully they fatten up in the next 20-30 days!!!!