Upgraded from 200wts - 450wts Marshydro ts 3000. So far so good!!🤩

Finally are starting to add on a little weight, they’re looking nice and smelling even better! Can’t wait for them to really ripen!

Week 4: I somehow managed to overwater 2 of my cuties. Having a humidifier + the fan not being properly positionend kinda lead to this. However, they are now looking stronger again and back on track.

I am starting a Runtz Punch from Herbies seeds. I scuffed the seeds' end and dropped it in water. I will place the seed on the rockwool in 24 to 48 hours. As soon as I see a tap root. Thank you Herbies Seeds, and Spider Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

7/20/25 D64 F22 7/21/25 D65 F23 -water still in each reservoir -both EBs growing nicely 7/22/25 D66 F24 RW SB -SB reservoir empty -1 gallon water with 1/8 tsp ascorbic acid down SB reservior 7/23/25 D67 F25 7/24/25 D68 F26 RW SB -SB reservoir empty -1 gallon water with 1/8 tsp ascorbic acid down SB reservior -BB reservoir empty by end of light cycle 7/25/25 D69 F27 -going to leave BB reservoir dry until SB reservoir is dry, then top water with plain water 1 gallon each EB, after they drink what ends up in the reservoir from that watering, then I'll do a microbe top watering with fermented plant extracts pumpkin ferment and rootwise biophos -I see no sign of gnats at all in this tent so the way I used wdg3000 worked, just use after any application of worm castings or compost and taper it off until not needed 7/26/25 D70 F28 TW -added 1/8tsp ascorbic acid, quialla to 1 gallon of water -top watered BB EB -added 1/8tsp ascorbic acid, quialla to 1 gallon of water -top watered SB EB

CONTEST TEKNOGROW BIG BUDDHA SEEDS BUDDHA TAHOE GROWER GIOVANNI

Edit: 1st January 2020 I started playing with making time laps video. You can see the first trial video over 28h period. It starts a bit slow cuz I was still figuring out the shooting interval. The second half of the video is shot with 1 picture every 1,5min, and I love it! It’s gonna be fun playing with this! 😁 31.dec.19 Happy New Year everyone! 🎉 And let the show begin, the girls are half way and starting to show pistils. I’m doing my best to tie them down to keep an even canopy. The Ph got finally stabilized at 5.5-5.9, I’ll start getting it a bit higher next week 5.9-6.2 In order to accommodate them all the ppm seems to be in the sweet spot around 650-700 at this point. It looks like the Criticals could use more, while the slowest of the Gorillas... well, she is slow, so she needs less. The temperature gets a bit low here, but won’t do anything about it, I don’t want to spend more on the electric bill then I already do. I’m looking forward for my friend to come and pick up the DWC GZ so I can have some more space to stretch out the rest of the girls. Oh, I’m working on setting up an old iPhone in there to make time laps videos 🤞🏼Just imagine watching those buds fattening up 😃 Happy growing in the new year! 🍀

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

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Nutrients: EHG Micro & Grow, Biodyne, CalMag pellets, Phytha tonic Height: ±92cm Training: Minimal so far – letting her stretch naturally Tart Pops is now at Week 5 of veg and towering at just over 90cm! Strong central stalk with nice spacing between nodes. She’s clearly enjoying the environment and feeding routine, showing healthy leaf structure and consistent vertical growth. Started alternating Biodyne and fish tank water feedings with light EHG Grow + Micro to maintain a steady nutrient uptake. CalMag pellets are doing their job—no deficiencies showing. I’ve also added a preventive Neudosan spray due to early spider mite issues spotted on other plants in the grow. Holding off on heavy training for now—may top or tie down later this week depending on growth pattern. She's shaping up to be a beast going into the next few weeks! 📏: 92cm and rising 🌱 Vibes: Vigorous and lush Pest Control: Neudosan preventive spray

extremely glittery! in the dry room! removed fan leaves and deep freezed. I didn't have a luggage scale to wet weight, or however that's done. will have a dry weight after dry trim. and in cure bags.

Y bueno Fumetillaas ya en la semana 10 cumpliendo con el propósito de este medio ... Ir informando que pasa x ende querías decirles que nunca medimos ec... La verdad no podía frenar el amarillento o esas carencias ... Controlaba ph y suficiente... Ahora empezaremos a medir ec y ph para poder tener mejor electro conductividady tener mejor absorción de nutrientes ya que medimos macetas después del riego y tenemos una ec de 4.5 a 3.5 la cual deberia estar en otros parámetros por ende ... Siempre tuvimos alimentos suficientes para ellas solo que no teniamos la implementación necesaria... Después de la 11 a 12 cortamos y subimos el final de esta planta que luchó con todo

Hi Guys Sorry I havent got around to updating this Ive been moving stuff around and having a clear out in my flat we have decided to kit out the room and try to get a little bit more yield from some more plants which new diary will be created for both rooms :) starting with jack herer clones around 28 I have :) around 4 LED lights so far 2 10 inch extractors and a shit ton of fans lol these plants had to be moved to a friends house in order to set them up but they are still alive and kicking that is my friend on the video the first two plants are mine :) the first one is the melon and the larger one is the gorilla :)

Buds buds and more buds!

Day 77 This tall plant displays strong vertical growth with a sturdy central stem and several well-developed side branches. The leaves are broad and evenly distributed along the stem, showing a consistent deep green color that indicates good health, The upper section has vigorous new growth, suggesting the plant is actively developing. The pot appears adequately sized to support its height, and the soil surface looks well-maintained. Overall, the plant has a healthy structure, balanced proportions, and appears to be thriving under its current growing conditions.

Ok, here we are again in the kitchen😄 ... This young Girl Scout Cookies was the only one, along with another seed, to decide to sprout ... three others didn't want to come out of the shell ... so it wasn't really a super deal for the moment .... but you know, anything can happen in nature and I don't want to complain, at least until I see how this and her new sister will behave, and she decided to go out today from where it was planted (after about two days) ... you can see it under half a plastic bottle in the video 🌱... always in the video you can see together with those who share his house ... after there will remain less ... seems to be growing well .. today I have once again given the root stimulator, root juice, about 1ml for 1l water pH6, 5 , also to moisten the entire substrate well, but not excessively.. The oven is on .... we hope to have a good sweet smell.. see you next week ... Let me know if you like it😉... Good growing Bye ✌️

Lots of training on all the girls this week all original sensible two gorilla glue one is the biggest under scrog already ghost is right behind then going to lay the last babby gorrilla across light range stay tuned