nothing to say ... just that its outdoor growth ... looks good ... and tomorrow it will go to a 20-liter pot ... it looks healthy ..........

Beginning of week.. Damn she is a very nitrogen sensitive bitch! I really hope she starts to thicken up some.. I think it hurt the yeild some.. Unless she thickens up nicely. It's not as bad as I've seen other nitrogen toxic plants.. With every single leaf cupped or clawing downward.. But the top leaves are pretty clawed.. And even alot of the sugar leaves throughout the plant.. Damnit.. Also, I've noticed that she is actually using up nutrients like FastBuds said.. The runoff has been coming out alot lower than it is going in.. I guess they weren't bullshitting me lol.. Blah whatever.. Damnit, I really hope I didnt fuck this up 🤦🤞🤞🤞 Almost mid week... So I'm using a Brita pitcher with filter for my tap water.. It doesn't do much lol.. Some, of course.. But I'm also using a very cheap filter in it.. Wal-Mart brand.. Which sucks.. But that is helping bring the TDS of nutrient solution down from 1000 PPM - 1100 PPM to about 850 PPM - 900 PPM.. Just regular tap water from 240 PPM - 260 PPM down to 180 PPM - 190 PPM.. Like I said.. Some.. But not much. I'm not sure if there should be any changes to the plant if the nitrogen toxicity is cleared out.. I went ahead and did a nice flush to get all that shit out of the medium.. It should have helped.. Still going to keep the FloraMicro down.. I really hope this doesnt hurt the yield or taste!!!! I'm assuming she should be close to about halfway thru flower so she should have time to recover before flushing and harvesting.. Will be updating with pics tomorrow! Oh.. And I also lowered the light to 14 inches from the canopy.. Well.. To the tallest cola lol Mid week.. She is still maintaining herself.. The trichomes are so beautiful!.. Been keeping the PPMs a bit lower than I think I should.. I think Calcium deficiency is popping back up.. I think I'm seeing some new spots pop up.. Not too bad.. And it could just be from when I was flushing a bit at the beginning of the week.. Havent changed the amount of CalMag so I imagine that's what it's from. But other than that and the nitrogen toxicity, she is doing good! Next day (Merry Christmas!🎄).. So the trichome heads are still normal (not purple like I thought).. But the trichome stems(?) are purple. So fucking gorgeous.. But I can still see that the trichome heads are clear/milky/amber.. There are already quite a few milky! Damn.. Maybe FastBuds actually means 9 - 10 weeks from seed! Lol.. The colas are starting to fatten up a bit.. So I'm happy! I really enjoy the narcotic effect so I'm gonna harvest when there are quite a bit of amber trichomes.. My Lemon Berry from ETHOS had not many amber.. And the high is very paranoid like lol.. Dont get me wrong.. I love the high.. But paranoia is definitely there lol.. So I'm trying to avoid that with this girl! Later that night... So after running a couple gallons through the Brita pitcher filter (with Wal-Mart brand filter), the TDS is coming out around 150 PPM!!! Ok.. So not bad lol.. Works MUCH better than I figured it would! NICEeEeEe... Lol.. But as for the love of my life (lol not kidding).. She is starting to swell for sure!.. Still think she's gonna be a little airy tho.. But she shouldnt yeild small! End of week.. Not seeing any new clawing.. Starting to see more spots.. I mean, they are super bad.. But there are alot throughout the girlie.. So as I've been feeding, watering, feeding, watering, etc... I've noticed the runoff PPM aren't as high as they normally would be.. This could be why the spotting is happening.. Not sure if these spots are from Calcium.. Magnesium.. Or even something else.. It's kinda hard to tell.. But honestly I'm not too concerned about them.. She is not TOO too far from harvesting.. Haven't began to flush yet.. But I think that may be happening very soon.. Maybe 1 more week of weak feedings and then 2 weeks of flushing.. I am definately seeing plenty of cloudy trichomes.. And some amber now.. I will be trying to get some pics of the trichomes next week for sure! They are so pretty! This is one finicky bitch for sure! But now that I know her issues, it should make it quite easier to avoid the same issues next time I grow her! Still very happy with this girl!... On to the next!!!...

New Aeroponics "root rain" mist cloner! Holds 2 gallons of water. I added 8 Tsp of CloneX clone/seedling nutrient. PH was 6.0-6.5ish, good enough! These clones inside got zapped pretty hard one day, because I forgot to plug in the water pump one time after playing with it hehehe... Some didn't make it, but most survived! every other plant was watered with just de-chlorinated tap water, for re-hydration. #4 has been selected as the winning pheno! The mother plant had her home upgraded to a 2gal pot. The root ball was not so bound, due to her receiving a root-prune not too long ago, she was re-potted back into a solo cup. I pruned the bottom of the root mass off with a light pinch, and potted her into her new 2gallon home!

5/5/24

~~~~04.20.23~~~~ Day 51 - Above Ground - Target 65 Days 📝Saturday 06.10.23 - As this week comes to an end, I am seeing signs that the plants need a bit of calcium, so today was a topdressing day with a 70/30 blend of Bloom to Grow, watered in with H20 PG to 6.2 with CalMag at 5ML per Gallon of H20. Look at those Frosty Buds! 📝Thursday 06.08.23 - Watering with H20 PH @ 5.8/6.5 the buds on these girls are just getting crazy fat!, the new light setting is doing very well, and the plants are praying hard, and the Medic Grow Smart 8 Flowering Setting 1. ~~~~~~~~~~~ 📝@fastbuds_official 📝Soil - ProMix HP 📝Medic Grow Smart 8 LED / Light Settings: 40% - V1 📝@medicgrow420 📝@gaiagreenorganics ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 📝Cinderella Auto - grows dark-green thick buds with elongated large-sized calyxes and lots and lots of long amber hairs all over them.

Pesei a mão na cobertura orgânica, joguei muito perto dos caules, e ainda inoculei com chorume, queimaram as folhas novas

In week 6 my HOMEBOX growtent has filled up so much, that I need to defoliate the plants. I take them out one by one and take off all lower branches (that dont get enough light) and all leaves of the lower part of the plant. I also take off most of the bigger fan-leaves of the top part of each plant, so the light can penetrate deeper into the canopy. I also add stakes and a plant-holder-ring to each pot, so the bigger plants are supported for better growth. You can see the difference in the BEFORE AND AFTER pics above. Two PURPS-plants from BC-BUD-Depot turned out to be male and have been discarded. Into one of the empty spots I put a small plant of BLUE MINT from Mountain High Seeds as replacement. The other spot stays empty. I simply put a tray into the open spot, so the water is not in the light and no algea grows in my autopot system. The watering via the Flexitank-reservoir works very well. Once a week I fill the reservoir with water mixed with BIO NOVA nutrients, following the SOIL-CULTIVATION schedule of BIO NOVA. Since the EC of my tap water is very high (comes out with EC=1,0 already) I can only add a lower amount of nutrients, therefore I use the BIO NOVA schedule at HALF strength. My babies LOVE the light from the EVO4-120 LED-fixtures from SANlight, they THRIVE under it! At this stage my two lamps are dimmed to 80% (=two green lights are ON, on the dimmer at side of lamp) and hang at a distance of 30 cm from the top of the plants. Now after the defoliation the airflow through the tent is much better and the light can also get to the lower parts of the plant. This way the flowering can continue with an enhanced grow of the buds.

Blackberry Moonrocks is building some very interesting little buds. I am excited to see how she grows from here, I really like the description of this strain 😁 Here's what I did this week 9.8.25: I watered with 3.5 of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.6 with; 💜 1ml Trace PH: 6.6 PPM: 350 12.8.25: I watered with 1.5L of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.2 with; 💜 1ml Trace PH: 6.2 PPM: 349 13.8.25: I watered with 1.5trs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.6 with; 💜 1ml Trace 💜 1 TSP Biosys PH: 6.6 PPM: 351 17.8.25: I watered with 3.5 ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.5 with; 💜 2ml Trace PH: 6.5 PPM: 364 Thanks for following this one, should be a good one! 😁💚✌️🍃🙏

💩Holy Crap We Are Back At It And Loving It💩 Growmies we are at DAY 49 and she's just killing💀it👌 👉We are in full flowering mode and she's doing great 👈 Everything is looking good even the Tiny Cup 🥤 So Shit , I gave them just a tad to much nutes at the start of feeding 👈 But I have since fixed it So I'm still doing some low stress training 🙃 and some defolation 😳 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

Most ladies are showing signs of flowering so today I will start counting the weeks. Here u can also see my mutant/special ladies. They germinated a bit different from the others. Day 3 of flower is showing some major progress‼️🙌🏽 I did NOT top any of these mutated plants. I only removed some very ugly growing leaves. So everything u see on them is done by mother nature.

Gracias al equipo de AnesiaSeeds, Marshydro, XpertNutrients y Trolmaster sin ellos esto no sería posible. 💐🍁 Oracle Octane: Oracle Octane es una cepa altamente potente y con un alto contenido de THC elaborada a partir de una Blackberry Octane seleccionada, excepcionalmente rica en THC y aromática, y de la pesada Blackberry Oracle, inédita, de nuestro propio acervo genético. El desarrollo de esta carismática e impresionante variedad abarcó 8 generaciones y un enorme esfuerzo de cría. La variedad tiene un sabor intenso e inolvidable que recuerda a bayas dulces y limones frescos. Las plantas a partir de semillas crecen increíblemente hermosas y sus hojas y cogollos a menudo desarrollan tonos de rojo, morado intenso e incluso casi negro. Esta cepa vigorosa y ligeramente índica dominante tiene un tiempo de floración de unas 9 semanas, produce hojas grandes y alcanza una altura de unos 120-130 cm en el interior. 🌻🚀 Consigue aqui tus semillas: https://anesiaseeds.com/product/oracle-octane/ 💡TS-3000 + TS-1000: se usaran dos de las lámparas de la serie TS de Marshydro, para cubrir todas las necesidades de las plantas durante el ciclo de cultivo, uso las dos lámparas en floracion para llegar a toda la carpa de 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80. https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-ts-3000-led-grow-light/ 🏠 : Marshydro 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80, carpa 100% estanca con ventanas laterales para llegar a todos los lugares durante el grow https://marshydro.eu/products/diy-150x150x200cm-grow-tent-kit 🌬️💨 Marshydro 6inch + filtro carbon para evitar olores indeseables. https://marshydro.eu/products/ifresh-smart-6inch-filter-kits/ 💻 Trolmaster Tent-X TCS-1 como controlador de luz, optimiza tu cultivo con la última tecnología del mercado, desde donde puedes controlar todos los parametros. https://www.trolmaster.com/Products/Details/TCS-1 🍣🍦🌴 Xpert Nutrients es una empresa especializada en la producción y comercialización de fertilizantes líquidos y tierras, que garantizan excelentes cosechas y un crecimiento activo para sus plantas durante todas las fases de cultivo. Consigue aqui tus Nutrientes: https://xpertnutrients.com/es/shop/ 📆 Semana 9: He visto algo de moho en la cola principal, he eliminado ese cogollo y la he sacado a la luz del sol hasta que esté lista. El engorde de los cogollos está prácticamente terminado y solo falta que maduren un poco antes de ser cosechada. Gran trabajo por parte de mis colaboradores, estoy bastante contento con este grow, el próximo tendré más atención en la etapa de crecimiento, la cual es muy importante si quiero obtener una cosecha de calidad. A partir de ahora agua hasta el fin.

The top buds are still fattening up but slower than last week. In the lower branches there are also many smaller buds that have started growing. I guess the plant is fattening up those as well. The flowering time of this strain is between 9 and 10 weeks, so it still has at least 2 weeks to fully mature. The top buds are looking nice and frosty, and the smell is outstanding! More pics will be added after wednesday. I lost my Sanlight dimmer key and waiting for a new one to arrive. And taking pictures with the growlight at 100% is no bueno 😐 🌿🌿🌿 Mid-week update Allright so my dimmer is replaced and I can take more pictures of this frosty lady ✌️ The trichrome production on this plant is more than I have ever seen sofar. My microscope broke down and I'm waiting on a new one to arrive so I can inspect the trichromes more closely. We're entering the ninth week of blooming so the plant should be ready within 2 weeks.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Hi Guys ! The plant suffered of a Nitrogen/Calcium deficiency, so I fed her with more FloraMicro and I raised the CaliMagic dose for the past week. She's lookin fine today ! I think I killed all the bugs, I added some Neem Powder on the top of the soil and 3/4cm of clay peebles ! The blooming really starts and this little girls starts to smell weakly. I just remove the leaves that covered the Bud, and I did some LST that works a lot ! See you next week, keep on growing !🕉️

I harvested part of it! I had a problem with this plant until 3 weeks of flowering It messed up the whole plant. 😣😒

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Week 5😃 Unfortunately, I am visiting my family for Easter so there will not be any update after Day 29. Some bad news : I accidentally broke the main canopy. I tried just to bend her a little lower and it snapped. I taped it and hope it recovers🙏 End of Week Update : Finally Home. So what happened these days. 1st : The plant wasn't watered at all (auto-watering system still on the making) 2nd : Main Canopy didn't mend herself after getting snapped 3rd : Still keeping good vibes and energy 🤘

D49 The Purps is rocking. I hope she's near done with the stretch as she's now approaching 40" tall. She's got a ton of bud sites and they're all plumping up and getting frosty. She's been pretty hungry and thirsty, demanding 3 litres of water almost every day. Her PPMs have been running in the low 900s with stable PH. She's due for a rez change and will get one tomorrow after 2-weeks of top-ups. Super happy with the way she is growing and she may actually finish within her 6-7 week advertised harvest time. 🤞 Thanks for tuning in ✌️