Since I can no longer get the humidity below 58% and the rust spots on some of the sugar leaves are getting bigger, I decided to harvest . Unfortunately I couldn't wait for the perfect time, so luckily I don't have any clear trichomes , about 75% cloudy ones and the rest amber. 67 Day's from Seed to Harvest

Today is just the harvest, wash and hang dry process. Still must dry and cure and won’t tastes for at least 30 more days. Sorry guys. Updates later

Will keep a mother plant. Beautiful plant, probably needed more food. But it produced a good night medicine, very relaxing melt into your couch and grow roots out your as cause you won't be going anywhere soon.😑 PS. Smoke report was for first plant harvested the smaller one. And she's not even cured yet, can't Wait to see how second plant harvested bigger one turns out I let her go 60% amber 30% cloudy and 10% still clear trichomes. Pros, she will let you relax, good night med. Still curing plant 2 but feeling stoked Earlier cut was less amber still good sleeping. Can only get better meds at 60% Amber should be fire🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥promise to update after testing out. Maybe 3 weeks I hope I can wait !😬0 Plant #2 dried four days, till stems almost crack, been jarred up in glass for 1 week burping jars as needed, 2 weeks till 1st test smoke plant #2. See you in 2 weeks peace out. Wow 2 week's already? 02/07/2018 Still a little moist. Smoking a little bit high hit me fast. Taste blah back to jar.🙏

Harvest time for amnesia lemon haze. Intense lemon smell, tall stretchy girl with big sticky buds! While her height almost became an issue, she managed to finish with minimal light stress and just a few signs of foxtailing. Will update in 7-10 days with initial smoke and dry weight. Thanks for tuning in to this grow 👽🌳🔥💚 Update - 79 grams dried, minus a couple grams for the smoke test. Buds have a lemon smell and a lemon fruit flavor when smoked.

19.07.21 Anfang der 4 blüte Woche alles läuft soweit OK hab die Lampe heut wieder 3cm höher gehängt da einige Blatt spitzen anfangen zu verblassen denke mal das das Licht zu intensiv war, hoffe natürlich das ich die Ladys nicht über düngt habe. Hab auch die bloom dosis um 1ml/L herabgesetzt also jetzt nur noch 3ml/L anstatt maximaldosis 4ml/L. Blätter von den gegenüberliegenden buds fern halten war heut auch wieder angesagt und unterm netz halten sowieso...... 20.04.21 wie gedacht hatte meine Pflanze Licht stress glaub ich zumindest die oberen Blätter sind heller geworden aber jetzt fängt sie auch noch an ihre Zähne am Rand der Blätter hoch zu Rollen glaube das ist überdüngung Hab es mal wieder übertrieben...... 21.04.21 danke erstmal an alle die mir so schnell auf mein Hilfe gesuch geantwortet haben. Ich hab mir diesbezüglich meine Gedanken gemacht und mich entschlossen das ich den Dünger wieder runter schraube da ich ja auf gut abgestimmter Erde und nicht auf coco züchte sollte ich wohl eher weniger benutzen dessen bin ich mir jetzt bewusst geworden (hätte ich auch selbst drauf kommen können ich dussel). Die Lampe lasse ich jetzt auf 30cm Abstand da ich nicht das Gefühl habe das nach 2 Tagen 30cm das verblassen weiter fort schreitet (wird aber weiter beobachtet). Morgen ist giessen dran werde dann nur Wasser mit green sensation geben und beim nächsten giessen dann wieder mit minimal Düngung weiter machen um die Pflanzen nicht zu sehr zu stressen.... 22.04.21 hab heute gegossen und auf dünger verzichtet soweit bis auf Green sensation 1ml/L und hab nochmal drüber nachgedacht wann das Problem mit den hoch rollenden Zähnen der Blätter anfing das war nach dem letzten giessen 2tage später nach dem ich wieder sugar royal gegeben hatte hätte den wohl lieber wieder weiter unten anordnen sollen von der menge her naja ich lerne dazu Fehler müssen sein sonnst hätte ich ja nix zum lernen is ja auch langweilig...... 23.04.21 glaube die Ladys mästen sich jetzt da wo gestern noch minimale Lücken an den buds waren sind jetzt keine mehr das Wachstum is eingestellt seid 4 Tagen kam nix mehr an Höhe dazu. Ab jetzt kann sie Dann auch Figur an nehmen und ordentlich Gewicht zu legen hoffe es geht weiterhin so gut voran bis jetzt bin ich mega glücklich das es so gut klappt Ach ja und das Blätter runter schieben unters netz hab ich jetzt ein gestellt es wird einfach zu klebrig da zwischen den buds und ich will die trichom Köpfe nicht permanent berühren, nicht das ich noch irgendeine krankheit mit an schleppe oder andere Keime bzw. Beschädigungen anrichte an den Köpfen (ich desinfizieren meine Hände immer gründlich bevor ich an den Pflanzen hand anlege meistens doppelt und dreifach, hab aber trotzdem schiss man Weiss ja nie was so an Bakterien und keimen überlebt)..... 24.04.21 hab heute nix ich wiederhole NIX gemacht an den Pflanzen war einfach zu faul war sogar zu faul zwischen durch mal zu schauen was die Temps und die Feuchtigkeit so machen deshalb kann ich heute nicht viel erzählen....... 25.04.21 diese woche lief auch wieder garnicht mal so schlecht ich bin echt erstaunt darüber das die Pflanzen so gut voran schreiten drückt mir die Daumen das das so bleibt.......

The buds are growing bigger still and the tent is really starting to smell, the stems have turned red from being close to the grow lights and my center buds have foxtailed, i now know for future runs to stay more on top of training so the plant cant grow as tall. pistils are starting to turn, If i had to guess I would say 11 weeks seems like an accurate flowering time I have also let them get dry a few times.

Привет друзья. Моей растихе сегодня 129 дней Сегодня температура упала до +8° Замёрзла моя девочка(( Буду делать сверху водяное отопление) а то так дело не пойдёт зимой) 20.10 перевёл свет в режим 12/12 Начал применять LST технику на 19 дне, а 18 августа добавил ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ С 20.08 ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ делаю каждые 3,4 дня С 20.08 LST технику делаю каждые 4.6 дней На сегодняшний день влажность 54% 5.09.2023 заметил высокий Ph 7.9 С 48 дня Ph не ниже 5.8 На сегодняшний день Ph 6.0 Начал кормить с 60 дня Canna Terra Vega PPM 870 Всем мира и добра! Не забудь поставить лайк❤️, если понравилась как прошла неделя И читайте наш TELEGRAM: https://t.me/smail_seeds #Smail_Seeds 😀

growing to fast 😇

Unfortunately I've cut 1 branch of a.s.Diesel, 2 branches of t.b.kings and some buds of Jamaican dream because of not having weed.

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

I used a bounty paper towel inside of a 6x4 glass storage container cut to match size. Sprayed distilled water generously over, then gently placed seeds evenly apart from each other. Placed a second paper towel and sprayed again with distilled water. Sprayed inside lid and closed for 48 hours prior to opening. Left raised above ground floor on cardboard box directly in front of heat intake duct. Temp and humidity were around 75-80F and 60-70%humidity. after a successful beginning, I then planted each seed using latex gloves into 4 different pots ; 1-5gallon happy frog only, 1- 5gallon pot happy frog with clay pebbles, 1-3 gallon pot happy frog only and 1-3gallon happy frog and clay pebbles. I covered each seed with a cut up 2litre clear soda bottle with small holes poked on the tops. I sprayed down the soil and the plastic containers. I left them covered until I noticed the cotyledon leaves then I removed the plastic covers, increased circulating fan speed and added a bag of exhale co2. Watered daily 2-3 times by misting with spray. (Distilled water in humidifier and used in feeding)

God willing hopefully after this week we can start harvesting this plant kinda over her now. I have other plants that need the tent she is in lol welp fingers crossed

Not sure why the other seeds didn’t germinate. One of the other Bananacane’s started to but died off upon sprouting

Muy buenas familia aquí una semana más mostrando el progreso de mis niñas este último riego le he puesto de todo siempre le pongo el mínimo de la tabla como lo ven? Hago bien o le pongo un poco más según se experiencia que me dirían? La verdad que yo veo que están avanzando bien están agarrando buena estructura los cogollos buen color y buen olor 😁 el foco esta a 30 cm de la punta mas alta esto está bien? Las otras puntas son un poco más bajas la humedad sigue igual la temperatura tambien 25° en algún momento llega a los 26 pero no siempre extractor e infractor funcionando al 100% un ventilador que mueve el aire pH de agua de riego en 6.3 y el de salida de la tierra igual la EC de entrada y de salida perfecta en el siguiente riego que lo haré sólo con agua y atazyme tomaré foto de las medidas de PH Y EC bueno familia en 7 días vuelvo por aquí espero sus comentarios que tengan buena semana paz familia

got so fucked last night day .....erg........................... Smells so , just so ,.... lol it’s dark but fruity , starts off how you expect it to be , purple strains seem to have a winey sort of note , but this has @ sweet after , even though the tall one looks different it smells the same 😜 Am dragonforcing -

Finally bud sights day 38 from seed 👌🏾🤞🏾

Now using a and b bloom 1 ml and added cannaboost 1ml