I thought the ladies would have another 2-3 weeks left in veg, but started to notice pistils forming within the last couple of days. So flower will most likely start to begin within the next week, I’m guessing I may see a couple oz per plant come harvest day. Not bad for first time grow & using autos, from what I’ve heard a lot of people do not recommend learning with autos due to how quickly their state can change depending on what you do with them. There are some things I wish now I would have done a bit different within the last couple of weeks, I can’t help but wonder how much bigger they’d be if I did not do any defoliation at all. But I have been combating flies bad and made the call to defoliate mainly for that reason. Started to cut back on veg foods and introduce flower foods and sugars to their diet. Humidity levels still at a steady decrease, aiming to have humidity down in the 30s come flower time. Will be going on vacation for a week soon, so fingers crossed that nothing goes wrong. Will be having a good friend of mine come by every couple of days to FaceTime me and make sure everything is handled as well as possible when the time comes.

As I said, she has become a single fat dense and sticky main cola, very compacted, looks like it's just 1 huge fat nugget. Very nice aroma but not stinky at all. I'm enjoying her, she's not very big but she's literally a single big fat nugget.

just water no food Here is a link to where you can find this https://2fast4buds.com/us/seeds/orange-sherbet-fast-flowering

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

Hi together! Since last Week there is really no Big difference, #5 is developing better than I thought, and the other two plants are just preparing for harvest. There is no Big increase in amber trichomes on Both plants, I dont know the Reason behind that. I Plan to harvest them no matter what until sunday - 100 days is enough Time to wait :P Since I have watered them without nutrients for 1 1/2 week, I will stop Water them the Next days and will let them dry out. I wish you a nice easter monday - cu ;) Wulle

Hey everyone 🤗. A lot has happened this week ☺️. Not surprised that the plants look so extremely dark, is that because I sprayed them with neem oil as a preventive measure , because I discovered a very young trip on a plant. This annoys me extremely, because the attachment room is very clean and neither shoes nor dirty clothes come in when you enter the room 😩. But since I had the problem in most cases years ago, I am very confident that I will get the problem under control very quickly 😃. Otherwise, everything is developing very well as usual 👌. I wish you a lot of fun with the new update, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 😃. You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/cream-caramel/ Type: Cream Caramel ☝️🏼 Genetics: Blue Black x Maple Leaf Indica x White Rhino 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

Willkommen in meiner kleinen Canna-Bonsai Oase!👇 🌿 Manchmal liegt die größte Schönheit im kleinsten Detail. Diese kleine Kunstpflanze ist eine Frost Banger von 42 Fast Buds, liebevoll gezogen als echter Bonsai. Es ist einfach faszinierend zu sehen, wie sich diese Sorte auf so kleinem Raum entfaltet. Der Name ist absolutes Programm: Die Blüten sind schon unglaublich harzig und frostig! ❄️🔥 Die tägliche Pflege, das Beschneiden und Formen dieses Mini-Baums ist für mich pure Meditation – mein persönlicher kleiner Zen-Garten für den Alltag. 🧘‍♂️💚 🌳 Habt ihr euch schon mal an einem Canna-Bonsai versucht oder bleibt ihr lieber bei den großen Pflanzen? Lasst es mich in den Kommentaren wissen!

Hi growers, sorry for the prolonged absence, but in this last period I was very busy. In this last week I cut one of the four Cheese and finished cutting the buds today. The other three plants are in the sea of green and each has different flowering times. In my SOG under the HPS lamp there are now several strains besides the three Cheese. I have a Gorilla with photoperiodic genetic prevalence that is completing its life cycle and is now four months old, but very large and productive. Then there are a Lemon Haze, a Sweet Tooth, an Amnesia Haze and a Gorilla that have now begun their flowering phase. All the other strains are in the vegetative phase and two Zkittlez and two Cream Cookies from Fastbuds are added to my secret garden 😋 April 12. Last week I started scoring the first 79 grams collected for the month of April with the first Cheese. There are three left in my SOG, two of which are in an advanced state of flowering. The third plant is the background of my SOG, it is the mutilated one. It has produced many long branches that I have enlarged and has now begun its flowering phase.

Tiny pot, tiny harvest hehe. This grow was only for fun and I really enjoyed doing it! :) - I didn't weight wet buds. - Drying was made around 21°C and around 55% of humidity. Veg time : 31 days. Flowering time : 46 days. Total time from seed to harvest : 81 days. Height : 36cm Pot size : 0.35l

Hiiigh friends 🙌 Welcome to the last week. 🍀 She is harvested, dried and cured. An amazing taste for sure! 🍑 See you next run 👋 Arturo for KannaKullektiv 🙏

Monday, March 1st. I filled some Claygranules on the Surface of the Eggcups ( 10g of Soil) That keeps them longer Happy I learned alot in these Grows, and its easy now for me, to keep them Happy Plants building nice Flowers and from now on Buds will swell

I love the strain the smell it’s so good and the flower is beautifully

Terminando la 4ta semana y ahora voy a pasar a Overdrive . Espero que esto resuelva los problemas de PH que estuve teniendo. Si bien algunas hojas quedaron muy marcadas, espero que ahora deje de avanzar el amarilleo. Las flores se ven bien y las hojas chicas por ahora no fueron afectadas. De todos modos voy a seguir monitoreando el ph a diario. Hice un lavado antes de agregar esta solución y de paso hice una inundación del caño principal, pero salió bastante limpio todo. Ahora entro en las últimas 2 o 3 semanas, así que es la parte donde no puedo errar más.

They weren't kidding about the preflower growth, they are absolutely exploding!

Let up[ on the LST for now, seems to have worked very well. Still no problems only fed once still so far. Water with mist bottle until soil on top is wet about every third day.

All in all every strain is doing great! Blueberry is the closes to finishing followed by chemdawg and lastly the Somango I just flipped little over a week ago so still have a little while to go with her! Blueberry has a pungent and fresh berries/citrus aroma going on while the chemdawg has the infamous og odor no doubt og is related to it haha. Thanks for checking it out! XD ..sorry for the delayed update

На фото 66 день от каски и 31 день 12/12 сразу после полива Температура чуть спала,стали медленнее пить.Вроде накормил их,дренаж выходит адекватный,можно раз пролить чистой водой.Светит на всех сильно,тяжело накормить и не засолить субстрат,пока что свет уменьшать не хочу,гляну,как будет Пахнуть начинают все сильнее,запах очень приятный :) А ещё вода с крана поменяла ppm,всегда была 245,а стала 205,никогда раньше небыло такого,может тдс метр сломался,не знаю) На видео 69 день от каски и 34 от переключения 12/12 Убавил все таки мощность ламп,каждая кола получает примерно 800ppfd,вроде лучше стало. Соцветия набухают на глазах,запах усиливается,сахар тоже появляется все больше,кароче все нормально,только вид теперь неочень красивый у них :)

Exciting first few days setting up everything in and around the propagator. I think I'll start counting the vegging days when the seedlings are 7-10 days old.

Bud sites are starting to form and I like how solid the stems are on this small stock. I'm expecting huge colas on this one so I'm keeping her grow under control and aiming for multiple sticky colas on this girl she smells amazing! This week all plants but the Sweet Tooth will be getting Massive nutrients from Green Planet which does wonders for getting those fat colas.