Bonjour à tous les padawans et les maîtres jedis Pour cette semaine 3 au jour 19 ma plante fais 21 centimètres et son septième noeud apparaît je décide donc de pratiquer un LST sur ma plante. Pour ce j'utilise du fil de fer galvanisé que je plante directement dans le substrat en faisant attention de ne pas endommagé les racines car n'oublions pas que ce qui pousse dessus pousse aussi dessous. Jour 17 je pulvérise du une solution composé d'une cuillère à café de savon noir mou (marque briochin) dilué dans un demi litre d'eau en prévention d'éventuels nuisibles. Pourquoi le savon noir mou ? Savon noir : quelle utilisation pour le jardin ? Le savon noir est un produit naturel dont les propriétés nettoyantes sont connues depuis l'Antiquité. Utilisé pour l'entretien de la maison et pour les soins corporels, ses vertus antibactériennes et insecticides en font un allié précieux pour le jardinier bio. Le savon noir est fabriqué à partir de potasse et d'un corps gras de type huils végétale comme l'huile d'olive, de lin ou de maïs. Produit naturel et biodégradable (s'il ne contient pas d'additifs, comme cela peut-être parfois le cas), c'est un très bon produit nettoyant, pour les sols, la cuisine, la vaisselle, le linge, etc... Très polyvalent, il est également économique, comparé aux multiples détergents classiques du commerce. Le savon noir se trouve sous forme de pâte molle et brune ou sous forme liquide, dilué avec de l'eau. C'est du savon noir liquide dont on se sert généralement au jardin, car son utilisation est plus simple. Il s'achète dans les magasins bio ainsi qu'en grandes surfaces ou jardineries. Attention : la recette du savon noir de ménage et celle du savon noir utilisé en cosmétique ne sont pas forcément les mêmes ; les savons noir de ménage (multi-usages) peuvent contenir davantage de potasse afin d'améliorer le pouvoir dégraissant (irritant ou desséchant pour la peau), voire même certains additifs chimiques. Au jardin, ce sont en priorité les propriétés antiseptiques et insecticides du savon noir qui sont utilisées. Le savon noir liquide est utilisé pour lutter contre les pucerons, les cochenilles, les araignées rouges, les aleurodes, les psylles et autres thrips. C'est un insecticide de contact ; il tue les larves et nettoie le miellat qui englue les feuilles. La recette de l'insecticide à base de savon noir (mou pour ma par marque briochin) est simple à réaliser : une ou deux cuillères à café de savon noir mou (briochin) diluées dans 1 demi litre d'eau tiède (dilution à 5 %) ; une fois la préparation refroidie, pulvérisez-la sur les plantes atteintes, en prenant soin de ne pas oublier l'envers des feuilles. À renouveler 1 à 2 fois si nécessaire, pour être totalement débarrassé des indésirables. Comme il est de mise pour la plupart des traitements, ne pulvérisez pas la solution à base de savon noir en pleine journée, sous le soleil (ni sous la pluie !) ; procédez le matin de bonne heure ou patientez jusqu'à la fin de journée, lorsque les températures sont en dessous de 20°C. Jour 18 Je corrige mon LST suivant la pousse de ma plante ... Pour ma par c'est la manière dont je procède mais petit rappel de la technique du LST Quand commencer à appliquer la technique LST ? De nombreux cultivateurs commencent la manipulation dés que les plantes possèdent entre 3 et 6 nœuds ou une paire de feuilles. Durant cette première étape de la croissance, le tronc encore flexible est pliable sans risque qu’il ne se casse, même si au fur et à mesure du développement de la plante il sera de plus en plus difficile de le plier. Nous pouvons continuer à guider la croissance des branches durant toute la culture, même durant la floraison, ce qui pour cette étape représente un grand avantage face à la taille, qui n’est pas du tout recommandé une fois que la formation des têtes commence, cela stressera en effet la plante, ce qui aura pour effet de retarder la récolte. Comment appliquer la technique de guidage LST Si nous sommes prudents, la flexibilité naturelle des fibres du cannabis permet de plier leur tronc et branches avec une relative facilitée, même durant la floraison des plantes. En utilisant une corde fine, nous pouvons accrocher la pointe de la plante à la base du pot par exemple ou à un tuteur que nous aurons planté dans le substrat. Nous plierons le tronc avec précaution et nous le fixerons avec la corde, à partir de là, nous pouvons augmenter progressivement la tension de la corde, chaque jour un peu plus, jusqu’à obtenir la position souhaitée. Soyez attentif à la réaction de la plante, essayez de ne pas appliquer trop de pression sur la corde et rappelez-vous que la flexibilité des branches peut varier d’une plante à l’autre. Pour obtenir de meilleurs résultats, il suffit de suivre quelques règles simples. Pour commencer, nous devons choisir une corde fine mais pas trop pour ne pas blesser les troncs au fur et à mesure qu’ils grandissent et qu’ils deviennent plus gros. Nous pouvons utiliser des crochets en plastique souple ou de n’importe quelle autre matière flexible pour éviter d’endommager les plantes. Spécialement en intérieur, utiliser des cordons en plastique de couleur (voir les diaries de @Silky) est très pratique pour voir facilement les accroches et faciliter le travail au milieu du réseau formés par les cordes, les tuteurs, les mailles ou les supports que nous aurons dans la culture. Bien entendu, en culture extérieure et surtout en guerilla nous ferons juste le contraire et nous utiliserons des matériaux de couleur qui n’attirent pas l’attention pour que notre jardin reste discret. Pour stresser les plantes au minimum, la mieux est de réaliser ces manipulations le soir ou juste après que les lampes en intérieur s’éteignent, ce qui leur permettra de se remettre durant la nuit. Normalement, le jour suivant nous pourrons observer comme les pointes des branches que nous avons pliées se dressent de nouveau vers le haut à la recherche d’une source de lumière. Que la force soit avec vous💪

Nun geht immer mehr mit den Buds doch leider wirkt auch der Mangel immer noch stark auf sie ein. Ich versuche weiterhin die Versorgung mit Komposttee zu gewährleisten.

Day 57 Update: Plants got water yesterday with tiger bloom. First few orange pistils noticed last night, not very many yet. Yellowing is predominately in the fan leaves so maybe that is normal? Things are about to get crowded in the tent as the other three plants are starting to get big. Day 58 Update: I read up on cal-mag deficiencies. As it's my first grow, I can't know for sure how heavy/light-handed I've been with nutrients, but it feels like I've erred on the side of less is more. The "bar graph" thing is not accurate for what I've done feeding-wise. Either way, I can't image there's any actual deficiency but more likely a pH issue causing problems with magnesium uptake. I'm not too sure how accurate the 3-in-1 pH/Light/Moisture meter is, but the pH reads close to 8 in every insertion location. I'm going to order pH down, but was reading about lemon juice as a SHORT TERM fix to lower pH. Two significant issues were inevitable with this grow: 1) traveling and leaving it unattended for a week & 2) using soil that other plants were grown in. Knowing how much these two issues caused me, my future grows will honestly be way better for it. Notably how to handle extended time away as well as consistently testing pH/soil. Depending on how serious I get with this, I'd invest in more precise measurement tools, but not yet. Obviously I want big yields, but I wasn't expecting to get pounds, so I'm okay with learning how issues affect yield. My other grow is actually a really interesting study in how different stresses affect plants, but I digress. Point is, I know there are problems, I'm trying to learn to fix them, but if things go totally pear shaped, I'm not going to be too disappointed. Day 59 Update: Working on lowering the pH that feels more like the cause of deficiencies than underfeeding. In another diary I read, the grower used lemon juice in dechlorinated tap consistently in each feeding without nutrients to control pH. That's my plan until Monday when the GH ph Up/Down will be delivered. One of my plants in my other grow has pretty obvious signs of necrosis on some leaves, but it doesn't seem to be spreading. I'm pretty sure I've had wonky pH levels since I went out of town and I never got those fixed so now I'm dealing with it. Having never grown any cannabis before, but also expecting some purple in the plant, the purple/reddish hues some of the leaves initially developed seemed more normal than I should have realized. Trial by fire!! Day 60 Update: So, thinking it was a pH issue causing uptake irregularities. Many of the yellow/reddish leaves have the FEEL of a healthier leaf even if they’re still discolored. Many fan leaves fell off with minor contact/pulling. I used lemon juice last night to flush with water in the 6.0 pH range and health may be returning. I’m not going to say it’s fixed, but the damage is hopefully contained for the time being. Pics and video show damages pretty well. Knowing it may creep back up, I'll keep feeding with closer to 6.0 pH water until pH Up/Down arrives and I can re-flush for the last week or two. Day 61 Update: Nothing new to report. Feels healthier than a few days ago still, but the countermeasures deployed seem to be holding for now. Buds seem to be filling out, I’m content for the night. Day 62 Update: Water and nutrients, maybe for the last time, tonight. New soil pH meter from Home Depot is hopefully more accurate. All water was pH'd to around 6 as the soil meter showed slightly alkaline still. I'm doing the best I can to keep this under control for another week, two at the most. I also got some soil acidifier amendments for the other plants because the readings were slightly alkaline for those pots. Day 63 Update: Got a set of mobile camera lenses to take macro photos of the trichomes. Its a work in progress. Otherwise, things seem okay today. Gonna press on keeping an eye on pH, but whatever shall be, shall be.

This is the first day of the first week of flower in the first video and the 6th day of flower in the second video.. you can see me shit myself when I saw that one of my main top sights snapped from tying the branch down … the lights were using are lights we designed and are testing at the moment also we are trying to keep a good distance between the tops and the lights to keep the temps down around the bud sites ! You can tell there are a couple other strains thrown in there the one purple punch from Barney’s farm is just Caking on nodes upon nodes like it’s impossible to get light to them unless they are pulled down in really liking the structure of the ocean fruit and am looking forwards to the finish!

She is looking beautiful and smelling up the place, lol, she is pretty much finished will be harvesting her in the next week when am free, I'll try to not miss that Windows because I like that sticky sticky hate when you pick late and the resin turn like dry kief lol.

Jungle is growing on top of my washing machine! On the last day of week 6 I lowered lights to 35cm from canopy, this week I’m going to monitor that number and adjust as necessary because the plant is still in stretching + bud setting phase. I’m feeding with high N+mag and I’ll continue until growth slows down, than I’ll switch to megacrop 2parts. I expect that to happen end of this week, 10 days max. Day 42 - changed the fan Day 44 - finally installed the blumat auto irrigation system. It wasn’t that easy since branches are really near the substrate but at least I had the carrot already placed so I was able to do it. High frequency fertigation on coco is a must, you can’t take advantage on coco great qualities watering 1 or 2 times a day. My system has 5 drippers placed in a Pac-Man shape, more or less. Day 45 - This is an important day since it marks the halfway point of this crop, based on my previous results. Coincidentally I’ve also spotted few small trichomes on a leaf, I guess the plant is now ready to build up mass and flavors. I did a minor defoliation to open up the inner canopy and to get rid of some plant’s nitrogen reserve. I prepared 20L of my bloom solution and mixed that with the veg solution in the reservoir. For a week I’m going to use this transitional feeding. Lots of sulfur, seems to be on a volcano 🤣 Day 46 - spotted a minor P deficiency. There is probably too much calcium in my solution that is antagonizing P absorption. I mixed another batch, this is the ppm breakdown N 100 P 100 K 280 Mg 85 Ca 150 Before I had P 40 and Ca ~190, my tap water has 80ppm of Ca that is already counted it. I’ll keep this value for a couple of weeks than I’ll lower everything except K. (Edit from the future - K is too high) Day 47 - plant looks happy and bigger, it drunk 3+ liters yesterday. There is no need for humidifier anymore so I’m getting rid of it. Temperature is 30-32C with 50-60% humidity. Day 48 - buds are swelling, some branches are already showing the spiral structure. Plant drunk 5 liters yesterday, impressive.

Finally, she has come to a finish with the three ladies coming out to a total of 60.8G. I would say I'm slightly proud of this grow, if only it weren't for the hiccup I had during mid flower. The buds are a little airier than I like, however she smokes like a charm and I would definitely recommend this strain to anyone looking for a high CBD dominant strain. Thanks for all the support this run; seeing as it was my first attempt to hydro it is very much appreciated! Til' next time

Week of fade 😎 Entering the last couple weeks of their lifecycle they’re fading, getting colorful and fat! Smell is insane, keeping temps low now to preserve terpenes and reduce salt build up due to high vpd. Checking trichomes every 2-3 days, aiming for 10-20% amber for my harvest. Stay tuned!

Day 42 Shes got some buds coming in but barely any growth points so im not expecting much from her.

This is the before picture of when i went on vacation for a week to what I came back to. Needless to say I was ecstatic! My very first buds grown all by myself! I am germinating a 4th plant be this week as I had an 0/3 on germinating Gorilla Cookies from Herbies. I'm starting to grow 1 more Amnesia Haze in the tent this week as well.

Day 77 from seed! Been removing the occasional leaf that's blocking bud-sites, or that's looking at me funny! ;) She's been getting fed 2.5 gallons dosage of the above listed nutes, every 4 days (when the soil is 90% dry again). Next week(tomorrow) I will be adding "GH dry Koolbloom" to the nutes at a concentration of 1.25 grams/gallon.

Day 28 Looking Healthy for a Triploid, Hope that she will grow bigger :)

How RQS Compares to Your Standouts Brothers Grimm (your "otherworldly" stars: Montel Iced Tea, Body Count, Bubbles Blueberry F4, Ricky’s Hash Plant, Black Tangi Tea) These are landrace-influenced, heirloom-style genetics with exceptional resin, unique flavors, and structure. They outperform RQS in quality, potency, and "wow" factor in your tents. RQS tends to be more commercial/hybridized for ease and yield, while Brothers Grimm prioritizes distinctive traits and consistency in experienced hands. Humboldt Seed Company autos (your top autos for resin, especially OG Triploid) Humboldt focuses on West Coast legacy genetics with heavy resin production. Clearly superior to RQS autos in trichome density and overall quality. RQS autos are faster and easier for beginners but often lack the resin "frost" and depth you get from Humboldt. Fast Buds (fast, flavorful, reliable autos — you like them a lot) Excellent speed and flavor profiles. You noted they're in a "different class" — fair point. Fast Buds emphasizes quick cycles and modern hybrids with nice terps, while RQS autos can feel more generic or require more coaxing. Quick Thoughts on Your Observations Brothers Grimm (Montel Iced Tea, Bubbles Blueberry F4, etc.): These are clearly the stars in your current setup. The strong smell, unique leaf morphology, and overall vigor in small pots show they're expressing well under your conditions. They reward careful growing with quality that feels special — resin, flavor complexity, and effects that fit your low-dose, functional style better than most commercial lines. Your homemade cross (Gelato 44 × Bubbles Blueberry F4 pollen = "Blueberry Knockout"): Nice work on your first intentional cross-pollination! Getting viable seeds and decent plants from a garage-level cross is a real win. It’s not "pretend breeding" — it’s exactly how many great lines started. The fact that it turned out "pretty nice" is encouraging. However, as you noted, combining a Royal Queen Seeds Gelato 44 (solid but commercial) with Brothers Grimm Bubbles Blueberry F4 (higher-quality, more unique genetics) creates a hybrid that can show the best of both, but also some inconsistency. If the RQS side brings easier growth but less depth, while the Brothers Grimm side brings the special traits, the offspring can be hit-or-miss depending on which phenos you kept. RQS Gelato 44 / Mike Tyson 2.0 vs. Brothers Grimm: Your experience matches what many growers report. RQS lines are generally more "user-friendly" and higher-yielding for beginners or volume grows, but they often lack the resin density, terpene complexity, and unique expressions you get from Brothers Grimm. The Tyson 2.0 collaboration added hype, but in your tents it landed at 7/10 while Brothers Grimm hit "otherworldly." That gap in quality is why you're leaning toward sticking with the professional, boutique genetics going forward. 3/30 11:17PM Gelato 44 & Punch Pie were nice right off the tree the little buds put me right to sleep last night!! The Autos are 7-10 but the Photos are 8/10