For this batch we have 23 zkittlez clones vegg for 8 days (1 gallon bags) 1 zkittlez vegg for 6 weeks (1 gallon bags)

Semana del 12 al 18 de enero 2026

Black Strap and Peach Crescendo getting close. I see they will get cut way before the Fat Bastard. Fat Bastard must have a long flowering period. But branch structure is thick. I will get a heavy yield from it. Peach Crescendo has so much frost on it. Ethos fkn rocks! Black Strap smells like baked cookies and gas.

The plant is doing very well is filling up with flowers everywhere and it has a fruity skunky smell to it very nice I can't wait to see it fully developed . For now not much to talk about her except that she's doing pretty good developing good and very fast thank you for reading I will continue to update have a happy grow

Combined the cop of water and paper towel method then planted the sprouts in root root cubes

*Week 5 Flower 09/24* Thus far both both plants are flowering and budding nicely, Trichomes are setting in accordingly, Increase in Phosphate and Potassium nute feeds. Both plants have appeared to stop growing in height settling in at 48Inches. Top COLAS are pretty dense and the aroma coming off both of them is bright and vibrant White Hairs are starting to turn bright orange. *Week 5 Flower Mid week update - 09/28* Both plants have reached max height (48 Inches) Bud sites are filling up and have become more dense with trichomes cover through the flowered bud. 60% orange hair coverage - Nearing harvest *Week 5 Flower End week recap 09/30* Both Apple Fritter and Critical+2.0 nearing harvest Cutting back on nute feeds starting tomorrow and will increase clean water feeds Flushing will begin in a week - both will be harvested in 2 weeks.

So I was really happy to have the opportunity to grow this strain I have my clones are ready My next grow will be sour headband and GDP they are all in veg

From seed to leaf. 27.07.2023 22:00 - drop in glass of water 28.07.2023 13:00 - placed in container 30.07.2023 12:00 - transplanted in soil 31.07.2023 16:00 - first leaves. It took less than 91 hours from seed to leaf.

Everything is going great! On the 48th day of vegetation, we switched the light cycle to 12/12, and for the second week now, our beautiful Golden Sands - 1 has started flowering. She’s been growing rapidly and noticeably increasing in height. We continue to feed her with fertilizers from Xpert Nutrients, and the results are impressive. A huge thank you to Xpert Nutrients for their high-quality fertilizer, which is not only effective but also very easy to use. With such a reliable product, we’re confident that everything will turn out perfectly!

🌸🍏✨🍭🌸🍏✨🍭🌸🍏✨🍭🌸 Hi and welcome to another Kannabia grow! This time I’m running their Apple Fritter (feminized photoperiod). She’s going to veg under 24hr light and be manifolded. Still cleaning the rest of my Candy Cream GF (11.04.25) — going to sow the seed tomorrow (12.04.25) *been lazy, sowed on 14.04.25 🌸🍏✨🍭🌸🍏✨🍭🌸🍏✨🍭🌸 --- 💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭 ❗Events & thoughts worth noting❗ 💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭 12.04.25 (GW1) – Cleaning + flushing the old coco coir. Might need to add another brick. *No new brick needed ✅ This is how I recycle my coco coir — fast, cheap, no BS. 🌿 Harvest plant ✂️ Chop roots small — they stay in for structure (organic perlite) 💦 Hot water rinse — remove salts & dust 🍶 Pre-soak with light feed:   Micro 10ml   Bloom 0ml   GreenBuzz 10ml   Cal-Mag 60ml   FFJ/FPJ 10ml (new disgusting batch)   pH down (citric acid) ♻️ Media stays — Roots stay — Back in service. 14.04.25 (GW1) – Planted seed in final pot ✅ 16.04.25 (GW1) – Did last tent clean up + setup ✅📸 17.04.25 (GW1) – Seed germinated 🎉📸 — roughly 48hrs in final pot. Solid start👌♥️ 23.04.25 (VW1) – Minimal burnt tips 📸 — not progressing, not a concern. 26.04.25 (VW1) – Started using the new batch of FPJ/FFJ https://growdiaries.com/diaries/266849-grow-journal-by-yan402 30.04.25 (VW2) – Increased TriPartMicro & GreenBuzzBloom 10ml → 15ml 03.05.25 (VW2) – Increased TriPartMicro again 15ml → 20ml, topped the plant, and added final layer of clay pebbles around the base, trimmed side branches and did LST in preparation for "manifold" 📸 08.05.25 VW3 finished manifold📸 13.05.25 VW4 Increased TriPartMicro to 30ml and GreenBuzzBloom to 20ml. 15.05.25 VW4 Done defoliation and LST 📸 18-19.05.25 VW5 pruned all the shoots bellow my "mains" and did a full defoliation📸 24.05.25 VW6 increased GreenBuzzBloom to 30ml 04.06.25 VW7 did a cleanup📸 11.06.25 VW8 increase TriPartMicro to 40ml 17.06.25 (VW9) – Final structure pass 💈🌿 Did a clean perimeter prune + removed weak shoots. Ended up with 12 tops, was aiming for less, but she made the call Didn’t fight it, just shaped it the best I could Airflow’s good, structure’s stable 🛑 No more cuts until post-stretch Pics coming shortly 😘 Flip coming soon — we’ll see how she handles it. 20.06.25 VW9 Switched lighting to 12 hours, may the stretch begin 🤞 22.06.25 VW10 Did a good LST session,made some pics, and came to some conclusions and a small change of plans: Originally planned for 8 mains — long, spaced colas and maybe a couple stronger “titans” if she wanted to go that way. But she’s showing me something else, and I’m not here to fight her — just guide her. Now after stretch, I’m keeping side shoots only if they: Fill real canopy gaps Don’t crowd neighboring tops (minimum 15cm spacing) Aren’t growing into walls or toward the next plant Anything too close, too low, or heading into shade gets removed. No point forcing it. Looks like I’ll finish with 14–16 solid tops, depending on how she settles. I’m just trying to give each one enough light and space to stack properly. No overcrowding, no larf — just letting her do her thing with a bit of structure. Increased Tri Part Micro to 50ml as well. 28.06.25 VW11 one week since I flipped to 12/12 and she is stretching nicely, a bit shy in showing pistils compared to the Fantasy Feast regulars I have in the same tent. 29.06.25 VW11 increased GreenBuzzBloom 30→ 60ml 06.07.25 FW1 TriPart Micro: 50→ 30ml TriPart Bloom: 0 → 20ml Home-made FFJ/FPJ (Watermelon + Pumpkin): 10 → 30ml 12.07.25 FW1 GreenBuzzBloom 60 →40ml, TriPart Bloom: 20 → 60ml, fpj 30→60ml 19.07.25 FW3 Got some bleached tops, been out and about at job interviews and didn't notice a last minute stretch spurt 😭, should recover fine though plenty of time left 😁 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 🌿 Day to day tasks & actions 🌿 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 19.07.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff (*RUNOFF reused for tomato plants) 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 Nutrients in 30L #1 – Week 11 Veg 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 TriPart Micro: 10 → 15 → 20 → 30 → 40 → 50ml → 30ml (1.00ml/L) 🍶 TriPart Grow: 0ml (0.00ml/L) 💧 TriPart Bloom: 0 → 20 → 60ml (2.00ml/L) 🍶 GreenBuzz Bloom: 10 → 15 → 20 → 30 → 60→40ml (1.33ml/L) 💧 Cal-Mag: 60ml (2.00ml/L) 🍶 Home-made FFJ/FPJ (new batch): 10ml → 30→60ml (2.00ml/L) 💧 pH Down: Citric acid (buxXtrade) 📦 TOTAL: 250ml per 30L 🔬 8.33ml/L 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 ⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ ✂️ Tools & equipment ✂️ ⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ ✂️ 2× MarsHydro SP3000 ⚙️ MarsHydro 150mm ACF Ventilator ✂️ Trotec dehumidifier (big unit) ⚙️ Mini no-name dehumidifier ✂️ Kebab skewers (LST – stainless) ⚙️ Wire + roast skewers (LST assist) ✂️ Scissors (HST) ⚙️ Vacuum (for spills & cleanup) ✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ --- 🍏🍪🌬️🍬🍏🍪🌬️🍬🍏🍪🌬️🍬 Apple Fritter (Kannabia Seeds) 🍏🍪🌬️🍬🍏🍪🌬️🍬🍏🍪🌬️🍬 Species: 50% Indica / 50% Sativa Genetics: Sour Apple × Animal Cookies THC: Up to 25% Effect: Euphoric, relaxing, creative Flavor: Sweet, fruity, pastry notes Flowering: 56–63 days Resistance: High Indoor yield: 450–500g/m² Outdoor yield: 600g/plant Structure: Strong, bushy, dense buds

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

🍀06/07 - Empieza su sexta semana en etapa de floración. 🍀Se encuentra perfecta, se desarrollo muy rapido. 🍀Se encuentra llena de tricomas por todos lados, es increíble lo nevada que esta. 🍀En tres semanas aprox ya tengo pensando podarla, por el momento viene todo bien. 🍀Algunas hojas que se encuentran abajo de toda la planta se encuentran un poco amarillas, eso es porque tuve q cambiar de lado los paneles de led porque creció demasiado alto, los próximos cultivos voy a estar usando la red de scrog. 🍀En estos dias seguire subiendo imaganes de como se encuentra. 🍀😶‍🌫️🇦🇷Podes seguirme en Insta gram como @bruweed_arg🍀😶‍🌫️🇦🇷

This thing has a great smell to it I can’t explain the smell best I can say is candy but like it’s a candy in a wrapper smell if you get me already sticky

The cones have learned to be quite dense. The aroma can be considered strong. I liked how they grow.

On day 15 I gave her 33cl compared to 25cl/3days as usual. Also expand her surface of watering like that she can make some flat roots. On day 18, 4th and last feeding on this dosage. As for now, the idea's to wait before starting train.