Flush week

Plant freshly cropped smells very gassy, big trichomes I will post the harvest once dried✌️

Love how these are looking. Did defoliation and have also fed cal/mag, recharge, and epsom salt.

These all seem happy enough to say i let them dry out and wilt yesterday.. my fan controller has been acting up too so they were sat at 99% humidity for a day then at 45%.. think I’ve got the humidity settled at 65% now. All photos taken on the last day of veg, tonight will the the first 12hours of darkness for these ladies

.se acabaron los nutrientes pero se notó muchísimo la diferencia 💯

Big time weight

Ladies looking really good 😎👌🏻💚🙏🏻 they are in two different tents but all from the same beans rdy to chop of at any time ! dense flowers strong smell !

Start of week 9, she’s funky and sticky. Sweet pungent gas. She’s the slowest in the tent but should but cutting down around day 70.

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Have fun with the update. Flowering day 54 since time change to 12/12. Hey everyone ☺️. We are slowly getting closer to the harvest 😍. You can see that the lady sucks all her energy out of the leaves and passes it on to the flowers. The buds smell very tasty 😍. It should be ready to harvest in the next 17 - 25 days. But of course we will be observing this closely with the microscope from next week. Otherwise the tent was cleaned as usual and the humidifier refilled. I wish you a lot of fun with the update. Stay healthy and let it grow 🙏🏻 You can buy this Strain at : https://www.zamnesia.com/de/5165-zamnesia-seeds-kalini-asia-feminisiert.html Type: Kalini Asia ☝️🏼 Genetics: Black Domina x Purple Kush 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

Bugs 🐜 hav been problem and will get worse before better

During my previous grow, I harvested and made some bubble hash. Afterward, I dropped the used, wet buds onto this coco, and it seems some seeds sprouted from the leftover material. I’m not even sure if they’re photoperiod or autoflower, but hey—let's roll with it! Both my pH meter and PPM meter are broken. I have no idea why they keep breaking so often. They’re ADWA meters, and while you can replace the reading elements, the replacements cost half the price of a new meter. It’s frustrating, and I really don’t want to keep buying them every time I start a new grow

Welcome to 📅 Day 22 of veg 4/5/2021 she is finally stretching out a bit and is almost at the trellis she is growing happy and healthy and that makes me happy lol. I'm hoping that in the next 2 days she is through the net and LST has started... 🤞

- Day 70 Checked the trichomes today, there's a lot more cloudy ones, still a lot of clear ones as well though. But definitely getting close to harvest now. DIdn't need to water her today as the pot was still heavy, but I will start to flush tomorrow with just plain pH'd water. Day 71 Just gave 3 liters water today of plain pH'd water. The smell of the plant has become A LOT stronger suddenly.

10/10 would grow again.

Hey folks, I'm finally back at it again. It took me a while for a couple of reasons: 1) I usually only grow in the winter. 2) I completely revamped my grow room after the issues I ran into with the last setup. 3) It took me a while to brainstorm exactly what I wanted to do. I bought these seeds from D.C. Seeds and was very pleased with the experience. I'm very happy to give business to a fellow American and Veteran. I've only ever purchased seeds from the UK in the past and that experience has been "dodgy" to say the least (not the vendors fault, but the transit). I've only ever grown photo's, but chose to go with all auto's moving forward. After calculating the intensity of my current light, with it being on a 20/4 rotation I'm very close to hitting 40 moles per day, at least directly under the light. It doesn't quite cover my 2' x 5' trellis. I'll eventually upgrade my light, but auto's should get me the best bang for my buck with this light. Also, I spent a pretty penny building this new grow room. The other obvious reason for growing auto's is their shorter seed to harvest time. I've got a small grow area, and never plan on expanding. Theoretically, auto's will allow me to produce the most out of my room. A few things about my grow room: 1) I lined the whole closet with 1/2" plywood and put that piece of ply the air intake/outtake/power as the divider between each side of the closet 2) The grow room itself has ply on all wall surfaces so I could mount stuff to it and paint it 3) The other side of the closet is my storage/prep/power distribution/etc. area. Maybe I'll take a pic one of these days 4) My last grow my carbon filter/fan was venting into the other side of the closet. This created a headache for a number of reasons. I tapped a 4" hole through the floor and am now venting into my crawl space below the house. 5) I moved to bubbleponics to speed up my grows even more. I will be removing the drip system once the roots hit the water in the res. 6) The larger res. will hopefully make my life much easier. Late in the last grow I could only fit 3 gallons of water in the bucket and that sucker was pounding down at least a gallon a day. That required too much micro-managing for me (both ph and refills). 7) I no longer have a fixed trellis with chicken wire. The trellis is held in place by dowels that I can pull out by hand. The short sides of the trellis have hinges on the bottom, so I can fold it and pull it out easy-mode. Lastly, I'll be using string for the trellis so come harvest all I have to do is cut the string instead of dealing with trying not to destroy buds pulling them through chicken wire (it takes forever). 8) I built a light diffuser on the other side of the air intake 9) My res. is on a motorcycle lift I'm using a drill to move up and down I have now started using Jack's as my primary nutes. They tell you the full break-down of each macro and micro nute, giving me more control and understanding. I think House & Garden is a good product, but when stuff goes bad it's more difficult to troubleshoot when you have no idea what each piece of their full lineup contains. I'm assuming it's kind of a proprietary type thing, which I understand, but knowledge is power. I am still using their Drip Clean (while the bubbler is going) and Roots Excelurator Silver, both excellent products. I'm still using Hydroguard, and will FOREVER. I'm a true believer now of why Hydroguard is necessary for any hydro application, IMO. I also purchased water soluble fulvic acid, but have decided not to use it for this grow....or at least while the bubbler is going (I'll elaborate below). Ok...now that all that is out of the way.... I really wanted to use my well water instead of R/O to make my life easier. Soooo....I filled up my res., and put two seeds in the system immediately. Nothing happened after 1 1/2 weeks. I finally opened up the cubes and saw that the beans had popped, but it looked like maybe I drowned them, or they ddin't grow straight up or something. For round two, I didn't change the water out, and decided to soak the beans for 24 hours in R/O water first. I had the exact same problem. I'm still not really sure what happend, but I suspect it was the well water. My PPMs were sitting at ~500 with the well water, which was probably too spicy for the beans just starting. Also, my well water is questionable (even though it's at 165ppm), but I won't elaborate further....it's a long ass story and I've spent an absurd amount of money on it. Lastly, I did put the Fulvic acid in, and it was very messy. I really want to avoid having to clean my res. Once the roots get big it will be a real pain in the ass to clean. I'm leaning towards not using the Fulvic acid this grow just to see how things go. I had 10 beans total of the Sour Apple and have already ruined 4. So here's hoping third times the charm. So, I went back to my tried and true method: 0) R/O water for everything. Ditching the well water idea. 1) Soak beans in R/O water for 24 hours 2) Paper towel method between plates on a heating mat 3) Once the roots pop, I place them pointed down in the hole of the rockwool cube 4) Hand water once a day by dipping the cube in the pre-mix of 1/4 strength Jack's and everything else I've listed above. This put my PPMs at 300...a way more reasonable value for starts. It's been exactly 7 days since I followed the above. It's probably hard to see but the cotyledons came up, and multiple roots have come out the bottom of the cubes....way faster than I've ever seen since I started growing. That means even though I'm doing my old process this already shaved at least a week off of when I'd normally put it in my bucket in the past.

All is rosey with this lady. No complaints. Defoliated and ready for flower. Not stretched as much as I would have expected but given its my first grow I'm unsure. A ton of tops with hairs showing everywhere. Can't wait to see this lady develop!

Week 10...The plants are looking good! Took out the microscope to look at the trichomes...Starting to get milky but still another week or two before the harvest! Started flushing the plant this week!

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂

From my first grow using a LED 300w light I bought of eBay I have moved on to a indoor tent for my second grow with a 600w HPS set up as I found that the LED light possibly due to its low build quiality was not producing enough light for the buds to reach there maximum potential. After a week from planting the seed I moved them from under the LED into the tent to let them do they’re thing.