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For most crops, a slightly acidic soil pH between 6.0 and 6.8 is ideal because it optimizes nutrient availability. When soil pH rises above 7.0 (alkaline), the concentration of hydrogen ions H+ drops significantly, and they are replaced by calcium, magnesium, or sodium ions on the clay colloid exchange sites. To naturally lower alkaline soil pH, you can add organic matter (carbon-rich materials), which produces weak organic acids as it decomposes. Maintaining this slightly acidic range stimulates a highly active, diverse microbial community; these microbes decompose organic matter and release carbon dioxide CO2, which plants absorb through their roots and leaves to boost photosynthesis and sugar production. Furthermore, the added organic carbon acts like a sponge, drastically improving the soil's water-holding capacity. While soil biological activity does involve cellular electron transport, electrical conductivity (EC) in soil is actually a measure of dissolved mineral salts, not a voltage carried by individual microbes. Soil microorganisms secrete organic acids and chelate metallic and non-metallic minerals, transforming locked-up inorganic compounds into bioavailable organic complexes. Unlike harsh synthetic fertilizers that can dehydrate soil life in high concentrations, these naturally chelated nutrients safely nourish the plant, creating a thriving, self-sustaining ecosystem where plants can efficiently synthesize their own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff.
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Growing's been good this week she transitioned to the outside very nicely very easily with little to no stress! She been super easy to this point
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@Dunk_Junk
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She's growing well this week. Her flowers are fattening up nicely! I was a bit worried that they will be airy not dense, but I was being too impetuous 😬😅
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@Fefa128
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Ok Growers! Check it out. Week one, you can tell it's a slow start due to the light that I have. Not much to say about this week, DONT WATER! unless you plant it's definitely asking for it.. try not to over water the firsts weeks. Again, they might be some Spanish in the videos 😅 let me know if something like this but in English would be good around here.
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@Jahrulez
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well jackyboys kinda giving me a hard time... except the mango cream all of the other gyals are 5x his size... i still beleve in him!! well se how that goes :D xDD
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@spyder
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Well...To Start I must say I Love the new Mars Hydro TSL2000 Complete Tent Kit, It has everything you need to do an indoor grow, all you will need is some grow medium and seeds...ready to go. I personally am adding an Inkbird ITC308 controller to maintain Temps, but not needed, just my personal preference... This is an awesome kit,, from the light and tent to the Exhaust Fan and Charcoal Filter to humidity/temp meter, Light Timer, Flex Pipe, to the cloth grow bags and everything in between...Truly Impressed.. This will be my Wife's New Tent, and it looks like it will be for Auto's, lets see how much abuse they can take ....lol * WSE Tangerine Dream Auto Flower Fem's * Mars Hydro TSL 2000 Led * Mars Hydro 2x4 Tent * Mars Hydro 4" exhaust Fan and Charcoal Filter * Inkbird ITC308 Temp Controller * 5gal. Cloth Pots * Small ceramic Heater * 4" internal circulation Fan * Diatomaceous Earth (food grade) She has done such a great job with Her first outdoor, (purple urkle) and then her indoor, (pinkman goo) she deserves this bigger better system....Stay Tuned.... Please Like and/or Follow the Diary, May all your grows be plentiful and trouble free.....
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A great week for her! Guarded by one of my cold blooded friends while I was away! I flushed her with water (PH 6) before I left her to her last few days under the bulb 💡😎 Was pleasantly surprised to see her complete upon my return so I have placed her in darkness for 48 hours before the Chop! I really want to thank all those that have helped me along the way with this one, it’s been very simple bar some toxicity issues at the beginning (all my fault 🙃) but it just goes to show with the right attention and attitude you can turn it around! I will be for sure doing another RQS northern, next time a 10 Gal container and more microbiology attention 🤓 what an absolute beauty she is. The fragrance is a mixture of pine and fruits, it’s really refreshing, the plant itself is sticky ICKY! 😍 See you all in the next few days once she’s been cut/weighed and hung! ✌️👊👍😎
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Plants are doing well. I'm going to top them soon. I tend to wait on topping to reduce stress, you never want to remove more that 1/3 of the plant( to each their own). I'll be FIMing the Sensi Star and Topping the Peyote. Pretty sure I stunted the White Widow from exposing it to the cold snap we had back in late February. I will top it and try and clone off the topping and see if that clone takes off. In my past I cloned plants outside in Mid June back in 2012 on 5 foot Agent Oranges, those clones caught up to the plants outside and eventually outperformed them, in less than two months. Never would have found that out if I didn't try. Happy growing everyone!
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@Kakui
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V4, están creciendo rápido, desde este punto empezaré con una EC de riego más alta 1.5~1.8, hace 3 días que aparecieron las primeras hojas verdaderas, por lo cual la etapa de vegetación ha iniciado. V6, el día anterior tuvieron un riego con pH 6.2 y EC 1.7, se me pasó el agua y quedaron algo tristes, pero ya se recuperaron hoy, todas las stash presentan puntos de decoloración en las primeras hojas, las cookies están en perfecto estado. Están comenzando a salir raíces por el fondo de los vasos(algo que nunca me había pasado con otras genéticas) además se ven muy gruesas las raíces, están pidiendo transplante ya, en unos días serán transplantadas.
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Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Flowering day 36 since time change to 12/12 h. Hi guys :-) The buds develop quite well on the mini plant :-). I gave her another 1 g of GHSC Bio Bloom during the last pouring added per l coco and 1 g enhancer. That is enough defensively until the end because I would rather fertilize the little lady less, even if she shows deficiencies. I am curious to see how the experiment will progress and I will keep you up to date :-) Stay healthy 🙏🏻 You can buy this Strain at : https://www.zamnesia.com/de/5165-zamnesia-seeds-kalini-asia-feminisiert.html Type: Kalini Asia ☝️🏼 Genetics: Black Domina x Purple Kush 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .
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@BettaN
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BD: End of week 9 of flowering - flushing
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So heres my germination method. Soak/shake seeds in 3% h202 solution for a few minutes and let sit until tiny bubbles form on seed coat. Rinsed in clean rain water. Then placed in HPO's GREEN-SUPREME used as seed soak solution. With a small amount of ANTI-MATTER for enzymes. Soaked 12hrs (mostly I just soak a few hrs) Straight into Gro-Dirt Super Starter soil. Watered seeds in gently with diluted DARK-MATTER solution to get the mycorrhizal species attached as soon as possible. Once they came up, 18-24hrs later, sprayed gently with a mix of GREEN-SUPREME & RHIZO-MOJO Just a small pinch of both in a 1ltr spray bottle. All this was done in a dark warm place on a heat mat. In a humidity dome.
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I probably should have flushed for all this last week of flowering or a bit more but didnt expected it to get ready for harvest that quick... I bought a microscope and it shows that all trichomes were milky and about a 10% amber, so only flushed at the last watering a few days before harvesting this beauty.
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@Ka_rY
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So Here we go,guys 🙂 3rd week is here and Im totally glad I hit these genetics. The girls are eating AF and I water them everytime I have the time 😀 They love it! so much! I bend them like real girls (you know waht I mean,vrrrrrrr) 😀 I had a little bit of mistakes : crash some new stems,but the others will have their power now,so..... Well : beast incoming!
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Leaves starting to brown. First thought was over fertilizing but guessing calcium. Did add powdered oyster shells to dirt mix but needing alot more.
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@AsNoriu
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Day 15 since seed touched soil. Ducks are very very very slow to develop. Maybe slowest strain i ever grew. Most look nitrogen overfed , dont want to grow at all ... Will be forced to leave them for one more week at home. Other strain goes out this friday . Autumn not far ... Not a big hope with this one ;))) Day 19. They went out !!! Hope summer is long .... Happy Growing !!!