Hola familia, os actualizo las green poison de sweetseeds una variedad bastante índica con una floración rápida. E sufrido una baja esta semana y fue de una green poison, todo lo demás salió adelante tan solo 1 no quiso tirar , amarilleo y acabó cayendo. Por lo demás esta todo fenomenal tienen un verde sano, solo hay que ver las fotos. . El ph esta en5,8 , la temperatura es óptima, en 22/24 grados de media, y la humedad la reduci un poco actualmente está entre el 60/70%. . AgroBeta: 0,8 ml x L Piramid , vía radicular. 0,6 ml x L Growth black line , vía radicular. 0,1 gr x L Cancerbero , vía radicular. 0,1 ml x L Tucán , vía radicular. 0,1 ml x L Flash Root , vía radicular. 0,4 ml x L Great Green , vía foliar. 0,05 ml x L Gold Joker, vía radicular. . Esto es todo, espero que os gusten estas green poison fumetillas buenos humos 💨💨💨

In addition to improving the chemical composition of plants, UV light also accelerates the germination process for seeds and helps prepare plants for higher light intensities. It acts as a natural stimulant for seeds, encouraging quicker sprouting and robust initial growth. Photosynthesis, as we all know, is the process where plants use sunlight, water, and carbon dioxide to create their own food. But here’s a little twist – UV light has been found to enhance this process. When plants are exposed to UV light, their chloroplasts (the tiny structures inside plant cells where photosynthesis occurs) work even more efficiently. This means they can produce more food for themselves! UV light triggers a response in plants by activating specific proteins and enzymes that optimize their photosynthetic processes. This translates into increased growth rates, improved nutrient absorption, and enhanced overall health. It’s like giving the plants a little extra boost to reach their full potential. For instance, when certain flowers are exposed to controlled amounts of UV light, they produce deeper and richer colors. Think of it as a form of “sun-kissed” enhancement! This deepening of color isn’t just about aesthetics; it also indicates improved biochemical processes within the plants.When plants are exposed to UVB light, it is now known something incredible happens—they begin producing vitamin D3 at an accelerated rate. UVB light exposure can lead to an increase in the production of vitamin D3 in plants. The optimal wavelength range for stimulating vitamin D3 synthesis in plants is around 290nm-310nm. Vitamin D3 is produced by UVB exposure of 7-dehydrocholesterol (provitamin D3) in the skin. The conversion to the pre-vitamin D happens by exposure to sunlight at 290–315 nm (UVB). Vitamin D3 is synthesized in the skin upon UVB exposure 290-315nm. The UVB exposure of provitamin D3 (7-dehydrocholesterol) in the skin breaks the B-ring to form previtamin D3, which undergoes thermally induced rearrangement to vitamin D3. Vitamin D3 is transported to the liver where it is hydroxylated at C-25 by the enzyme 25-hydroxylase producing 25OHD3, which is the major circulating form in vertebrates. The 25OHD3 is hydroxylated a second time at C-1 in the kidneys to the active metabolite. Magnesium is used in large quantities for the enzymatic process, which enables the plant to process vitamin D3. Increase magnesium accordingly.

So this week I have had to split the plants, one is really some way behind so I've managed to sweet talk the wife into letting me get another tent 😉 this plant may be behind but it's fucking massive compared to the others, plenty of decent bud sites so now she has all the space she needs. I have to feed her by hand now rather than the wilma but that's no real problem. Can't wait to see what next week brings already. If your running something similar or even if your not give me a follow and I'll follow you back ✌️🏻

Good week everyone. I started off with another top dress with 0-10-0 fruit bat guano. Yummy!! I saw lots of growth outward not upward because the stretch has almost stopped. This is a very fast growing strain with a strong smell. The smell is amazing. It's swell yet musky. I guess it's like a banana, hope the buds are like bananas also😀

Well I made a few upgrades since last week. First I went ahead and invested in a nice A/C unit. I also, improved the exhaust setup. I went ahead and took a plant out and germinated another ( I wanted to add a different strain. Lol). The ladies seem to be doing pretty well. They are all on their 4th or 5th node. I am waiting until the 6th node and then do thier first topping. Thanks for all the support! 😃😃😃

Day 8 15-11-23 Change the pot to 1 Gallons ( Peatmoss + Soil + Vermiculite + Perlite) / Water PH 6.4 + B-Start Vitamin B-1 + Chemrich Cal - Mag + SV Bio Trichoderma (450ppm) Day 11 18-11-23 Water PH 6.4 + Chemrich Hydroponic A + Chemrich Hydroponic B + Honey Chome + Emerald Goddess + B-Start Vitamin B-1 (560ppm) Day 12 19-11-23 Water PH 6.4 + Chemrich Silica (280ppm) Day 13 20-11-23 Water PH 6.4 + Chemrich Humic (290ppm) Day 14 21-11-23 Water PH 6.4 + Chemrich Amino Acid (370ppm)

Permanent Marker weed strain possesses the genetics for high anthocyanin production, which is responsible for its signature deep purple. While the genes are present, the expression of these colors is often enhanced by "thermal stress" (lower temperatures) during the final three weeks of flowering, which triggers the production of these pigments. 👋 Raising the Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio in the growing medium to avoid over-immobilizing nitrogen, on the flip side, being careful not to trigger early autophagy. Moderate, controlled increases in sugar support the energetic demands of flowering and act as a signal trigger, but excess sugar is more likely to inhibit flowering or damage the plant. Balance, like everything else. Visually, when the chloryphyll green gets darker, it is a subtle indicator that the concentration of nitrogen is increasing / more is being stored than is being used. I noticed when you push very high intensity lighting, it slowly fades the green as the plant degrades chloryphyll faster than it can be replenished. When the green of the leaf continually gets darker, it is an indication that the concentration levels of nitrogen are increasing, and I dont want to increase light intensity. Turn down the nitrogen faucet. C:N ratio dictates the rate at which nitrification occurs, if at all. The Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio acts as a critical biological "on/off switch" (or regulator) for nitrogen turnover by determining whether microbes immobilize (consume/tie up) or mineralize (release) nitrogen during the breakdown of organic matter. This ratio regulates microbial activity by defining the balance between available energy (carbon) and building materials (nitrogen). The C:N ratio in a medium acts as a critical regulator of nitrification, effectively functioning as an "on/off" switch for the dominance of either autotrophic nitrifying bacteria or heterotrophic bacteria. The shade of green in chlorophyll is subtly linked to the enzyme Rubisco through a co-evolutionary, functional relationship designed to optimize photosynthesis. Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light for energy, reflecting green light, a process that ensures the "light-dependent" reactions provide the correct, controlled amount of energy (ATP and NADPH) needed by Rubisco to perform its "light-independent" carbon fixation. Because Rubisco is a relatively inefficient and slow enzyme—often considered the bottleneck of photosynthesis—chlorophyll and the overall structure of the leaf have evolved to manage energy distribution to prevent overwhelming the Calvin cycle. While chlorophyll absorbs mainly red and blue light, it is not perfectly efficient, and leaves appear green because some green light is reflected or transmitted. This reflection allows light to penetrate deeper into the leaf, preventing the surface chloroplasts from becoming overloaded and enabling a more efficient distribution of energy to the high volume of Rubisco located throughout the leaf's mesophyll. The rate of chlorophyll-driven electron transport (light reactions) is matched to the potential rate of carbon fixation (Rubisco activity). If Rubisco were faster, leaves might be darker; however, the "shade of green" represents a balance that prevents chlorophyll from producing more energy than the inefficient Rubisco can process. The green color itself is a byproduct of a photosynthetic system tailored to feed a slow, yet crucial, enzyme (Rubisco) just enough energy to maximize carbon assimilation without inducing excessive oxidative stress or inefficiency. The shade of green in leaves is directly linked to the concentration of chlorophyll, which is in turn strongly correlated with the amount of Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) and, consequently, the rate of carbon fixation. Darker green leaves generally indicate a higher concentration of both chlorophyll and Rubisco, signifying greater capacity for photosynthesis. Increase output or reduce input. Subtle tells. While an excess of nitrogen (specifically ammonium) can cause an imbalance, nitrification—the microbial conversion of ammonia to nitrate—is highly sensitive to a variety of environmental, chemical, and physical factors. Because it depends on specific, slow-growing bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) and archaea, anything that stresses these organisms can disrupt the process.

Checkout my Instagram @smallbudz to see the Small budget grow setup for indoor use, low watt, low heat, low noise, step by step. 08/11/2019 - Showing early flower development? 09/11/2019 - Gave her 0.500 ml plain water PH 6.5, she's starting to need more water and also due to 30c temps. She's also showing light green around the leafs maybe slight magnesium deficiency. 10/11/2019 - Yellow leafs showing up really fast so I 'flushed' the medium with 1l of 6.4 PH plain water, watered until some run off start to showing, change the watering plan again, now I only water when the pot feels light and dry at the bottom. 13/11/2019 - Pot was really light and dry at the bottom so I gave her 1.5l of water with 0,75ml of Grow, 1,5ml of Bloom and 0.75ml of Max BioBizz PH 6.5 until some runoff started to appear I think was too much again : also added a work-supplement led strip light. 14/11/2019 - Leaves looking pale raise the light to 45cm instead of the recommended by manufacture 25-40cm.

8/10 Hurried morning. Today was water day and the hose fucked up. Dad got it working while I filled half the jugs needed with water and the requisite amount of plant doctor. I gave the preventative dose (which is 1/2 tsp per gallon but I upped it closer to 1 tsp per gallon) on the plants that have received the three full treatments, the 10th planet in the middle and the chemdog. The rest received their last full dose. I had watered the NATURAL mk ultra and other tenth planet yesterday so I'm waiting until tomorrow when the need water to give them their treatment. Other than the 10th planet I'm worried things are going pretty good. Tjat's probably tine too. I certainly wouldnt have even noticed it a few years ago. I only bought like half the amount of soil as last year and really tried keeping costs down. These aren't the biggest plants I've grown but I'm grateful for what I have. I'm working hard to get the most out of them I can. I'm planning to give it a few days and then feed later in the week. EDIT: I THINK I got my grow question deleted. Finally. It's strange that I didn't get ONE outdoor growers response. Doesn't matter. I figured out the best course of action. I'm lucky. Or maybe I just work hard. I defoliate twice a day. I have some pruning to do on the interior of a COUPLE plants. I've cleaned them up pretty good this year. No signs of ANY wpm which is great but suprisinging considering the rh and the rolling fog most mornings. 8/11 I gave the tenth planet in the back and the mk ultra I didn't get yesterday. The mk ultra got the preventative dose (upped from 1/2tsp to 1tsp) and the 10th planet tge full dose. I'll have to check but I think this is the last cure dose for everyone. Found a pillar INSIDE a bud on the special kush that's far ahead. Then you can see on the video a HUGE cut worm or something on the branch I pull down. Luckily I saw it. Wasn't there when I got back but it took a few bites. Looked on the camera and saw a bird swoop in and grab him. Thank the lord! It's going to be 100° today and tomorrow with heat advisory in effect. I'm going to have to treat these plants for pests/pillars some how. I might just use BT and my super alkaline water. The septoria is under control and I'm just afraid spraying anything would make things worse. I'm certainly jot going to let them eat my early flowering plant. I can't apply ANYTHING in this heat. I'll research and maybe if it gets low enough tonight I might be able to do something. I'm going to go back over and check that plant going branch by branch. That one 10th planet tgat WAS the biggest plant is severely stunted amd has some "strange" looking leaves. I wasthinking about getting it off property or just chopping and burning but I figure it's been in there long enough that the others could be infected. I think it spreads through pests if that's the case then it might be better to get rid of it. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I'm going to stop and try to get some mulch today. EDIT: I found a place I can get a bale of straw and I think I'll use that to mulch. It's almost a 100°. After killing the pillar this morning and missing that cutworm I came back over to REALLY look at the special kush in later flower. I looked through every branch and every bud. I found four pillars on that plant. No REAL damage yet and extremely small. I had to pull buds apart to find them. It's like they were hiding from the heat. That was miserable hand picking them in 100° degree weather. Luckily the bird feeders are close but the bigger birds chase the smaller ones. The smaller birds have found a new food source and perch on my cage waiting. I'm leaning towards treating the flowering plant with BT-k. Seeing that tge citric acid WON'T kill fungus I'll just use OUR super alkaline water and hope for the best. Nothing will get treated during this weather. 8/11 IT reached 105° yesterday and I had a family medical emergency. Came over this morning to several plants drooped right over despite me checking MD day and them being fine. Phone dodnt charge so I couldn't get pictures. Watered everything but the ones that got it yesterday cause they looked good and still had weight. I had to leave before the ones that were down could pick back up. The kush plants seem to tolerate this heat much better. Beside the ones in the 10s tge others are taking this hear fine. I'll update when I get back.

BAM 💥 Exploding with buds, way nicer plants then on my first try with these gorillas. Even tho they are in the shadow of the ginormous green cracks, that have vegged for over a month longer, these baby’s are doing magnificent. Huge frosty buds that look like they are gonna get a whole lot bigger in the coming weeks.

Wächst toll, die Bedingungen passen nur nicht ganz. Weiterhin zu hohe Temperaturen und nachts hohe Luftfeuchtigkeit.

@1.5 kPa Smells extremely tasty 😋

6cm vertical growth this week but she threw out some nice side growth. Apologies for the timelapse, it starts halfway through the week and finish/start are in the middle of the week 😳

Ras ! Que du bonheur cette montée en l'espace d'une semaine ! Tout ce déroule bien !!! Pour rappel : Black Domina 0 (en pot) Black domina 1 Purple 2 Big Bud 3 Big Bug 4 Blzck Domina 5 Purple 6 Blzck Domina 7

The plants grew well this week, as did all the clones. Any extra rooted clones have been planted outdoors as a further experiment. We moved all the clones into a Veg room. Even though the large room is not in flower and still also in veg, we had to separate the plants due to lack of space. Also setting up for mother, clones and SOG in the future. The plants were defoliated and training continued. There are 2 weeks of Veg left hoping to have some very large plants for flowering. Aiming for large flowers.

In the beggining of week 4 of flower the phenos are showing differences. Nanaz x BBC are way toller that the Headbands. Also, Nanaz x BBC #2 has no pistils but it is a female plant. I have that happened before when I grew the Banana Butter Cups S1

Ya al día con las fotos. Empecé a fertilizar con vitamax pro. Las hojas laterales rotas con color marrón tienen quemadura por luz del led de apoyo, descarté sobrefertilización por que solo apareció en hojas superiores. La punta del cogollo central también se está quemando con luz por proximidad al led principal que lo tengo al máximo de altura.

Week 5 Everything looks good and frosty .. I’ll add the futur vert uv LED’s in a few days

experiment explantation see week1 No1 gelato auto gets each two days normal mixture of plagron sugar royal...alga grow...power buds...calmag...aptus all purpose and since end of this week alga bloom End of this week ppfd increased to 550-580