Pheno B Frosted Guava Auto By Zamnesia
🌿 Frosted Guava Auto by Zamnesia | Pheno B | Week 8 (Flower Week 5) 🌿 Small Plant. Big Personality. And Now… A Little Less Green. There are plants that follow the plan. And then there are plants that write their own story. Frosted Guava Pheno B has been doing the latter from the beginning. She has never been the biggest plant in the room. She hasn't chased height, hasn't tried to dominate the canopy, and hasn't demanded much intervention. Instead, she has quietly developed her own personality. Compact. Elegant. Beautifully structured. And increasingly covered in flowers. Now, entering her fifth week of flowering, she has reached another important moment in her journey. This week, she joined the group receiving a selective flowering defoliation. Not because she was struggling. Not because she was unhealthy. And certainly not because every plant needs to be defoliated. Quite the opposite. She was looking fantastic. But after looking carefully at her structure, her development, and the way light and airflow were moving through the plant, I felt that removing some unnecessary foliage was the right decision. So we went in. We cleaned her up. And now we're going to see what she does with the extra space. 🌸 Week 5 Flower – Her Own Story Frosted Guava Pheno B is currently around 108 cm tall. That still makes her one of the more compact plants in the room. But honestly? I don't think she cares. 😂 She has found her own architecture and she's sticking with it. The flowers continue developing beautifully, with increasingly visible frost and those characteristic white pistils reaching outward from the developing buds. Her foliage has remained lush and healthy, with that beautiful deep green colour we've been following since the beginning. The plant looks comfortable. The flowers are developing. And now we're starting to see more definition between the different parts of the plant. This is exactly the kind of moment where stepping back and looking at the whole plant becomes important. Because sometimes the question isn't: "Can I remove this leaf?" The better question is: "Does this leaf still have a useful job to do here?" And that's where this week's defoliation came from. ✂️ Defoliation – What We Actually Did This wasn't a complete strip. It wasn't a race to make the plant look naked. And it wasn't about removing leaves simply because they were large. The approach was selective. I removed most of the fan leaves carrying their own petioles, particularly where they were contributing to unnecessary shading or creating congestion inside the plant. I also cleaned the lower and interior portions of the plant where some flowering sites were positioned so far below the productive canopy that I didn't expect them to develop into meaningful flowers. Those areas are what I would consider the true bottoms on a compact plant like Frosted Guava. And that's an important distinction. Because this plant is small. Her lower sites really are lower. Even with the Lumiflora under-canopy lighting helping bring additional photons into the lower canopy, the primary productive zone of the plant remains higher up. So rather than allowing the plant to spend resources maintaining foliage and very low sites that are unlikely to contribute much, I decided to clean those areas selectively. But I didn't remove everything. Some lower flowering sites remain. I want to see what they can actually do. That's part of the experiment. 🌿 What Is Defoliation? For anyone new to growing: Defoliation is the intentional removal of selected leaves from a plant to alter the structure of the canopy. The goal isn't simply to have fewer leaves. The goal is to create a better balance between: light penetration + airflow + canopy structure + productive flowering sites. Leaves are extremely valuable. They're the plant's solar panels. So removing them should never be treated as something automatically beneficial. Every leaf removed is a piece of photosynthetic machinery removed. That's why I don't approach defoliation as: "Flower started. Time to strip the plant." Instead, I look at the plant in front of me. Is the canopy becoming too dense? Are leaves heavily shading developing flowers? Are there congested areas where airflow is poor? Are there leaves that are doing very little because they're buried underneath several layers of foliage? Are there lower sites that realistically have very little opportunity to develop? If the answer is yes, then selective defoliation can make sense. If the answer is no... Leave the plant alone. 🚫 What Defoliation Is NOT This is probably even more important. Defoliation is not: ❌ Removing every fan leaf ❌ Trying to expose every single flower to direct light ❌ A substitute for good plant structure ❌ A guaranteed way to increase yield ❌ Something every plant needs at the same time ❌ An excuse to strip a healthy plant simply because you can The objective isn't to make the plant look clean for the sake of appearance. The objective is to improve the functional canopy. And there's a big difference. A beautiful green leaf isn't a problem simply because it's a beautiful green leaf. If it's healthy, receiving light, contributing to photosynthesis and helping the plant, I have no reason to remove it. But when the canopy becomes crowded and certain leaves are contributing more obstruction than productivity, that's when selective removal becomes interesting. ✂️ How I Approach It My approach is simple: I observe first. I don't start with a predetermined number of leaves that must disappear. I start by looking at the structure. Then I work from the outside toward the interior and from the top toward the lower portions, looking for unnecessary congestion. Leaves that are heavily shading productive flowering sites can be candidates. Leaves buried underneath several other leaves can be candidates. Leaves occupying congested interior areas can be candidates. And lower growth that is so far beneath the productive canopy that it has little realistic opportunity to develop can also be considered. But I always keep the plant's overall health in mind. The goal is balance, not maximum removal. That's why Pheno B still has plenty of green. She's not naked. She's simply better organized. 💡 The Under-Canopy Question This is particularly interesting with Frosted Guava Pheno B because we're running Lumiflora under-canopy lighting. Someone might reasonably ask: "If you have light underneath, why remove the lower growth?" That's a very fair question. And the answer is that under-canopy lighting doesn't magically make every lower flower equal to a top flower. On a compact plant like this, the very lowest parts are still extremely low relative to the main productive canopy. The under-canopy lighting is helping reinforce the lower and interior areas, but I still want to observe where the plant naturally allocates its energy. That's why I deliberately left some lower flowering sites behind. I don't want to assume. I want to watch. Will those remaining lower sites develop? Will the extra light make a noticeable difference? Will the upper flowers continue dominating? That's exactly the kind of question this project allows us to explore. And the harvest will eventually give us the answer. ☀️ More Light Where It Matters The Future of Grow Black Series LED continues providing the primary light from above, with approximately 1,000 PPFD across the upper canopy. Frosted Guava may be compact, but she certainly isn't short on photons. She's been sitting underneath that light throughout flowering, converting those photons into leaves, flowers, structure and now increasingly visible resin. And with the selective defoliation, we're changing how some of those photons move through her architecture. We're not creating more photons. We're simply trying to make better use of the ones already available. That's the idea. Don't waste energy chasing light. Build a canopy where the available light can actually do its job. ❄️ And The Frost Is Getting Serious The name Frosted Guava continues becoming more appropriate every week. The flowers are developing beautifully, and the resin production is becoming increasingly visible. Those white pistils are still everywhere, creating an incredible contrast against the deep green foliage. And underneath all those hairs, the flowers are beginning to gain more structure and density. This is the stage where I love looking at the same plant from week to week. Because the change isn't always dramatic overnight. But compare the plant to where she was a few weeks ago... And suddenly you realize: She's building. She's filling out. She's gaining flower volume. She's becoming increasingly defined. She's becoming Frosted Guava. 🌿 Small Plant. Big Character. I've said this about her before, but this week makes it even more obvious. Frosted Guava Pheno B doesn't need to be the tallest plant in the room. She's already found something more interesting. Character. Her sister Pheno A has followed a different path. And that's one of the beautiful things about running phenotypes together. Same genetics. Same room. Same light. Same nutrition. Same philosophy. Different personalities. Pheno B has chosen to remain compact and elegant. And now, as flowering progresses, she's showing us exactly what that compact structure can become. 💧 Nutrition & Hand Watering We're continuing with hand watering throughout the room. Current feeding remains centered around the Plagron flowering program: Terra Bloom — 2.2 ml/L Power Buds — 1 ml/L Sugar Royal — 1 ml/L Green Sensation — 1 ml/L Lemon Kick — 0.03 ml/L Current recorded parameters are around: pH: 6.0 EC: approximately 2.0 mS/cm Solution temperature: 21°C Root-zone temperature: 21°C Watering: approximately 1.2 L per 24 hours Hand watering has also given me another opportunity to observe this plant closely. Every time I water her, I get another chance to look at the flowers, inspect the leaves, check the structure and notice those tiny changes that are easy to miss when everything is automated. It takes more work. But it also brings you closer to the plants. And sometimes that's where the best observations happen. 🌡️ Environment The room continues running under stable conditions: Day temperature: 29°C Night temperature: 25°C Relative humidity: approximately 72% Solution temperature: 21°C Root-zone temperature: 21°C CO₂: approximately 639 ppm With the canopy becoming increasingly dense, airflow and humidity management become even more important. That's another reason selective defoliation can be useful at this stage. Not because leaves are inherently bad. But because a dense flowering canopy can create small pockets where air movement becomes less effective. Opening selected areas gives the room a little more breathing space. And that's particularly valuable as the flowers continue developing. 🔭 Looking Ahead Now comes the interesting part. We've changed the architecture. We've removed some unnecessary foliage. We've cleaned the lower sections. We've opened some of the interior. And now... we wait and observe. I want to see how quickly she responds. I want to see how the flowers develop with the improved canopy structure. I want to see what happens to those lower sites we deliberately left behind. And most importantly, I want to see how Frosted Guava Pheno B continues writing her own story. Because she's already made one thing very clear: She doesn't need to follow anybody else's timetable. ❤️ Final Thoughts – Let Her Shine Frosted Guava Pheno B has been one of those plants that quietly earns your attention. She didn't arrive in the room demanding the spotlight. She didn't become the tallest. She didn't become the biggest. She simply kept growing. And week after week, she became more beautiful. Now she's entered another chapter. A little less foliage. A little more breathing room. A little more light moving through the canopy. And plenty of flowers left behind to show us what she's capable of. The important thing about this week's defoliation isn't how many leaves we removed. It's why we removed them. Because good cultivation isn't about following a recipe blindly. It's about looking at the plant in front of you and making decisions based on what she's actually telling you. And Frosted Guava Pheno B was telling me: "I'm ready." So we listened. Now let's see what she does. A huge thank you once again to Zamnesia for these beautiful genetics, Plagron for the nutrition, Future of Grow for the Black Series lighting, Lumiflora for helping illuminate the lower canopy, TrolMaster for environmental control and of course to everyone following this 8×8 Adventure on GrowDiaries. Every week, every phenotype tells us something different. And that's exactly why I love this project. Until next week... Let her shine. She has earned her spotlight. ✨🌿❄️ Growers love and happy growing! 🌱💚
Pineapple Kush RQS
Hey everyone ☺️. It gets more beautiful from week to week 😍👍. I have them all this week Sprayed again properly with neem oil in the veggie phase ☺️. There have been no trips for 2 weeks, but prevention is better 😀. Because of the neem oil, the plants look very dark and shiny, which I really like when they shimmer like that 😝. I didn't do any training these days, that will be done again the next few days 👌. it was watered twice this week with around 0.6 l per plant. The Ph / Ec measuring device was also recalibrated. Otherwise there is nothing to report for this week and we'll see you again with the next update ☺️👍. I wish you and your families a Merry Christmas 😊. Stay healthy and let it grow 🍀 You can buy this Strain at : https://www.royalqueenseeds.de/feminisierte-hanfsamen/220-pineapple-kush.html Type: Pineapple Kush ☝️🏼 Genetics: Pineapple x O.G. Kush 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Royal Queen Seeds Easy Boost Organic ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .
Gorilla Sherbet FV
Bryankush
@Bryankush
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Il fumo è liscio e abbastanza dolce e fruttato con aromi che ricordano uno sherbet di arancia, anche piuttosto denso.
Grand daddy purple and vanilla frosting
SCROGING is an amazing technique that I will get better at but this being my first real attempt I clearly see how important it is to get everything cleaned up under the net. I’m not touching anything now and I’ll just do better next time. Anyways my garden looks really good, and the buds look real good and my canopy is pretty even. I mean it’s 4 or 5 inches off and if I would have tucked one more time I could have got things a bit more even. The Grand daddy purples buds are definitely going to be lighter. The vanilla frostings buds are going to dense and thick. If I take what I’ve seen from the past couple harvests my light will really turn these buds into little dense monsters. The viperspectra PAR1200 is a good light and makes heavy dense buds. I highly recommend the PAR1200 for a 3 x 3 space. Happy 420! Update - I think I missed 1 week in my grow. Today’s the last day of week 4 and I gave the girls a little trim today and cleaned those big fan leaves off. What a difference a little trim makes! I took these new photos about 8 hours after their trim. All those buds sites that were being covered reached out and here’s a few pictures of what was underneath. Have a great weekend!
Blue Zushi - MicroGrow
Momentum
@Momentum
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Voll im Stretch. Ansonsten geht es ihnen gut, die Blüten sind deutlich zu sehen und sie haben ein sattes Grün. Die Co2 Bottle, die ich besorgt habe, kommt nicht zum Einsatz. Ich habe einen viel einfacheren Weg gefunden. Einfach bei geschossenem Fenster atmen 😄 Im Home Office komme ich bis 10Uhr auf meine 1500ppm und halte sie den ganzen Tag. Der Sensor war auf jeden Fall kein Fehlkauf.
"Did I do that"
m0use's Emerald Triangle Seeds - Black Berry OG CBD
m0use
@m0use
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***Sponsored Grow*** = Medic || https://medicgrow.com || Grow = ***Sponsored Grow*** This week was fun, realized I was giving my plants close to 60DLI vs 40DLI so I lowered the lights back down to 80% they should be within the range of 38-42DLI depending on specs, I lack a tools to monitor this in house so have to go off of specs and calculations I have from manufacture and other people who reviewed the lights online. main big one is 2.8 vs 2.2 effectivity on the diodes. Noted that the white dandruff coming out the runoff was indeed spring tails. looks like they have made a home in my medium and I don't care. must be eating all the dead shit. Still ph'ing my water up to combat the acidic whatever in the pots. maybe this is from the spring tails or bacteria in there. good thing is they eat mold and other nastiness in the soil. I do think I messed up quite a bit on this grow, I am hoping the next one will be better. First time using liquid feed vs dry soil amendments. This emerald triangle seeds plant is dong well it seems to loose its pistils asap and then just gets bulky, I did check for seeds and saw nothing or any nanners as my first guess was maybe its getting pollinated. growing progress. I keep getting different smells off of it depending on the day and the last time I watered. Will know its true profile when I can chop and cure. Guessing this will be about 2-4 weeks out. Till next week. ***Sponsored Grow*** Official Website: https://medicgrow.com/ + https://www.emeraldtriangleseeds.co.uk/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/medicgrowled + https://www.facebook.com/OriginalETS/ Twitter: https://twitter.com/medicgrow + https://twitter.com/emeraldseeds Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/medicgrow420/ + https://www.instagram.com/emeraldtriangleseeds/ YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNmiY4F9z94u-8eGj7R1CSQ Growdiaries: https://growdiaries.com/grower/medicgrowled https://growdiaries.com/grow-lights/medic-grow + https://growdiaries.com/grower/emeraldtriangleseeds https://growdiaries.com/seedbank/emerald-triangle-seeds
Seguimiento GBSTRAINS
Arrancamos la 4ÂŞ semana de floraciĂłn y venimos de hacer los 3 Ăşltimos riegos suaves con baja ec por que veo varias muy verdes, un color muy oscuro creo que algo pasadas. Esta semana ya seguimos con las dosis normales, ademĂĄs aĂąadiremos por ultima vez unas micorrizas para mejorar el sustrato. Ya he puesto las luces UV para emular al mĂĄximo la luz del sol y que la planta se sienta bien arropada.
StealthGrow box - Incredible HyGro - DWC
nanaboham
@nanaboham
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Humidity and temperature back under control for a while. Buds look a little lite so could be another month off. Will probably start flushing in 3/4weeks. Gonna add some overdrive too.
Montel tragic rise fall of Jar Jar Binks
CalGonJim
@CalGonJim
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1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂
4x8 Multi Strain
Space Cookies Auto
Bewässerung: 500 ml jeden 3 Tag in der Fünften Woche pH-Wert: 5,8 EC-Wert: 0,4 mS/cm Temperatur: 30ºC Luftfeuchtigkeit: 50% Schädlingsbekämpfung: im Moment haben wir keine Anzeichen von befall wir haben nur mal zur Prävention etwas Sand gegen die Schnecken um die Pflanze gemacht, dies verhindert das diese sich nähern. Wir haben aber auch Raubmilben ins spiel gebracht zur vorsorge gegen Spinnmilben und andere Schädlinge 😷 PPFD: Direktes Sonnenlicht DLI: Direktes Sonnenlicht Besonderheiten: Sind in kleinen Töpfe gepflanzt und werden diese Woche in den Boden gesetzt. -Tag 29 Heute wurde die Space Cookies #2 in den Boden Gesetzt und wurde mit Sand umrandet. Das dient dazu das sich keine Schnecken nähern, zusätzlich haben wir sie mit einem kleinen Zaun umrandet damit sie unser Tiger nicht gleich entlaubt😾, sonst sieht sie gesund aus. Ihre Schwester die Space Cookies #1 hat es leider nicht so weit geschafft und ist nun im Kompost bei der CBD Purple Kush. Da wir ja noch eine Weitere eingepflanzt haben die Space Cookies #3 gibt es vielleicht doch noch Hoffnung für den Contest 😉😜 -Tag 31 die Space Cookies #2 hat die Transplantation in den Boden gut überstanden. -Tag 32 jetzt scheint sie schnell an höhe zu gewinnen, es wurde auch langsam zeit. Sie hat heute auch wieder Wasser mit Jauche bekommen. -Tag 33 Mann sieht ein deutlich das die Trainierten Pflanzen besser wachsen und mehr Triebe Bilden auch wenn viele das Gegenteil behaupten. Sie wurde Heute wieder gegossen und mit LST Trainiert. -Tag 34 sie sieht soweit gut aus.
Auto Orange Bud
Day 17 All good, big and healthy Day 19 Her leaves are the largest and are touching the soil. I'm hoping her height catches up to her width Day 21 Her main stem is really thick and I think she is struggling a bit with the weight of her leaves
Guava Run
xipo86
@xipo86
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Day 63 Got a new toy wich is a self watering system... they drink a lot and i can't be spending so much time on feeding.. when the tent is open.. a wave of terpens hits you like a rock... so fruty.. with lemonine terpens...
shorts_status_processing
The Ides of July - FF:11
HisHope
@HisHope
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9/28 Week 11 and Beginning Flush No nuets Look for 7-10 days till harvest 9/30 Ambering very well and the tricones look like a ski resort. On track for harvest at week mark 10/4 Hero to be harvested Monday Bea will be longer
24k Gold - DNA Genetics
DrGanj
@DrGanj
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Standard week. starting to swell. No issues really. Wish this girl smelled more. My Bakers delight grow has set the bar high and I think this will be just an average pheno. Probably grow this strain from seed again next run unless she gets her dank on. Defoliating heavy around the tops to keep main canopy below strip level. Aim is for even light on every single bud site, or as much as possible
Silver Fox / 2 Monsters occupied my balcony
Die BlĂźten werden schĂśn schwer und bunt. Das Wetter stellt sie auf die Probe und fordert Opfer.
Vaccine
All love so far girls are beginning to fatten and scent it getting a bit louder without touch...#happy growing
Afghan Auto Flower - Auto Pot
AndrewC
@AndrewC
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So this is the Tear Down week. The timing of it makes it so i will need to the harvest flag in a few days when I can weight and test the plants. I have included the Cleaning, and Cutting and some Root Porn. I will make the harvest post in about 4-5 days, when I can trim these plants. There is a lot of Plant here. I got way more than I was expecting. I don't have a scale that measure this amount of plant, without taking like 10 measurements and then adding them together. So I will just be posting the dry weight. I will post the wet weight as dry weight * 1.65. Autopots: Wow, what a great product. I have been blown away by how well and how easy it was to work with them. They really did solve the watering issues. Excellent product. If you are a beginner, start with Autopots. -= Lessons Learnt =- - Overdrive the air to your Autopots. In my control plant, I used a small rectangle air stone (instead of a standard air dome). This lead to root rot and some other issues, it also put significantly less air into the water. The root rot, give the material for the Brown Algae to grow. Using a huge Air-disc-Air-Stone would be an excellent combo to mix in with the air dome itself. Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Pawfly-Diffuser-Suction-Hydroponics-Aquarium/dp/B01MY3AQ33 at the bottom and the air-dome on top of it, will be what I do with my next experiment. - Air stone in the reservoir. I had two instances where algae grew into the res. An air stone would have helped. It would have also helped my control plant get less root rot. Given the amount that the air-domes and air sources got engulfed, having the water have more o2 in it would have only been beneficial. - Don't grow 6 plants in a 4x4. Since my control plant was about 1/8th the size of the others, I think I could have grown 5 in the shape of a 5 (on a 6 sided dice)⚄ This placement would give a much more spaced canopy for airflow and more importantly light. The sides of some of the plants were lighter green and produced larf due to lack of light penetration. - This tent was on 19-5 schedule. This worked out very well for this strain. After every lights on, they were in the praying position, so this strain was able to recover in that 5hrs off. If I had more seeds, I would run these again, and try 20-4. I think this strain could handle it. All for all, I think I'm going to 19-5 as my default timing. This kept up a solid DLI. - Staring at .9EC (really .7 EC cause my water here is .2 EC) Then bumping up at .1 a week, until 1.6EC worked out VERY well. I experimented on this crop all the way up to 1.9EC, which burnt the tips of this plant. I think if I did this strain again, I would do 1.6EC until 3-4 weeks left then crank it to 1.9. It did plump them up when I went to 1.9, however it left them looking rough. Bulk was added though. - Sticking to 6.0PH for all of veg, and 2 weeks into flower worked great. The plant had solid and consistent color and leaf shape . The plant's did get hurt, due to some issues (as noted on the weeks). I switched to 6.5 PH in the last 3-4 weeks and it helped them recover, and plump up noticeably. -VPD. The #1 thing I focused on was VPD. I keep it .9kpa range, as best as humanly possible. It was honestly, HUGELY noticeable compared to my other grows. I know truly understand the value of properly dialed in VPD. This is the one lesson that will stick with me forever. - Super-cropping: On the plants I give the chiropractic treatment too, had much thicker stems as much larger channel internally. I did this treatment to 4 of the 6, and the 4 that had it done has larger buds and recovered from defoliation faster. TLDR; VPD is king. Super-cropping is worth the time. Keeping PH and EC dialed in were all wins. Autopots kick ass.