Sour wiz came out amazing. Not many problems during her grow. Each pheno came out really different but that’s from my doing. I trained each plant differently to see what the difference would be. Responds really well to stress and training. I can’t tell you in words how great the flowers are. They’re literally coated in trichomes and smell and taste so damn good. Fruity sweet gasoline. Enjoy and thanks everyone who looks and follows.0

I gotta be honest this strain has been making me learn and learn and learn.... lol so I am In the process of choosing the right light setting for them, i have lowered the red setting on my kind k5 wifi xl1000 and they are doing way better! I think I’m gonna keep messing with the reds more to get it perfect! This is why this light is amazing cause every plant/strain is different and reacts to each colour differently, and to have a light that is capable to change the intensity is just amazing! My auto feed is on pause right now I need some parts. I’m using Lotus nutrients it’s A one part grow/bloom/boost, it makes feeding easy. Only feeding half of recommended

love the trichomes on this auto

Ok so another frustrating week! So this week I re potted her and moved her into "the big house" under new lights (GN Telos 0010) set at 70cm from canopy and perfect environment controlled by temp and humidity equipment. Now because of the cal mag deficiency I buffered the coco 2 times in an 8 hour soak in 150% calmag solution ph'd to 6.1 prior to transfer. Then after draining and getting to the correct temp I moved her to the new pot and topped with a light A+B feed. A day later I fed with the nutrients listed which includes 1ml/L of calmag and again the same the following day. Run off ph is spot on at 6.2-6.4ph, although it was 6.6 when I checked today and growth is great but this damn limegreen cal mag deficiency seems to be continuing. At this point I am hoping it's damage already done that didn't show when the leaves were young. The bottom leaves dont seem to be getting worse and some of the reddening on the stems has gone so fingers crossed this next week will see a change in green because I'm out of ideas, apart from making a foliar mix and trying that I'm stumped! The only thing I can think of is a flush incase of a nutrient lock out but I cant see that being the case as her nutes have been light. Even now with all the nutes she is getting the EC is only at 1.4. Thanks for reading, any comments/tips welcome as always. Happy growing!

A great second week here as the girls stabilize. They got watered two times this week. All good growth. 📈 This girl is doing real well and developing properly. Dimmed to 40% Here are the lights details: Medic Grow Mini Sun-2 150W LED Model: MN150-022 Spectrum mode: V1 Efficacy: 2.8 umol/J Thanks for stopping by! You can find the light on Grow Diaries: https://growdiaries.com/grow-lights/medic-grow/mini-sun-2-150-watts You can find the light on Medic Grow's website: https://medicgrow.com/

Last days in veg. I did the final defoliation before flipping to bloom. I’m really excited — the veg phase was super easy and a lot of fun with her. She’s definitely a training beast and constantly asking for nutrients.

114 Days left as of 11/6. Disclaimer: 56 days left to veg. Which ever plant is 3 ft or taller in 56 days will be flipped. In 1 week, I will be transplanting into 3 gallon containers that leaves 49 days. When there are 2 weeks left, I choose which ones go into the 5 gallon containers for flowering. After the transplant recovery, I do heavy defoliation and lollipopping. Wait 1 week to recover, and flip time…..Which just so happens to be: New Years!!! This week ( and past few days) has been on target. I am seeing growth everyday I open the tent. I don’t know why, but the first 2 weeks of my grows move super slow. Then in week 3-4, it’s like a rocket ship. 11-11 (51 days left) - kicking some ass now. 2 of the RuntZ might make it, the Hulk-Berry is def going to make it pretty close to 3 ft tall. Hulkberry has 21 days to be transplanted, RuntZ will be transplanted in 14 days.

Couple got a little burn I think maybe a little too much soil in there with the coco on top of the light feed? I got all the final pots filled up today they will go in 3 gal bags either today or tmm. It's a Greentree pro ultra coco/perlite mixed with some roots organic soil about 70/30.

. 🌱 : 💧 : 4l day 58, 4l day 60 💡 : Dli: 40 mol/m²/d 🤔 :

Looking great!! Super purple

Indeed an amazing pheno and strain! Great internodal spacing and very strong stretch during this week, smell starts to appear, sweet gelato vibes. Now I can really understand why this Gelato Thumper was Soo well talked about.

Treated for pests again will repeat every three days until last week of flush. Nice pink colour on one but hard to get a good picture. Will take them out next week and take some better quality photos! Some thirsty girls budding up nicely hopefully get a good harvest!

Here we are at the end of the 8th week of flowering. I'm undecided whether to harvest on day 63 as directed or give them another week. 🤔 In the last photos, there's a shot of the trichomes, where you can already see a good amount of amber. Let me know what you think, mates.

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY EDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂

Week 8 flower| Buds swelling and ripening up

topped 3 from seed 1 getting ready to mainline. This is 1st grow so any input would be great. The clones from day 1 were given to me looking unhealthy. The strawnanna is coming along . I'm worried about clone 2 but I'm optimistic !!! "Let it grow " (~);-}

Esta semana transplantamos nuestras plantas en tiestos de 7 litros de tela y un par de ellas en 11 L de maceta de tela. Utilizamos Azos y Mykos siempre para esa etapa con las recomendaciones de la fábrica, este cultivo Probaremos el delta 9 un compuesto de algas marinas. Espero que os guste Farmers!🍁