So these were meant to be 70 day seeds! And we are on day 75!! They might of been if I did it in a tent with lights and fuck ton of nuts. As I have been doing it in a pop up green house in my garden and using organic nuts (watered-down coffee grounds at veg stage) and then (2-3 banana peels left in water in water for 2 days when flowing) I think they have turn out OK. Still got about 2-3 weeks left I think till harvest. Smell so strong but ever so sweet. Again can not thank you enough everyone that has helped with tips.

It's hard to believe that this girl is about 7 to 10 days behind the skittles and banner. She is now growing taller than the rest in the tent. This lady is gonna be huge. The training has paid off and I've managed to a nice even canopy out of her. Real happy with this girl, by far one of my favourite strains and I can't wait to taste.

✎ WE HAD A TOUGH WEEK. SHE FELL FROM A HEIGHT. ( ABOUT 70 SM ) ✎ FALLING AND IMPORER ATTENTION CAUSED SOME STRESS. ( WE PAUSED A LITTLE, BUT NOTHING ) ✎ IT IS WATERED WITH BIORAG AND PH ( 6.5 ) BALANCED WATER. ✎ FERTILIZER WAS RECEIVED ONCE THIS WEEK. ( GREEN HOUSE FEEDING / GROW ― 210 PPM / 22°

I tried to move a couple plants over to the smaller tent to get a little more air circulation in there because I had only a passive air intake. With this many plants in this space I didn't think they're getting quite enough fresh air. But upon moving them over to the tent the light even at the highest position slightly started light bleaching the tops of a few plants. So I then moved them back to this bigger grow space and bought an intake fan. The Zkittlez are fighting me the whole way, I don't know if she likes to be cloned or not. Only the Zkittlez often seem to look a little sad even with everything dialed in for them.

Time for quick movie! Check attach

Week 3 of flower and decided to start using PLAGRON: Green Sensation a week earlier. Pistils are appearing and maybe need some phosphorous and potassium. Quite a bit of stretching going on. Had to bend back a few stems to try even out canopy. Some burnt tips? From what? No idea. One of the strawberry cough seems to be taking longer to transition, still stretching and no pistils. Apart from the tip burns, which I’m hoping is because of my light being too close. (Adjusted higher now) It seems to be going OK, nothing great….

Showtime.... The ladies are officially in flower... this is so exciting... I could’ve flipped them 3 Weeks ago but a long strong Vegetative phase a give you big colas and a large yield... Stay tuned

1/10 Week 10 Both are in flush and from the looks of the tricones these are the most potent plants we have grown to date. Drinking has really slowed down but keeping the un-PH one gallon daily flush since tap water is cheap. Annie doing very well under the LED lamp, TS-1000 plenty large enough for one plant in flower. This is encouraging for plans to replace the HID with either a TS-2000 or TS-3000(preferred) this spring before the summer heat. Just a few more days....😎 1/11 Bud pics Harvest Belle on 1/13 - Annie 1/16 Just getting them ready. taking off some useless leaves etc... 1/14 Harvesting Belle today, let her dry out one last day. Annie harvest at weeks end. Harvest pics and total numbers at end of week when I take Annie 👉BELLE HARVEST 963 grams wet 👈 Annie got her last watering today, harvest in two days 1/15 Harvesting in about 12 hours, pics and numbers then

Black Cherry Gushers - Barney's Farm x Backpack Boyz Day 80 - Watered with 3 litres of RO tap water, with defined nutrients, pH'd to 6.3. She has stopped stretching and is now focusing on developing her flower, and her smell is starting to shine; sweet floral. She has a a nice structure, but she is a little bushy as the top, which will reduce the light penetration just below the canopy, so I have added under canopy lighting to supplement this. Notes: - She has been moved into the 3x3 on a 12 hour light schedule, to give her more space. - I have added under canopy lights to help increase the PPFD at the lower bud sites.

Alles soweit recht ruhig die Woche verläuft ereignislos aber die Baumstruktur wird immer deutlicher das find ich gut :o

Defo hit a stretch and are well into flower now .. looking good and healthy,.. roll on next week 👌

10 days after the gorilla, the tropicanna is ready!! a show 🤩🤩

What was it like this week? It was irritating. This site is sucking. Upload a vid that takes so long to upload to just have the save sign spin and spin. Then have to reupload. Your admin sucks the bag.

Start of week 8,flowering, looking for amber trickomes,took off a branch at day 52, trickomes,were mostly milky some clear. I want to know the sweet spot for this girl if you know what I mean. I will post other pics of early cut latter. Also I switched to blue spectrum light only, supposedly it gets more UV light and packs on more resin(higher T H C ) ,Not that it needs more, but in the name of science I am willing to put in the extra effort. 🔎😎

1 er Cycle : Gourmande e crossance et Flo ... La Tangerine Dream est une variété de cannabis à dominance sativa au goût acidulé, doux et intense. Les arômes d'agrumes ainsi que les effets qui sont à la fois cérébral et relaxant satisferont aussi bien les amateurs de THC comme les amateurs de CBD. Les juges de la Cannabis Cup 2010 étaient d'accord avec cette description car ils l'ont élu comme la meilleure variété de cannabis 2010. Barney's Farm annonce un temps de floraison de 60-65 jours, ce qui est court pour une variété sativa aussi puissante. La Tangerine Dream donne des plantes de un mètre de haut en intérieur avec beaucoup de branches latérales robustes. La production de la Tamngerine Dream est impressionnante, 600 gr/m2 en indoor. Les têtes sont grandes, compactes et recouvertes de pistils rouges orangés ainsi que d'une résine très odorante remplie de THC. L'effet de la Tangerine Dream de Barney's Farm dure longtemps. Quant à ses parents, la G13 est une variété de cannabis légendaire reconnue pour ses saveurs intenses ainsi que ses effets très puissants et la Neville's A5 Haze est une plante exotique raffinée. La Tangerine Dream de Barney's Farm est une variété de cannabis très productive et de floraison courte. Les taux de THC et de CBD annoncés par Barney's Farm sont exceptionnels car peu de variétés du marché actuel arrivent à 25% de THC et 1.8 de CBD. Parfait rien a dire. 2 ème Cycle:

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

Rainbow melon has stolen my heart From day one the plant was bigger as nice strong stock handles low stress training well some of the biggest buds I’ve ever had. I am truly in love with this plant fade is absolutely one of the Most beautiful like an Indian summer Cannot wait to see what they come up with next💪🔥💯

The skunk apple runtz is still small but is moving along with new nodes. Of inremever right the leaves and just the way it grows reminds me of one of the parents of this plant and man that plant was awsome it just drank so much water amd was sturdy amd smelt of skunk and apples via the name I gave it This past week, the plants went from being weak little plants that had just been top and now they are on there way to being nice and sturdy. I could flip them to flower now if I wanted. I plan on letting them grow a few more nodes on each branch before I give them the flip. My hopes is I get longer colas if I let it ride out longer in veg cutting off all the lower growth b4 flower. I have had the light on 25% still but today I raised it up to 3o% I like to have them handling 40% nicely before I turn them to flower