Skywalker putting on tons of frost and seems to be happy with the status quo so no more compost teas for her. Starting to have a distinct Kush scent filling the tent now. In the future I’d probably LST this from the start to increase yields but other than some defoliation throughout, I haven’t done any training which has been nice. Blueberry impressed me with the size of the buds starting to form. Signs of frost for sure. Not very aromatic yet at this point. Stem rub is a different story. She has been showing some signs of calcium/mag deficiency in some of the leaves which seemed to improve with top dressing/Recharge. Been drinking a steady liter minimum daily Glueberry OG continues to explode in growth. I’ve done quite a bit of defoliation to keep tops exposed and it has bounced back quick each time. I can see why this would be a fun strain outdoors, as it is slowly taking up a solid 4 square ft of the tent. I may end up finishing this outdoors depending on its desire to consume the canopy space. Due to the longer flower period, I’ll keep up with compost teas to support all that growth. So far, it seems to be working Week ended 7/20

7/20 #1 and #2 are wild grown, so they are surrounded by enemies. #1　Day70　@Out　10Week　 #2　Day65　@Out　10Week　 8/4 #3　Day69　12/12　Flowering / 5Week　 short-day processing　Day30 BioGrow1ml/l,Bloom3ml/l,Max1ml/l = 3l　Next watering 3l #4　Day66　12/12　Flowering / 5Week　 short-day processing　Day30 BioGrow1ml/l,Bloom3ml/l,Max1ml/l = 3l　Next watering 3l #Clone　Day15　Light Schedule 18/6 8/5 Carbon filter installation

All details will be added every day/week if u have any questions feel free to ask. December 4th:starting in the winter, veg and bloom will happen under 400watt hps to keep the grow room warm. the seeds have been germinating for 2 days with the wet paper towel technique, they got root and are now in soil and the rockwool cube. for now im just waiting for the seeds to show root coming out of the rockwool, then i transplant to the netpot with clay pellets straight in the dwc, untill then they get fluorescent light (max 7 days) these are autoflowers so they get 18 or 20 hours light. nutrients General hydroponics three part :micro gro bloom and calmag water: rainwater (25ppm) i hope the room wont cool of too much when the lights go out. Day 1 (December 5) seeds start to come above the rockwool and the soil Day 2 (december 6) stems start to stretch i give them both pure rain water with 100ppm calmag when they feel dry. Day 4 (december 8) still no root visible out of the rockwool Day 5 (december 9) root visible outside of rockwool cube and transplant to the 55Liter rdwc air pumps 10l/minute Day 7 (december 11) root comes trough netpot, i lowered the water by removing 3Liters

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Beginning of week 3 of flowering and plants are slowing there stretch down. I decided to let them come up into the second screen about a foot above the first screen. Second screen holes are twice as big as the first layer screen and is primarily to support the colas later in flowering. I stripped all the growth below the first screen so the plants won’t waste there energy on these lower beaches with no light under the canopy. I will be removing a few of the larger guard leaves later in the week on the top of the canopy to let light in to the lower shouts ready to come up, but not until after the plants recovers for a day or 2 from the bottom stripping. Smell is starting to ramp up, can really notice it strong when you open the tent now.

She's stretching like crazy..... starting to drink water like they do about this time.. experiment trying a little of everything come with this one .....Scrog Defoliation HST LST Top Fim

Day 42 Update : Well folks , we are getting towards a finish now. The FFT #8 is still a bud on a stick style so we won't visit that one at all !!. FFT#9 Is now pushing some very nice trichromes out throughout her many mains. The bud structures are solid on her and she jas somewhere nice long colas stacks that are fattening up daily now. She is in her budswell stage now and has a beautiful fruity smell oozing from her. She is starting tonget some nice pinky colour appearing deep in the bud too which makes them look very nice FFT#10 Looks like she is trying to escape with her main stem off tonthe side looking for the sp250. Her buds are also rock solid with a really candy sweet smell She is nice and dark again since I have been adding the megacrop and shogun products and her stack girth indicates she will be a nice yield come harvest. Another 2 winner strains from this range nice work Fastbuds. Now we need to know who they are. lol

Fast Buds RF3 Auto Mixed pack (4 of 5 seeds) Everything is coming along fine. I pinned down most of the branches last week but, the #4 plant is starting to stretch so I added 2 more pins to get the head space more even for the light. The #1 and #2 plants are starting to get some frost and look like they might be the same variety.

Una cepa bastante fácil de cultivar,yo al preparar un súper soil a base de guano,ácidos humicos,bacterias,mi suero de lactobacillus casero,algas marinas y humus,tan solo regue con agua por lo que no tengo mucho trabajo en ese sentido,ademas tampoco le aplique ninguna técnica de entrenamiento cosa que me gustaría hacer si tengo oprtunidad de volver a cultivar esta cepa, sin embargo vi que empezó la floración siendo pequeña de tamaño,término dando una excelente porra central y algunos cogollos bajeros con los que me fui haciendo algunas infusiones con leche entera y también con aceite de oliva para no tener que recurrir al mercado negro y poder asi añadir mis canabinoides a mi sistema para poder mejorar mi lumbalgia y descansar mejor. El aroma es sencillamente exquisito,ha sido todo un placer cultivar esta cepa,lo malo es que es muy poco para mi ya que soy un usuario que necesita una buena reserva de cogollos potentes sobre todo a nivel físico que me ayuden a lo largo del año.muchas gracias y espero que os haya gustado mi trabajo, paz compañeros Canabicos! 💚✌️❤️💛🌱

The plant faded early so i added 50% more strength in the reservoir

Une plante qui et petite robuste toufu de résine elle et facile à cultiver et donne deux jolie petit buds dure et robuste elle vous laissera Asie sur votre canapé

Day 63 - lookin good.... haha.... um, tanks stabilized, ph 5.8 - ppm 1200 .... she's feedin alot..... buds are fillin and lotsa white furries.... listed the nutes and amounts etc.., but i'm kinda feeding her as she needs.... so every few days she is drinking 2 lts +- and i'm just mixing up a neut solution in a 2 lt bottle every day or 2 ..... sometimes she just wants abit of water...... Day 64 +vid....shows her deep green and gloss... abit of crystalic :) Day 65 - vids pics.... trimmed her, and abit of bending.... Added blood and bone.... she's stretching alot, 60cm+ ........ Day 67 took all the early buds on all the stringy 0ff shoots.... Poor lighting vids, but don't want to mess with her flowering, :) 👍😎👊

Growth has been very very slow due to bad rainy and cold weather. My hopes are not the highest for this one :/

All right guys so we're just over a month of flower and she's starting to stack as of now I would say officially... I think we're going to see a lot of growth in the next two weeks to 3 weeks.. WEEDSEEDSEXPRESS thank you for the opportunity to showcase your genetics and just how strong they truly are because as I said in the video and as I've said this whole time this girl has taken a beating like none before... She had the disadvantage of starting life and old dirt that had salt base nutrients with plenty of residual left in the medium.. I planted two plants the other one did not survive.. not only did she pull through in the early stages but once she got past the hump of the situation I put her in she has been growing great ever since and as you can see I have done massive training to her I've topped her a whole bunch of times been tying her down because I wanted to see just how resilient the plant is.. it's amazing that the plants will to live is stronger than most humans.. with that being said next week we should see a good amount of growth and I am extremely excited for this one as it is strawberry cough.. thank you again to everybody at WEEDSEEDSEXPRESS.. until next week happy growing everybody ✌️😎 https://weedseedsexpress.com/us

Das kleine 150 Watt Licht macht sich bemerkbar. An Tag 40 sind sie schon etwas zu sehr ausgetrocknet. Dann mit 2L pro Pflanze gegossen.

4/10 Hey all. So I obviously slacked off on keeping a journal. Easier said than done when life gets busy. This is for anyone who took a passing interest in this plant because this was a relatively new strain from In-house.When I last left, I was reporting yellowing in the plant and general sadness in how she looked. Long story short, I think it was the enviornment it struggled with. I ended up switching it to my "warmer" tent that was closer to the space heater. It ended up growing more when I did this. That being said, it never seemed to fully recover. I ended up flipping to 12/12 (not recommended if you have a struggling plant) only because I was starting to run out of space. Fortunately for me, it seems like the plant has never been healthier. The buds are coming in nicely thus far and smell great. I think spring came just in time for her. The tent now routinely gets up to about 75-77 degrees F instead of the balmy 72-69 F I was dealing with months ago. Regardless, this journal WILL have a happy ending. Happy growing everyone.