Soil PH Stabilised Plants Have Shot Up Over 10” Over The Last Week. Moonshine Spray Used Once A Week Until Flip. Lights Are At 60% Brightness

It’s amazing watching these plants grow, it’s been an experience already and so much to go with this grow and with all the learning to come I hope it looks okay to you guys anyone who would like to comment please do I’d love to hear other’s thoughts!

Dia 30 de floracion, el producto que veis es gold complet de gold green, un complemento lleno de muchisimos nutrientes que aportan un extra a la tabla de bio bizz, ( lo recomiendo 100%) en www.cogolandia.com podeis comprarlo Dejo fotos de el PH y EC y como dije muy importante la temperatura del agua de riego, Estas plantas están demostrando mucho vigor y van a sacar muy buenos orbitales, la temperatura del cultivo siempre esta entre 24 y 26 grados

Beautiful Plant and good smell - cant wait to test the finish product. Smells a little like grape and other fruit i cannot explain. this was her last week. Week 10 she got only 10hrs of light for the first 5 days of the week. Day 66 - Last watering Day 68 - lights off Day 70 - harvest

WEEK 9: SLO-MO TORTURE & UV TAN. ☀️💎 Week 9 overall, but only Week 4 of flower. Time is moving like a snail, man. I’m losing my mind waiting, but the girls? They’re living their best life. I just threw some UV bars in the mix—gave 'em that premium solarium vibe. They’re soaking up those rays and the resin production is going nuclear. You can literally see 'em getting frostier by the hour. That extra light is hitting different, making the trichomes pop like diamonds. They’re looking expensive, smelling illegal, and getting fat. The wait is a bh, but the quality is gonna be top-tier.* 🦍🍰 Who else is running UV to boost that frost? Is it worth the hype? Drop your results. 👇

Die "Kleine" ist enorm nach dem umtopfen enorm gewachsen 😍 So sehr das ich den Haupstamm von 35cm auf 21 cm runtergebogen habe. Noch ist sie sehr schön biegsam. Schon am 29 Tag konnte ich mit dem scroggen beginnen, dafür habe ich alle Sonnensegel am Hauptstamm entfernt.

And here we are with another week just over... And most probably next week I will also chop her down!! In these week probably for the heat stress she got I started seeing some main buds foxtailing. We are in the 10/14 days of plain pHed water, but I'm considering cutting her before the full flush is complete, this cause I can also see some amber trichomes. For now that's all, but now more than ever stay tuned for the next week, which will be most likely the harvest week! Stay high peeps!!

Added a trellis for support this week, don't want them flopping around the tent in late flower. Stretch is slowly coming to an end amd preflowers are formed. Impressed again by the rapid transition with only 8 mins of Far Red. Gave them the luxury treatment with some mycorrhizae, bacteria, algae and melassis, they seem happy. PPFD is currently at 600-750, going for 800-900 in bulk phase.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Well after having issues with my 3x3 set up, I decided to move the 2x2 over to the main room and see if it helps get the humidity down. And it did. Went from 65% down to 45% the first day now it goes back and forth between 45% and 50%. Way better then 58% and 66% if you ask me. I also opened the tent up so that it can get a bit of the extra light from my other lights. Especially as one of the buds is up past the light. Lol been a interesting grow so far thats for sure. Well that's all for now so happy growing everyone!!!

Se está viendo muy verde y saludable Tengo altas expectativas de esta nena... Tenemos que mudarnos a la tienda de cultivo espero poder seguir creciendo seguir Este calor está insoportable para todos!!!

THe little i smoked was great for pain. Got crazy munchies afterwards. Thumbs up!

Video was taken 2 days ago right before a feed, today they are all praying to the lights and look good.

First I need to thank Mrs_Larimar for helping me through this process!! Thank you!!!😅 The good girl was rinsed with 20 liters of tap water and surrounded with approx. 1.5 - 2 liters of fresh soil in a larger pot. After strong concerns about whether it will be something with the good, one day later I have already enjoyed 6cm of height gain and much stronger fragrances. Now, on the third day after the action, she looks more fresh again and her scent....... * Awwwww * No nutrients or other aids have been added. Only when the weight is right, it will be poured again. Yesterday one day after rinsing I removed the 2 lowest fan leaves as it seemed to me from stress of the plant as I could do that. It does not seem to bother her. Wish me good luck! xD