Week 1 germination through week 1 seedling , veg Topped Training Ph water 6.0 first couple days week 1 started using Cronk Nutrient auto flower guide .

Hi Bros&Sis! I've been a little bit lazy, indeed, but there's a lot of works to do here, on my girls and as a father of a big family. Enjoy the videos, I decide to put a single short for every strain, to see the beauty in full screen :D

So this week i will be repotting the ladys in 5gal fabric pots with clay pebbles and a mix of biobizz light mix soil and all mix soil. I will be starting to use 4ml/1l of water of biobizz roots. I'm thinking of doing a 6 week veg on these ladys as I will be doing a 9 plant auto run in the 4x4. Happy growing guys.

11-21 All the girls had a great first week and looking very happy and ready to be topped moving into week 2. Average height of 11.5”. Changed circulation pump from 75gph to 160gph 11-22 Update Topped all 4 resulting in a 10” average. 11-23 Update All responded great to topping and pushing out a lot of new growth. Added video including the mob boss and duct tape moms on the RDWC skid and the older sisters in week 9 overall, flower week 5 in the flower tent that these will move into.

🌱🌞🌱Week4🌱🌞🌱 Bruce is much smaller, LST is almost completely tied to the ground, but looks super healthy. All the side shoots have now been directed and I hope that she will now grow nicely upwards 😅 Sherbet is my queen in this grow so far 🌞 It's just fun to watch the beauty grow. To start the fourth week, I removed some leaves today and directed the shoots in the right direction, otherwise Brucie will soon be completely overgrown 😂 but hopefully it will also have the effect that the good energy of growth will now go in the right direction.... I'll be surprised. Now she looks like a beautiful chandelier 😎

I’m overjoyed with the phenos this strain is producing, strong vibrant purples with some serious flavour profiles! Scent Profiles we have: Candy Lemon Sherbet 🍬🍋 Sweet & Piney Diesel 🍭🌲⛽️ Sweet & Tangy Tropical Punch 🏝️🥊 Alongside this, these beauties are the frostiest and the most insanely dense koala looking nugs I’ve ever produced!

Unfortunately, once again (last grow too) I had some bud rot in the last week before harvest in both plants with the biggest one largely affected. Because of that, I had to remove all infected parts and have an early harvest. I picked out all fucked buds, gave my plants another two days of (finally!) sunshine to dry out the cut-outs I did on the plants. Today I harvested the smaller one and was surprised it actually was quite alright in terms of yield. Tomorrow, I'll cut the big one and I hope there will still be some good bud structures left as this one grew so nice, especially for being a dwarf :-D Will update as soon as I've got more news! UPDATE: I cut the big one as well and am very pleased with the yield I have from this grow. Was not an easy grow since the weather was shit and I've had to throw away some decent buds because of bud rot, but all in all it looks promising :-) DRY WEIGHT: 48g of fresh buds (had to throw away at least what could have been 10-15 grams because of bud rot)

General —— Plant is doing fine. Had no issues this week and the devlopment looks solid. Hope she will stretch a bit more in the next week so that the fems can use the trellis once they are far enough. Nutes —— Gave her Bio PK 5-8 for one time which was a harsh feeding as I mixed it with all the other nutrients. Other than that I'm watering 1.5L of Water every 3 days with CalMag and Horsetail Extract. A bit of nutrient burn on the lower leaves but nothing to worry about Light —— Bumped light from 120W and 30cm distance to 210W and 40cm distance by end of this week. DLI is around 40 at the moment. Defoliation —— Removed some leaves in the middle so that everything gets light. Also removed some leaves from the bottom which were shaded. Will remove branches that don’t make it end of Week 6

04/01/21 Amazing colours have came through during cure showing off her red and purple! And she’s frosty all over and tastes like a tropical dream!mango pineapple tones with a side of lime! Would defiantly recomiod Update; colours are coming through got some amazing hues just uploaded some vids 😍 Got the green pheno on both???! But it’s but either way I love this strain tastes a lot like the black cream auto I’ve done of sweet seeds too. So many colours in the bud and the flavour is immense throughout! Tastes like tropical mango and slight pineapple with a lovely pungent limeish taste it’s so nice and the high sent me to sleep when I tested the result! Just had to lay there and close my eyes and enjoy it and woke up to the end of my film ahahah would defiantly recommend Anyone growing very easy and amazing results!

So this week I used MediOne 4-3-3 to try to slow the Nitrogen deficiency I feel like I was seeing early on. i also added a little calmag. They didn't like it too much, now i have a different problem...also some of the leaves started clawing possibly from the drench when i added the top dress. I tried to dry her back a little until I saw the first signs of her drooping and then I added a little water to the autopot

👉Alrighty Then👈 We are back this week and they are killing it 👏 😎 🙏 zero issues 😀 👉So we are now starting week 6 of Flowering and the buds are pumping 🤪 👉I did a slight defolation and I've continue to emend my nutrients plan for full Flower ..... 👈 😳So I will be showcasing just 3 this round even thoe I am growing 7 plants 😳 👉Black Domina From Weedseedsexpress 👍 👉Permanent Marker From Weedseedsexpress 👍 👉Sleepy Joe OG From Weedseedsexpress 👍 The other 2 are repeats cause they are pure fire 👈 You can view these 2 in the 👉Summer Classic Diary 💪 Had issues with the Banana Biscotti germination, so it's way behind and also the extra seed I popped 👉Purple Oreoz From Seedsman 👍 👉Persian Pie From Greenhouseseeds 👍 👉Banana Biscotti From Seedsman 👍 👉Gorilla Cookies From FastBuds Soil by Promix Nutrients by Cronks Lights by MarsHydro & Vivosun Well this should be fun 🙃 Thanks to all my growmies out there for stopping by its much appreciated 👈 👉Happy Growing👈

14 day dry | Curing in Grove bags, filled 7 QP bags & got 56g of keif out the trim bin from only 2 plants! More pictures coming! STAY FROSTY GROWMIES

2018-11-19 Flowering in full swing. Pulling slows down. In the morning, on the day of the compote replacement, my PPM-meter broke down. Therefore, the new solution was kneaded by eye. Tomorrow a new device will arrive and I will clarify what I have mixed there. 2018-11-24 Buds swell, there is time to figure out how to do time lapse video.

the plant has built an incredibly strong trunk that with great difficulty you can even shake the plant a little.The cold prevails unfortunately but the plant seems to cope with it and produ flowers

Ho appena raccolto al più presto aggiornerò dopo la giusta concia/cura

These two are looking like their gonna be different pheno types cause Grapey Walter #1 has remained short and wide af but Grapey Walter #2 is towering over all the others in height which shouldent be a problem, also Grapey Walter #1 is flowering a bit slower than the rest 👌🏻 Still looking good, starting to frost up now also added an 4” air intake and hung it up to blow air across the canopy.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.