07/31/2019 She wants to flower outside she gets 14.5 hours of sunlight, and flowering will definatly grow in garden next year as she flowering early and no doubt that she be done before first freeze, I was hoping to veg a little longer but I made more clones but all four clones are going along great and I picked a new mom. This girl, I fed her Espoma garden tone 5-10-5 which is good for 30 days hope for a nice stretch, difinatly stronger against powdery mildew than my Banana Kush plant, nice OG scents in the air she's going to stink!

Major defoliation/ lollipoping that happened this week right on day 20 my main concern was looking for more hermies (due to stem cracks from lst) and also cut out any lower branches that where going to make larfy buds. I only cut up the branches untill the point that the budsites where at least a nice pistil cluster (10and up ) some branches got a good 6-7 inches shaved off some more like 2-3 just depends on the plant with so much variety. Also my plants are like touching the lights it just wont let me mark less then 4inches i have the ability to raise my light another 2inches so i will definitely be doing that. For now i have the taller branches off to the sides so the can outgrow the light without burning. Smells finally starting to come in with more gassy earth coming from DD and devine chocolate GG4 smell coming from the mellows Still see some nitrogen toxicity not sure if should cut all nutes in half considerIng week three biogrow increases to 3ml/L

Working temps up slightly and increase light intensity. Quite please with this quantum board led so far whilst in veg . Nutes upped slightly but bearing in mind I have a little amount of light mix soil at top of pot when rock cubes got put in the bigger pots Still feeding over the top of pot to eatable roots before hooking up the auto pot system . All seems in check so far apart from a little water drip damage on the young leafs from doing a folair sprey in the begging of this run . Still undecided weather to go for topping at the 6th pair of sets and remove the bottom set for my usual 5pairs and top n top or to get them growing on a side ways lean for a lower stress impact throughout the veg . Any thoughts and comments on this would be good regarding what would yeild better

10 Jan - 16 Jan 11 Jan Kush del Arriero: Looking good, fat buds, a lot of them. Choco Cookies: This one has been a little too sensitive with nutrients, it only has a few small buds, the other plants overshadow it. Banana Cake: TBH I thought this was going to be the one with the biggest buds, they look frosty tho. 15 Jan Some fan leaves are starting to look pretty damaged by a previous nutrient lock.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

12/25/2023-Germination Day 1 Merry X-mas 2023 I decided to start a run of SolFIre Gardens Hoodz Candyz S1. I am going to do a cup filled with RO water a touch of Hydrogen peroxide and let it sit for 24-48 hours until I see tap root then I am going to put it into a rapid rooter.. Tap root Down and put it about 1/4 of the say down the Rapid rooter. I made some modifications to my basket on this run.. I have taken a few Pods that I use for my cloning machine and decided that I am going to try and use them as sure plants, so that I can take my water right up to the bottom of the basket this time and see if these can make my planting more consistent.   12/26/2023-Germination Day 2 Tap root achieved Planting Commencing 12/27/2023-Germination Day 3 Misted the dome lightly misted the rapid rooter and added a little water to the bottom of the pan to encourage root growth to the pan. 12/28/2023-Germination Day 4 Ground Hogs day 12/29/2023- Germination Day 5 She is up, she has broken surface, I misted the root riot, and around the bottom of the tray to try and entice root growth down rapidly. 12/31/2023- Germination Day 6 Ground Hogs Day 1/1/2024-Germination Day 7 HAPPY NEW YEARS!!.. I did it I planned it out so my planting day would fall on New Years and it worked.. Yay!!! 1/2/2024- Germination Day 8 Since the roots are not to the water yet, I am pouring one cup of water lightly on the hydroton around the lady to try and encourage root growth down to the water.. 1/3/2024- Germination Day 9 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. 1/4/2024- Germination Day 10 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. I will just continue to top feed until roots are in the water.. Shouldn't be more than a few more days. 1/5/2024- Germination Day 11 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. I am going to change the water Sunday and kick off Week 1, I will just continue to top feed until roots are in the water.. Shouldn't be more than a few more days. 1/6/2024- Germination Day 12 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. I will just continue to top feed until roots are in the water.. Shouldn't be more than a few more days. 1/6/2024- Germination Day 13 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. 1/7/2024- Germination Day 14 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water.

At the end of week 10 the 18 CANNALOPE HAZE plants from DNA-GENETICS are ready to harvest. The plants have all started to fade and get yellow leaves and hardly have any whit pistils anymore. I check the trichomes with a handheld microscope and see that they have all turned milky and some even amber...now is the PERFECT MOMENT to harvest them, they have reached PEAK-THC now. The colas on each plant are HUGE and COVERED IN TRICHOMES. A strong 'hazy' aroma is filling out the tent, its an earthy and mildly sweet smell, very enticing, I cant wait to try my medicine after its dry. The plants on the left side under the LUMATEK ZEUS 600W PRO are less uniform (=some are taller, some are smaller) and less compact than on the other side. The right side under the two SANlight Q6W-Gen.2 LED-lamps has grown more uniform (all plants have almost the same height) and with more compact buds. The trichome production was very good on both sides, the quality of the buds is OUTSTANDING!

I am very pleased with this harvest, my buds are fragrant and very strong, I did not use too much of them, it gives me the ability to concentrate and think highly, the aroma and taste of mango and lemon. I have come very far with it. So great. And happy grow.

Welcome to week 5 of flower. Things have gone very well so far a tiny amount of burning on a leaf text but I have corrected it before it became a real problem. I cut back the nutrient level to 2 mg of micro Bloom and flour as opposed to three and things seem to be going pretty good. The bud sites are fattening rather nicely considering it's only going into week 5.

15-11-20 Se cambia la solución y se realiza un lavado de raíces. Para bajar la conductividad de las raíces de 1.72 a 0.2 ms para que la solución nueva sea más efectiva. Se corrige el PH de 6.1 a 5.6. La solución tiene 2.25 ms y 5.6 PH. Se añade una pastilla de CO2. 16-11-20 Se corrige el PH 6.10 a 5.6 Conductividad 1.77 ms. 18-11-20 Se corrige el PH 6.30 a 5.6 Conductividad 1.82 ms. 20-11-20 Se corrige el PH 6.30 a 5.6 Conductividad 1.95 ms.

Transplant to 1 gallon Add all purpose happy frog

Can't wait to blazeeee Feeding💪 10/17 Water30L+Cleanse80ml+calmag@190ppm Ph6.3 Ebb 10.42/11.32/12.26/13 Clone 11.35/12.21/13.05/14 Average runoff ec1.5 Keeper 300ml per pot 10/18 Water26L+Flawless90ml+calmag@300ppm Ph6.3 Ebb 11.38/12.24/13.17 Average runoff ec1.2 ph6.5 Clone 12.38/13.56/15.20/16.10 Average runoff ec1.5 ppm750 10/19 Water26L+Cleanse80ml+calmag@200ppm Ph6.3 Ebb 11.12/11.48/12.24 Average runoff ec1.4 Clone 11.50/12.12/12.37/13.37/14.40 Average runoff ec1.3 ph6.6 10/20 Water30L+Cleanse30ml+Calmag@190ppm Ph6.4 Ebb11.42/12.22/13.20/14 Clone 12.40/13.20/14.20/14.45/15.15 Average runoff 1.2ec ph6.4-6.7 10/22 last light day 10/23 2 Pm Cut and hang Plan 21day at 23temp 55rh

1st of November, HARVEST, D91 So, after the 24 hours of darkness, she is now beautiful and ready. After chopping her, I hung her for some hours – I had some stuff to do – and after that I did wet trimming since I find it more convenient and I don´t like to trim dry buds. I guess the best way for me would be to leave it drying for some days, do the trimming, then leave it drying some more, but, I sincerely don´t have patience lol. When I was in the last stock to trim (which was the main btw) the top bud looked strange to me so I opened it and it was starting to rot.. I got really sad but what can I do except for trying to save it, right? So I took all the rotten parts out of the top bud and tore it to pieces to watch it closely and keep it from getting any more mold. D94 Today I weighed the half part of the top bud that was already dry and it remained without any mold: 3.6 grams. D97 Everything is dry and now curing, the total weight is 68.6, 65 of the whole plant and 3.6 of what I saved from the rotten bud. I´m really happy with the results, the buds aren´t much dense but they look beautiful. D111 Today is the 14th day of curing. D120 Today I´ll be doing the smoke report, it´s been curing for 3 weeks and the smells is quite good already, I know it can be better but the taste is good already so I´ll be doing it today. More info on growing in the previous weeks and a summary of growing and also the smoke report are on the top at the strain review. Thank you very much for reading my diary!

She looks really good I prepared the soil with 200g of seaweed powder,kalong powder and also veg pearls, I love to grow the organic way

Flower - Week 3 (Days 15-21) Week three was all about managing momentum. The stretch is still very real, and the canopy has been getting denser by the day - so my main goals were: keep airflow moving through the plant, keep tops positioned under the trellis, and keep the reservoir stable while she drinks hard. I’m still doing regular top-offs and watching how the numbers move. Even when I top off with “plain” pH’d water, the EC behavior has been a bit weird - partly because my top-off water isn’t actually plain (it’s sitting around ~0.8 EC), and partly because the plant is clearly drinking a lot. EC has been running hot on paper, but the plant hasn’t shown classic overfeed stress - she’s stayed vigorous and healthy, with no meaningful clawing or widespread tip burn. Training-wise, supercropping has been a win. I’ve bent a few tops to control height and keep the canopy even, and the branches have bounced back quickly - exactly what you want to see. I also did a proper cleanup underneath: lollipopping to remove lower growth that wasn’t going to amount to much and to open up the structure for airflow. The canopy still covers the whole tent, so even after the “haircut,” she should be capturing plenty of light where it matters. Overall: she’s thriving, stretching hard, and starting to look like a real production plant now - dense top growth, strong structure, and a clean lower zone that should help reduce humidity pockets and improve bud development as flower stacks up.

Transplanted and topped today. I always transplant and top at the same time as new shoots equals new roots! Maximize your grow! The roots are looking amazing for this transplant. I made another coco perlite and gaia green mix. This time with a 1:2 ratio of the 4-4-4 and 2-8-4 because I will be flipping to flower the week after the plants have recovered from topping. On transplant I use a mycorrhizae powder to reduce transplant shock and aid in nutrient uptake and root development. They still need some nitrogen to support them during the stretch but the added phosphorus helps with the stretch along with potassium to setting buds. I also installed my first layer of trellis to weave the plants in early. At the end of the week I got 2 autos and wanted to see what I could do with them so I planted them and then also got rid of one of the Caramel Creams (C.C) because it was lagging behind the other one a little to much.

🌿 Woche 8 - Erste Erntewoche - So Jung und doch so Reif ️🌿 🌱 Wachstum Man sieht mittlerweile deutlich, dass die "kleinere" Pflanze es sehr eilig hat. 🏃‍♀️💨 Die Dominante Dame, lässt sich dagegen etwas mehr Zeit für ihre Buds. ⏳🌸 Aber für beide Damen gilt: Für ihre 8–9 Wochen ist das beachtlich. 🌟 Rückblickend hätte ich vllt etwas mehr Lollypopping machen sollen. Beim Ernten, kamen ein Paar Triebe zum vorschein, die sich nicht so gut entwicken konnten. Fastbuds typisch, sind viele Quallitativ geile Buds dabei. Ich freue mich schon aufs Naschen 😋 Aber jetzt wo ich die Erste Lady geerntet hab, hab ich gemerkt das 100g vllt etwas hochgestapelt war. 😬 Ich hoffe das ich wenigstens noch die 80g irgendwie knacke. 😹 🌱 Living Soil Was man auch sieht, sind Mängel. 😰 Es könnte an den 2 Pflanzen im selben Topf liegen. Grade bei so schnell wachsenden Auto´s könnte die Nährstoff Verteilung gestört gewesen sein. 😵 Es könnte aber auch sein, dass die Erde wegen der Doppelbepflanzen schon sehr ausgelaugt war. Es könnte auch sein das die Microorganismen nicht schnell genug hinterherkamen. 😪 Da ich viele Rote Stiele sowie Rostflecken an den Blättern, und etwas Leaf-rot hatte, müsste es hauptsächlich Phosphor Mangel sein. 👉 💡 Licht & Schatten PPFD 📈 Aktuell ca. 900 µmol/m²/s. ☀️ Wetter Die Temperaturen sind und bleiben brutal: 27–34 °C 🌡️🔥 💧 Gießen 🕒 Alle 2–3 Tage 🚿 Jeweils 2,2 l Wasser 💦 🎶 The Grow must go on! 🌱✨