Cant take my eyes off my plant. This is my second round of growing and I am the type of person who learns through failure (not gonna upload the pics of the first round plants lol). The buds are thickening up very nicely. Hoping to get between 3-4oz , the strain is high yielding but I have a smaller tent. My auto yielded 2oz with the same space (2 plants in one tent splitting the space), but the buds definitely didn't develop as well as these buds.

Desde mediados la semana pasada, algunas plantas muestran signos de carencia de algún tipo, pero sus hojas en forma de garra me hacen pensar en un bloqueo de algun mineral, con esto decido seguir regando sin ningún tipo de nutrientes hasta que muestren síntomas de necesitar comida , está semana han hecho 30 días de crecimiento les dejo acabar la semana hasta el domingo a 20h de luz

Had major issues with the mildew lost London Mint Cake, Cookies Kush, Bruce Banner and Cheetos… The last standing planta has no problems with the mildew. Malasana Cookies and Gary Payton are finished and now they are drying. I will give an Update when all is dry and smokeable.

Flowering day 63 since time change to 12/12 h. Hey guys :-) The end has come 😍 Over the next 3-7 days the lady is placed in the darkroom for 48 hours before being harvested and hung upside down. The trichomes are checked every day to find the perfect time 👍 Watering was done twice this week with groundwater, each time with 1.2 l. Have fun with the update and stay healthy 🙏🏻💚 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 ‘Powered by GreenHouse Feeding’ Copy the link for 10% off all Nutrients 👇🏼 https://shop.greenhousefeeding.com/affiliate/MadeInGermany_PassionGrower 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : https://www.amsterdamgenetics.com/product/choco-cheesecake/ 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 Use the coupon code: madeingermany for 10% on all Amsterdam Genetics seeds Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with Cal/Mag (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 290 ppm and Ph with Ph- to 5.8 - 6.4 MadeInGermany

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This one was a monster of plant she took the 140x70 cm like a real champ. Sexy frosty dense buds with a beautiful blue/Grey shadow This one can really be the champ of this season 💚

Hello everybody! Here we are a week later and I’m starting to see some nice improvements and developments. This week I fed all plants pretty heavily with Recharge and Dolomite Lime (and a little Cal Mag). The plants seemed to like it, the color is really coming back to a nice shade of green instead of the pale yellow’ish green and I'm starting to see nice bud sites developing! I’m going back to my normal nutrient routine this week and think it should be fairly smooth sailing from here. One negative is I seem to have inherited some bugs from my wife. She asked me to put one of her outdoor plants in the room so it would survive the winter, well it looks like that plant was infested with bugs. The little f’ers had a feast on some of the leaves. My wife gave me the OK to toss the plant, so with the plant removed it should be fairly easy to irradiate any remaining bugs with some sticky paper. I’d like to say thank you to all who answered my question regarding recommend reading on cannabis. I’m selecting the answer for the Grow Bible by Greg Green because I was actually unaware of that one. I’m familiar with the Cervantes and Rosenthal versions but not Greg Greens. I’ll be ordering that book after I receive and finish “True Living Organics” by The Rev (should be here tomorrow). This week I have a new question for my GD friends…. CO2? I have not been using CO2 but EVERY book I read recommends using it, I’m not prepared to go out and buy a CO2 tank, regulator, etc… at this time. Has anyone ever used one of those CO2 bags? Or do you have any DIY CO2 solutions you can recommend? I’m looking forward to your answers on CO2. I’ll leave you this week with another interesting excerpt from “Marijuana Cultivation Reconsidered: The Science and Techniques For Huge Indoor Yields” by Read Spear: “I prefer to use high-pressure sodium lamps. With the exception of LED's, HPS lamps are the most efficient source of light you can buy, both in terms of light output and light spectrum. Having read nearly every book on the subject of growing pot, I feel that their authors tend to overemphasize the importance of light spectrum. You do not need to alternate between metal halides (for growth) and sodiums (for flowering). That is an oversimplification of the plant's light requirements. You may do this if you like--it certainly won't hurt--but I firmly believe that the gains are just not great enough to justify the cost of the extra MH lamp.” -Read Spear

So since I had the mold and bud rot problems I had to divide my schedule of harvest and divide the product as well. - Healthy buds are ones belonging to branches where there are no signs of rot/mold. -Mid-healthy buds are untouched by disease but still belonging to a branch where there was some disease. -Last category are the salvaged ones, where I cut them from bigger buds that had disease or they were in some part affected. These 3 categories each have their own drying space and where harvested in this order to prevent spreading of spores and stuff. For the salvaged buds every time I removed a part with disease I cleaned the scissors with alcohol. I only removed the sun-leaves + penguin leaves and will be doing a dry trim for the sugar leaves later on.

Germinated 10/06 Have not fed since adding the extra gro and micro. I did top the water back up to cover the bottom third of the of net pots. I also topped and stripped the bottom branches.

No han habido muchos cambios en cuanto a la nutricion. Añadimos un poco de Recharge, agua y estare añadiendo un producto para engordar las flores. Los mantengo al tanto, buenos humos!

The "runt" is looking beautiful ant the 2nd plant now looks way over fed..PH has been a roller coaster... i watered until 20ish% runoff (with PH 4.5 tap water) a few times (not sure what else to do) we're going to skip feeding and continue to water this way (with trace nutrients) until she lightens up some.... .hopefully she looks a little better in a few days. (7/21..13th day of flower) 7/23... Plant on the right is still looking WAY overfed....she's been getting water only for a little over a week :/ 7/26 Plant on the right is starting to look much better, lots of new leaf growth, I may skip the 2nd round of shwazzing on that one and just let it do it's thing until harvest without anymore needless stress..

Eccoci di nuovo qui!!! Super eccitato per questa nuova collab con Sweet Seeds, team davvero al top, che mi ha dato l’opportunità di testare questa nuova genetica e di condividere i progressi con tutti voi!!! Come sempre partiamo nei bicchieri per poi travasare.. Questa volta verrà svolto tutto sotto la Lumatek Zeus 465 ProC, mi aspetto molto da questo ciclo!! Settimana incredibile!!! Grazie a tutti per il supporto ❤️🍀🔥

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Day 57 from seed the plant has been recovering very well from supercrop I supercrop two more branches because they were running into the light getting burn not only the leaves but the buds as well therefore no choice more HST but the plant is reacting well to the high training I also put some painters tape around the branches that I supercrop in order to allow them some support and allow some nutrients to continue to flow through the branch this situation is probably my fault because I choose 7 gallons pots I have never used such a big pot and the plans are definitely having lots of stretch room to grow looking forward to see this girl finishing and hoping she will be a monster. I know that most of the growers in this platform and elsewhere do defoliate and trim down all the lower branches of the plant so that the plant can concentrate all its energy into the higher bigger and better buds .and I do not do this because I drive the plants very hard with nutrients and those lower branches with small buds always give me the first sign of anything going wrong with her and that's why I leave them as a buffer zone to protect the bigger buds and that way I can push her as hard as I want. Thank you for reading I will continue to update have a happy grow.

Lst bağları çözdüm scrog ağı montajı tamam bu yaratıkların gelişimi nasıl olacak?

Hey guys she got the chop after 11day flush trich production is amazing got some nice colours coming through smell is a bit earthy skunky kind off she is a nice little bush expecting a few oz at least buds are formed perfect no foxtail at all 1 cola got a bit of mold so far the rest looked ok after thoroughly checking trying to keep temp around 65 and humidity around 60 put a video up for the competition of her and a few pics of another gorilla grown in here because she is beautiful ill upload harvest when dry and tested thanks for reading and following this journey happy growing them biggreens guys

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